Algae in aquarium species photo


Algae in an aquarium, how to get rid of and fight with all their species

know the enemy in the face

The issue of algal flash in an aquarium regularly torments both beginners and pros of the aquarium craft. Why all? Because these unwanted guests can arise, both "in the young" and "in the old" pond.
An experienced aquarist will immediately notice the undesirable algae, and knowing about its name or genus, quickly neutralize it, not allowing the outbreak. But newcomers have to tight! The situation is aggravated by the incredibly diverse abundance of information on algae control. Who says: keep the aquarium in the dark, on the contrary, increase the light day! Some say: you overdose fertilizers in the aquarium, while others, on the contrary, say little macro fertilizer, etc.
Let's see what is wrong in the aquarium! How to deal with it! Break the legends and myths about algae!

What is aquarium algae?

Many beginners call algae aquarium plants and vice versa plants are called algae !!! This is a fundamentally wrong understanding of the essence of plant nature.
Aquarium plants - This is the highest plant world. In the aquarium, these are the same plants as in the field or on the lawn near the house. This is the biological kingdom, one of the main groups of multicellular organisms, including, of course, mosses, ferns, horsetails, moss, etc.
Seaweed - this is the lowest. A heterogeneous ecological group of predominantly phototrophic unicellular, colonial, or multicellular organisms that live, as a rule, in the aquatic environment, in a systematic sense, representing the totality of many divisions. Entering into symbiosis with fungi, these organisms in the course of evolution formed completely new organisms - lichens.
Having distinguished between these two concepts, we have decided who to fight specifically. Our aquarium enemy - algae, the lowest plant world!

Methods of struggle and disposal of algae

At the dawn of the formation of our site was written a simple article: Flying on the walls of the aquarium and the stones: Green scurf in the aquarium, white scum in the aquarium, mucus in the aquarium !!! Time passed, and to my surprise, even such a short little article gained popularity, it has already been viewed by 22 thousand people! Yes and the forumguys often ask for help in dealing with these nasty "raids."
Well, it's probably time to paint everything on the shelves!
So, here are the basic and effective methods of dealing with green, brown, brown, black, blue-green algae patches.
Like plants, there is an insane amount of algae, as well as their species and subspecies. Of course, it is not possible to know all of them, but you need to know the group, the genus of these algae! On this depends the effectiveness of the struggle and the actions that need to be done.
It is in this omission that all the confusion in the advice on the forums lies: remove the light, turn on the light .... Everyone has different algae outbreaks, different aquariums, different lighting, water and hydrobionts.
Below, in this article, the main and most common algae in the aquarium and the specifics of dealing with them will be given.
The root cause of any aquarium trouble is the absence or disturbance of the biobalance in the aquarium, that is, the mutual equilibrium of all aquatic organisms (fish, plants, mollusks, algae, fungi, bacteria, etc.).
You'd be surprised, but in the aquarium always, there are always spores of various algae, as well as fungi, etc.! All of them perform their function, for example, to clean the aquarium from dead organics, to remove poisons (ammonium, nitrite and nitrate) from the aquarium, etc. In other words, the aquarium is not sterile - it is a living organism, from various groups, colonies of living organisms that are visible and not visible to humans.

An algal flash is a visual indication of a violation (absence) of a biobalance in an aquarium. This is the loss of any link in the balance!

Finding out what link fell, you need to return it to its place. What a newbie to do is hard!
Here are the main reasons for the loss of the biobalance link:
- excessive amount of daylight in the aquarium or wrong aquarium lighting mode. Accordingly, it is necessary to reduce or adjust daylight hours. Or in general, if possible, turn off the light for a couple of days, as a preventive measure.
- lack of daylight or use of "wrong" lamps with a "wrong" spectrum. Accordingly, it is necessary to increase the light day or remove the lamps with a "bad" spectrum and you need to buy lamps for the spectrum or purchase lamps for the missing spectrum. Read more Lighting aquarium and the choice of lamps and Lighting aquarium do it yourself.
- the presence in the aquarium of excess dead organic matter and dirt (dead plants, fish, food residues, kakul, etc.). Simply put, the aquarium does not have time to cope with so much "garbage" and the only way out of our beloved, living aquarium, is a call to help algae, who happily gobble up all this byaku.
Accordingly, it is necessary to remove all the "garbage": siphon the bottom of the aquarium, clean the walls, decor and equipment, mechanically try to remove the algae, as well as make more frequent and more complete water changes for fresh, eventually, fill the aquarium coal filter.
- The following reason follows from the above and is a destructive continuation of the "dirt" in the aquarium. All dead organics are decomposed by beneficial bacteria and fungi, and removed from the aquarium. If this dead organic matter a lot and it accumulates, the microorganisms do not have time to process it! In the aquarium, poisons begin to accumulate - decomposition products: ammonia, nitrites and nitrates, which leads not only to the appearance of algae, but generally ruins all life in the aquarium.
In addition to the above measures for thorough cleaning of the aquarium, you need to apply the following aquarium chemistry:

A) Zeolite. Sold in pet stores or other places. For example, a mixture of zeolite and coal is ubiquitous. Fluval Zeo-Carb.
On a note: you need to know that aquarium coal is not effective from poisons and only ion-exchange resin - zeolite removes them. Read more ...
B) Preparations of bio-starters, as well as preparations promoting an increase in the colonies of beneficial bacteria. Simply put, these are drugs that contain the very bacteria that decompose poisons. A lot of such drugs, for example, are popular: Tetra Bactozym, Tetra NitratMinus, Tetra NitrateMinus Pearls, Sera bio Nitrivec and others.
3. A large number of plants in the aquarium. No one has scientifically proved that plants suppress algae, but the fact remains that in an aquarium with live aquarium plants (1/2, 2/3), there are no algal outbreaks, except greenish dots sometimes appear, and then from strong illumination.
Here is an example from my own experience. I had a herbalist for growth (I grew plants for the future of an aquascape), there were many different plants. The time has come, I made my scape, spread out plants and flooded some algae (algae) in it, and this is all because the aquarium is young, the plants have not gotten stronger after transplantation, and their number has decreased. The time passed, the plants grew stronger and took over the lower ones and the thread disappeared.
Therefore, if you have the opportunity to provide plants with proper care: LIGHT, CO2, PLE - surely plant beds!
4. There are useful fish that fight - eat algae and algal plaque:
A) Siamese Algae Eaters - tireless workers of the aquarium, sometimes it seems that the only meaning of their life is the insatiable desire to kiss all the plants, suck all the stones and walk through all the aquarium decorations. They can still be found under the abbreviation SAE, which stands for Siamese Algae Eater and translates as Siamese algae. There are also KAE and IAE - Chinese and Indian algae. Effective from algae "black beard", "filament" and "deer horns", etc.
B) Ototsinklyus - no less effective fish. Due to the structure of its mouth gently and well remove algae from plants, decor and walls. Copes with green, brown (diatoms), etc.
B) Ancistrus- also helpful. But, unlike the aforementioned fish, adult antsistrus individuals are lazy. And they say that in addition to algae, they chew and plants.
D) The whole family is also a good helper in the fight against algae. petsilievyh - guppies, swordtails, mollies, patcilia and others.
D) All possible clams. - apularias, coils, fizy, etc.
5. And finally, the aquarium chemistry will come to the rescue, the overwhelming algae. In pet stores sold a lot of such drugs, as a rule, in their name they contain the word "Algo" (alga), for example, Tetra AlgoStop Depot. Use these drugs should be carefully, wisely and according to the instructions. I recommend Tetra products precisely because they have the mildest effect. With proper applications - taking into account all the circumstances in the aquarium, Tetra preparations do not adversely affect the plants.
So, we have examined the main causes of the appearance of algae in the aquarium, as well as dismantled the main methods of dealing with them. Finally, it should be noted that, as a rule, “algal trouble comes in a complex”, and therefore it is necessary to deal with it in a complex, i.e. not one method, but several at once, if not all at once.
Algae in the aquarium - know the enemy in the face!

Types of aquarium algae with photos

As previously mentioned varieties of algae very much! They number more than thirty thousand species !!! Below are the most common algae, the reasons for the appearance in the aquarium and the individual characteristics of solving problems with them.
But, first classification. Due to the abundance of algal mass, they were simply divided according to the color of the thallus (thallus) into:
- Diatoms - Diatomeae;
- Brown algae - Phaeophceae;
- Green algae - Chlorophceae;
- Yellow-green algae - Xantophceae;
- Red algae - Rhodophceae;
- Golden algae - Chrysophceae;
- Blue-green algae - Cynophceae;

They include the following "popular algal pests":

Brown or diatom algae

(brown coating on the walls, soil, stones of the aquarium)
photo brown, brown algae in the aquarium
These are the simplest and, if I may say so, harmless algae. They are placed at the very top of the list, as they often appear among beginners - in young aquariums. The first reason for their appearance is the lack of lighting, the second is the absence of a biogenic tuned nitrogen cycle in young aquariums.
As soon as a young aquarium tunes in or lighting is added, they will disappear. You can remove them mechanically and with the help of snails.

Red algae or black algae

Vietnamese seaweed or deer horns

photo of aquarium algae flip flops
About this algae, probably, they write on each the forum! Still, the ranks of the unhappy owners of this infection in their aquarium, everything is replenished and replenished.
This alga is very tenacious and difficult to excrete. Its appearance speaks primarily about the high content of dead organic matter in the aquarium, which it feeds on.
The methods of struggle are common: we clean everything carefully, siphonize the soil - we remove organic matter. We put coal and zeolite in the filter, make frequent water changes (up to 50% per week), well, we use algaecide and algae))).

Alga Blackbeard

photo seaweed black beard
Many confuse it with the "Vietnamese", because it is similar and has the same causes of appearance. It usually appears in "young aquariums". Inference methods are the same.

Filamentous algae (popularly, filamentous)

Alga Edogonium
photo of thread in the aquarium
This is the most common type of filamentous algae that attack an aquarium. At first it looks like green down, then like long green strings. When they occur, it is recommended to apply the above described methods of control. As well as in the literature it is noted that this alga appears due to the lack of macro elements. Surprisingly, in particular, phosphates and nitrates (of which everything is derived). There is a positive effect when adding them. In advanced cases, algicidal preparations are used.
Kladofora (popularly known as Kladofora thread)

It has branching and does not have long strings. As a rule, it appears in aquariums with poor filtration, poor water flow and the presence of stagnation zones, where it “blooms”.
It is possible to get rid of it by eliminating negative factors, by mechanical means (by hand) and algicide.
This seaweed is very nasty and not only because it is slimy and green, but also because it grows with a geometric progression. It is difficult to withdraw - neither algaecide, nor SAE will help. It is difficult, but you can defeat it mechanically: by manual selection, by rubbing it with your fingers (it is fragile), by pulling out from the bottom. As an additional measure of struggle helps: killing the light, fish and algae shrimp.

It can also be attributed to filamentous algae, because has a filamentous structure. As a rule, it appears in young aquariums, where the biobalance is not yet set up, which can be identically called the nitrogen cycle. This is not such a terrible seaweed! It actually disappears after the establishment / restoration of the biobalance in the aquarium. Applies to it, all common methods of struggle are effective. Most effective: water change and algaecide.

Ksenokokus - green plaque on the walls of the aquarium

Already with this alga faced all and beginners and pros. It appears from the excess light or the wrong daylight mode. At the same time, plant biomass does not play a role. It appears in aquariums with lush vegetation, and in the aquarium with "three rastyuchkami."
Recommendations for combating xenococcus (the correct name is colekheta) are general: reduce, adjust daylight hours, algaecide, mechanical cleaning, fish and shellfish helpers, frequent water changes.

Blue Green Algae

photo blue-green algae in the aquarium
These are rare guests of our aquariums. But nevertheless they need to know. They are formed on the tips of the plants or the tops of the decor. Unlike other algae, blue-green is a colony of bacteria, and it is very toxic (they release toxins into the water).
Well, since these are bacteria, you can get rid of them with human antibiotics and septic tanks or with antibacterial aquarium preparations. Sulfur Baktopur. If you do not want to poison the aquarium with harsh chemicals and antibiotics, you can locally use hydrogen peroxide in the right doses.
That's all! I wish you success and always stable aquarium!

Algae for the aquarium: types and names

Most novice aquarists for some reason believe that plants for the underwater realm bring only additional worries and troubles to the owners. But this is a serious misconception that we will try to dispel in this article.

We will present you the popular algae for the aquarium. The photo and name of the plant you like will help you make the right choice for your pond. Now there are many very different plants for the underwater kingdom. There are among them those that really care is not easy. But along with them there are plants that do not require special care.

Algae for an aquarium are the simplest plants, although sometimes they belong to the kingdom of protists (Protista). Blue-green algae even belong to the bacteria. They can range in size from single-celled microscopic organisms to 70-meter grass.

These are the most ancient inhabitants of the Earth who carried out the first photosynthesis more than three and a half billion years ago. Algae can breed in all water bodies: with salty, fresh, clean, turbid, fast flowing or stagnant water.

The benefits of aquarium plants

For the life of underwater inhabitants are important algae in the aquarium. Species, which we present below, perform several important functions. They create a special aquarium biosystem, purify water from harmful substances, serve as a natural interior and “maternity home” for fry, fish, snails, shrimps, additional food for many underwater inhabitants, and finally just decorate the house: with them your home water will look natural and aesthetic .

Often experienced fish lovers achieve amazing biological balance with the help of plants in an aquarium. They even eliminate the need for water filtration and mechanical aeration. True, to accomplish this, it is necessary to know algae well for an aquarium. Photos and the name of these plants are often published in special editions for beginners observing the underwater world.

Growing plants

If you are going to get an aquarium, you must create a comfortable environment for its inhabitants. For breeding plants, it is important to choose the right soil, stock up on the necessary fertilizers for feeding and think over good lighting. Let us dwell on each of the listed points.


Algae in an aquarium - species whose names are not well known to everyone - are very diverse. All of them require an individual approach to soil selection: some plants do not need it at all, while others, on the contrary, need a lot of it. Тем не менее существует общее правило: грунт для растений должен быть слоем до пяти сантиметров при средней его зернистости. Такая толщина позволит растениям укорениться.

Посаженое растение вначале следует прижать галькой, привязать леской до укоренения. Often, aquarists make a mistake by tying a lead weight to the roots - this should not be done. Yes, in this case, the plant does not float and the fish will not be able to snatch it. But do not forget that lead is oxidized, does not allow the plant root system to develop.

Fertilizer fertilizer

Algae for an aquarium are living things, so they, like fish, need food. Modern aquarists with this do not know the problems. In almost every pet store you can buy liquid conditioners or pills for plants. For example, Tetra Crypto. The tablets are crushed and brought under the root system on a monthly basis. This tool strengthens and protects planted plants.

The preparation contains a plant hormone that enhances growth, stimulates the development of roots, increases plant resistance to diseases due to the content of macronutrients.

Tetra crypto

This is one of the most popular dressings for aquarium plants. It helps the normal development of the root system. The composition of the tablets includes micronutrients and iron. They do not contain nitrates, phosphates. Means does not cause turbidity of water.

The tablet acts for a long time, promotes the development of the necessary microorganisms, prevents the growth of harmful algae.


Algae in the aquarium, the photos of which you see below, cannot live without light - without it, the process of photosynthesis is impossible. Features of lighting are individual. They depend on how you grow algae in an aquarium. Plant types can be divided into two categories. Among them are very light-requiring and requiring moderate lighting.

Algae in the aquarium: the types, photos and names

All plants can be divided into separate groups:

  • floating on the surface of the water;
  • mounted in the ground.

Often, novice lovers do not know the names of algae for the aquarium, but they notice them everywhere: on gravel and sand, plants and stones, equipment and walls. This is normal because algae are part of the balance of the reservoir, but only if they do not develop excessively.

In a balanced aquarium, there must be clear, well-cleaned, stirred water and perfectly clean glass, although many owners prefer not to clean all the walls: they leave the rear glass covered with fouling. Noticed: algae on the walls of the aquarium or on the stones absorb nitrates and many decay products, thereby reducing the growth of algae on the side and front windows. In addition, some species of fish feed on the back wall, for example, all types of mail catfish.

Some types of algae are especially common and cause a lot of problems for aquarium owners. Here are some of them.

Filamentous green algae

They are in the form of long filaments of green color and grow from the stems and leaves of plants up. This view needs a lot of light. The “strings”, how often these algae are called aquarists, can be disastrous, because they consume a lot of the nutrients that ornamental plants need. You can control their development and growth by cleaning them manually or using fish that feed on algae with pleasure.


They are a thin cobweb that spreads on the leaves of plants. They can reach two centimeters in length. Fibrous algae develops most often in water with an excessive content of nitrates and can cause the death of plants. Algae fish (Siamese algae), as well as snails that feed on this vegetation, will help fight them. Regular and frequent water changes will save your aquarium from these algae.


This type may look like green water to a beginner. But it consists of volvox algae. As a rule, the reason for the appearance of this species becomes excessive feeding of the inhabitants of the aquarium. They can be removed using filtration, UV light, large water changes. In addition, special chemicals can be used.

Green spots

We can not say about this form, representing the harmful algae in the aquarium. Species, photos and names of these plants can be seen in the aquarium literature reference books. Green spots are dark green small algae that form small round spots on the glasses and leaves of plants.

This species develops in water containing insufficient nutrients, as well as its unstable parameters. Normalization of the internal environment of the reservoir, as well as snails and fish, for which algae are a favorite delicacy, will help you to get rid of this species.

Bouquets (bunches)

The name of this species fully corresponds to the form of plants. These are really bunches, up to three centimeters in size. These are very common algae in aquariums, where lighting is excessive, and there is an excessive nutrient content. Bundles are removed by hand or fed to fish.

Blue green algae

This species forms a rather dense layer covering the soil and plants. Blue-green algae in the aquarium develop due to excessive lighting. Promotes their appearance and high levels of phosphates and nitrates. Blue algae in the aquarium are able to excrete substances harmful to fish. Even algae often refuse to eat them because of bad taste. Ampoulaia will be able to slow down their growth, but one should not hope for them. In this case, you need serious treatment.

It is necessary to completely turn off the lighting and darken the aquarium for a week, combining this with massive water changes.

Black algae: spots

And now tell you what to do if you find black algae in the aquarium, and how to deal with them. This species forms small black spots on plants. Unfortunately, the reason for their appearance has not yet been established precisely, but excess light and nitrates may contribute to the further spread of stains.

To cope with this species is not easy, experts recommend a radical way to deal with it - the complete removal of diseased leaves.

Black beard

These algae indicate that the amount of organic waste in the aquarium has increased dramatically, which serve as food for the beard. These algae are often located on the plants and the walls of the aquarium. It is a thick, disgusting-looking black carpet. How to deal with it?

The first step is to reduce the level of organic matter. After cleaning the soil, changing the water and filtering it, the growth of the black beard slows down. In addition, this species settles in places with a strong flow: on the surface of filters, on their tubes. The current provides the beard with abundant nutrition, organic debris is deposited on its surface. Therefore, we recommend to reduce aeration in the aquarium. To reduce the nutrients in the water, in addition to cleaning, should be planted fast-growing plant species: nayas, elodeyu.

Diatoms (brown algae)

And these algae, in contrast to the previously presented ones, appear in poorly lit aquariums, with a high content of phosphates and nitrates, in which the pH is above 7. Brown algae create an unpleasant brown layer on stones, glasses, plants, which are removed by snails and fish. Diatoms die after the water condition improves and light intensity increases.

Beautiful algae

We presented to you common, but undesirable algae in the aquarium. They give the owners a lot of trouble. We hope that species, names and photos of these plants will help you to start a fight with them in a timely manner. And now we want to introduce you to very spectacular plants that, undoubtedly, will decorate your aquarium.

Giant valisneria

This is the largest species of the genus Vallisnerium. It is suitable for large aquariums with a depth of at least fifty centimeters. It is better to plant at the back wall. The leaves have a rich dark green color. For active development requires nourishing soil and bright lighting. So that the plant does not completely cover the surface of the water, it must be periodically thinned out. Comfortable temperature - +25 ° C.

Tiger Wallisneria Spiral

This type of vallisnerium is selective. It grows and develops very quickly, the leaves are bright green, saturated color. The plant is hardy and unpretentious in the care. On the leaves there are strips that resemble tiger pattern. This species propagates in a vegetative way, by dividing shoots, called arrows. These algae can be kept at a water temperature of up to +25 ° C, with an acidity of 6.0 pH.


This species belongs to the floating algae for the aquarium, which develop well in moderately warm water. Under natural conditions found in many countries around the world. Bright green openwork weave creates a beautiful cover that resembles islets. These algae have no stems, leaves, or root system.

Riccia is a thallus of flat small plates intertwined with each other. Riccia is often used as a spawning substrate for breeding fish, it is excellent for sheltering fry. With increased water hardness, the alga develops slowly. The recommended temperature is + 22 ° C.

Mugweed immersed

Perennial algae floating on the surface of the water, because it does not have a root system. When the water temperature drops, it sinks to the depth of the aquarium and slows growth. The stems of the plant are long, the leaves are needle-like and very small. This species is ideal for aquariums, as it is an ideal hiding place for fry. In the leaves of this seaweed, the young will not find large fish, on the leaves there are microorganisms that will become food for the fry.

Rogovists can be used as a spawning substrate. Fishes will lay eggs on it, which will firmly stick to needle-like leaves. It is better to immerse a hornberry in a moderately warm or cold aquarium, with normal water hardness and neutral pH. This view requires good lighting, so it is allowed daylight more than twelve hours a day.

Kladofora spherical

This seaweed belongs to the cladoforic family. Ornamental plant for freshwater aquariums. Its structure is a colony of green filamentous algae, intertwining and forming a dense ball. Homeland of this plant - Japan. Under natural conditions it grows to ten centimeters, in an aquarium it does not exceed six centimeters in length.

In the aquarium the balls are placed on the bottom, and they themselves are attached to the substrate. In the morning, Kladofora emits oxygen. Air bubbles appear inside the ball, it becomes light, almost weightless, and floats to the surface. In the evening, the oxygen becomes much less, and the ball again sinks to the very bottom.

Marimo can only be kept in cool water at a temperature not exceeding +20 ° C. At higher temperatures, the shape of the tuber is deformed, the ball breaks into small fragments. Lighting for this species is allowed moderate, daylight - at least ten hours.



Not all green algae in an aquarium are parasites: some of them belong to decorative species (for example, sparkle). The reasons for the appearance of malicious green Aquarius becomes excessive lighting and a sufficient amount of nutrients in the water. They harm higher plants because they shade them and absorb nitrates and phosphates intended for them. In addition, this species changes the gas balance of water, which leads to a violation of biological equilibrium. In order to overcome this lower vegetation, it is necessary to resort to the following methods:

1. Lighting. It is necessary to change the light mode. It is necessary to reduce the intensity and duration of both natural and artificial lighting.

2. Water change. In order to remedy the situation, it is necessary to regularly change the water, as well as clean the soil. It should be done daily, otherwise the situation will only get worse, since clean water can only increase the reproduction of green algae. This method is best used in the case when the minimum number of fish in the aquarium.

3. Ozonation of water. It is necessary to create a strong current of water using a centrifugal pump, and apply a strong oxidizing agent, namely ozone. With the systematic use of ozone will give good results: soon the flowering of water will stop, and the biological balance will return to normal.


Seaweed - this is not all that grows in water. So called lower, primitive photosynthetic organisms, often consisting of a single cell or several cells collected in colonies or filaments. They live everywhere in the aquatic environment. They are distinguished from higher plants by the absence of developed organs: stems, leaves, flowers, and also the fact that throughout their history they lived exclusively in water, while the plants were formed on land, and only after that some of them returned to the water .

Why do algae sometimes capture an aquarium?

The laws of nature are such that living organisms settle everywhere where suitable conditions exist for them. The main thing you need to live algae:

  • water;
  • shine;
  • nutrition (macronutrients).

Obviously, all this is in any aquarium.

Algae compete with flowering plants for light and macronutrients. Since the latter are more complex and highly organized, in favorable conditions they triumph in this competitive struggle, restraining the growth of their more primitive microscopic ancestors, taking away their nourishment.

However, they are older, smarter, more hardy, patient and less demanding. These, of course, are not properties of their character, but features of biology. Algae can form various types of spores and other structures that can survive adverse times, they need to illuminate a different spectrum, they have other, faster ways of reproduction. And if the conditions in the aquarium are not ideal for higher flora, there will certainly be purple, diatoms or cyanobacteria, which will not delay to take advantage of this.

There are several sections of algae with different colors depending on the pigments they contain. Next, we describe how the representatives of different departments in the aquarium look and what conditions cause outbursts of their numbers.

Blue-green (cyanobacteria)

Their cells do not have nuclei, so these organisms in the row of algae stand apart. In fact, they are bacteria that have acquired the ability to photosynthesis (in the course of it, sugar is formed from the energy of light from water and carbon dioxide in living cells). Despite their low position on the evolutionary ladder, these creatures are extremely tenacious and plastic, and the damage they can do to an aquarium is difficult to overestimate.

Cyanobacteria form mucous membranes covered with large gas bubbles of a dark green or bluish film on the walls of the aquarium, soil, plant leaves, decorations. All this beauty (and in this sight there really is something fascinating, alien) delays the artificial reservoir at an incredible speed, emitting a noticeable stench. The outbreak of the number of these organisms can greatly harm plants and fish even in natural conditions (cyanobacteria are the main cause of water bloom in the summer heat), and in an aquarium it is just a disaster that needs to be urgently addressed, and to save fish from death.

The reason for the uncontrolled reproduction of blue-green is a general failure of the ecological equilibrium, which results from a high concentration of organic matter in water, as well as nitrogen and phosphorus compounds due to systematic overfeeding of fish, irregular harvesting or death and decomposition of some of the fairly large inhabitants of the aquarium.

Often the situation is aggravated by an insufficient amount of oxygen in water, its alkaline reaction and high temperature.

Blue-green (cyanobacteria) photo IN AQUARIUM

Red algae (Rhodophyta) - bushy multicellular aquatic plants of dark gray, dark purple, olive or reddish. Otherwise they are also called crimson, they grow mainly in the seas, but about 50 species are found in fresh water. Compsopogon, which looks like dark gray bushes up to 5 cm in size, has become the worst enemy of aquarists. They cling tenaciously to glass, snags and leaves. Rapidly multiplying, kompsopogon spoils the appearance of plants. Among aquarists, the plant has received the apt nickname "black beard". Red algae feel good in water with high temporal rigidity, as they are able to extract carbonic acid from bicarbonates.


Diatoms (brown) algae in the aquarium

Diatoms are unicellular organisms that have a silicon shell in the form of a box, many of which are capable of movement. The significance of diatoms in natural marine ecosystems is simply colossal, since they constitute a significant proportion of plankton and form a huge part of the organic matter of the earth (about a quarter), and their shells after dying are the basis of sedimentary rocks.

Но в искусственных водоёмах они, как и их собратья из других отделов низших растений - нежеланные гости. Коричневатые или бурые водоросли в аквариуме, образующие склизкий налёт, особенно в плохо освещённых его местах, часто около дна - это, как правило, и есть диатомеи. (Под словом бурые - мы имеем в виду исключительно цвет, а не систематическую принадлежность, так как собственно Бурые водоросли представляют собой обособленный отдел морских высокоразвитых организмов с крупными телами-слоевищами).

Развитие некоторого количества диатомовых почти всегда происходит в первые недели после запуска нового аквариума. В давно действующих аквариумах диатомеи появляются в условиях недостаточного - слабого и кратковременного - освещения или света неправильного спектра, без синего и красного максимума.

Their reproduction contributes to a pH above 7.5, high water hardness and a high concentration of nitrogen compounds. An outbreak of diatoms can cause an excess of sodium in water, which occurs, for example, after treating fish in a common aquarium by adding salt.

Diatoms (brown) algae in the aquarium PHOTO

Black beard

This type of algae (although several species are meant by this name) is one of the most disliked aquarists because it is very difficult to fight. At first, these algae cover the edges of slow-growing plants, like Anubias, or grow in small bunches. Then they cover all the plants in the aquarium, giving it an ugly look. For fish they are not dangerous.

Mechanically remove these algae is almost impossible. Blackout or chemistry with them, in principle, can be fought, but then they will grow back. Some fish (siamese algae eater, for example) allegedly eat it, but on the condition that they are no longer fed.

black beard photo

Other algae species (filamentous, etc.)

These algae are of many species (hair algae, thread algae - filamentous algae, etc.). Hair algae, bright green color, grows on bunches of a ground, stones, etc. Easily removed mechanically or eaten by algae fish. Thread algae, dark in color, grows in individual long threads. It is easily removed mechanically and usually serves as an indicator of excess iron in water (0.1-0.2 mg / l).

Algae growing on small islands on glass are considered normal for a plant aquarium and are easily controlled by scraping (be careful if you have a Plexiglas aquarium) using a razor or a special scraper. Usually this should be done on the front glass. Fish, such as antsistrusy, etc., will help keep the glass clean.

filamentous algae photo

What are the chemical means of struggle and how are they bad

There are several chemical agents for algae control. Most of them are adapted from fish farming, where you have to struggle with overgrowing ponds. An example is simazine, which is available under various brands for aquariums.

Unfortunately, these drugs act on different algae in different ways and are not always effective. In addition, these drugs have a negative effect on plants, causing the death of some plants. Such as kabomba or vallinsneria, in the case of using simazin, which affects the process of photosynthesis.

The main disadvantage of these drugs is that they do not eliminate the causes of the appearance of algae (excess nutrients for algae in the water) and, accordingly, they will appear again from the spores. The use of these preparations can be recommended, as the last available remedy, in cases when it is necessary to quickly get rid of the algae and then continue the fight in a biological way, as described below.

Other ways are disinfecting plants in bleach. Some use hydrogen peroxide to control certain types of algae.

Light Adjustment

It is necessary to move the light parameters in the direction uncomfortable for algae and convenient for plants. In the case of purple and diatoms, the strength and duration of the illumination should be increased by more careful selection of lamps or installation of additional ones. Lamp maxima should be in the blue and red regions of the spectrum. In the case of strong development of chlorophyte fouling, the light intensity and the duration of the light period, on the contrary, decrease.

When water blooms or flashes of cyanobacteria, the lamps turn off completely for several days, sometimes the aquarium is additionally covered with a cloth or paper so that even scattered sunlight and indoor light cannot reach it. Higher plants will survive this (except for the most tender ones, which it is better to remove to another container so far), and the algae will die.


To inhibit the growth of the lower algal flora in the aquarium, you need to observe the balance of nutrients. There should be as little dissolved organics in water as possible, and macroelements (nitrogen and phosphorus compounds) should be sufficient, but not excessive. This requires regular cleaning of the aquarium, siphon of the bottom, water changes by a quarter or third per week, depending on the density of the aquarium population.

The lack of nutrients in the aquarium is less common than their excess, and is usually observed in herbalists with a very high planting density and a small animal population. In such situations, the issue is solved by fertilizer, while they must be placed in the ground, directly to the roots of plants. Accurately used and currently available aquarium tests are used to accurately measure the concentration of various compounds in water.

Carbon dioxide

The introduction of CO2 into an aquarium with the help of various devices provides the plants with a source of carbon and, in the presence of good lighting, can significantly change the balance of forces in their favor. In addition, carbon dioxide acidifies water, which also usually adversely affects the lower flora and beneficially - on the higher.

In addition to these basic measures aimed at improving the conditions for plant growth and normalizing the overall situation in the aquarium, for the fight against algae are used:

  • mechanical removal from surfaces using a scraper or toothbrush;
  • settling algae fish in an aquarium (ototsinklyuy are effective against diatoms, CAE against purple bug and filamentous chlorophyte, labo and hirinoheylus - against scale greens) or, in the case of water blooming, branchy daphnids;
  • in rare cases (for example, an outbreak of cyanobacteria or blooming of water) the use of chemical methods of control - antibiotics and algaecides, as well as an ultraviolet sterilizer is justified.

It must be said that the mass development of cyanobacteria is the reason for taking emergency measures: in addition to the already mentioned complete darkening and use of the antibiotic and sterilizer, it is necessary to deprive algae of nutrients as much as possible. To do this, stop feeding the fish in the aquarium (it is generally better to remove the fish for a while), set the filter power to a minimum, at the same time turning on aeration, do not change the water. Already after the death of most of the blue-greens, general cleaning of the aquarium with a deep siphon of the soil and the replacement of most of the water is carried out.

But such measures to destroy algae give only a temporary effect, which quickly passes without normalizing the overall balance of the aquarium. Therefore, with all due respect to the ancient origin and the enormous ecological role of algae, let us try to create in our aquarium such conditions under which not they, but those for whom we start our indoor ponds — higher plants and fish — will feel comfortable.

Filamentous algae in an aquarium how to fight-photo description video.

Causes of filamentous algae in the aquarium

Filamentous algae multiply rapidly enough in the aquarium and begin to occupy almost the entire area under the following conditions:

• Bright light. Thread often appears in those aquariums that are exposed to direct sunlight during the day or artificial lighting is used for more than 8 hours per day.

• Insufficient oxygen supply.

• A small number of aquarium plants. The surplus of trace elements coming with fertilizer, with a small number of plants, has a positive effect on the rapid growth of the yarn.

• Irregular replacement of water in the aquarium and its poor cleaning leads to the accumulation of nitrates, which are especially needed for the growth of nitrate.

Often the filament appears at the very beginning of breeding aquarium fish and this is due to the fact that higher plants have not yet had time to settle down, which means there is an excess of trace elements necessary for the growth of protozoa. Sometimes filamentous algae can be brought into the house and together with the plants acquired in pet stores.

Methods of struggle

Filamentous algae will surely appear in the pond if there is an excess content of water-soluble nitrogen and phosphorus compounds. Therefore, first of all you need to pay attention to the operation of the filter and lighting. The blue light that favors the growth of the thread should be eliminated and replaced with a soft one.

The accumulation of ammonia compounds occurs both when the filter is clogged and when there are too many fish with an insufficient number of plants. Floating plants and such that grow rapidly (hygrophilic, vallisneria) inhibit filamentous algae, taking away their food. Of great importance is the concentration of iron in the aquarium. It should not exceed the permissible dose of 0.2 mg / l.

Removing the algae from the aquarium with your hands, for example when settling in Spirogira, is almost the only method of control. It is very important to clean the plants from the floss and wash them, and take CO2 to the aquarium only during the daytime. For all cleaning activities, many recommend to darken the aquarium for three days.

In some cases, the use of algaecides, such as, for example, Sidex, containing glutaraldehyde, is very effective. Hydrogen peroxide in an amount of from 6 to 10 mg / l and the filament are also incompatible.

Do not neglect the biological methods of destruction of algae parasites. Who eats yarn, so it is catfish, gastromysones, viviparous small fish, pesilias and mollies, as well as karzuby, jordanelles, Siamese epalceorinhoses.

Where do filamentous algae grow

Grows very well in water with increased hardness. The well-known famous blooming of water in swamps and artificial reservoirs is due to filamentous algae. Unlike other aquatic plants, they have a specific sugary smell and a salty taste. I think that a normal person will not taste the swamp mud. We believe experts that the taste of Tina is sharp and astringent. Filamentous algae live in all water bodies where there is no strong current. The chemical composition of scientists is not fully understood.

What is dangerous filamentous algae

Filamentous algae are different clusters of fairly long or short filaments. Separate beams can be formed from them, fine algae are perfectly attached to the bark, entwining higher aquarium plants, filter tubes and other equipment. The color of these algae is most often green, but protozoa can also occur with a brown, black, gray and even reddish color. A small amount of filamentous algae is considered a normal phenomenon, and it indicates that it is more likely that breeding conditions in the aquarium are suitable for other plants.

But a huge number of filamentous growths can bring a lot of problems, and, above all, they include: Isolation of toxic substances by the remains of algae, which are detrimental to the inhabitants of the aquarium. The natural death of a large number of filamentous algae leads to a continuous process of their decomposition, as a result of which toxins are released. Algae strands entangle the plants growing in the aquarium and thus interfere with their growth and development.

The algae retain the remnants of food and other organic matter, and this leads to rapid contamination of all the water in the aquarium. In bundles of filamentous algae, small fish and fry may become entangled. In connection with these problems, it is always necessary to fight fast-growing filamentous algae in an aquarium, and both the simplest methods and certain professional techniques can help.

External signs of filamentous algae

"The enemy must be known in person" - this also applies to algae. The fact is that under this name many species are collected, which can often be distinguished only under a microscope. And to deal with them to be different methods.

Here are the main signs by which it is possible to determine with confidence that these are really green filamentous algae.

  • Appearance: thin green threads.
  • Texture: soft, slimy to the touch. When removed from the water, they immediately lose their shape and sag.

The filament is often referred to as a kladofora, but this is a misconception. The cladophora has a hard, elastic texture that practically does not lose shape in the air.

Green filamentous algae feed and grow due to substances dissolved in water and the process of photosynthesis occurring in the light.

Prevention Overview

An “algal disaster” will not come in an aquarium in which the correct balance of life is respected. The appearance of green filamentous algae is, above all, an alarm for the aquarist, indicating the beginning of the inhibition of plants due to an excess of some substances and a shortage of others. To avoid this, follow the simple recommendations.

  • Regular cleaning and changing the water in the aquarium. If these conditions are not met, a lot of decomposition products, nitrates causing rotting, water damage, and algae accumulate in your indoor pond.
  • Harmonious lighting. Excessive light provokes excessive algae activity. For a good control of this factor, it is necessary, first of all, to establish an aquarium correctly, where direct sunlight will not fall on it. The length of daylight, sufficient for plants and fish - 10-12 hours.
  • A sufficient amount of aquarium plants. Algae often begin to actively proliferate where there are few or no plants, in an aquarium with cichlids, for example. These fish are actively digging the ground, and aquarists often decorate their homes only with artificial decorations. Meanwhile, plants are necessary for the harmonious life of an artificial reservoir, otherwise their place in the bio-system will be occupied by uninvited aliens.
  • Good aeration. A sufficient supply of oxygen is necessary for everyone living in the aquarium. If the plants themselves feel good (and they need oxygen), then they will be able to inhibit the growth of algae.

It is important to remember that algae are equal participants in biological processes taking place in your aquarium. It is not their presence at all that is harmful, but their active growth, an excess of algae. In a well-balanced aquarium invasion of algae will not happen.

Many experienced aquarists do not protest at all against the visible presence of algae, specifically leaving them in inconspicuous places. In small quantities, they benefit by absorbing some excess nutrients and rotting products.

An important principle of aquarium maintenance is regularity and moderation. Where the fish are fed, not overfeeding and the volume of water is sufficient for them, the plants live and thrive, the dirt is constantly removed, and the water is refreshed and aerated - in a harmonious, well-kept aquarium there is no “environmental catastrophe”.






The trouble of the aquarium - the appearance of filamentous algae

Filamentous algae is a true aquarist nightmare. Barely appeared in the aquarium, these thin green strands, like hair, braiding plants and stones, begin to grow rapidly. In a matter of days, they can flood the entire room reservoir, and it is very difficult to get rid of them.

Growing, the algae emit an excess amount of waste into the water, entangle plants, interfering with their growth. The algae stuck to the remnants of food, fish fry may get confused. All this leads to active processes of decay in the aquarium, and if the process is started and nothing is done with it, even lead to the death of the bio-system.

Algae and plants are natural competitors

First of all, you need to understand that algae and aquatic plants are completely different things. Plants are higher, complexly organized beings, they have different departments in their structure: root system, stem, leaves, shoots. Each organ consists of its own type of cells. Algae, lower, protozoa, are much more primitive in structure - they have no division into organs, and they consist of only one kind of cells. But in these cells complex biochemical processes take place.

Algae are not some kind of harmful parasites, they are a normal member of the aquarium community. To a greater or lesser extent, they are present in every aquarium. Even the sterilization of all possible does not guarantee that you can get rid of algae. They will get there on the leaves of plants, or simply with tap water, which in the summer may contain spores of simple algae.

Aquarium is a biosystem model, and algae also occupy a niche in it. They are part of natural balance.

Green filamentous alga, to a certain extent, is a competitor of plants. If conditions for plants are optimal, they eat well and grow, there is no excess of nutrients and light, then they suppress the algae. If these conditions are violated in some way - the algae “raise their heads”. The appearance of an undesirable resident is an alarming signal that the balance in the aquarium is disturbed, and only by restoring it can you reduce the growth of algae and get rid of them, at least from their excessive presence.

External signs of filamentous algae

"Врага надо знать в лицо" - это относится и к водорослям. Дело в том, что под этим названием собрано множество видов, которые, зачастую, можно отличить только под микроскопом. А бороться с ними предстоит разными методами.

Вот основные признаки, по которым можно с уверенностью определить, что это действительно зеленые нитчатые водоросли.

  • Внешний вид: тонкие зеленые нити.
  • Текстура: мягкие, склизкие на ощупь. При извлечении из воды сразу теряют форму и обвисают.

К нитчатым часто причисляют кладофору, но это ошибочное мнение. У кладофоры жесткая, упругая текстура, которая практически не теряет форму на воздухе.

Зеленые нитчатые водоросли питаются и растут за счет веществ, растворенных в воде, и процесса фотосинтеза, происходящего на свету.

Виды нитчатых водорослей и методы борьбы с ними

Different types of green filamentous algae have different “preferences” in nutrition and living conditions. To know how to deal with them, you need to be able to distinguish between them.

In the aquarium, there are two varieties of this family: long green threads, freely floating in the water, and shorter, accumulating on the surface of the glass, shoots and planes of plants.

Spirogyra (Spirogura)

Thin, often very long bright green "strands" that can stick together in whole nests. Formed in the vicinity of plants, especially young, which are actively growing.

The difficulty in dealing with spirogyra is that it prefers the same conditions that are good for plants: an adequate amount of nutrients and good light. But a burst of algae growth is usually caused by an overabundance of these factors, even a small one (remember that in optimal conditions, where there is enough, but nothing is in abundance, the plants will suppress the alga, taking nutrients from it).

The rapid growth of spirogyra occurs in well-established aquariums that are not very well cleaned. In this case, the algal surge can be stimulated by some insignificant, at first glance, event: a dead fish that was not seen in time, for example.

Spirogyra threads are very soft, easily rubbed with fingers. They simply remove mechanically - winding green strands on a rough stick made of wood, a toothbrush, and the remains settled on the bottom - siphon. First of all, it is necessary to carry out exactly mechanical cleaning, removing as much algae as possible. Then exclude the factors of its active growth: reduce the light (it is better to darken the aquarium completely for 2-3 days, it will not do any harm to the fish and plants, but for algae it will be a serious blow), slightly increase the water temperature. Replace water more often to reduce the concentration of macro-elements in it. The introduction of the drug bicillin-5 into the aquarium also helps.

There are also natural enemies of this type of algae. She is well eaten by barbs, specials, guppies and other viviparous, shrimps.

Thread (Green Hair Algae, Hair / Thread Algae, Fuzz Algae)

The name brings together a huge number of very similar species. Long strands of bright or dark green, grayish or blackish. They grow in long bunches attached to old plants, stones, bark, filters, on the most lighted places.

With the active growth of algae, after mechanical cleaning, you should pay attention to the composition of water: to establish an even supply of carbon dioxide (CO2 fluctuations accelerate the growth of yarn), to check the concentration of nutrients, the level of nitrates. The reason for the growth spurt can be water pollution with nitrates, ammonium - in this case it is necessary to increase the substitution. It may also be the fault of the deficiency of NO3 and PO4 - plant growth in such conditions is inhibited, and the algae actively come to the fore.

If an additional CO2 supply does not solve the problem - increase the concentration of NO3 and PO4. If this does not help, the excess of macronutrients, nitrates and phosphates is to blame, which should be constantly reduced by changing water, cleaning the aquarium.

Natural enemies of nitrile are viviparous fish, shrimps, barbs, cochlea snails.


Short bright green filamentous algae, appearing in the form of a gun on the leaves and stalks of plants. The first they occupy plants with long stems.

Oedogonium - the first alarming signal about the lack of food in the aquarium, the poverty of the soil substrate. Under normal conditions, this type of algae is easily replaced by strong plants, but with a lack of nutrition, a burst of growth of the “green gun” is possible.

The main mistake that an aquarist can make when he starts to deal with this type of algae is to encourage water changes without introducing additional nutrition for the plants. To eliminate them, you need to check and, with a deficiency, increase the supply of carbon dioxide, feed the plants with macro-elements.

"Green Fluff" will be happy to eat shrimps, mollies, barbs - they will help fight the scourge, but they will not solve the problem completely.

Chlamydomonas and Chlorella. (Green water, Algae bloom, Green tinted water, Euglaena)

"Water blooms" is called the process of rapid growth of these algae. In summer, this happens in all freshwater bodies: the water becomes muddy, green, and thin green threads float in it. The reason: the simplest unicellular algae, actively breeding and freely floating in the water.

And if for natural reservoirs it is a part of the natural life process, then for an aquarium it is a real disaster. Most of all these algae harm the plants, shading them and taking food.

Strictly speaking, unicellular algae are not filamentous - they are even more primitive in structure. However, in aquarium terminology, these species are often combined. The fact is that in the mass single-celled cells can be combined into groups and threads, their texture, growth conditions, damage to the aquarium and methods of control are very similar to filamentous ones.

Flowering water - a sign of over-light and pollution of the aquarium. To cope with this process, it is necessary to shade the aquarium for several days, adjusting at the same time a powerful and smooth operation of the compressor. But even if the algae disappeared from these measures, a water change can cause a new outbreak, and the procedure has to be repeated. Therefore, the only way would be to use a diatom filter or a UV sterilizer.

Chemical method of dealing with unicellulars - bitsillin-5, penicillin. Well helps ozonation of water.

You can get rid of flowering in a natural way - Daphnia crustaceans feed on algae and clean the water for several days. The only problem with this method - from the aquarium will need to remove the fish that Daphnia happy to eat.

Prevention Overview

An “algal disaster” will not come in an aquarium in which the correct balance of life is respected. The appearance of green filamentous algae is, above all, an alarm for the aquarist, indicating the beginning of the inhibition of plants due to an excess of some substances and a shortage of others. To avoid this, follow the simple recommendations.

  • Regular cleaning and changing the water in the aquarium. If these conditions are not met, a lot of decomposition products, nitrates causing rotting, water damage, and algae accumulate in your indoor pond.
  • Harmonious lighting. Excessive light provokes excessive algae activity. For a good control of this factor, it is necessary, first of all, to establish an aquarium correctly, where direct sunlight will not fall on it. The length of daylight, sufficient for plants and fish - 10-12 hours.
  • A sufficient amount of aquarium plants. Algae often begin to actively proliferate where there are few or no plants, in an aquarium with cichlids, for example. These fish are actively digging the ground, and aquarists often decorate their homes only with artificial decorations. Meanwhile, plants are necessary for the harmonious life of an artificial reservoir, otherwise their place in the bio-system will be occupied by uninvited aliens.
  • Good aeration. A sufficient supply of oxygen is necessary for everyone living in the aquarium. If the plants themselves feel good (and they need oxygen), then they will be able to inhibit the growth of algae.

It is important to remember that algae are equal participants in biological processes taking place in your aquarium. It is not their presence at all that is harmful, but their active growth, an excess of algae. In a well-balanced aquarium invasion of algae will not happen.

Many experienced aquarists do not protest at all against the visible presence of algae, specifically leaving them in inconspicuous places. In small quantities, they benefit by absorbing some excess nutrients and rotting products.

An important principle of aquarium maintenance is regularity and moderation. Where the fish are fed, not overfeeding and the volume of water is sufficient for them, the plants live and thrive, the dirt is constantly removed, and the water is refreshed and aerated - in a harmonious, well-kept aquarium there is no “environmental catastrophe”.

Algae Siamese: content, compatibility, breeding, photo-video review

Siamese seaweed

Kingdom: Animals Animalia
Type of:
Chord chordata
: Bone fish Actinopterygii
Cypriniformes Carps
Cyprinidae carp


C. oblongus
Binary name:
Crossocheilus oblongus (Huhl & van Hasselt, 1823)

Siamese seaweed, representative of the species of freshwater fish of the carp family, Cyprinidae. This is a tropical bottom fish settled in southeastern Asia, which includes the Chao Phraya and Mekong basins, as well as the Malay Peninsula (Malay Peninsula). Their natural habitat is streams and rivers, as well as flooded forests during the rainy season. Siamese Algae Eaters should not be confused with the Flying Foxes Flying fox (Epalzeorhynchos kalopterus) or False Siamese False siamensis (Garra cambodgiensis). In true Siamese, a black stripe runs all over the body, including the tail fin, and in the false siamese it ends at the tail. Lzhelisichki less industrious!

Comfortable water temperature: representatives of this species prefer a water temperature in the range of 24 - 26 ° C.

"Acidity" Ph: in the range of 6.5 - 8.0.

Stiffness dH: in the range of 5 - 20.

Aggressiveness: aggression can manifest itself to congeners, to the rest of the fish are not aggressive.

The complexity of the content: easy.

Feeding and diet of Siamese algae: seaweed: "black beard", red, filamentous, "Vietnamese", special food, live, dry and frozen food.

Feeding any aquarium fish should be correct: balanced, varied. This fundamental rule is the key to successful keeping of any fish, be it guppies or astronotuses. Article "How and how much to feed aquarium fish" talks in detail about this, it outlines the basic principles of the diet and feeding regime of fish.

In this article, we note the most important thing - feeding fish should not be monotonous; both dry and live food should be included in the diet. In addition, you need to take into account the gastronomic preferences of a particular fish and, depending on this, include in its diet ration either with the highest protein content or vice versa with vegetable ingredients.

Popular and popular feed for fish, of course, are dry food. For example, hourly and everywhere can be found on the aquarium shelves of food company "Tetra" - the leader of the Russian market, in fact, the range of feeds of this company is striking. In the "gastronomic arsenal" of Tetra are included as individual feeds for a certain type of fish: for goldfish, for cichlids, for loricarids, guppies, labyrinths, arovan, discus, etc. Also, Tetra has developed specialized foods, for example, for enhancing color, fortified or for feeding fry. Detailed information on all Tetra feeds, you can find on the official website of the company - here.

It should be noted that when buying any dry food, you should pay attention to the date of its production and shelf life, try not to buy food by weight, and also keep the food in a closed state - this will help avoid the development of pathogenic flora in it.

Gender differences: algae eating is difficult to distinguish by sex - sexual dimorphism is weakly expressed. Adult females have a more complete (rounded) shape.

Size in nature: from 10 to 14 cm. In the aquarium 7 - 8 cm.

Features of the Siamese Seaweed

Siamese Algae Eaters have a black horizontal strip that extends from the gills to the tail, inclusive. Present, Crossocheilus siamensis has no maxillary antennae, but has a specific shape of the upper lip and is rarely marketed.

Usually, in pet stores, under the guise of Siamese algae, sell fish that eat red algae - Crossocheilus langei. They have a bright brown elongated body with a slightly flat stomach. In addition, they have a noticeable black-brown horizontal strip extending from nose to tail. These fish can grow to a length of 16 cm. Also, these fish have a small maxillary antennae and an arched upper lip.

Another type of algae, which is traded under the guise of algae, is Crossocheilus atrilimes - who likes to eat red algae and Javanese moss.

The following information is related to algae-eating Crossocheilus langei. These hardy fish are often found in the trade, they are popular and effective against algae in the aquarium. These are very active and fast-swimming fish that move in flocks when kept in groups, but some individuals may express aggression towards their own kind and related fish. In general, these eaters of red algae can be kept in a common aquarium and are reportedly less aggressive than similar fish, such as the Chinese algae eater or the red-tailed black shark.

Red algae eaters effectively control the development of algae in an aquarium, many aquarists like to breed them in aquariums with dense vegetation and strong lighting - which contributes to the growth of algae. Unlike other aquarium algae, red algae eaters are valued for their ability to eat red algae.

This type of fish is good jumping, so the aquarium should always be covered with a lid.

Siamese Algae Eaters contain both a flock and one by one. Can live about 10 years. thanks
The author of the article is Argenty (Alexander Isakov),
for the provided material and cooperation!

Video about Siamese algae

Photo selection of algae Siamese

Wallisneria maintenance and care in the aquarium, species, breeding, photo-video review


maintenance and care, species, reproduction, photo-video review

Wallisneria is one of the most unpretentious aquarium plants. If you have never had an aquarium, you do not have experience in growing aquarium plants, start with Vallisneria. She does not need any special care. There are no stringent requirements for lighting, water or soil parameters. Vallisneria goes well with other aquarium plants, grows quickly and looks good on the side and background of the aquarium.

Family: Water colors (Hydrocharitaceae)

Types of Vallisneria

Spiral, American Vallisneria, Dwarf Vallisneria, Vallisneria twirled, Vallisneria floating, Vallisneria twist-leaf “mini-twister”, etc. (V. alternifolia, V. asiatica, V. biwaensis, V. caulescens, V. aethiopica, V. before. gracilis, V. gigantea, V. jaquinii, V. mmor, V. nana, V. linnei, V. natans, V. portugalensis, V. neotropicalis, V. spinulosa, V. pusilla, V. tortifolia, V. triptera , V. tortissima, etc.) Representatives of the genus are constantly being reviewed, systematized, and their names are changed, because of the great similarity of the plants, they are distinguished by the species of vallesneria by the length and width of the leaves, their color, shape, type of venation. Depending on the habitat conditions, the plant is able to change its “external data”.

The biological requirements of most representatives of Vallisneria are the same, so their detailing is not critical.

A vallisneria americana

"Mini Twister"

B Vallisneria americana var.biwaensis

With Vallisneria americana (natans)

D Vallisneria nana og

E Vallisneria spiralis "Tiger"

Growing area: almost all continents in temperate, tropical and subtropical zones. Under natural conditions, vallisneria can be found both in the flowing waters of rivers and standing waters - ponds and lakes.

In the photo Vallisneria in nature

At the end of the article there is a video about vallisneria in natural waters.

Appearance: Vallisneria is a beautiful shrub with narrow ribbon-like leaves from 10 to 80 cm long. Vallisneria foliage is usually strong and elastic; different shades of green and red. Herbivorous inhabitants of the aquarium are not dangerous, except for digging species that can pull out a poorly rooted plant. Some forms of Vallisneria have very sharp leaves due to small cloves. Therefore, you need to carefully handle it, so as not to cut your fingers. In nature, sometimes in home pond conditions, subject to the presence of abundant sunlight, valisneria blooms with beautiful small bells that adorn the water surface.

Root system: developed in moderation. Milky yellow roots up to 10 cm in length. The roots are elastic, not prone to morbidity, easily, compactly assembled and planted in the hole during planting. Deepening - with an open root neck.

Priming: composition and structure are not fundamental. Ideal - gravel fraction from 4 to 6 mm. The thickness of the soil is 4 cm. The substrate should be the most permeable, then the plant will take root soon and develop well.

Lighting for vallisneria

Preferably bright illumination, but vallisneria develops well with more muted light. The light spectrum does not matter.

Water parameters for vallisneria

Comfortable temperature: from 18 to 32 ° C. If the water is cooled for a long time to 15 ° C and tends to decrease, the plant may die.

"Acidity" Ph: weak or neutral.

Stiffness dH: average.

Salinity of water: from 0 to 20 ppm.

If you have a frame aquarium or bad tap water, watch the rust concentration in it, the plant does not like it. An excess of copper in water also affects the development of Vallisneria. This metal can get into the aquarium together with preparations against snails and algae, as well as with medicines for the treatment of fish.

Placement and landing of vallisneria in an aquarium

It is better to plant vallisneria along the back and side walls in a group of several plants and quite tightly. It forms a beautiful green wall and is the perfect backdrop for all types of ornamental fish. To make it easier for you to take care of the aquarium garden in the future, you should purchase Vallisneria from a group of mother and daughter plants.

It is convenient to plant the valisneria next to the filter, in the place of water discharge. Due to the flow of water, the plant will be evenly distributed over the surface.Vallisneria can also be used as a restriction on the spread of free-floating plants by placing its leaves in the form of small islets. To fix the position of the vallisneria afloat, you can use snags or strong leaves of other plants (for example, Echinodorus).

Care and pruning Vallisneria

When the leaves of valisneria reach the surface of the water, they frame it beautifully from above. If there are not many plants, they do not impede the free access of the necessary amount of light to the aquarium. Otherwise, you should get rid of them. Vallisneria better thin out. After pruning the foliage looks unnatural, it turns yellow and may rot.

Vallisneria reproduction - vegetative

The “babies” of valisneria are formed at the base of the mother plant. The barb is fixed at a distance of 5 to 10 cm from the mother bush, a daughter plant is formed, and then it develops further. There may be about 50 of them in a year. Rooted children with 3-4 leaves 7 cm long can be separated from the mother plant. Seed propagation

Wallisneria does not require undue attention to itself, does not need special care, but it is impossible to completely ignore the needs of the plant for development. For some time, valisneria can grow in poor soil, with poor lighting and muddy water, but for the time being. In the end, the plant will begin to languish: almost cease to grow, the leaves will become shorter and fade. Therefore, at least sometimes the grass should be fed with complex fertilizers in the form of tablets or paste. Water should also be changed regularly. But the peat and clay in the soil is not necessary. Vallisneria also do not need carbon dioxide.

Synonyms: Sometimes this plant is called and written as walisneria, with one beech "l". However, it is correct, yet to write with two vallisneria - vallisneria.

American valisneria

Vallisneria americana var. americana

The plant is unpretentious, does not require much attention. American valisneria has many forms that vary in width and length of leaves.

Growing area: Eastern North America.
Forms and appearance: leaves are collected, in the form of rosettes, ribbon-shaped, brittle and soft, sometimes at the edges with the teeth. Representatives of the American Vallisneria subspecies may differ in the structure of the sheet plate and its color (from various shades of green to many shades of red).

Leafy handicaps: leaf width is about 10 mm, with several veins and distinct horizontal strokes.

Broadleaf forms: sheet width up to 25 mm, the vein can be from 5 to 9 pieces. Priming: loose, rich in nutrients, up to 7 cm thick, in tandem with liquid and horse fertilizers, which include iron, is the best option for the full development of the plant.

Lighting: bright, 12-hour light day.

Water parameters:

Comfortable temperature: 20-28 ° C.

"Acidity" Ph: 6,5-8.

Stiffness dH: 5-15°.

Accommodation in the aquarium: When planting a vallisneria in your aquarium, it should be remembered that the plant grows up to 1 m in height, therefore it can significantly impair the coverage of the underwater world of your pond. If you nevertheless decided to acquire such water weed, then pick up the inhabitants of the aquarium, which is acceptable muffled light.

It is worth noting that Vallisneria americana is most attractive in very large aquariums. A good planting option is about 4 plants per 20 cm2.

American Wallisneria is a background plant, so they are planted along the back and side walls of the aquarium.

The complexity of care: low.

Trimming: you can cut the leaves, but not necessary. After pruning, the plant's appearance deteriorates and its growth weakens.

Reproduction: vegetative, uniform.

Spiral valisneria

Vallisneria americana var. biwaensis

Growing area: southern usa.
spiral leaves, twisted into a corkscrew, up to 5 cm in width and about 50 cm in length.
Root system:
gentle, white color.
should consist of fine fractions (up to 2-3 mm). In the place of landing the layer is not less than 4 cm thick.
medium or bright, desirable natural light.
Water parameters:

Comfortable temperature: 20 - 25 ° C.
"Acidity" Ph:
neutral or slightly acid.
Stiffness dH:
not higher than 8 °.
Regular water changes.
Accommodation in the aquarium:
Looks good in the center or in the foreground of a large aquarium.
Reproduction: vegetative, layering.

Giant valisneria

Unpretentious aquarium plant. Due to the large size it needs an aquarium of solid parameters. For this reason, giant gallium is not popular among aquarists. It grows with proper lighting evenly throughout the year.

Growing area: Southeast Asia.
large bushes straight stiff leaves up to 1 m in length, different shades of green.
Root system:
coarse (pebbles or sand with a grain of 3-4 mm), nutritious. The plant feels good from old aquariums, where there is a large amount of organic matter. Soil thickness - not less than 8 cm.
bright, 12 hour light day. If the aquarium is low, lateral lighting is desirable, as an addition to the upper one.

Water parameters:

Comfortable temperature: 22-26 ° С, it should not be allowed to fall below 20 ° С. "Acidity" Ph: mild, weakly acidic medium.
Stiffness dH:
less than 8 °.
Regular water changes are not critical.
Accommodation in the aquarium:
can only be grown in a large aquarium.

Reproduction: vegetative, layering.

Wallisneria nana (dwarf)

Vallisneria nana

Growing area: Northern Australia.

This wallisneria has a short rhizome, forms lateral shoots. In an aquarium it reaches sizes up to 30-60 cm, which depends on the power of lighting and the nutritional value of the medium. The plant has dark green narrow leaves. The leaves in the socket, much narrower than those of other members of the genus Vallisneria, and not very long. It has small teeth on the edge on the top of the sheet. Wallisneria nana has two forms: either the leaves are hard and up to 15 cm long, or thin, ribbon-like, drooping, surprisingly narrow, smooth, up to 60 cm long.

It is unassuming, like all Wallisnerias, a fast-growing aquarium plant. It is recommended for decorating the middle and background in small aquariums.

It has a longer growth phase and is more light-loving than other Wallisnerias, otherwise unpretentious. Wallisneria nana well develops in alkaline water of medium hardness at a temperature of 25-29 ° С, tolerates deviations from the specified parameters. It forms many lateral processes and develops well under good conditions. The dwarf Wallisneria has a longer period of adaptation than the other Wallisnerias. If the plant is well taken, it will continuously give daughters. thanks
The author of the article is Irina Gorobets,
for the provided material and cooperation!

Intersnuyu video with Wallisneria

Beautiful photo with vallisneria