Algae on the walls of the aquarium


Algae in an aquarium, how to get rid of and fight with all their species

know the enemy in the face

The issue of algal flash in an aquarium regularly torments both beginners and pros of the aquarium craft. Why all? Because these unwanted guests can arise, both "in the young" and "in the old" pond.
An experienced aquarist will immediately notice the undesirable algae, and knowing about its name or genus, quickly neutralize it, not allowing the outbreak. But newcomers have to tight! The situation is aggravated by the incredibly diverse abundance of information on algae control. Who says: keep the aquarium in the dark, on the contrary, increase the light day! Some say: you overdose fertilizers in the aquarium, while others, on the contrary, say little macro fertilizer, etc.
Let's see what is wrong in the aquarium! How to deal with it! Break the legends and myths about algae!

What is aquarium algae?

Many beginners call algae aquarium plants and vice versa plants are called algae !!! This is a fundamentally wrong understanding of the essence of plant nature.
Aquarium plants - This is the highest plant world. In the aquarium, these are the same plants as in the field or on the lawn near the house. This is the biological kingdom, one of the main groups of multicellular organisms, including, of course, mosses, ferns, horsetails, moss, etc.
Seaweed - this is the lowest. A heterogeneous ecological group of predominantly phototrophic unicellular, colonial, or multicellular organisms that live, as a rule, in the aquatic environment, in a systematic sense, representing the totality of many divisions. Entering into symbiosis with fungi, these organisms in the course of evolution formed completely new organisms - lichens.
Having distinguished between these two concepts, we have decided who to fight specifically. Our aquarium enemy - algae, the lowest plant world!

Methods of struggle and disposal of algae

At the dawn of the formation of our site was written a simple article: Flying on the walls of the aquarium and the stones: Green scurf in the aquarium, white scum in the aquarium, mucus in the aquarium !!! Time passed, and to my surprise, even such a short little article gained popularity, it has already been viewed by 22 thousand people! Yes and the forumguys often ask for help in dealing with these nasty "raids."
Well, it's probably time to paint everything on the shelves!
So, here are the basic and effective methods of dealing with green, brown, brown, black, blue-green algae patches.
Like plants, there is an insane amount of algae, as well as their species and subspecies. Of course, it is impossible to know all of them, but you need to know the group, the kind of algae! On this depends the effectiveness of the struggle and the actions that need to be done.
It is in this omission that all the confusion in the advice on the forums lies: remove the light, turn on the light .... Everyone has different algae outbreaks, different aquariums, different lighting, water and hydrobionts.
Below, in this article, the main and most common algae in the aquarium and the specifics of dealing with them will be given.
The root cause of any aquarium trouble is the absence or disturbance of the biobalance in the aquarium, that is, the mutual equilibrium of all aquatic organisms (fish, plants, mollusks, algae, fungi, bacteria, etc.).
You'd be surprised, but in the aquarium always, there are always spores of various algae, as well as fungi, etc.! All of them perform their function, for example, to clean the aquarium from dead organics, to remove poisons (ammonium, nitrite and nitrate) from the aquarium, etc. In other words, the aquarium is not sterile - it is a living organism, from various groups, colonies of living organisms that are visible and not visible to humans.

An algal flash is a visual indication of a violation (absence) of a biobalance in an aquarium. This is the loss of any link in the balance!

Finding out what link fell, you need to return it to its place. What a newbie to do is hard!
Here are the main reasons for the loss of the biobalance link:
- excessive amount of daylight in the aquarium or wrong aquarium lighting mode. Accordingly, it is necessary to reduce or adjust daylight hours. Or in general, if possible, turn off the light for a couple of days, as a preventive measure.
- lack of daylight or use of "wrong" lamps with a "wrong" spectrum. Accordingly, it is necessary to increase the light day or remove the lamps with a "bad" spectrum and you need to buy lamps for the spectrum or purchase lamps for the missing spectrum. Read more Lighting aquarium and the choice of lamps and Lighting aquarium do it yourself.
- the presence in the aquarium of excess dead organic matter and dirt (dead plants, fish, food residues, kakul, etc.). Simply put, the aquarium does not have time to cope with so much "garbage" and the only way out of our beloved, living aquarium, is a call to help algae, who happily gobble up all this byaku.
Accordingly, it is necessary to remove all the "garbage": siphon the bottom of the aquarium, clean the walls, decor and equipment, mechanically try to remove the algae, as well as make more frequent and more complete water changes for fresh, eventually, fill the aquarium coal filter.
- The following reason follows from the above and is a destructive continuation of the "dirt" in the aquarium. All dead organics are decomposed by beneficial bacteria and fungi, and removed from the aquarium. If this dead organic matter a lot and it accumulates, the microorganisms do not have time to process it! In the aquarium, poisons begin to accumulate - decomposition products: ammonia, nitrites and nitrates, which leads not only to the appearance of algae, but generally ruins all life in the aquarium.
In addition to the above measures for thorough cleaning of the aquarium, you need to apply the following aquarium chemistry:

A) Zeolite. Sold in pet stores or other places. For example, a mixture of zeolite and coal is ubiquitous. Fluval Zeo-Carb.
On a note: you need to know that aquarium coal is not effective from poisons and only ion-exchange resin - zeolite removes them. Read more ...
B) Preparations of bio-starters, as well as preparations promoting an increase in the colonies of beneficial bacteria. Simply put, these are drugs that contain the very bacteria that decompose poisons. A lot of such drugs, for example, are popular: Tetra Bactozym, Tetra NitratMinus, Tetra NitrateMinus Pearls, Sera bio Nitrivec and others.
3. A large number of plants in the aquarium. No one has scientifically proved that plants suppress algae, but the fact remains that in an aquarium with live aquarium plants (1/2, 2/3), there are no algal outbreaks, except greenish dots sometimes appear, and then from strong illumination.
Here is an example from my own experience. I had a herbalist for growth (I grew plants for the future of an aquascape), there were many different plants. The time has come, I made my scape, spread out plants and flooded some algae (algae) in it, and this is all because the aquarium is young, the plants have not gotten stronger after transplantation, and their number has decreased. The time passed, the plants grew stronger and took over the lower ones and the thread disappeared.
Therefore, if you have the opportunity to provide plants with proper care: LIGHT, CO2, PLE - surely plant beds!
4. There are useful fish that fight - eat algae and algal plaque:
A) Siamese Algae Eaters - tireless workers of the aquarium, sometimes it seems that the only meaning of their life is the insatiable desire to kiss all the plants, suck all the stones and walk through all the aquarium decorations. They can still be found under the abbreviation SAE, which stands for Siamese Algae Eater and translates as Siamese algae. There are also KAE and IAE - Chinese and Indian algae. Effective from algae "black beard", "filament" and "deer horns", etc.
B) Ototsinklyus - no less effective fish. Due to the structure of its mouth gently and well remove algae from plants, decor and walls. Copes with green, brown (diatoms), etc.
B) Ancistrus- also helpful. But, unlike the aforementioned fish, adult antsistrus individuals are lazy. And they say that in addition to algae, they chew and plants.
D) The whole family is also a good helper in the fight against algae. petsilievyh - guppies, swordtails, mollies, patcilia and others.
D) All possible clams. - apularias, coils, fizy, etc.
5. And finally, the aquarium chemistry will come to the rescue, the overwhelming algae. In pet stores sold a lot of such drugs, as a rule, in their name they contain the word "Algo" (alga), for example, Tetra AlgoStop Depot. Use these drugs should be carefully, wisely and according to the instructions. I recommend Tetra products precisely because they have the mildest effect. With proper applications - taking into account all the circumstances in the aquarium, Tetra preparations do not adversely affect the plants.
So, we have examined the main causes of the appearance of algae in the aquarium, as well as dismantled the main methods of dealing with them. Finally, it should be noted that, as a rule, “algal trouble comes in a complex”, and therefore it is necessary to deal with it in a complex, i.e. not one method, but several at once, if not all at once.
Algae in the aquarium - know the enemy in the face!

Types of aquarium algae with photos

As previously mentioned varieties of algae very much! They number more than thirty thousand species !!! Below are the most common algae, the reasons for the appearance in the aquarium and the individual characteristics of solving problems with them.
But, first classification. Due to the abundance of algal mass, they were simply divided according to the color of the thallus (thallus) into:
- Diatoms - Diatomeae;
- Brown algae - Phaeophceae;
- Green algae - Chlorophceae;
- Yellow-green algae - Xantophceae;
- Red algae - Rhodophceae;
- Golden algae - Chrysophceae;
- Blue-green algae - Cynophceae;

They include the following "popular algal pests":

Brown or diatom algae

(brown coating on the walls, soil, stones of the aquarium)
photo brown, brown algae in the aquarium
These are the simplest and, if I may say so, harmless algae. They are placed at the very top of the list, as they often appear among beginners - in young aquariums. The first reason for their appearance is the lack of lighting, the second is the absence of a biogenic tuned nitrogen cycle in young aquariums.
As soon as a young aquarium tunes in or lighting is added, they will disappear. You can remove them mechanically and with the help of snails.

Red algae or black algae

Vietnamese seaweed or deer horns

photo of aquarium algae flip flops
About this algae, probably, they write on each the forum! Still, the ranks of the unhappy owners of this infection in their aquarium, everything is replenished and replenished.
This alga is very tenacious and difficult to excrete. Its appearance speaks primarily about the high content of dead organic matter in the aquarium, which it feeds on.
The methods of struggle are common: we clean everything carefully, siphonize the soil - we remove organic matter. We put coal and zeolite in the filter, make frequent water changes (up to 50% per week), well, we use algaecide and algae))).

Alga Blackbeard

photo seaweed black beard
Many confuse it with the "Vietnamese", because it is similar and has the same causes of appearance. It usually appears in "young aquariums". Inference methods are the same.

Filamentous algae (popularly, filamentous)

Alga Edogonium
photo of thread in the aquarium
This is the most common type of filamentous algae that attack an aquarium. At first it looks like green down, then like long green strings. When they occur, it is recommended to apply the above described methods of control. As well as in the literature it is noted that this alga appears due to the lack of macro elements. Surprisingly, in particular, phosphates and nitrates (of which everything is derived). There is a positive effect when adding them. In advanced cases, algicidal preparations are used.
Kladofora (popularly known as Kladofora thread)

It has branching and does not have long strings. As a rule, it appears in aquariums with poor filtration, poor water flow and the presence of stagnation zones, where it “blooms”.
It is possible to get rid of it by eliminating negative factors, by mechanical means (by hand) and algicide.
This seaweed is very nasty and not only because it is slimy and green, but also because it grows with a geometric progression. It is difficult to withdraw - neither algaecide, nor SAE will help. It is difficult, but you can defeat it mechanically: by manual selection, by rubbing it with your fingers (it is fragile), by pulling out from the bottom. As an additional measure of struggle helps: killing the light, fish and algae shrimp.

It can also be attributed to filamentous algae, because has a filamentous structure. As a rule, it appears in young aquariums, where the biobalance is not yet set up, which can be identically called the nitrogen cycle. This is not such a terrible seaweed! It actually disappears after the establishment / restoration of the biobalance in the aquarium. Applies to it, all common methods of struggle are effective. Most effective: water change and algaecide.

Ksenokokus - green plaque on the walls of the aquarium

Already with this alga faced all and beginners and pros. It appears from the excess light or the wrong daylight mode. At the same time, plant biomass does not play a role. It appears in aquariums with lush vegetation, and in the aquarium with "three rastyuchkami."
Recommendations for combating xenococcus (the correct name is colekheta) are general: reduce, adjust daylight hours, algaecide, mechanical cleaning, fish and shellfish helpers, frequent water changes.

Blue Green Algae

photo blue-green algae in the aquarium
These are rare guests of our aquariums. But nevertheless they need to know. They are formed on the tips of the plants or the tops of the decor. Unlike other algae, blue-green is a colony of bacteria, and it is very toxic (they release toxins into the water).
Well, since these are bacteria, you can get rid of them with human antibiotics and septic tanks or with antibacterial aquarium preparations. Sulfur Baktopur. If you do not want to poison the aquarium with harsh chemicals and antibiotics, you can locally use hydrogen peroxide in the right doses.
That's all! I wish you success and always stable aquarium!

Algae in the aquarium: how to fight?

Algae - this is not all that grows in the water. So called lower, primitive photosynthetic organisms, often consisting of a single cell or several cells collected in colonies or filaments. They live everywhere in the aquatic environment. They are distinguished from higher plants by the absence of developed organs: stems, leaves, flowers, and also the fact that throughout their history they lived exclusively in water, while the plants were formed on land, and only after that some of them returned to the water .

Higher flowering plants (as well as several species of moss and ferns) are planted to decorate and revitalize the aquarium, while algae, with the exception of a single species of decorative importance, enter the aquarium without our participation and reproduce in it just when the balance is knocked down balance is broken. They form a suspension in the water, causing its turbidity or discoloration, or stick around all the surfaces in the form of fluff, bundles and balls of yarn, plaque, mucus and the like. It is clear that their presence does not contribute to the beauty of the aquarium.

Algology tour

Why do algae sometimes capture an aquarium?

The laws of nature are such that living organisms settle everywhere where suitable conditions exist for them. The main thing you need to live algae:

  • water;
  • shine;
  • nutrition (macronutrients).

Obviously, all this is in any aquarium.

Algae compete with flowering plants for light and macronutrients. Since the latter are more complex and highly organized, in favorable conditions they triumph in this competitive struggle, restraining the growth of their more primitive microscopic ancestors, taking away their nourishment.

However, they are older, smarter, more hardy, patient and less demanding. These, of course, are not properties of their character, but features of biology. Algae can form various types of spores and other structures that can survive adverse times, they need to illuminate a different spectrum, they have other, faster ways of reproduction. And if the conditions in the aquarium are not ideal for higher flora, there will certainly be purple, diatoms or cyanobacteria, which will not delay to take advantage of this.

There are several sections of algae with different colors depending on the pigments they contain. Next, we describe how the representatives of different departments in the aquarium look and what conditions cause outbursts of their numbers.

Blue-green (cyanobacteria)

Their cells do not have nuclei, so these organisms in the row of algae stand apart. По сути они являются бактериями, которые приобрели способность к фотосинтезу (в ходе него при помощи энергии света из воды и углекислого газа в живых клетках образуются сахара).Despite their low position on the evolutionary ladder, these creatures are extremely tenacious and plastic, and the damage they can do to an aquarium is difficult to overestimate.

Cyanobacteria form mucous membranes covered with large gas bubbles of a dark green or bluish film on the walls of the aquarium, soil, plant leaves, decorations. All this beauty (and in this sight there really is something fascinating, alien) delays the artificial reservoir at an incredible speed, emitting a noticeable stench. The outbreak of the number of these organisms can greatly harm plants and fish even in natural conditions (cyanobacteria are the main cause of water bloom in the summer heat), and in an aquarium it is just a disaster that needs to be urgently addressed, and to save fish from death.

Often the situation is aggravated by an insufficient amount of oxygen in water, its alkaline reaction and high temperature.

Red (Rhodophyta)

They are also called purple. In nature, they are predominantly marine organisms, very complex and uniquely arranged, with interesting life cycles, and simply incredibly beautiful. Such unsightly representatives as Vietnamese or black beard live in aquariums; they are rather nasty brown or almost black tassels, bunches of threads, fringe on walls, leaves of plants and underwater objects. Vietnamese threads are usually short, 5-10 mm, collected in brushes or bushes, and in a black beard they are long, up to several centimeters, often branched. Due to the invasion of purple flowers, everything in the aquarium looks dirty and untidy, and the plants, covered with a solid carpet of these algae, lose their ability to photosynthesis and die quickly enough.

In addition, strong current, high rigidity and alkaline reaction of water, shift of the light spectrum towards green (this happens when the lamps are not properly selected or used for too long), as well as exposure to the aquarium sunlight from the window.

Diatoms (brown) algae in the aquarium

Diatoms are unicellular organisms that have a silicon shell in the form of a box, many of which are capable of movement. The significance of diatoms in natural marine ecosystems is simply colossal, since they constitute a significant proportion of plankton and form a huge part of the organic matter of the earth (about a quarter), and their shells after dying are the basis of sedimentary rocks.

But in artificial reservoirs they, like their counterparts from other departments of lower plants, are unwanted guests. Brownish or brown algae in an aquarium, forming a slimy coating, especially in poorly lit places, often near the bottom - these are, as a rule, diatoms. (By the word “brown” - we mean only color, not systematic belonging, since Brown Alga proper is a separate department of highly developed marine organisms with large bodies, thallus).

Their reproduction contributes to a pH above 7.5, high water hardness and a high concentration of nitrogen compounds. An outbreak of diatoms can cause an excess of sodium in water, which occurs, for example, after treating fish in a common aquarium by adding salt.

Chlorophytes (green) algae in the aquarium

According to its structure, they are closest to higher plants. They form fringing fouling, bunches, balls and strands of thin threads or films of different shades of green color on aquarium glass, soil elements, plants, stones, snags, decorations or a green suspension, from which water becomes cloudy and changes color (the so-called water bloom).

In addition, the appearance of filamentous forms of green is often caused by the lack of macroelements - salts of nitrogen and phosphorus. The growth of higher plants in such cases slows down or stops completely, and the aquarium draws in greenish mud.

Combating algae in an aquarium

When describing the algae divisions, we intentionally described in such detail what conditions the representatives of each of them need in order to breed in an aquarium to a significant amount (there are always a small number of these organisms in the aquarium, but they do not spoil the beauty and do not interfere with other inhabitants). Obviously, in order to cope with the invasion of crimsons, diatoms, or their brethren, these conditions in the aquarium must be changed. And the most important thing is to plant a large number of living higher plants and create conditions under which they can successfully compete with algae and thereby control their numbers. The following steps will help change the balance of power in favor of the plants.

Light Adjustment

It is necessary to move the light parameters in the direction uncomfortable for algae and convenient for plants. In the case of purple and diatoms, the strength and duration of the illumination should be increased by more careful selection of lamps or installation of additional ones. Lamp maxima should be in the blue and red regions of the spectrum. In the case of strong development of chlorophyte fouling, the light intensity and the duration of the light period, on the contrary, decrease.

When water blooms or flashes of cyanobacteria, the lamps turn off completely for several days, sometimes the aquarium is additionally covered with a cloth or paper so that even scattered sunlight and indoor light cannot reach it. Higher plants will survive this (except for the most tender ones, which it is better to remove to another container so far), and the algae will die.


To inhibit the growth of the lower algal flora in the aquarium, you need to observe the balance of nutrients. There should be as little dissolved organics in water as possible, and macroelements (nitrogen and phosphorus compounds) should be sufficient, but not excessive. This requires regular cleaning of the aquarium, siphon of the bottom, water changes by a quarter or third per week, depending on the density of the aquarium population.

The lack of nutrients in the aquarium is less common than their excess, and is usually observed in herbalists with a very high planting density and a small animal population. In such situations, the issue is solved by fertilizer, while they must be placed in the ground, directly to the roots of plants. Accurately used and currently available aquarium tests are used to accurately measure the concentration of various compounds in water.

Carbon dioxide

The introduction of CO2 into an aquarium with the help of various devices provides the plants with a source of carbon and, in the presence of good lighting, can significantly change the balance of forces in their favor. In addition, carbon dioxide acidifies water, which also usually adversely affects the lower flora and beneficially - on the higher.

In addition to these basic measures aimed at improving the conditions for plant growth and normalizing the overall situation in the aquarium, for the fight against algae are used:

  • mechanical removal from surfaces using a scraper or toothbrush;
  • settling algae fish in an aquarium (ototsinklyuy are effective against diatoms, CAE against purple bug and filamentous chlorophyte, labo and hirinoheylus - against scale greens) or, in the case of water blooming, branchy daphnia crustaceans;
  • in rare cases (for example, an outbreak of cyanobacteria or blooming of water) the use of chemical methods of control - antibiotics and algaecides, as well as an ultraviolet sterilizer is justified.

It must be said that the mass development of cyanobacteria is the reason for taking emergency measures: in addition to the already mentioned complete darkening and use of the antibiotic and sterilizer, it is necessary to deprive algae of nutrients as much as possible. To do this, stop feeding the fish in the aquarium (it is generally better to remove the fish for a while), set the filter power to a minimum, at the same time turning on aeration, do not change the water. Already after the death of most of the blue-greens, general cleaning of the aquarium with a deep siphon of the soil and the replacement of most of the water is carried out.

But such measures to destroy algae give only a temporary effect, which quickly passes without normalizing the overall balance of the aquarium. Therefore, with all due respect to the ancient origin and the enormous ecological role of algae, let us try to create in our aquarium such conditions under which not they, but those for whom we start our indoor ponds — higher plants and fish — will feel comfortable.

Brown algae in the aquarium

If you notice brown mucus on the walls of the aquarium, it is time to sound the alarm - a harmful alga started up in your pond. It leaves its marks on the bottom and on the leaves of aquatic plants. If we do not fight with the brown alga, it will very quickly clog the reservoir, worsening the habitat for fish.

What is kelp

Brown algae are microscopic living organisms that can exist both unicellularly and take the form of colonies. They are attributed to diatom algae, which means "divided in half."

Such is their structure: 2 halves of a single whole - epitek (upper) and hypotec (lower). All this is exposed in a single solid shell. Through its porous walls and metabolism occurs brown algae.

Like any simplest, kelp reproduces by division. When you divide the daughter cell gets a piece of the mother shell. And these halves of the shell are able to recreate themselves, putting both “mother” and “daughter” in new armor.

Since the shells are silica impregnated, they are not able to increase in size. Because of this, each next generation of diatoms smaller than their ancestors. But they also manage to leave brown raids on any surface of the aquarium.

There are among these algae and individuals, which are collected in tubular colonies, having the form of brown bushes. They grow very quickly, sometimes reaching a height of 20 centimeters. But to a greater degree they look like flat formations, which we perceive as a raid.

Brown algae prefer shaded corners of ponds with an abundance of organic matter. It just stimulates them to active development. Filling the entire aquarium, this alga deprives other inhabitants of the right to a normal existence.

The causes of diatoms

If the reservoir is new, then the appearance of brown blotches on the walls of the aquarium or the surface of the water in a couple of weeks is considered normal. The reason is still uninhabited habitat - a fairly high content of carbon and organic matter in the water. Apparently, there are still a small number of fish and green vegetation in the pond, which would absorb all this abundance.

But if the "brown junta" began to capture the space of the old aquarium, then here you should already think about where the regime was violated.

  • Perhaps the aquarium is not well lit - the drillers love penumbra very much.
  • Increased iodine content is also a cause of the occurrence of brown algae.
  • Brown algae are also fed from silicates contained in the reservoir. The source can be substrates containing silicon, or sand at the bottom of the reservoir.

But whichever of the causes affecting the appearance of the brown alga is not, the fight against it must begin immediately, as soon as the first signs of the problem are noticed.

Means to combat brown algae

To the inhabitants of your home pond feel quite comfortable, get rid of the brown algae by all available means. Do not allow these "amoeba" to multiply in your tank.

  • In a young aquarium, it will be enough to do mechanical work, removing all plaque from surfaces. To do this, you can purchase a special scraper or take a conventional blade.
  • With leaves of aquatic plants, brown raids will have to be cleaned with just their hands. In no case do not use foam or spongy material to remove algae. And do the cleaning carefully, so as not to damage the plants.
  • Do not forget about accumulated dirt at the bottom of the reservoir - it is better to remove it with the help of hoses intended for this purpose.
  • Remove pebbles, shells and pebbles from the aquarium (when changing water) and rinse them well. Do the same with decorative elements (artificial locks, decorative snags, etc.).
  • It should also be rinsed under running water and filter, as well as compressor hoses.
  • Get biological weapons in an aquarium - fish that feed on brown algae: gyrinoheylus, catfish antsistrus, Siamese algae and others. Mollusks (neurite olive snail, horned snail) are also good cleaners.

But various chemicals to combat the brown "evil spirits" should not be used - do harm to other inhabitants of the reservoir. But you can use some antibiotics (for example, penicillin). And be sure to put the aquarium as close as possible to the light.

Preventive measures

In order to no longer have to deal with such a scourge as brown algae, follow the elementary rules for the care of domestic water bodies.

  • First of all, ensure sufficient illumination of every corner in the aquarium. If daylight is too short, use additional lighting. It is better to use lamps that give red spectral light.
  • Always keep the temperature in the pond at the optimum level (+ 22-280С) - kelp like exactly the opposite, cooler.
  • Regularly change the water in the aquarium, follow its technical indicators (pH, iodine, nitrates, phosphates, silicates). Never use water immediately from the tap - you need only purified.
  • Install in the pond filter, capable of absorbing silicates
  • Plant aquarium with a large number of aquatic plants - they will “take away” some of the food from the brown algae, thereby slowing down its growth.
  • Experienced aquarists recommend putting zinc and copper products on the bottom of a pond. These metals are able to destroy the brown alga.

Each time, conducting a replacement of water or cleaning the aquarium from the brown alga, provide residents of the reservoir with twenty-four-hour lighting for several days.

How to get rid of kelp:

The big problem is green bloom in the aquarium

A well-kept aquarium is a true pride of the aquarist and an excellent addition to the interior solution of the room. However, it happens that the aquarium almost captures green plaque. How to clean the aquarium from this scourge?

The emergence of a similar problem signals an imbalance of the ecosystem. At the same time, plaque can occur in different shades, and have a diverse dislocation. Before you decide to fight it, it is important to determine the true causes of the settlement of the disease algae in the depths of an artificial reservoir.

Green algae aquarium cleaning

If you find a patina of green color in an aquarium, then first of all you should pay attention to caring for it. If you do not clean and change water in time, then sooner or later you will definitely encounter a green tint of water and walls. This state of affairs can be deadly for the inhabitants.

Measures to clean the aquarium from green algae:

  • Reduce the light intensity. Green algae grow favorably with excessive light, so limit the backlight time to 10 hours per day. Avoid direct sunlight, from which the water becomes even greener.
  • Daily replacement of 15% water. Of course, this process will take a lot of time, but it is necessary to do so in order to preserve the ecosystem in a neglected aquarium. Water suited for this purpose is suitable for this.

After the algae visually disappeared, it is necessary to take measures to eliminate the source of water infection. The presence of plants will help you protect your water from uninvited "guests." It has been proven that the presence of flora favorably affects the cleanliness of the aquarium and the algae do not settle on the walls, decor, plants and soil. From this it follows that it is necessary to settle as many plants as possible, which will protect aqua.

It happens that algae go into the active phase even with a large number of plants. This suggests that the flora is in a disgusting state. Most often this means that the plants do not receive the necessary trace elements. The first nutrient deficiency causes insufficient nutrition. That is why experienced aquarists know how important it is to apply fertilizer to the soil.

Be careful when choosing a fertilizer. Since in the struggle for the popularity of zoological fish, many manufacturers proudly declare the absence of nitrates and phosphates in their products. Thus, they are trying to convey that they have excluded those products that cause the growth of algae. But, on the other hand, these macronutrients are incredibly important for maintaining harmony in the ecosystem. Most novice breeders diligently choose phosphate-free products and only make things worse, without knowing it. In fact, nitrates and phosphates are the main food for plants.

If you believe the statistics, then more than 80% of the problems associated with the lack of these elements. Unfortunately, this can only be learned in a critical situation, when plants stop growing, and algae overwhelm all the space, walls, soil and scenery begin to sink in a green patina.

Разновидности популярных водорослей

Конечно же, приравнивать все водоросли не стоит. Для каждого вида существуют свои виды борьбы. Иногда случается такое, что оптимальные для устранения одной водоросли условия, действуют с противоположным эффектом на другую. Часто можно услышать о появлении нитчатых водорослей.

Разновидности нитчатки:

  • Эдогониум. В самом начале ее можно сравнить с зеленым пушком, который появляется на всех горизонтальных поверхностях. Появляется в основном из-за недостатка питательных макроэлементов. To eliminate it, it is necessary to introduce the missing nitrates and phosphates into the soil. With the emergency treatment of the aquarium in the initial stage, recovery occurs within a week. For a running case, use additionally AQUAYER Algo Shock. In order to prevent reappearance, hook up algae (shrimp or fish) to your pets.
  • Kladofora. Algae is like a thread with branched structure. Kladofora appears even in those aquariums, where systematically apply fertilizer. The most common cause of its occurrence is poor circulation of water, the presence of zones of stagnation. Most often, they eliminate it physically, that is, by cleaning the aquarium with their hands. To kill the spores, add Algo Shock carefully following the instructions.
  • Spirogyra. The main problem is that plants are not able to cope with it. For a couple of days, it can cover the entire aquarium, including the walls. If you touch the thread of spirogyra, it is very slippery and thin, easily pounded between the fingers. The only way to fight - making AQUAYER Algo Shock. It is important to mechanically clean the aquarium from the appearance of new threads. Try to scrape it from there as often as possible. It is important to limit the coverage, as this is the main reason for its appearance. It will not be superfluous to establish an algae fish for prevention.
  • Rizoklonium. The main reason for the appearance - the wrong start of the aquarium. In it, as a rule, the nitrogen cycle does not have time to be established, which leads to an increase in the level of ammonium. Set the nitrogen cycle and algae disappear by themselves. Substitute ½ water every week. In extreme cases, you can use the drug AQUAYER Algicide + CO2, but this is not necessary.

Green coating on the walls

Green plaque that forms on the walls is called xenokakus. Because of it, the walls and decorations are covered with an unpleasant shade. Xenokocus multiplies under the influence of excess light, so most often this problem occurs in aquariums with excessive lighting. Limit light output to 5 watts per liter of water.

The second most important reason can be considered a lack of oxygen or more jumps in performance during the day. If this is not your first time encountering this problem, then consider buying an H type controller. However, it is hardly possible to protect oneself from this phenomenon forever, but it is quite realistic to slow down.

Prevention in the appearance of green plaque:

  • Oxygen regulation;
  • Lighting limit up to 8 hours;
  • Decrease light intensity;
  • Establishment of snails of theodox, fiz, coils, antsistrusov and ototsynklyusov.

To resort to chemical means to clean the aquarium is not recommended only if the situation becomes threatening to all inhabitants.

Algae on the walls of the aquarium. FROM WHAT? LITTLE LIGHT OR REVERSAL?

Elena Gabrielyan

If the alga is green then there is a lot of light - reduce the daylight time to 8 o'clock, normally it should burn 10-12 hours, if brown then its disadvantage - increase the lighting or change the lamps to more powerful ones. It can also be a black beard and the fight against it is quite complicated and does not always lead to success.


you need to regularly, preferably several times a day, remove them from the aquarium with your fingers or winding it on a rough wooden stick. However, this method is unsuitable for some types of algae, which are firmly attached to stones, leaves and other objects.
- Shut off the access of nutrients, for which purpose completely darken the aquarium, turn off aeration and filtration and not change the water until the algae completely disappear. The fish continue to be fed at this time so that no food remains remain in the aquarium.
- Stimulate the growth of higher plants that suppress the development of algae, for which purpose increase the number of plants, reduce the fish population, increase the illumination, up to 12 hours, clean the soil daily and change 1/10 of the volume of water.
- Many types of algae can be destroyed with copper sulfate. A solution containing 1 g of copper in 1 l of water is prepared from chemically pure or pure copper sulfate for analysis. After removing fish from an aquarium, it is introduced into the water at the rate of 1-10 ml per 1 liter of water, starting from a low concentration and if it does not work, the dose is increased. After the death of algae, the water in the aquarium is completely replaced at least 3 times and only then fish are allowed.
- A number of species of fish eat some species of algae, especially young shoots. These are labo, girinohaylus (young specimens), antsistrus, farlovela, ototsinklus, sturizoma, labeotrofeus, trophyus, chelostomy, petilia, sword bearer and guppy.
Aquarium algae. Green algae (Chlerephycecie).
- Tiny (up to 0.005 mm), spherical algae of the genus Protococus (Protococus), which form a light green, slightly mucous flooring on the aquarium glass and easily removed with a wiper.
- Siphon algae (Siphonales) form a dense, dark green floor of branched filaments on the sunlit walls of the aquarium. Easily removed with a wiper.
- Light green, slimy and thin threads of Ulothrix form tangles that connect and cover the floor of the aquarium and sunlit walls of the aquarium with flooring. They are removed reeling on a rough stick and after some time, after rapid development, they disappear.
- Many species of microscopic algae floating in suspension paint water in green, yellowish green, or brick green. A full blackout of the aquarium helps, the use of a large number of daphnids or several bivalve mollusks (put in a plastic box without a lid so as not to creep away), which some of these algae eat.
- The alga green ball (Aegagropila sauteri) consists of a colony of thin branched threads and reaches 12 cm in diameter. Feels good in water 18-20 degrees. At a temperature of more than 22 degrees, in 2-3 months it breaks up, from each part a new ball slowly forms. Propagated by division, serves as a filter.
- Kladofora is attached to a solid substrate (stones, snags, leaves, etc.), forming branching bushes up to 2-3 cm in height from gray to soft green. Remove with tweezers.
The hitch emerges under very strong aquarium lighting. They remove it by winding it on a rough wooden stick, in some cases bicillin-5 helps, and sometimes the alga disappears by itself.
Blue-green algae Favorable conditions are strong lighting with an excess of nitrogen compounds due to the rare change of water and dirty soil and a change of 1/3 of water.
Diatoms When poor lighting forms brown flooring on the walls, soil and leaves. With increased lighting perish.
Red algae or crimson. They multiply rapidly and are able to spread throughout the aquarium in a short time. Two methods of struggle are known:
1. Submission of carbon dioxide into the water to destroy brushes with long hairs, which after 2-3 months. separated from the leaves and sucked off with a hose.
2. Water with H more than 8 and pH above 7, with daily cleaning of the soil and the change of 1/4 of the water.
- The bearded seaweed forms a lightly branched yarn firmly on a sheet up to 15 cm dark to black-green.

How to get rid of algae on the walls of the aquarium

Care of the aquarium # Remove green algae from the glass of the aquarium #