Gold fish

Goldfish breeding

Pin
Send
Share
Send
Send


How to breed goldfish :: goldfish breeding :: Aquarium fish

How to breed goldfish

The maintenance of goldfish requires special attention from their owner. These aquatic inhabitants are distinguished by a rather whimsical character, so all additional elements for an aquarium should be selected very carefully. Reproduction of goldfish is a special process. The result of this period depends on your patience and knowledge.

The question "opened a pet shop. Business is not going. What to do?" - 2 answers

Instruction

1. There are many varieties of goldfish. In order to obtain good and “qualitative” offspring, during the spawning period, fish pairs of only one species should be deposited in a separate tank. Fry from different parents can inherit completely unpredictable traits, with the result that it will be difficult for small fish to be attributed to a particular breed.

2. Golden fishes become capable of breeding closer to the year of life. To determine the sexual maturity of the fish can be on some external changes. In females, distinctly visible growths appear on the front fins, and the tummies are rounded. Males change their behavior and try to spend as much time as possible in the society of females. In addition, on the gills they appear bright tubercles.

3. During the transfer of goldfish for breeding in a separate aquarium should pay attention to the potential conditions of their habitat. It is desirable that the situation and the temperature of the water in it practically did not differ from the usual dwelling for the couple. Otherwise, the long-awaited spawning may linger for a long time.

4. The process of courtship in goldfish takes place in an active form. The male by all means tries to drive the female into the most secluded place. As soon as this happens, he presses the female with his body and waits for the beginning of the laying of the eggs. Fertilization occurs immediately after the release of eggs from the body of the female.

5. Within several hours the female can lay eggs several times. The male at such moments is always near his companion. During the spawning rut of the inhabitants of the aquarium is better not to disturb.

6. Please note that immediately after the process of laying the eggs of goldfish is completed, it is necessary to return them as soon as possible to the old aquarium. Otherwise, they can eat their own eggs for food.

7. Delayed eggs at first is almost impossible to notice at the bottom of the aquarium because of the transparent shell. Color begins to change after 1-2 days. Your task is to constantly inspect the aquarium. As soon as you notice the location of the eggs, immediately remove them from the water with a special net.

8. Caviar should be placed in a solution of blue methylene. This tool can be found in any pet store or pharmacy. This substance will preserve the process of life inside the eggs. Otherwise, the caviar can become infected with a fungus, and all offspring will die. Treat future fry enough for several hours.

9. Fry appear from the eggs after about 5 days. Goldfish grow quite quickly, but you have to control the temperature of the water almost constantly. The optimal environment for fry - 23-25 ​​degrees.

10. Feed the fry need special food, differing in their consistency. Food for young fish usually resembles dust. After 1-2 months, the fry will be able to eat the food, which is usually offered to adult goldfish.

Related videos

note

The behavior of the male during spawning may resemble an aggressive attack. However, in this way he only tries to provoke and speed up the process of laying eggs by the female.

Helpful advice

Feed the fry need every three hours. If you see that small fish are often near the surface of the water, then do not rush to worry. Thus, they just try to get enough oxygen.

Golden fish breeding and care

Among the most popular inhabitants of aquariums, the interest in which has not faded over the centuries, a special place is occupied by goldfish. Breeding and growing representatives of this group in captivity is a very entertaining and interesting process. Goldfish feel good in a spacious and wide aquarium with good aeration and a layer of soil at the bottom. Water temperature should be from 15 to 24 degrees, hardness from 8 to 200, pH - 5.0-8.0. These are peace-loving creatures that should be kept separate from representatives of aggressive species. The most suitable option for breeding goldfish is a specific aquarium.

If the fish grow in favorable conditions, their maturity comes after a year. In order to control the spawning process, you need to know how to distinguish the sex of goldfish. To do this without a certain experience can be difficult. But if you look closely, you can see that the male has notches on the front rays of the pectoral fins. Females are more complete. During the spawning period, which, as a rule, falls at the beginning of spring, sex differences intensify. The male has small warts on the gill covers, and the females are noticeably rounded due to the presence of caviar. At this time, the behavior of the fish also changes: the males begin to stalk the females, driving them into the overgrowth of plants and in the shallows.

From this point on, goldfish, whose breeding is taken under control, are deposited in a separate (spawning) aquarium. You can also use another container with a capacity of 20 liters or more — a basin, a bowl, etc. The soil is laid on the bottom of the breeding ground and small-leaved plants such as elodea or peristleminous plants are planted. The water level in such a tank should not exceed 20 cm, while it is important to ensure normal aeration and good lighting.

The most beautiful, large and healthy goldfish should be selected, the reproduction of which will give a guaranteed good result. To obtain more fertilized eggs, it is recommended to apply group spawning, choosing 2-3 large males for one female. At a height of 1-2 cm from the bottom, you can tighten the grid, which will protect the eggs from eating. After the female has set aside the last portion of eggs, the producers are removed, and methylene blue or trypaflavin is added to the spawning aquarium to prevent the development of fungi. After a few hours, whitish unfertilized caviar appears, which must be removed. Now the main thing is to maintain a stable water temperature, and in 3-4 days the first larvae will appear, which in a couple of days will gradually turn into fry and begin to swim.

At this stage, attention should be paid to the question of how to feed goldfish. Fry are very voracious and require a good feed base. At first, they can be given ciliates, rotifers and microalgae. Feeding the fry food every three hours, you need to ensure that it is constantly in the water. As the fish matures, small daphnids and cyclops, nauplii of Artemia are added to their ration, and after the first month a tubule and a small bloodworm. At the same time, defective young animals are rejected and sorted by size. Upon reaching 4-5 months, the fish grow up to 4-6 cm, already having all the specific features by this time.

To obtain a successful result, it should be remembered that the optimal environment for the development of goldfish is clear water, well filtered and saturated with oxygen. An additional stimulus to their spawning will be a rise in water temperature up to 25 C. If the early spawning needs to be delayed, it is enough to cool the water in the aquarium a couple of degrees. Under favorable conditions, healthy goldfish will grow in the reservoir, reproduction of which will bring good results.

Comet Goldfish

The Comet Fish is a selective form of the Goldfish. She was bred in the United States in the 1800s. These aquarian inhabitants are representatives of the genus Karasei, so they are characterized by a fairly simple body structure. A truly luxurious tail, a long one with a split and a deep cut, testifies to belonging to the elite of the fish kingdom.

Comet

Content

The nature of the fish is very calm and peaceful. They get along well with all representatives of the class Goldfish, as well as with tetras, aquarium catfish, viviparous.

Aquarium water for the maintenance of comets should have the following characteristics:

  • temperature: 20-23 degrees, although individuals feel quite normal at a lower temperature (up to 15 degrees);
  • rigidity - 6-18;
  • pH - 5-8.

Part of the water should be replaced regularly. The volume of the aquarium depends on the number of inhabitants. On average, one representative of Goldfish should have at least 40 liters of water. 70 liters is enough for two fish, that is: the more inhabitants in the aquarium, the greater their density is allowed. But in this case it is necessary to provide high-quality aeration.

You should not expect that in an aquarium where the Comet Goldfish lives with its comrades, order will be maintained. Despite the immobility, Comets are very fond of digging in the ground (like all other representatives of the Karas). Therefore, in the aquarium there should be coarse sand or pebbles without sharp particles with a layer of 5-6 cm. For the same reason, too whimsical plants should not be planted, which will be eaten or dug in the shortest possible time. Plants with a strong root system and hard leaves, for example, valisneria, nugget or elodea, turn out to be the most enduring.

This variety of Goldfish is completely unpretentious and in the choice of food. They are happy to eat any kind of live and vegetable food. However, such promiscuousness in food often leads to their obesity. If the red fish "swollen" on the sides or abdomen, then once a week for it you should arrange a fasting day, in a running form - and put it on a starvation diet for a few days. To prevent obesity, fish should be given daily only 3% of the feed in relation to their body weight.

Also, the Comet fish needs bright light. It allows you to emphasize and enhance its beautiful color.
It is possible to determine that the conditions of keeping fish are unsuitable, according to the following criteria:

  1. The fins or tail are stratified - excessive density of fish population.
  2. Fins or the whole body turned black - inappropriate composition of water.

Normal maintenance of a comet in an aquarium is impossible without a heater and a powerful filter. Living conditions have a great influence on the appearance of the fish, as well as their ability to breed.

Breeding

Comets are ready for breeding, usually at 2 years of age. Spawning usually occurs in the first spring months. Set readiness for reproduction can be on the following grounds:

  • in males: warts on the gill covers, on the front pair of fins - notches;
  • in females, the belly becomes dense, tightly stuffed with caviar.

The Comet Fish breeds best in the equipped spawning ground:

  1. The volume of the aquarium - 25-30 liters of soft fresh water.
  2. The temperature is higher than the standard by 5-8 degrees, that is, about 25-30 degrees.
  3. The aquarium must be filled with sandy soil and small-leaved plants, and a protective net is installed at the bottom in order to protect the eggs from eating.

Before spawning, males are best separated from females for several weeks. At this time, their diet should be as nutritious and varied as possible. Before breeding, you can arrange a fasting day.

Spawning Males chase females throughout the aquarium, so the eggs are placed throughout the spawning area. One female lays about 10,000 eggs. Warm aquarium water contributes to the rapid removal of fry - they appear already on the second or fifth day. Their development occurs without adult individuals, which should immediately be removed from spawning. At first it is better to feed the fry with live dust, and a little later with rotifers and artemia.

All about aquarium goldfish


ALL ALL ALL ABOUT GOLDEN FISHES

Dear reader! This article is a team of all the articles on our site. We also tried to supplement the article with the nuances of maintaining and caring for goldfish in an aquarium.
Why do you need such an article? Everything is very simple. Many beginners in the aquarium world do not know how to contain them, make gross mistakes, as a result of which in a month the goldfish at best fall ill with fin rot and at worst pop up with the belly up.

For example, often on our forum, and on the Internet as a whole, they ask the question - why does my goldfish swim sideways or belly up? When you begin to understand, look for the cause of such a disease and ask questions to the owner ... the answer is by itself and literally lies on the surface of the water.
Many do not know, forget, or do not want to know that feeding fish should be balanced, that is, in their diet should include dry food, and live and vegetable. Goldfish are gluttonous, prone to overeating, so the question of balance in the diet for them as for anyone is relevant. As for the aforementioned question, the answer is simple - in the process of eating dry food, goldfish swallow air with food. If you feed them only dry food, fish, due to excess air in the food system, begin to float belly up. The problem is solved elementary - the fish are transferred to the correct, full-fledged feeding and after 3-4 days the goldfish begin to swim normally.
Alas, such examples are mass and it is impossible to highlight everything. But, we still try to do it, by centralizing all the information about goldfish. We will try to focus on the most important points of the content of gold aquarium fish.

Goldfish: description, types, highlights


The variety of aquarium fish sometimes affects. And given the fact that one species of fish has its own varieties - the aquarium world becomes just gigantic.
Sometimes it is even difficult for an experienced aquarist to tell what kind of fish it is. Hopefully, the following selection of GOLDEN FISH SPECIES will help you figure out who is swimming in your tank.
Carassius auratus
Order, family: crucians.
Comfortable water temperature: 18-23 ° C.
Ph: 5-20.
Aggressiveness: 5% are not aggressive, but they can bite each other.
Compatibility: with all peaceful and non-aggressive fish.
Golden, or Chinese, crucian carp in nature lives in Korea, China and Japan.
The goldfish was bred in China more than 1,500 years ago, where it was bred in ponds and garden ponds on the estates of nobles and wealthy people. For the first time, a goldfish was imported to Russia in the middle of the 18th century. Currently, there are many varieties of goldfish.
The color of the body and fins is red-golden, the back is darker than the abdomen. Other types of color: pale pink, red, white, black, black and blue, yellow, dark bronze, fiery red. A goldfish has an elongated body, slightly compressed from the sides. Males can be distinguished from females only during the spawning period, when the female's belly is rounded, and the males on the pectoral fins and gills develop a white “rash”.
For the maintenance of goldfish best aquarium capacity not less than 50 liters per individual. Short-bodied goldfish (voiletails, telescopes) require more water than long-bodied (simple goldfish, comet, shubunkin), with the same body length.
With an increase in the volume of the aquarium, the planting density can be slightly increased. In particular, in the volume of 100 l, you can settle two goldfish (it is possible and three, but in this case it will be necessary to organize a powerful filtering and make frequent water changes). 3-4 individuals can be planted in 150 l, 5-6 in 200 l, 6-8 in 250 l, etc. This recommendation is relevant if we are talking about fish of at least 5-7 cm in size without taking into account the length of the tail fin.
A special feature of the goldfish is that it loves to rummage in the ground. As the soil is better to use coarse sand or pebbles, which are not so easily scattered fish. The aquarium itself should be spacious and species, with large-leaved plants. Therefore, in an aquarium with goldfish, it is better to plant plants with hard leaves and a good root system.
In the general aquarium, goldfish can be kept along with calm fish. The necessary conditions for the aquarium are natural light, filtration and aeration.
Water characteristics: temperature can vary from 18 to 30 ° C. The optimum should be considered in the spring-summer period 18 - 23 ° С, in the winter - 15 - 18 ° С. The fish tolerate a salinity of 12-15%. If you feel unwell fish in the water, you can add salt, 5-7 g / l. It is advisable to regularly replace part of the volume of water.
Goldfish in relation to food unpretentious. They eat quite a lot and willingly, so remember that it is better to underfeed the fish than to overfeed them. The amount of daily food should not exceed 3% of fish weight. Adult fish are fed twice a day - early in the morning and in the evening. Feed is given as much as they can eat in 3-10 minutes, and the remnants of uneaten food should be removed. It is necessary to include both live, and vegetable food in their diet. Adult fish that receive proper nutrition can endure a week-long hunger strike without harm. It must be remembered that when fed with dry food, they should be given in small portions several times a day, because when they get into a wet environment, in the fish's esophagus, it swells up, increases significantly in size and can cause constipation and disruption of the normal functioning of the digestive organs of the fish, the consequence of which may be the death of the fish. To do this, you can first hold the dry food for some time (10 seconds - flakes, 20-30 seconds - granules) in water and only then give them to the fish. When using specialized feeds you can improve the color of the fish (yellow, orange and red).
Long-bodied goldfish are durable, with good conditions of maintenance can live up to 30 - 35 years, short-term - up to 15 years.

Heavenly eye or astrologer

The astrologer has a round, ovoid body. A feature of the fish are its telescopic eyes directed slightly forward and upward. Although this is considered a deviation from the ideal, these fish are very beautiful. Color stargazers orange-golden color. Fish reaches a length of 15 cm.
Read more about this Golden Fish here. Astrologer
Water eyes

This fish is the result of the inexorable and merciless selection of Chinese goldfish. The size of the fish is 15-20 cm. It has an ovoid body, the back is low, the profile of the head passes smoothly into the profile of the back. Coloring is different. The most common are silver, orange and brown colors.
Read more about this Golden Fish here. Water eyes
Vualekhvost or Fantail

The veiltail has a short, high rounded egg-shaped body and large eyes. The head is big. The color of the veil tail is different - from a monotonous golden color to bright red or black.
Read more about this Golden Fish here. Vualekhvost
Pearl

Pearl is one of the fish included in the so-called "Golden Fish" family. The fish is unusual and very beautiful. Bred it in China.
Read more about this Golden Fish here. Pearl
Comet
The body of the comet is elongated with a long ribbon forked tail fin. The higher the grade of the fish specimen, the longer its tail fin. Comets are very similar to voilehvosta.
Read more about this Golden Fish here. Comet
Oranda

Oranda is one of the fish included in the so-called "Goldfish" family. The fish is unusual and very beautiful. Orana differs from other goldfish - with a growth-cap on its head. The body, like many "Goldfish" ovoid, swollen. In general, similar to the veiltail.
Read more about this Golden Fish here. Oranda
Ranchu

Another artificially derived form of "Golden Fish". Homeland - Japan. Literally Ranch translates as "cast in orchid." The fish is unusual and very beautiful.
Read more about this Golden Fish here. Ranchu
Shubunkin

Another breeding form of "Golden Fish", derived in Japan. Suitable for maintenance in spacious aquariums, greenhouse and ornamental ponds. In Japanese pronunciation, its name sounds like sibunkin. In Europe, the first fish appeared after World War I, from which it was imported into Russia and the Slavic countries.
Read more about this Golden Fish here. Shubunkin

Telescope


The telescope is one of the fish included in the so-called "Golden Fish" family. The fish is unusual and very beautiful. Received its name for large bulging eyes, which may have a spherical, cylindrical or conical shape. Fish size up to 12cm.
Read more about this Golden Fish here. Telescope
Lionhead

The fish is unusual and very beautiful. The fish has a short rounded torso. The posterior profile of the back and the upper outer edge of the caudal fin form an acute angle. In the area of ​​the gill covers and the upper part of the head one can see volume growths that are formed in these fish at three months of age.
Read more about this Golden Fish here. Lionhead

Ryukin


Vakin

COMPATIBILITY OF GOLDEN FISHES WITH OTHER FISH SPECIES The issue of compatibility of Goldfish (Carassius), on the one hand, is quite simple, but on the other hand, it is complicated and this is due to a number of specific nuances that are characteristic of this particular family of aquarium fish.
I think this topic should be started with the fact that ALL BREEDS OF GOLDEN FISHES were obtained as a result of a thousand-year selection. Therefore, Vualekhvosti, Orande, Telescopes, Shubunkin and others - these are artificially bred breeds, which, in fact, were obtained from one ancestor - the Chinese silver carp.
Therefore, if we talk about the intraspecific compatibility of Goldfish, that is, the possibility of sharing, for example, telescopes and koi carps in an aquarium or a pond, then this coexistence takes place - all types of Goldfish are absolutely compatible with each other. But, HERE THERE ARE ONE BUT! Since all the Scrofula are from the same tribe, they are in the same reservoir, they will interbreed with each other, resulting in "bastards" or if you want mutants - outbred hybrids. Taking into account the experiments, such a joint residence leads to degeneration and the transformation of the fish back into a crucian. Therefore, if you plan to get offspring and breed Goldfish, then their species content in the general reservoir is FORBIDDEN! Before the discussion, the specific compatibility of Goldfish with other fish. It should be noted that Goldfish are large, slow, slow-moving fish. And this specifics should definitely be fat. For example, if you keep the Veiltails in a small aquarium with others, whether they are the most peaceful fish, all the same, over time, the fish will die, since the lack of free space - standards of maintenance, will do its job and the fish will simply “gnaw”.
In addition, when discussing the compatibility of any species of fish, it should be borne in mind that a single fish taken has its own character. In this connection, even following all the rules of compatibility of aquarium fish, a negative result can be obtained at the output. In order to maximize this factor, it is always recommended to plant different fish with young and at the same time, rather than gradually add new ones to old ones. Now let's look at the compatibility of Goldfish with specific species of other fish.
Goldfish and Cichlids: Astronotus, Angelfish, Discus, Akara, Apistogramma, Parrots, Tsikhlozy: a diamond, black-striped, Severum and other cichlids.
Such a union, alas, is not possible. All the fish of the cichlid family are aggressive and will not give life to the golden fish. Astronotus generally perceives Gold as a good live snack.
Therefore, to keep them together is strictly contraindicated, even with small cilida.
Somehow, I tried to combine veil eyelids with Goldfish, but alas, they had to be planted in the future. Despite the fact that the veil scalars are slow and somewhat similar to gold, all the same, after a couple of days, races began throughout the aquarium.
So, I recommend not experimenting - this is wasted time and money!
Goldfish and Tetras: neons, minors, ternsim, pulcher, lanterns, glass tetras, congos and other characteristic fish.
Here the situation is fundamentally opposite. All tetras are so peaceful fish that their union with Goldfish will be a wonderful variety of fish in your aquarium. One, but !!! When Goldfish grow up, they may burst into small tetras, therefore it is better to take “large” Kharacin fishes, for example, ternets or Congo, to Zolotuha.
Goldfish and Labyrinth: all gourami, lyalius, macrapod others
I do not even know what to say to you. On the one hand, they are compatible, but on the other hand they are not. This is due to the fact that the labyrinth, in particular gourami, very unpredictable fish and each individual gourami has its own character.
So that it is clear, I will give an example from my experience. Once upon a time, when I started my first aquarium of 35 liters and stuffed a bunch of fish there, including two marble gouramies, the latter were like mice, did not touch anyone and coexisted peacefully in the “little hostel”. But when one day I planted another blue gourae into a large aquarium, he made such a riot that it was bad even for small cichlid. I had to take her back to the pet store.
At the same time, lyalius - these are scared fish, I have no experience, but I think that it will be bad for them with Goldfish.
In view of the above, the coexistence of Gold with Labyrinths is a confusion, so this neighborhood is not recommended.
Goldfish and Aquarium Catfish, other bottom fish: corridors (speckled catfish), antsistrusy (catfish sucker), fighting, akantoftalmusy, green catfish brochis, tarakatumy and others.
In general, there is 100% compatibility. I draw your attention, only that not all somas are very peaceful. For example, Botsia Modest or Bai are somiers who can bite. Or, for example, ancistrus at night can easily stick to sleeping Goldfish, from which the latter will look like plucked hens.
Otherwise, everything is OK! Moreover, all aquarium catfish are good helpers in the fight with poop from Goldfish. Provide an aquarium bottom to the catfish and the frequency of the aquarium floor siphon will decrease.
Goldfish and carp: barbs, danios and others.
It should always be remembered that Goldfish are slow and any neighborhood with nimble fish, and even more so those who can pluck them is not desirable. I do not see anything criminal in the joint content of danios and goldfish, but I do not recommend barbs. Sumatrans easily bite Golden.
Goldfish and pezillium, viviparous fishes: guppies, swordtails, mollies and others.
I read somewhere that guppies can attack and bite off Goldfish! But, something I can not believe in these stories. I can’t even imagine how this gopeshka will be able to covet on a big Golden Fish, unless they attack the crowd))).
I admit honestly, I don’t have any experience in keeping live beetles and Goldfish. And in general, it is somehow not solid to keep golden aksakals of the aquarium world and unpretentious live-bearers together.
And I also want to offer you this topic like the compatibility of goldfish and aquarium plants.
Who started up Goldfish knows that this issue is acute, as the Golden family well just loves plant food. To avoid the disgustingly plucked aquarium plants, I give my Golden twice-weekly grown duckweed from another aquarium. It is also possible to recommend to keep Goldfish with aquarium plants that will be too tough for Goldfish: Anubiases, microsoriums, cryptocorynes, as well as mosses.
For more on this, see this article - FISHING EATING PLANTS WHAT TO DO?
Summing up, it should be said that, nevertheless, Goldfish are fish intended for a specific aquarium that require special, special attention. Moreover, the cost of these fish is quite high, they are long-lived compared to other inhabitants of the aquarium and therefore it would be a shame to lose such a fish due to the fact that some five-kopek antsistrus did not let her sleep at night. See also the article. Compatibility of aquarium fish.
What to feed the goldfish? Golden feed. Goldfish - extremely playful, cheerful and voracious creatures. They quickly get used to the person of their breadwinner, and as they approach the aquarium, they jump out of the water like piranhas with hungry eyes. This behavior of your waterfowl pets can be repeated 10 times a day, but this does not mean that the goldfish are hungry all this time. This is just a conditioned reflex. It is necessary to feed your pets 1-2 times a day with one pinch of dry food, cube freezing of live food, etc. This is quite enough for their normal growth and development. If you feed more often, the fish will behave very sluggish, in addition their life expectancy will be reduced.
Despite the fact that the process of feeding goldfish can bring you a lot of pleasure - do not abuse it. In fish, there is no sense of saturation. Do not forget about it. So do not overdo it. And your pets will long please your eyes and soothe raging thoughts.
And now from the lyrics, to the point!
Goldfish need a balanced diet. Their diet should include both live food - bloodworm, artemia, daphnia, rotifers and other food: dry and especially vegetable.
If we talk about proportions, then in my opinion for goldfish, this proportion looks like 40% live, dry and 60% vegetable food.
Live food, adore all the fish and gold is no exception. When keeping Zolotuh in an aquarium, it is better to use frozen live food, as they are safer than full-scale.
Dry feed - a universal remedy for feeding any fish. Manufacturers of aquarium feed took care of the usefulness of the diet. Therefore, if you feed only goldfish with such food, this will be quite enough for their well-being (in the sense of getting the fish all the necessary elements). But if you want to feed your goldfish to be elite))). It is necessary to introduce vegetable feed and only natural.
How is this achieved ?! Yes, very simple. You need to breed Leopard or Riccia, well, very golden people love this aquarium vegetation.
Here, please see how much duckweed grows in my week in an aquarium with scalars. All she goes to feed goldfish. Economical and non-GMO!


As it is known, duckweed and riccia grow very quickly and do not require special conditions for maintenance. For a week you will grow it on a scale sufficient for goldfish to feed. It should be diluted in a separate aquarium and transferred to scrofula 2-a - 3 times a week. That's all you need.
It is necessary to distinguish the feeding of goldfish in the aquarium and in the pond.
For feeding goldfish in a pond, it is recommended to use meat chips mixed with bread, as well as cooked porridges: buckwheat, oatmeal, millet, etc. The pond must be with vegetation !!!
If anyone is interested in this question, I recommend you to talk with our user "Muri", she is a noble ruler of goldfish in the pond!
I feed my goldfish with the following formula:
Resurrection - live food, Monday - Wednesday is dry and substitutes, Thursday - duckweed, Friday - Saturday - dry and duckweed. Sometimes I give a day of discharge - I don’t feed at all. On such a feed my scrofulous - fat and fluffy !!! :)
WHAT FEEDS CAN BE ADVISED:

Tetra GOLDFISH MENU - dry food for all goldfish.
dry food for all goldfish Tetra GOLDFISH MENU
Contains four types of feed in the 1st:
- chips with excellent nutritional value;
- granules supporting the coloring of fish;
- flakes of biologically balanced nutrition;
- Daphnia as a delicacy;
Elite-quality products designed exclusively for goldfish, perfectly recommended for many years, Tetra has maintained this 100% image.
Packing: 250 ml. Tetra, Germany
Cost: 9.00 US dollars
Special food for goldfish TetraAniMin with the formula BioActive.

It includes all the necessary nutrients and trace elements.
Very well digested fish
Tetra Goldfish Gold Japan

food for goldfish Tetra Goldfish Gold Japan
Super-class feed, granulated selective goldfish.
- granulated feed quickly softens in water;
- complete and varied diet of fish;
Dry food, 250 ml can.
Sera goldby gram - sulfur goldby gran

Very nutritious and easily digestible granulated food for all goldfish. The composition includes - Omega fatty acids, beta-gluconate, the necessary amino acids, astaxanthin, minerals, vitamins, vegetable substances, etc.
Manufacturer: Germany, 250 ml can
No way, the food for goldfish "Zohir" Coined specifically for Goldfish, taking into account the gastronomic needs of the fish of this species. Feed composition: proteins 36%, fat 5%, ash 6%. Improves digestion, stimulates growth, strengthens the immune system, provides a bright color of fish. Remarkably digested.
* REMEMBER: Underfeeding of fish is always better than overfeeding! Especially this rule applies to goldfish. Otherwise, the aquarium will be dirty, and the fish will be sluggish and suffer from inflammation of the gastrointestinal tract.
HOW TO DETERMINE THE FLOOR OF THE GOLDEN FISH: THE MALE BABY AND THE CABLE! Everyone wants to know the sex of their goldfish, unless of course the goldfish are not intended solely for decorative purposes. Real goldfish fans usually want to get offspring from them, and here the definition of sex is of particular importance. There are several ways to determine the sex of goldfish.
During the spawning period, males of goldfish are easier to identify than females. Males develop tubercles or white tubercles, growths along the pectoral fins and gill covers. In addition, males form dented teeth, the so-called "saw", on the male front fins. Females become slightly asymmetric, especially in the abdomen. They look bloated.
At the end of the spawning period and after several spawning spawns in some males, the thoracic region becomes rigid. It is rather difficult to determine this state, therefore, those who are not able to do this can be comforted by the realization that not many can distinguish a goldfish female from a male.
Here are a few more ways to determine the sex of a goldfish, but even they are useless if the fish is not even a year old *, that is, if the fish is not sexually mature.
1. Males have an outgrowth extending through the posterior part of the ventral fin to the anus. In females, this growth is either completely absent or much smaller.
2. In females, the area between the ventral and anal fins is soft, and in males it is hard.
3. Although it is difficult to see, but the anus of females is round and convex, while the anus of males is thinner and concave.
4. The male's abdominal fins are pointed, and the female's fins are round and shorter.
5. The color of the females is brighter and they are more active. This method will undoubtedly help distinguish the female.
6. You can run the female goldfish in the aquarium and watch the reaction of the other goldfish. Males will swim to a new fish, and females will not show interest.
* Do not be surprised, if in a pet store when buying goldfish, give your question to the male and the female, you will be told that this is not possible! Sex differences in the family of goldfish appear only with the onset of sexual maturity, i.e. after 1 year.
Reproduction and breeding of goldfish
Goldfish is one of the most ancient aquarium fish. Their story begins with the first century of our Era and Ancient China. Even then, the emperors of the East and Buddhist monks began to maintain, breed and select goldfish.
Actually, therefore, at present there are a great many aquarium goldfish, and their cost can vary from 2 dollars to several thousand US.
So, if you want to feel like a true goldfish breeder, emperor or Buddhist monk, then this article is for you!
Breeding or breeding goldfish, is not a difficult task.
However, goldfish are not guppies and in order to get offspring you still have to work hard and be patient. In addition, you need to have a sufficient number of aquariums or ponds.
You can't get off with one aquarium!
Goldfish breed independently, without any hormonal injections or without creating too specific conditions. Actual, good maintenance and proper feeding is the criterion and incentive for spawning producers. All types of goldfish can spawn in aquariums of a small volume of 30 liters. However, better results can be achieved in larger aquariums or in ponds.
Spawning of goldfish can occur at a temperature of 16 degrees Celsius, but it is better to maintain the temperature of the aquarium water at a level of 22-24 degrees Celsius. After replanting manufacturers increase the temperature by 2 degrees. The water level in the spawning pond should be 20-25 centimeters, the water should often be replaced by fresh and purged.
Unlike many other spawning aquariums, spawning for goldfish should be well consecrated all light day. If it is a pond, then the sunlight should be diffused, and the pond should be equipped with shelters in the form of floating plants.
Producers are planted in a spawning aquarium in the ratio of 1 female to 2-3 males and richly fed with live food (bloodworms, earthworms, daphnia, ground meat with bread, etc.). At the same time they try to select manufacturers based on their size. Especially females - the bigger they are, the more eggs they sweep out. And vice versa - small females toss less eggs. They equip an aquarium with vegetation (such as a combo, riccia, duckweed, a peristist, etc.), and do not carpe the bottom of the aquarium - on a clean bottom the eggs retain and do not die, but some aquarists set up a separate grid. Sexual maturity in fish comes to a year of life. In this case, the males appear on the gills white bumps and the so-called "saw" on the front paired fins, and the females are growing stout with caviar, their body is bent.
A female matured for breeding emits a special substance that has a characteristic odor and is particularly concentrated in the genital organs. Actually, this smell attracts males and is a signal of a female's readiness for reproduction. Under the influence of this secretion males begin to swim for females.
Under pond conditions, it is recommended to perform the above spawning manipulations in March – April, with the expectation that spawning will begin in May – June. It is believed that this is the most prosperous time for the successful ripening of caviar. In addition, at this time it is easier to provide the eggs and fry with the necessary comfort.
If the courtship of the males began earlier than March - April and the spawning should be delayed, the producers are seated and also the water temperature is lowered to the desired period (period).
The peak of reproduction of goldfish is accompanied by violent courtship of the males - they chase the female around the reservoir, and on the day of spawning, these courtships look like a frank pursuit.
Taking into account such features, the spawning aquarium is equipped with soft aquarium plants and not sharp decor (it is better without it at all). Otherwise, the fishes will sweep, and their fins will be torn after spawning.
The spawning begins with the first rays of the sun and lasts 6 hours. Spawning gold can every month until October. During one spawning, the female can sweep up to 3000 eggs. In the "home" spawning of goldfish can sometimes occur continuously - year-round. However, this leads to the exhaustion of manufacturers, and in this case they should be given rest, seated in different aquariums.

The spawning of the eggs takes place gradually - the female driven by the males touches the vegetation or walls of the aquarium and releases 10-30 eggs, which the males immediately fertilize - watering the eggs with milt.
Then, sticky caviar falls to the bottom or sticks to the plants.
Eggs on the first day are slightly orange and slightly flattened, the diameter of eggs is up to 1.5 millimeters. On the third day, the eggs are straightened and discolored, in connection with which they are difficult to detect.
Immediately after spawning, the producers are removed from the spawning tank, otherwise the offspring will be eaten.
The water level in spawning caviar is reduced to 10-15 centimeters and protected from overheating and excessive sunlight (if it is a pond). Aquarium intensively aerated.
The appearance of fry from caviar depends on the water temperature. At a water temperature of 22-24 degrees Celsius - the incubation period is 4-5 days, but at a temperature of 14 degrees Celsius it can reach 7-8 days.
On the second day after the appearance of the young in the aquarium, it is recommended to launch snails (for example, coils) so that they eat the dead and not fertilized eggs. You can carefully assemble yourself, but it is more difficult than it seems. It is very important not to kill the young. At the same time, leaving the dead calf is fraught with - live larvae do not tolerate "dirt" and can get sick.
Young goldfish in the first days is weak and harmless, in fact it looks like a reed with eyes and a yolk vesicle in the middle (the yolk bubble is necessary for obtaining nutrients in the first days of life). Fry move in spurts and can stick to the stop.
After about 2-3 days, they begin to blithely float around the reservoir, and from this point on, the young need to be fed with starter feed: live dust, the finest alga, and other finely ground to feed dust. After 2 weeks, you can give larger feed. At the age of one month, juveniles are capable of taking small bloodworms. As a starter feed, they also use egg yolk finely ground in water, as well as the soaked oatmeal grated in the dust. The fry are fed abundantly, but in portions - little by little but often.
We can recommend the following feed for young goldfish.
JBL GoldPearls mini is premium class granules, packaged in 100 ml.
It has a special recipe ideal for young fish. The diameter of the granulated feed 1-2 mm. Contains spirulina and carotenoids, which contribute to the development of good fish color, contain proteins (10%) from wheat germ, fatty acids.
After two weeks the fry are planted in a 30 liter aquarium at the rate of 250 fry per aquarium. Aquariums flush or replace water frequently. Without purging, it is recommended that 120 fry be planted per aquarium. So they contain up to 2 months of age, gradually sorting by size and reducing their number. Fry are caught not with a net, but with a saucer or other utensils. So they are easier to get and count.
spawning aquarium for goldfish
Sorting carried out on the principle of rejection. Harvested juveniles with defects, juveniles lagging behind in growth, etc. In the end, get pedigree goldfish.
Defective and non-standard young, unfortunately kill. First, because it, as a rule, does not survive itself, and secondly, even if it survives, nothing good comes out of it. With its further content, you risk getting outbred offspring "bastards", but if you go further, then the fish just degenerate into goldfish.
At first, the scaled juveniles of goldfish have a silver-gray color, like the progenitor of the goldfish. Coloring appears only at the age of 3-5 months. To improve the brightness of the fish color, it is recommended that "sunbathing" light should be diffused. In an artificial reservoir, no shading is necessary, on the contrary, the aquarium is intensively illuminated with lamps. It is worth noting that the color of goldfish can vary in fact a lifetime.
Scaleless fry do not pass the aforementioned period of silver color and already at two weeks of age begin to turn into their final color.
Juveniles of goldfish are very capricious and prone to disease. To avoid mortality of offspring, you should regularly monitor the cleanliness of the aquarium, aeration and filtration. Constantly monitor the population - do not forget to settle as they grow.
When breeding goldfish need to strictly observe the species crossing. All goldfish can interbreed with each other (for example, veil tails with comets).
However, this will lead to degeneration and wastelessness of scrofula.
Summing up, you can make a short list of what you need for breeding goldfish:
- one-year-old males: 1 female, 2-3 males.
- aquariums: the main from 150 liters, spawning from 30 liters, aquarium for youngsters; (aquariums should be illuminated).
- aquarium soft-leaved plants;
- of course: aeration, filtration, thermostat;
- feed for fry;
- improvised aquarium equipment;
- suction water;
If you have any questions, you can ask them to our expert on fish breeding Vitaly Chernyavsky, here HERE!
Why die fish or the sad fate of goldfish!
The motive for writing this article was the communication on the Fanfishka.ru form with a certain citizen who, in the section on helping to determine the disease of the fish, wrote - "Help me, please, I have a telescope at the age of 6 months. I haven’t eaten anything for three days. It floats on the surface with difficulty , there is enough air. There is no external damage and swelling. Help if you can still, it's a pity to lose the fish. "
Being a conscientious and sensitive person, I gave her a plan of action and events according to the full scheme, advised the preparations. And then, when I wrote everything, I thought - why should I treat it so radically, maybe the reason for the poor health of the fish lies on the surface? :)
In this connection, I asked a citizen: "Tell me, what is your aquarium volume, who lives there besides the telescope, etc."
When I received the answer, I just went nuts! I’m trying to get along with treatment and help, but it turns out that ... read the answer: "Aquarium 80 liters. 1 gourami, 2 thorns, 2 gold, 2 telescopes (1 patient, another healthy, but for some reason does not grow), 2 danios, 2 small antsistrus, 2 speckled catfish, 1 angelfish, 2 ampoules ... ".
The reason that the telescope was bad - was revealed !!!
Imagine if 16 people planted in an eight-meter hut, how much would they stretch? ... Whatever the conditions in this hut, the sea would start a month later.
Vendors of pet shops are selling fish to beginner aquarists, using their insatiable desired “I want this fish, this one and that one and those catfish”. At the same time, neither of them think about the further fate of the fish.
Sad! But for some reason, this is exactly the fate of "cramming nevpihuemoe" comprehends only aquarium inhabitants. Imagine, mother and daughter come to the pet store and say: "Give us 15 cats, 3 Yorkshire terriers, 5 chinchillas and one sheep dog and 2 more parrots do not forget." Unfortunately, with aquarium fish this is exactly what happens.
And then, after a while, a convulsive scripture begins and the search for an answer to the questions: why the fish die and die, why do the fish lie at the bottom, float or swim on the surface, do not grow and do not eat! HERE'S OWN, THAT I HAVE FORGOTTEN ME TO WRITE THIS ARTICLE! This is some kind of attempt to stop the mockery of fish! An article for future similar questions. An article that will somehow help newcomers and people who are going to buy an aquarium to understand that the fish are the same living things as we do - they grow, require certain conditions of detention, have their own characteristics, etc.
Very clearly, this problem is seen in Goldfish (pearls, comets, telescopes, veils, shubunkin, oranda, ranch, koi carps, etc.). People either do not know or do not understand that this family of fish belongs to large species. In fact, they need to be kept in ponds (as it was in Dr. China) or in large aquariums.
But it was not there! People for some reason have developed a Hollywood stereotype that Goldfish looks beautiful in a round small aquarium.
HOWEVER, THIS IS NOT THE CASE!!! The minimum volume of an aquarium for a pair of goldfish should be from 100 liters. This is the minimum in which they can live normally, and it’s not a fact that they will grow "to their full height."
Therefore, recalling the above example with a citizen, which has an 80-liter aquarium, in which: 4th scrofula, scalar, gourami and others ... it is not surprising to hear "My golden fish does not eat anything, lies at the bottom or swims belly to the top." And it touches the question, why do they not grow?))) But how can you grow here, you wouldn’t die!
In addition, in this example, there is a relative compatibility of fish. We must not forget that Scalaria is a peaceful, but still South American cichlid, and somehow it’s not a friend with goldfish. The same goes for the gourami - they are peaceful, but snooty individuals come across.
Summarizing what has been said, I earnestly ask everyone not to violate the norms and conditions of keeping fish. Do not be greedy! And then your fish will grow beautiful and big. Somewhere I read that for 1 cm. The body of a fish without a tail should have 2-3 liters of water in an aquarium. Who cares here is a link to the compilation - How much can the fish in an aquarium X liters (at the end of the article, select the aquarium of the desired volume).
Now I would like to talk about other reasons that lead to poor health of fish, without any visible reason (signs of the disease are not visually visible).
If the norms of the volume of the aquarium are not violated, the compatibility of the fish and their number are not violated, and the fish still float or vice versa lie at the bottom and swallow air, then the reason may be: Poisoning fish with nitrogen, ammonia, and more simply poop. We live in the air, and the fish in the water. Parameters of aquarium water directly affect the health of the fish.
In the process of life, aquarium fish and other inhabitants defecate, another organic matter dies, the remains of food decompose, which leads to excessive saturation of water with nitrogenous compounds that are detrimental to all living things.
Thus, the cause of poor health or a pestilence in fish may be:
- lack of care for the aquarium (cleaning, cleaning, siphon, no filter or replacement of aquarium water).
- overfeeding fish (the presence in the aquarium is not eaten feed).
- untimely disposal of dead fish, etc. (some novices watch snails burst dead fish, this is absolutely impossible).
What to do in this case? It is necessary to eliminate the sources of nitrogen excretion:
- urgently transplant fish into another aquarium with clean water;
- strengthen aeration and filtration;
- clean the aquarium, and then replace 1/2 of the aquarium water with fresh water;
- Pour into the filter aquarium coal and ion exchange resins (zeolite), use another aquarium chemistry (Nitrate Minus Perls, Bakozym, at least Sulfur Nitrivek);
It should always be remembered that aquarium water should be replaced weekly. However, this is not always good - old water is better than fresh, especially for young aquariums, in which the biobalance is not yet tuned. So this should also be done with the mind and as needed. If you see that the water in your "young aquarium" is not green, not muddy, etc. Replace at the beginning of 1 / 5-1 / 10 of the volume of aquarium water, but often 2-3 times a week. However, one should always keep in mind that clear water is not an indicator of its purity. With that said, it is necessary to develop your own “tactics” of water changes based on the volume of the aquarium, its age and fish preferences, etc.
Emergency fish transfer is a temporary measure, if the fish is very profitable. As a rule, when a fish is not feeling well (lying on the bottom, swallowing air, swimming on its side, etc.), such an action brings it to life and after 2-3 hours it is cheerful and cheerful.
It should be remembered that such a transplant should be done in the water at about the same temperature as in the aquarium, the water should be separated (preferably), do not forget to provide aeration. And yet, if there is no other aquarium, an emergency temporary transfer can be carried out in a basin or other vessel.
About coal. Aquarium coal is sold in any pet store. It is not very expensive, so I recommend to buy it in reserve. Coal - this is a great additional measure in the fight against "shit and other evil spirits." If it is not at hand, you can temporarily take human activated carbon, wrap it in gauze or bandage and put it in the filter. You also need to understand that aquarium coal is not effective against nitrites and nitrates to eliminate them using ion-exchange resins and other chemicals. Watch
Water filtration. It's simple. The aquarium filter must be suitable for the volume of aquarium water. Additional helpers: aquarium plants, as well as snails, shrimps and crustaceans.
In the end, we can advise the drug for quick cleaning of the aquarium from sewage - TetraAqua Biocoryn.
Another reason that the fish die can be the wrong adaptation of newly purchased fish.
Firstly, Do not release new fish immediately to the aquarium. Everyone knows that. Let them acclimatize: Therefore, about the article, see All about the Acquisition of Transplant Transportation of fish!
Secondly, fish that lived in a pet store or grew up in another reservoir are accustomed to certain water parameters (pH, hD, temperature) and if you transplant them into water with radically opposite parameters, this can lead to their death within a day or a week.
Actually therefore for the correct adaptation there are so-called quarantine aquariums.You kill two birds with one stone: check whether new fish are contagious and adapt them to new conditions. The quarantine principle is simple - it is a small aquarium (another reservoir) into which new aquarium inhabitants are launched and within a week they are checked for lice, as well as they gradually add aquarium water from the aquarium in which they will live.
You can do without quarantine, but it is a risk! As a rule, it carries in 80% of cases, but 20% still remain. In order to neutralize these 20%, I recommend to transfer fish with Tetra AquaSafe (Tetra AquaSafe). This preparation "improves" aquarium water and reduces the stress of fish during transplantation.
Third reason the fact that the small fish is bad asphyxia, caused by the lack of sufficient aeration of aquarium water.
The obvious signs of asphyxiation (suffocation) in fish are: frequent opening of the mouth, heavy breathing, wide opening of the mouth - as if yawning, the fish swims near the surface and there is enough oxygen.
You should know that the fish breathe oxygen dissolved in aquarium water, which they pass through the gills with water and if it is not enough of the fish simply suffocate.
Enhanced aeration and bringing it back to normal will correct the situation!
Another fourth reason Ascent of the fish can use tap water to the top.
Opinions on this are different. While talking and discussing this topic, some comrades say: "Yes, all this is fikhgnya, I fill in the unstable tap water in the aquarium and everything is fine - the fish will not die." However, it is worth noting that tap water in many regions of the CIS is simply terrible! It contains so much bleach and other impurities that it is scary to use it. Somewhere, of course, the water is better here and “carries” - the fish do not die. In Austria, for example, tap water is generally spring water from the Alps, but alas, where are the Alps, and where are we ?!
Therefore it is very important to use only separated water for the aquarium. In addition to the fact that chlorine will evaporate from the water and heavy impurities will settle, excess oxygen will also be released, which are no less destructive for fish.
What to do if you poured tap water and fish from this poplohelo? Ideally transplanted into separated water. However, if you originally poured water, then you probably do not have separated water. One way out is to add aquarium chemistry that stabilizes the aquarium water. For example, the above Tetra AquaSafe.
Fifth reason: This violation of temperature.
The generally accepted temperature measure of aquarium water for many fish is 25 degrees Celsius. But too cold water or too warm leads to all the same symptoms: the ascent of the fish, lying on the bottom, etc.
With cold water, everything is clear - you need to buy a thermostat and bring the reduced temperature to the desired one. But with too warm water is much more complicated. Usually aquarists encounter this problem in the summer, when the water in the aquarium boils and rolls over 30 degrees, from which the fish become lethargic and "faint."
There are three ways out of this situation:
- cool the aquarium water handicraft: using frozen 2n. bottles from the fridge. But - this is not very convenient, because frozen water quickly gives off cold and you need to constantly change the bottle. In addition, jumps and temperature fluctuations - there, no less harmful than just elevated water temperature.
- sold special installation cooling aquarium, but alas, they are expensive.
- buy an air conditioner and install it in a room with an aquarium, in addition to room stuffiness, the air conditioner will knock down the aquarium heat.
The last option in my opinion the most acceptable.
The sixth and seventh reason
Sometimes the cause of bloating the fish and swimming a belly or side to the top is overfeeding. Again, this reason is largely related to goldfish, because they suffer from gluttony, overeating and begging. Do not enter them on occasion. Feed them exactly as much as it should be. Otherwise, your gluttons will earn inflammation of the gastrointestinal tract or, more simply, they will suffer from constipation!
Another reason for which the fish can lie down for no apparent reason is stress. Well, do not like her neighbors and that's it. Or it often happens that they take young fish, and all the boys and one female grow out of it, and as a result, the boys start a showdown - who is in charge. The weak begin to chase and tyrannize, with the result that they are hammered into a corner, lie on the bottom, well, and die. There is only one way out, to resettle everyone, give them to friends or back to the pet shop.
What else can affect the health of fish:
- Excessive lighting or stress from it;
- decorating the aquarium with chemically dangerous decorations (metal, rubber, plastic);
- overdose of drugs;
Summing up, it is possible to make an unequivocal conclusion that the correct maintenance of fish is a panacea for many aquarium ills. If you are attentive to your aquarium dwellers, they will thank you too.
beauty and longevity!
Video about goldfish

An interesting video story about goldfish

Category: Aquarium Articles / USEFUL TIPS FOR CONTENTING FISHES | Views: 82 929 | Date: 19-02-2014, 14:48 | Comments (7) We also recommend reading:
  • - Akara Curvyceps: content, compatibility, breeding, photo-video compilation
  • - Kalamoiht: content, compatibility, breeding, photo-video review
  • - Cichlid-cichlids in an aquarium
  • - Aquatic frogs: care, species, content with fish
  • - The best filter for aquarium: types of filtering, photo-video review

Aquarium fish swordtails: reproduction and maintenance

Swordtails are very popular among professional aquarists, and among fans. But before you get these bright fish, it is better to find out the details of care, breeding, compatibility with other types of fish, etc.

The natural habitat of the swordtails is Central America and South Mexico. Such an interesting name was given to these fish because of the unique shape of the fin. It is only for males and is used by them for reproduction. Surprisingly, females of the swordtail can change their gender by growing a sword fin, and even in such a state give birth to offspring. In length, they are from 8 to 12 cm, not counting, of course, its fin. Swordtails live about 4-5 years.

Swordtails - aquarium fish: species

The natural swordtail is usually green, all other multi-colored fish are hybrids bred artificially. Varieties of swordtails:

  • mountain;
  • high altitude;
  • green;
  • Bulgarian white;
  • citric;
  • red;
  • lyretail;
  • red-speckled tiger;
  • Ada;
  • calico;
  • rainbow;
  • the black.

Aquarium for fish

Swordtails do not require any thorough care. This way they are easy to maintain. They do not need a special composition or a certain amount of water, they withstand a good lowering of the temperature (the optimum water temperature for them is 23-25 ​​° C). Water hardness also does not become a problem for these fish - 8-25. Acidity is acceptable within 7-8.

To equip an aquarium, you first need to figure out what shape it will be. It is better to take a rectangular aquarium without any decorations, which only interfere.

As for the volume, then for two representatives of this species or fish of similar size, an average of 8–10 liters of water is needed, that is, 10–15 individuals per capacity of 50 liters.

Install the aquarium should be closer to the window, because the light is needed and the fish themselves, and plants. But putting it on the windowsill is a bad idea, because the sun or the heat of the battery will overheat the water and it will bloom.

The surface must be flat, otherwise the walls of the aquarium may burst (if this happened, the article “Repair the aquarium at home” will help to correct the situation).

It is better when there are plants in the tank, then you can not be afraid to leave your pets without food in rare cases. Aquarium plants should be selected as thick as possible so that the fry can hide from more adult individuals. But there should be a space for the free movement of fish. To do this, fit, gloss and glossy cabomba.

At least once a week, it is recommended to replace 20-30% of the aquarium water with clean water, and you can also add sea salt to it.

As the soil for the aquarium, you can take the usual pebbles. Aeration of water is desirable, but not necessary, at a low density of fish population.

As for food, here too the swordtails are universal - any food, live or dry, is suitable for them. It is recommended not to forget about vegetable types of feed, and to use them in addition to algae. For this fit variety of lettuce, spinach or oatmeal.

Having decided to start these fish, you need to remember the so-called hierarchy, and therefore it is better to place more females in one aquarium. There will be enough males and a few, preferably 3-4, so that between them there is no particular competition.

You should always cover the aquarium with something from above, as the swordtails are very nimble and like to jump out of it.

Aquarium fish swordtails: compatibility with other species

These are, in general, fairly calm fish; they only sort out relationships with each other, so you can keep them in the same container with other species. The only thing that they can aggressively treat smaller fish.

Barbs, cockerels, discus, tetra, labo, guppy, gourami get along well with swordtails.

Not very successful combination with them are eels and shrimps, but cichlids, goldfish and astronotuses are completely incompatible with swordtails.

Breeding

For mating, the choice of the female falls on the most active and brightly colored male, that is, on the most productive. The more his fin, the better. In females it is an internal fertilization, therefore it brings fry several more times without the participation of the male.

Carrying fry lasts about 40 days, and their number is always different. This number ranges from 150 fry per pregnancy, but sometimes more.

At the time of gestation, the female individual is taken from the rest of the fish and transplanted into a small container of 20 liters. You also need to constantly monitor that after birth, she did not touch the babies, it is better to leave them alone, and return the mother to the aquarium.

Fry quickly form and swim almost immediately and eat well. For the normal development of children need to feed them as often as possible. You can use, for example, artemia, microcores, or shredded tubers.

Each individual develops differently, so from time to time it is necessary to select grown-up fish from still small ones and replant them separately. Once fish reach 4-5 months, they can be considered adults and are capable of breeding.

Diseases

Before the acquisition is recommended to check the fish for infections. Need to pay close attention to the rash, fluff or sores. If something like this is present on the body of the fish, then it is sick.

Even with full confidence in the purchase of healthy swordtails, just in case, they should be left for 10-15 minutes in a container with salt water, and then transplanted into an aquarium.

With a clear disease of the fish, for example, the appearance of white fluff, it is placed first in a salted bath, then a weak solution of methylene blue is made and the swordtail is kept in it for 2-3 days. The temperature of this fluid must be at least 24 ° C. Tripapaflavin and biomitsin help in infections and diseases of the gills.

It is interesting and very exciting to keep and breed the Swordsmen. For example, you can cross fish of different breeds and get unique fry with new coloring or fins. And even a child can cope with elementary ways of caring for them.

Video on how to keep the Sword in the aquarium:

Neon fish: content, compatibility, reproduction, species, photo-video review



Neon content, compatibility, reproduction, species, photo-video review Neons are one of the most popular aquarium fish. These small shiny fish have long won the hearts of aquarists and have taken their deserved place among such mini-fish like guppies, swordtails and tetras.
Neon received such recognition due to its unpretentiousness, compactness and of course due to the neon coloring of the body.

Latin name: Paracheirodon

Order, family: carp-shaped, haracin
(on Lat. Characidae).
Comfortable water temperature: 18-24 ° C
(for manufacturers up to 22 ° C)
"Acidity" Ph:
5,5 - 8°.
(for future manufacturers pH up to 6.8 °)
Stiffness dH:5-20° .
(for future manufacturers - dH to 10 °)
Aggressiveness: not aggressive 0%.
The complexity of the content: easy

Neon Compatibility: non-aggressive, peaceful fish (neons, tetras, swordtails, petsyli, ornatus, pulchera, lanterns).
Not compatible: Neon can not be kept with large, aggressive fish: tsikhly, barbs, large catfish, goldfish, Labe, gourami.
How many live: The life of neon depends directly on the temperature of the aquarium water in which they are contained: 18 ° C - 4 years, 22 ° C - 3 years, 27 ° C - 1.5 years. As can be seen with increasing temperature, the biorhythm of life of neons also increases. That is why they, unlike many other aquarium fish, can and should even be kept in “cool” water. Find out how much other fish live IN THIS ARTICLE!
Minimum Neon Aquarium: from 10 liters, in such an aquarium you can put 4 neons. Neonchiki are schooling fish and therefore it is recommended to keep them in larger aquariums. For information on how much neon can be kept in the X aquarium, see HERE (at the bottom of the article there are links to aquariums of all volumes).

Requirements for care and conditions of neon

- neon necessarily need aeration and filtration, weekly water changes up to 1/3 of the volume of aquarium water.
- it is not necessary to cover the aquarium, although the fish are mobile, they do not jump out of the pond.
- lighting should be moderate. The aquarium is equipped with shading areas, which is achieved with the help of thickets of living plants, as well as with the help of floating plants.
- registration of an aquarium, for your taste and color: stones, grottoes, snags, other shelters. In the aquarium must be provided an open space for swimming.
Feeding and dieting neon: In principle, the fish are omnivores and are not whimsical to feed. We are happy to eat dry, live food and substitutes. But, like many aquarium fish, neons love live food: bloodworms, Artemia, choke, Cyclops, Daphnia. Neon food is taken from the surface of the water or in its thickness. Food that has fallen to the bottom may remain intact. Therefore, the fish should be fed in portions, so that the feed does not have time to fall to the bottom.

Feeding any aquarium fish should be correct: balanced, varied. This fundamental rule is the key to successful keeping of any fish, be it guppies or astronotuses. Article "How and how much to feed aquarium fish" talks in detail about this, it outlines the basic principles of the diet and feeding regime of fish.

In this article, we note the most important thing - feeding fish should not be monotonous; both dry and live food should be included in the diet. In addition, you need to take into account the gastronomic preferences of a particular fish and, depending on this, include in its diet ration either with the highest protein content or vice versa with vegetable ingredients.

Popular and popular feed for fish, of course, are dry food. For example, hourly and everywhere can be found on the aquarium shelves of food company "Tetra" - the leader of the Russian market, in fact, the range of feeds of this company is striking. In the "gastronomic arsenal" of Tetra are included as individual feeds for a certain type of fish: for goldfish, for cichlids, for loricarids, guppies, labyrinths, arovan, discus, etc. Also, Tetra has developed specialized foods, for example, for enhancing color, fortified or for feeding fry. Detailed information on all Tetra feeds, you can find on the official website of the company - here.

It should be noted that when buying any dry food, you should pay attention to the date of its production and shelf life, try not to buy food by weight, and also keep the food in a closed state - this will help avoid the development of pathogenic flora in it.

HISTORY OF NEONS

The homeland and natural habitat of neons are the streams and rivers of South America: Peru, Colombia, Brazil. Rivers - top p. The Amazons, from a certain São Paulo de Olivenza to Iquitos, live in the r. Putumayo and r. Purus do Boca do Tapaua. As you can see, the natural habitat of neon is very distant and mysterious. That is why the chronicle of these fish in the aquarium world is quite young. The starting point of neon as aquarium fish is the year 1935, when Frenchman A. Rabo discovered these neon fish in the waters of the river Putumayo (Eastern Peru).

Discoverer Auguste Rabo He was delighted and surprised by the beauty of the red-blue fish found, which prompted him to bring several individuals to the United States of America and to Old Europe. In a year - 1936 This species of extraordinary fish was studied and described by the American ichthyologist S. Myers. The second homeland of neon is Germany. This is due to the fact that it was the Germans who managed to first dissolve neons in artificial conditions. At that time - it was a sensation, since neither in the United States of America, nor in France did the fish breed in artificial conditions. The German breakthrough in the breeding of neons was caused not so much by the merits of man as by the presence in Germany of very soft water, which neon fish like so much. Description: Neon is a small, nimble fish. In aquarium conditions, males reach sizes up to 3 cm, and females slightly larger - up to 3.5 cm in length.
Neon Color: There are different types of neon and the color of each is different. In general, all neons are united by one thing - a neon strip passing along the whole body, which actually gives a reflection inherent only in these fish. Behavioral features: Neons - peaceful, gregarious, nimble fishes. Fish are great in the aquarium in a group with a large number. Their briskness requires from the aquarium - space, which is so necessary for maneuvers.The corridors (speckled catfish) are considered to be friends and helpers of neons, they do not interfere with the neonas to monitor the purity of the aquarium soil.

Breeding and breeding neon

Initially, I want to say that the reproduction of neons is not very complicated. At least, it does not require special difficult conditions or hormonal injections.

Sexual differences: Males of neons are smaller than females, somewhere about half a centimeter, they are much slimmer than "girls", and their neon side strip has a clear, even shape, without convolutions. In turn, the females are larger than the males, they are more complete "puzatee", the neon strip bends in the middle of the calf. Preparing for spawning: sexual maturation of neons occurs in 6-9 months. For successful breeding "neon parents" initially contain in comfortable conditions, which consist in the presence of a wide aquarium house, in a diverse feeding and comfortable water parameters. Before spawning, males and females are kept separately, fed abundantly with live food for half a month. When living separately, the water temperature is lowered to 19 ° C.
It is believed that the best producers are fish aged 10-12 months. IMPORTANT: strictly observe the recommended parameters of aquarium water and conditions of detention! From the very hard water, the eggs are not fertilized by sperm (the shell does not allow), but from the very bright light - the eggs die! Spawning aquarium arrangement: an aquarium of 40 centimeters in length, the bottom should be without soil, a separator grid should be installed at the bottom, the back and side of the aquarium should be darkened, the substrate should be dark. Water parameters in spawning: level 15 cm, temperature 20-22 ° C, hardness dH up to 2 °, KH 0 °, pH 5.5-6.5 °, lighting only natural. Spawning water is recommended to be disinfected with UV or ozone. Neon spawning: Having prepared an aquarium for spawning, males and females are planted in the afternoon towards the evening in the ratio of 1: 1 or 3 males per 1 female. Usually, fish spawn at dawn the next morning. However, this process may take 3 days. During the spawning period, neons do not feed anything.
Females toss non-sticky eggs at a time from 50 to 200 eggs.
Immediately after spawning my parents, I set them aside, and the spawning dish is darkened (remember the light is destructive for caviar !!!). It is necessary to set aside producers, as they eat fry.
Within four hours after spawning, it is necessary to monitor the roe and, when the eggs appear white, immediately remove them.
The incubation period for neon caviar is approximately 22 hours.

Neon Fry Care

Juveniles of neons begin to swim already on the 4-5 day, until this point the larvae almost without moving and hang in a spawning aquarium.

Malki require mandatory aeration, water temperature 20-22 ° C and daily replacement of 1/10 of the volume of water, the water in the aquarium should be at a level of up to 10 centimeters.
From the moment the fry begin to swim (4-5 days), they must often be fed in portions. As a starter feed, you need to use special feed for young fish. Such food is sold in many pet stores, for example, TETRA MIN Baby and TETRA MIN Junior or SERA MICROGRAN. You can also feed: grinded boiled egg yolk, rotifers and infusoria.

Growing neon fry, should be carefully treated with lighting spawning aquarium. The lighting is gradually increased, 100% - ordinary lighting can be done only after the young become “on their feet”, and this happens by the 1st month of life. Otherwise, the fry will simply lose orientation.

What ill neons

Fish can get virtually all kinds of contagious and non-infectious diseases. Neons, being small and fragile fish, do not tolerate stress (for example, if they are driven by "bad neighbors"), as well as uncomfortable water parameters and the absence of a schooling lifestyle - which, together and separately, can lead to diseases (for example, ichthyophysis - manke) . Have neons and a disease inherent only to them - plistophorosis or else it is called "neon disease". This infection manifests itself in the form of fading areas on the body of fish - in neons, blue and red stripes fade. The disease is in fact not curable!

photo Plistoforoz "Neon disease" photo ichthyophthyriosis "Manka" neon

USEFUL TIPS:

- neon is better to feed once a day and regularly arrange fasting days (once a week), which in turn will contribute to the health of the fish.
- when making out an aquarium for neons, you should use dark tones of the soil and background.
- a sign of bad health or stress in neons is the blanching of their color, they can fade up to complete graying.
- you should carefully use aquarium preparations containing copper - neons do not tolerate it.

All kinds of neon fish

There are still rare, artificially derived neons: Neon voile
Neon orange or orange

Neon blue or ordinary (Paracheirodon innesi)
Neon Blue (Paracheirodonsimulans)
Neon red (Paracheirodonaxelrodi)
Neon green (Kostelo)
Neon black (Hyphessobryconherbertaxelrodi)
Artificially derived:
Neon Gold (Paracheirodoninnesivar.)
Neon diamond or diamond (Paracheirodon innesi diamond), "albino" form of neon

Neon blue or ordinary (Paracheirodon innesi)

Most popular among neons. These neonchikov amazingly bright color. A beautiful turquoise-blue neon strip runs across the top, and the lower half of the body has a rich red color, the back is grayish-brown, all fins are transparent. Differ from fellow elongated, long body shape. Females of blue neon 4 cm, males - 3.5 cm.
More details here: Neon blue or ordinary

Neon blue (Paracheirodon simulans)

Due to the similarity in the name to the blue neon, this kind of neon is lost to aquarists by sight. The progenitors of blue neon are blue and red neon. The fish is distinguished by a long, coy body, the neon strip passes in the middle all over the body. I reach the sizes to 4 cm. More details here:Neon blue

Neon red (Paracheirodon axelrodi)

Areola habitat - the Orinoco River and the Rio Negru. These the neons very similar to blue and only slightly different in color. Along the entire body, there are two continuous bands of blue and red neon. It can reach sizes up to 5.5 centimeters.

Neon green

(church)
The back is colored dark green. Throughout the body is a wide strip of dark color, and in it is a neon turquoise blue strip. It can reach sizes up to 3.5 centimeters.
More details here: Neon green or costello

Neon black (Hyphessobrycon herbertaxelrodi)

These neons have a long slightly flattened body. Throughout the body passing two stripes, narrow silver at the top, and wide black below.
More details here: Black neonNeon gold (Paracheirodon innesi var.)
This is the smallest neon of all representatives. Its maximum size is only 1.5 centimeters in length. Decorated with a golden stripe that stretches throughout the calf.
More details here: Neon goldNeon diamond or diamond (Paracheirodon innesi diamond) These fish have no neon strip at all. The diamond look of neons has only a light color and a reddish tail. Reaches the sizes to 3 centimeters. More details here: Neon diamond or diamond
Neon veil
A very rare and expensive type of neon, with a characteristic voile shape of fins. Reach up to 4 cm. In length. Content options are standard. Cost 5.4 USD. More details here: Neon voile and neon orange
Neon orange or orange


The rarest look! Neon resembles a transparent orange slice. It is the subject of hunting exquisite gourmets of the aquarium world.
Interesting facts about neons
"Neons: a bloody story" As it was already said before, a certain French national, Auguste Rabo, was the first person to become interested in neons. Well, since he was a dashing businessman and was looking for gold in the tropical forests of the Amazon River, he also caught exotic butterflies and collected orchids, again not for idle curiosity, but for further sale - the reflection of neon fish greedily reflected in gold in his insatiable eyes .
Everyone knows that greed and greed do not lead to good because they are included in the list of deadly sins. Rabo paid for it. And it all happened like this:
Auguste Rabo wandered through the Amazon rainforest and picked up the infection - tropical fever. Benefit pumped his local aborigines - Peruvian Indians. Having labeled Rabo in one of the Indian huts, he first saw the neons that were floating in a makeshift dish. It was then that the business idea of ​​Rabo was ripe, as it was making money on these brilliant little fish.
He organized the transportation of fish to the continent, and the poor neonchik was pushed into wooden crates, missed the gaps with resin, and in addition to the fish during transportation, they did not feed anything. However, the neons were tenacious and safely reached the United States of America.
Most of the surviving neon Rabo sent to Germany, and the rest gave fanatic and connoisseur of tropical fish - William Innesi. Remembering the nature of O. Rabo, it should be said that this was done not out of the goodness of his heart, but for the purpose of a complaint - after all, Innes was the publisher of an aquarium magazine and Rabo hoped to publish an article about his mega discovery, with all the ensuing profit consequences ...
The article was published, moreover, Inessi handed over the fish to ichthyologist D. Mayers, who in 1936 published a scientific work describing a new type of fish and named them in honor of Inessi - Paracheirodon innesi.

Reference:
William Thornton Innes (1874 -1969)
- The state of Philadelphia, USA was born, where he graduated from school. Upon graduation, began to work with his father in publishing. In 1917 he published his first book, "On Goldfish". In 1932 founded his famous magazine "Aquarium", which lasted 35 years. In addition, since 1920, Innes has regularly organized aquarium exhibitions. Also in 1932 published the book "Exotic Aquarium Fish", which was regularly reprinted.
George Myers (1938-1970) - US national: ichthyologist, zoologist and herpetologist, was a professor at Stanford University, from 1942 to 1994. - Professor of the National Museum of Brazil in Rio de Janeiro. So began the neon boom! Employees of the largest aquarium companies have ousted Auguste Raboh, generously and regularly paying him decent sums for the supply of neons. Aquarium dealers hoped to multiply them and thereby return the money spent on Rabo. Yes, it was not there, all the swept up neon caviar died for unknown reasons.
In turn, Rabo, realizing the benefits of his monopoly position, strictly kept the secret of the neon's habitat and secretly left for Amazon for a new batch of fish. This situation lasted for three years until spies of aquarium companies traced Rabo by the Ucayali River, where he was killed. A year later, the delivery of neon fish was arranged without the participation of the deceased.
Neons, what else ?! - Neon is called the initiators of aquarium chemistry. This is due to the fact that for their breeding and obtaining the “desired soft, spawning water” aquarists had to carefully study the hydrochemistry of water, because of which the aquarium case went up to an even higher level.
- Caviar and young neon catastrophically afraid of lighting, from which they inevitably die. Such a malicious joke is played with them by the neon genetic program, which allows the fish to develop only in the twilight, as it happens in the tropical environment of the Amazon River.
- Neons have scales, but under it the skin, which consists of special pigment cells - chromatophore. Actually, they produce from the blood the neon-metallic color of the fish.
- Fish do not emit light, it is only a reflection and refraction of the incident rays of light.
- Not only neons, but also many other inhabitants of the aquarium world can glow with neon. For example, neon goby oceanops (Elacatinus oceanops), the size of which is comparable to neon and is 5 cm.


in the photo is a neon bull - Many lovers of the aquarium world are wondering, why does neonam need such an eye-catching color, is it very dangerous? Until now, there is no scientific explanation for this color of fish. There is only an assumption that they need it to attract a partner in the mating season, as well as to confuse the predator, confusing it when the flock of neons crumbles. Recommended neon literature:
1.Kochetov S. "Neons and small haracinids"
2. Kochetov S. "Characteristic in an aquarium: from neons to piranhas"
The author of the book tells about many species of tropical fish, including neon fish and other small species. From the books you will learn how to prepare an aquarium for neons, their conditions of detention, feeding and breeding.

Beautiful photo review of neon fish

Interesting video with neon


Reproduction of goldfish

Pin
Send
Share
Send
Send