How to feed the fish


The secrets of aquarist: how often to feed the fish

The first, and perhaps the main question asked by novice aquarists - how and what to feed the fish. At the initial stage, this question raises great doubts. You can watch as the fish swim around the feeders gathering food, as much as you like, so beginners can overfeed pets, throwing handfuls of food to them all day. But do not forget that aquarium inhabitants can also overeat, which will have a bad effect on health and water.

At the beginning of the conversation it may seem that this question is easy and unambiguous, in fact, everything is much more complicated. If you want to become a real aquarist, and not the unfortunate host, who once a day throws flakes to their pets, you will have to thoroughly study the issue of feeding the aquarium inhabitants and find their individual approach to them. Proper feeding is a pledge of healthy fish that behave actively and beautifully shimmer with the best flowers.

How many times do you need to feed the fish

Practice shows that most fish lovers choose the right feeding tactics. But, sometimes you have to deal with neglected cases when the owners are addicted and overfeed the fish so that they suffer from excess weight and physically can not swim. At the same time, the excess feed begins to rot, forming a real green swamp with all the ensuing consequences. And this is not surprising. After all, there is no one universal algorithm for feeding all types of fish, so the question is how, what and how much to feed the fish becomes critical.

A beginner aquarist is misled by the fish themselves. They begin to swim at the trough and look lonely into the front glass, as if asking for some more food. However, it should be realized that most fish will continue to beg for food even in moments of overeating, such is their nature. This is especially true for cyclides.

The first and basic rule - limit feeding to 1-2 times per day. This rule applies to adult fish. Fry and teens are fed more frequently. The ideal is a portion that is eaten in the first 3-4 minutes. The norm is observed in the event that no food does not have time to touch the bottom. The exceptions are catfish and fish that feed from the bottom. For them, it is better to use a special feed. Of course, it is impossible to forbid catfish and other herbivores to eat plants and algae, but this is a natural process that will not make them worse. If you are afraid that the fish do not get enough food, then follow their condition for a week.

It is very important to observe the portions and not to overfeed pets. A well-running aquarium has its own microclimate, so excess food can cause imbalance. Remains of feed fall to the bottom and start the process of rotting, which spoils the aqua and causes the formation of harmful algae. In addition, ammonia and nitrates increase in water, which adversely affects all residents.

If you periodically suffer from dirty water, the presence of algae and fish diseases, think about how often you feed the fish and how much food you give them.

The main types of feed

If at intervals it became clear, then with what to give them, not really. Aquarists use four types of feed:

  1. Live food;
  2. Branded;
  3. Vegetable;
  4. Frozen.

Ideal if you will combine all types of feed. In this case, your fish will be healthy and will give you an aesthetic pleasure playing its colors. It is not excluded that fish will eat only vegetable or only protein food, it all depends on the breed of aquarium inhabitants. In nature, someone chooses a vegetarian lifestyle, but someone does not mind to eat their own kind. But if you disassemble most of the fish, it is better to use a mix of several feeds. Purchased branded food can be used as the main food, regularly please fish with live food and sometimes give vegetable food.

If you decide to go under this scheme, then pay great attention to the choice of branded feed. It is better to give preference to well-known brands that have been on the market for more than one year and are tested by experienced aquarists. This food is suitable for almost all fish. It is balanced, it contains the necessary vitamins and trace elements. You can find it in any pet store. Do not confuse branded feed with dry. Food consisting of dried daphnia, cyclops or gammarus is not the best food for the daily diet of your fish. It is not desirable to feed with such food, because it is deficient in nutrients, it is poorly absorbed and, among other things, is an allergen for humans.

Food live food - the most preferred option. The fish should be given regularly as an additional feeding every other day. Like people, aquarium residents love a variety of foods, so try to alternate food as much as possible. The most common are the chimneyweed, bloodworm and coretil. The only, but very significant disadvantage is that this type of food is most often mined in its natural environment, which means that it is possible to bring the infection into your water body. It is best to freeze it before feeding fish. This method kills a number of harmful bacteria.

Featuring an alternative to live food - frozen. Agree, not everyone can be measured with the settlement in the fridge of live worms. For such there is an alternative - frozen worms. They are easy to dose, they are stored for a long time, contain a full set of vitamins. If you carefully study the pet stores, you can find miksovannyh species, where in one pack will be all three popular types of worms.

Vegetable food is an integral part of fish life in the natural environment. Most fish will have to try and cook green food. Of course, feeding predators with grass is stupid, but the rest will gladly enjoy the greenery suitable for them. It is difficult to give general recommendations, since different fish prefer different feeds. There are several options for plant foods:

  • Pills;
  • Flakes;
  • Branded;
  • Natural.

To natural can be attributed cucumber, zucchini or cabbage. Such feeding will allow you to enjoy your clean aquarium with healthy and beautiful fish. With proper feeding, the lifespan of the fish increases.

How and how much to feed the fish


One of the most important question for any living thing on the Planet is the question of food. Alas, for some reason, in most cases, with respect to aquarium fish, people forget about it and believe that having filled them with a pinch of daphnia or other food, this will be quite enough for their normal existence. However, it is not!

The diet of any pet should be varied and correct. For example, people buy kittens and dogs for dry food, meat, chicken and milk with sour cream. Moreover, they give vitamins and other supplements. The same should be the aquarium pets. Their diet should be balanced. A beginner aquarist should not be afraid of "scary words": live food, freezing, live dust. No need to think that all this needs to get, grind and cook. Everything is much easier than it seems! And in this I will try to convince you.

Various feeding fish - the key to success

All aquarium fish can be divided into: carnivorous, herbivorous and omnivorous. This gradation of fish can be further broken down into: phytophages, limnofagof, malakofagi, ichthyophages, parasitic ..., but the essence of the gradation remains the same, so we will not focus on this.
Most aquarium fish are omnivorous. That is, their diet should include both vegetable and "meat" - protein food. From this statement we can make a logical conclusion that feeding the fish with one type of food will not bring anything to good. Not getting enough of the necessary nutrients the fish become sluggish, their immunity decreases, the body becomes unable to resist the pathogenic flora, the fish get sick and die. A very good example is the research of ichthyologists, who have established that even unpretentious, viviparous guppies stop giving birth with regular and monotonous feeding them only with dry food.
Here is the table, the content of components in the feed for different groups of fish:

Group of fish









more than 45%







you need to read and study the literature about your fish. Find out their taste preferences and behavioral characteristics.
Having repulsed from the received information, it is necessary to select the appropriate dry feed, which can be divided into groups:



Flakes, plates (for feeding fish floating on the surface and in the water column)


Pellets (for larger fish)

animals (protein)

Tablets (sinking food for catfish and other bottom fish)


There are other specialized fish food that are sold to pet stores, for example, to improve the color of fish or special food for a certain type of fish, for example, "Discus menu".
Based on my own experience, I want to advise you to take several types of feed at once and mix them in one can. This is due to the fact that aquariums usually contain different types of fish that require different feeding. Mixing dry food of the same form, we get a kind of mix that is suitable for all fish.
When purchasing feed, you should also pay attention to the shelf life and packing density of the feed. This should be done due to the fact that over time, dry food loses its properties, and if packaging is violated (storage conditions), pathogenic flora will generally form in the food. Also, one should give preference to feeds of well-known trademarks, for example, TM Sera or Tetra.
SecondlyWhen feeding aquarium fish you should not forget about vitamins, which are used as an additive to feed.
Vitamin A - necessary for cell growth, especially for fry and juveniles. Lack of this vitamin leads to slow growth and curvature of the back and fins. Also, vitamin A reduces stress.
Vitamin D3 - participates in the development of the skeletal system.
Vitamin E - necessary for the reproductive system of fish. Vitamins A and E are used together because they are ineffective without each other.
Vitamins of group B (B1 - thiamine, B2 - riboflavin, B12) - normalize fish metabolism.
Vitamin C (ascorbic acid) - forms teeth and bones, is involved in metabolism.
Vitamin H (biotin) - needed for cell development.
Vitamin M - lack of folic acid is expressed in the darkening of the color of the fish, they become sluggish.
Vitamin K - needed for the circulatory system.
Choline - needed for normal growth, as well as regulates the sugar content in the blood.
As a recommendation, you can recommend the following products:
Sera fishtamin
- emulsified multi-vitamin preparation for strengthening fish during and after diseases, after settling in a new aquarium, for breeding and for enriching the feed for fry with vitamins. sera fishtamin is also suitable for strengthening pond fish before and after hibernation.
It can be added directly to the aquarium water. However, it is better to add 6-7 drops to 1 fish in the feed a few minutes before feeding.
1. During the illness and after recovery of the fish, fishtamine should be added daily directly to the aquarium at the rate of: 6-7 drops per 50 liters of water. Aquarium lighting is desirable to turn off.
2. After possible stresses, such as transportation, placing fish in a crowded aquarium or in cases when incompatible types of fish are in the same aquarium, as well as with each water change, you need to add Fishtamin in the amount of 4-6 drops to feed. Fishtamine is added directly to the feed, which quickly absorbs the drug and after a short period of time can be used to feed your fish.
Fishtamine can be added directly to the aquarium at the rate of: 6-7 drops per 50 liters of water. It is advisable to turn off the aquarium lighting.
3. After relocating new fish to the aquarium, you need to quickly add Fishtamine directly to the aquarium from the calculation: 6-7 drops per 50 liters of water.
4. In order to breed, it is necessary to add Fishtamine before the spawning process begins and within ten days after the process starts directly to the fish feed at the rate of: 4-6 drops per 50 liters of water. It is necessary to wait some time until the drug is absorbed into the feed and then feed.
5. To improve the growth of fry, it is necessary to add Fishtamine directly to Micron, Micropan, Micrograin or Artemia solution once every two days, mix quickly and give enriched feed to the young fish. The daily dose of fishtamine can vary from one to five drops and depends on the amount of feed and the number of fry.
6. To enrich the frozen live feed with vitamins, immediately before feeding, add Fishtamine to feed at the rate of: three to four drops for each portion of feed after it is thawed. It is necessary to wait some time until the drug is absorbed into the feed and then feed.
7. To create optimal conditions for the existence of pond fish in late autumn, as long as the fish take food, and also in early spring, as soon as the fish begin to take food; for prophylaxis, as well as during the treatment of fish from viral diseases, fishtamine should be added daily for three weeks in a volume of 10-12 drops directly to the feed of pond fish. It is necessary to wait some time until the drug is absorbed into the feed and then feed.
Content of additives per 1 ml:
Vitamin A 500 I.E.
Vitamin B1 2.00 mg
Vitamin B2 2.00 mg
Vitamin B6 2.00 mg
Vitamin B12 2.00 mcg
Vitamin C 55.00 mg
Vitamin D3 100 I.E.
Vitamin E 5.00 mg
Vitamin K3 1.00 mg
Nicotinic acid 10.00 mg
Calcium Pantothenate 5.00 mg
Folic acid 0.50 mg
Tetra vital - provides the fish with vital energy and health, as well as a natural color.
Tetra Vital contains essential vitamins, minerals and trace elements characteristic of the natural habitat. Their content in the aquarium decreases with time, and tap water is not able to compensate for the loss. Thanks to Tetra Vital, you can create an almost identical natural habitat for fish, where they will be provided with comfortable conditions and a brighter color.
- Natural B vitamins are used to increase the vitality of fish and combat stress
- Magnesium provides good health and promotes healthy growth.
- Panthenol cares for fish mucous membranes
- Iodine contributes to the preparation of fish for spawning, as well as successful spawning.
- Vital trace elements help to avoid problems associated with their deficiency
- Promotes the growth of plants and microorganisms
- Suitable for any freshwater aquariums
To enhance the action of Tetra Vital, use Tetra AquaSafe.
Instructions for use. Shake well before use. Add 5 ml of Tetra Vital to 10 liters of aquarium water every 4 weeks. In case of severe stress, it is recommended to double the dose.
Thirdly, the most important trick! This use of live and frozen feed.
Live food is a variety of mosquito larvae, small crustaceans and all kinds of worms that are used in feeding fish. The most popular of them are: bloodworm, artemia, sap, daphnia, tubule, rotifers, gammarus.

Live food is the most useful and natural food for fish, providing them with all the necessary microelements. Such feed is recommended to be used in conjunction with other types of feed and given 2-3 times a week.
The composition of some organisms used as live food Nowadays, especially in megacities and large cities, it is difficult to find high-quality live food for fish. It is also worth noting that, along with live food, it is possible to bring "contagion" into the aquarium - pathogenic bacteria, fungi and viruses. Therefore, you should always be careful with live food, it is better to grow it yourself and rinse thoroughly before serving. Knowing that many aquarists, especially the fair sex, do not like and are even afraid to mess with worms and larvae, I can recommend an interesting and even fascinating way of extracting live food Sera artemia-mix - Ready mix for growing Nauplii Artemia. Nauplii (cubs) of brine shrimp (Artemia) is a great delicacy for fry of all species of fish. Adult fish and many invertebrates also greedily eat nauplii and adult shrimps. Artemia-mix is ​​a ready-to-use product. All you have to do is pour the contents of the bag into 500 ml of water and air it. With this set, even people who have no experience in breeding live food can grow nauplii. The biological value of nauplii becomes even higher, due to the use of sea salt rich in minerals in sera Artemia-mix. Artemia eggs from the great salt lakes of the state of Utah (USA) are used in the sera Artemia-mix - especially high quality.
Вот подробное видео, как вырастить науплии
Ну, для тех, кто вообще, вообще не хочет возиться с живым кормом, есть уже готовая заморозка живого корма. Заморозка для рыб - это готовый к использованию, замороженный и расфасованный живой корм. Прелесть его заключается в том, что не нужно ничего "добывать", понадобится лишь достать кубик замороженного корма и кинуть его в кормушку рыб.
+ such feed, manufacturers process it and monitor its purity. The probability to bring "contagion" in the aquarium is small.
- as a result of processing, the beneficial properties of the feed are lost.
Note: Before serving, it is desirable to freeze it to thaw (10-15 min.)
And finally, the fourth trick - the food from our table. Here, look, please, the video posted by our moderator, Esta, about how her cichlids eat a leaf of lettuce.
Charming is not true! Many fish, especially cichlids, respect the greens: lettuce, spinach, scalded cabbage leaves, cucumber, and even carrots. Many people know that keeping African cichlids with live aquarium plants is almost impossible. Nevertheless, they need plant food. And such a leaf of lettuce, once or twice a week, is an excellent way out for tsikhlovykh.
Also, by the example of a user of our site Qper, it is worth highlighting the question of protein mixes made by yourself. For his precious and beloved cichlids, he cooks and gives the following mince once a week:
Here is such an appetizing pate! There are a lot of similar recipes and, if you wish, you can easily find them on the Internet. The main thing is that in this way you can and should feed the fish.
You can make only one important remark about feeding fish like mince - you should try to exclude (minimize) the meat of warm-blooded animals from them. The food system of fish is not able to digest such meat, because of which it can develop pathogenic flora and as a result of the disease. Minced meat containing warm-blooded animals should be given rarely as a delicacy.

How many times and how often to feed the fish?

Based on the fact that feeding fish should be balanced and diverse, it is possible to derive an approximate component of the amount of feed needed for fish.
If we talk about one-time feeding, then any food (dry or live) should be eaten by fish in 3-5 minutes. After this time, the feed should not be in the aquarium, and the more he should not fall for hours at the bottom.
Per day you can feed the fish 1-2 times. I personally feed once, because I think that undernourishment is better than overfeeding. Feeding is preferably carried out either in the morning, after 15 minutes. after turning on the aquarium lighting and in the evening for 3-4 hours before bedtime. If there are “night residents” in the aquarium, as a rule, these are bottom catfish (bag-tabernacles, agamixes, etc.), then for them the food is thrown “at dusk”, i.e. when the light is turned off and all the "day" fish have gone to bed.
How much to feed the fish a week? Here, too, everything is conditional and individual. I offer an example of my feeding scheme:
Monday - dry food 1, once a day;
Tuesday - dry food 2, once a day;
Wednesday - live food, or bloodworm or artemia;
Thursday - dry food 1, twice a day;
Friday - dry food 2, twice a day;
Saturday - live food + duckweed;
Sunday - fasting day;
As you can see, feeding fish is quite diverse. Firstly, various mixtures of dry feed are used, secondly, dry food alternates with live ones, and plant food is given once a week.
And necessarily, once a week, a fasting day is arranged, i.e. when fish are not fed at all. Such a day, you need to arrange necessarily, it is harmless and even very useful for the health of fish and the aquarium as a whole.
Hope the article was helpful for you! Of course, you will not immediately cover all the issues in one article, so we will be glad to talk with you on the forums.

How to feed aquarium fish?

How to feed aquarium fish? Dear reader, this article is generalized. A more complete article on this question - How and how much to feed the fish

The answers to this question are quite simple, but at the same time they have an individual character - that is, they depend on the specific type of aquarium fish, on the volume of the aquarium, and other nuances!

Answering the question - HOW TO FEED FISH? You can generally say that you need to feed the pets so that after 2-3 minutes the abandoned feed will be eaten. In covering this issue, it should be noted that it is better to feed the fish rather than overfeed. Do not feed the fish much and often. Make sure that this situation does not work out when - you fed the fish, then the spouse, and then also the children!

Moreover, starvation of the fish is a diet, it brings only benefit to the fish! Arrange for the fish once a month fasting days - do not feed the fish for 2 days. Following these recommendations, you will get rid of the risk of pet diseases of gastrointestinal diseases and only improve their health!

The second point that should be covered on the issue - HOW TO FEED FISH! Food - kormeshka for fish should be balanced and diverse, in addition, it must meet the individual needs of a specific type of fish swimming in your "aquarium". Often, many make a big mistake and feed the fish with one type of feed (for example, dry)! Such a policy of keeping fish and such feeding leads in time to the question - HOW TO HOW TO TREAT A FISH? Food should be: quality, diverse. At the same time, no one tells you that you need to feed the fish delicacies. But to combine, for example, dry and frozen food - it is possible, it is not so expensive!

In addition, different fish prefer different food, some, for example, well, really need vegetable food! Taking into account such features, select the appropriate feed, balance it.

WHEN TO FEED FISH? This question is also individual for a particular type of fish. For example, the majority of aquarium catfish are nocturnal, and therefore it is desirable to feed them in a dark time drain.

But since most fish are diurnal, it is better to feed them during the daytime - in the morning or at lunch.


I feed mine once a day, in the morning. However, many recommend feeding aquarium fish 2 twice a day. Actually I do not see anything wrong with that. The main thing is to follow the rule, the food should be eaten in 2-3 minutes.


A lot of important issue of feed for aquarium fish is the question of its quality. Certainly you can “get aquarium food” in the old manner - to hunt ponds or tormented with bloodworms. You can buy feed in bird markets! However, no one will give you guarantees! Moreover, such feed is dangerous to the health of your pets.

To protect yourself from problems, and the aquarium from infection - it is recommended to buy food only in the branded pet shops of your city. It should look at the label and the date of production.

Internet pet-shops have gained wide popularity in our time: resources involved in the sale of aquariums, aquarium equipment, fish feed and other aquarium preparations. Without leaving your home, you can select and order the necessary products. In addition, prices in online stores are much lower than the retail price of goods.

As a recommendation, I suggest you pay attention

on the time-tested online pet store:

In the section "Feed and treats for fish" you can watch, read and order any aquarium feed of all known
foreign and domestic firms

"Feed and treats for fish"
In addition, in the pet store you will find other aquarium products:
filters, aeration, lamps, aquariums, inventory.
As well as many other products: for cats, dogs and rodents

How and how much to feed the fish

FOOD FOR AQUARIUM FISH: dry food for fish, frozen food for fish, live food for fish, homemade food for fish

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Live feed for aquarium fish

Shelves of pet shops are full of bright packs and jars of flakes, granules and sinking dry food tablets, which are selected for each type of fish, balanced in composition and able to provide the inhabitants of aquariums with everything necessary for life. But why then does the fish live so much at the sight of the bloodworm or the trumpet? And how much live food is necessary for fish?

Live food in aquarium: advantages and disadvantages

In nature, the diet of fish is quite diverse. In almost all species, it includes small invertebrates in one or another quantity, and for predators, live food is the main food. And if in the conditions of an aquarium we want to grow large healthy specimens that can later produce offspring, it is unlikely to be able to do without live food. This is especially true of large predatory fish, for example, cichlids.

The main advantages of live food are a large amount of high-grade protein that is easily digested by fish, as well as the presence of intact vitamins in an accessible, natural form.

In addition, the fact that he is alive and moving is important - it allows the fish to maintain its natural hunting reflexes. And for fry or some predatory fish and amphibians, the presence of live food is vital, since they perceive only moving objects as food. Another advantage of live food - if used properly, it spoils the water much less than dry. But live food has a significant disadvantage - it can contain toxins and harmful substances that fish can poison, and also be a carrier of various parasitic or infectious diseases, especially if it was collected in polluted water bodies within the city limits. The most common types of live food are mosquito larvae - coreta and bloodworm, worms - most often tubule and small crustaceans - artemia, daphnia and others.


Bloodworm, or in common "raspberry" - the larvae of the mosquito-jerky (their other name is the mosquito-bells), having a bright red color and size from 5 to 25 mm. They live in silt and bottom sediments of slow-flowing rivers, ponds and standing marshy lakes, feed on dead organic matter. Distinguish between large (lake) and small (river) bloodworms, these are the larvae of different species of mosquitoes.

Bloodworm is one of the most nutritious and valuable types of live food, its protein content is about 60%. Many aquarists say that no fish grows and develops so well on bloodworms in any kind of feed. However, when buying moth need to be careful.

Choosing moth

First of all it is necessary to pay attention to its color: the bloodworm for aquarium fish should be bright red and glossy. The pink or light orange bloodworm is immature larvae, they do not have enough hemoglobin in the hemolymph, so they are inactive, not too nutritious and also quickly die.

If the bloodworm, on the contrary, is very dark, burgundy or cherry in color, then it is the old bloodworm, stale, it will not be stored for a long time, and it is likely to poison them with fish.

Too light, carrot or dark color and uneven size (range from 1-2 to 7 mm) may indicate that bloodworm is estuary, that is, it was collected in saline bays (usually in the south of Russia and Ukraine). Such a crank has a very thick chitinous cover, which reduces its nutritional value, besides there is evidence of a high content of harmful substances in it.

Transporting it to other regions for sale for a long time and storing it in conditions that are often far from optimal, and even questions its suitability for feeding fish.

In addition to color, with the purchase should look at the mobility of the larvae. A fresh, high-quality bloodworm in response to an external impact is actively rolled up into rings.


The purchased bloodworm is immediately washed several times in running water, draining all the dregs and debris, removing the dead larvae, if they exist. After that, in small portions loosely wrapped in moistened cloth and placed in a shallow dish in a refrigerator, then washed twice a day.

Another simple and interesting folk way of storing a moth is in a fabric bag in a toilet bowl. Cold running water ensures its constant rinsing and, accordingly, long storage. After the purchase of the bloodworm, it is recommended that it be kept for 3-4 days so that its intestines become free from the organics eaten by it in freedom. After that they can feed the fish.

Feeding the moth

When feeding a live moth, it is important to fulfill two conditions:

  • Only live, active larvae can enter the aquarium, as dead fish can be poisoned;
  • bloodworm should not be on the ground - it is buried there, becoming inaccessible to fish, then dies and contributes to the rotting of the soil.

In order to achieve this, moths are best given to fish through special feeders with holes. Only live larvae crawl through these holes into the water. In addition, since the bloodworm enters the water slowly from this trough, the fish grab it as soon as it emerges from the holes, still near the surface, and it does not fall to the ground.

If it is necessary to feed with a moth of bottom fish, then a part of the bottom is cleared of soil and it is monitored to keep the bloodworm only in this cleared area. It is not recommended to cut the bloodworm, because in this case the content flows out of it, contaminating the water and leaving only the useless chitinous shell.


Colorless mosquito larva from the family of the present or blood-sucking (sometimes they separate a separate family of thick-nosed mosquitoes). It is on sale less often than bloodworms. It is safer in terms of the transmission of infectious diseases and harmful substances, since it lives in the column and near the surface of the water, rarely sinks to the bottom, and is a predator. Suitable for feeding fish that feed in the upper layers of water.

Koretra is a low-calorie feed, its protein content is about 40% of its dry weight (less than that of a bloodworm and a pipe worker), and it is not recommended to feed the fish alone. Since the coretre is a predator, it should not be allowed into the aquarium with fry and fledgling fishes.

Also, when feeding with koretra, one should keep in mind that some fish, who are not used to this kind of food, do not distinguish these transparent creatures in the water and do not eat them. However, nothing terrible is that it will not be eaten, no - the corelet does not sink to the bottom, does not die there and does not spoil the water. The worst thing that can happen to her in warm aquarium water is pupation and transformation into mosquitoes, which, however, do not bite. And the fish eventually learn to catch it.

Selection and storage

Fresh cortera is mobile, transparent and shiny (without a dull green tint), moreover, it does not have a specific smell.
Store the coretress in the same way as the bloodworm, after thorough washing, wrapping it in a damp cloth and placing it in the refrigerator.

There is one more way: the larvae are dipped into a container with water (a liter of water per two tablespoons of a corret), and this container is already placed in a cool place. Water is completely changed twice a day. In such conditions, the core can be stored for up to three to four weeks.

Tube maker

The representative of the ringed low-chain worms. It lives on the bottom of polluted water bodies, especially often in sewers, places of sewage discharge. Like bloodworms, feeds on dead organic matter.

One of the most nutritious food, contains a large amount of protein and fat. It is simply indispensable when feeding fish with a small stomach volume, but requiring high-calorie food with a high protein content (for example, fry of skates and discus fish), or fish depleted during transportation.

Tubing can be fortified. To do this, 5-7 days after collection, it is soaked in vitamin solutions (A, B1, E) at the rate of 250 mg of vitamins per 100 g of the weight of worms.

With all its virtues, it is one of the most dangerous types of food. Often it is a source of pathogenic bacteria, viruses, protozoan parasites, and simply various toxic substances that may cause fish poisoning.

In addition, due to the high content of fat, constant feeding by a pipe maker is quite dangerous, since it leads to diseases of the internal organs of the fish.

Selection and storage

A healthy, light pink strawberry, squirms actively in the water, and when externally exposed, the lump dramatically decreases. Sometimes, instead of him, pet shops sell his distant relative - a member of the family of earthworms, lumbriculus. It has a rich red color and is an inhabitant of cleaner reservoirs, so the probability of bringing infection into the aquarium with it is much less.

Keep the straws in the fridge in a shallow dish with water so that it doesn’t cover the worms completely. Twice a day they are washed with running water, each time breaking a lump with a stream, discharging polluted water and removing dead individuals.

Before feeding the fish, the strawberry must be kept for at least 5-7 days to clear its intestines.

There is also a method of express cleaning: it is placed in a bowl without water and poured there 2 tablespoons of kefir. During the day, all the kefir is eaten, displacing organic matter from the intestines of the tubule. The method is interesting, but relying on it completely, most likely, is not worth it.

If you want to get a very small live food for feeding fry, this worm can be cut. In addition, there are almost always very small specimens in the clew of the pipe worker - 1-2 mm long. Для их выделения сосуд с трубочником помещается под сильную струю воды, клубок разбивается, черви всплывают, затем крупные начинают тонуть, а мелкие в виде взвеси остаются в верхних слоях воды, откуда их и сливают в другой сосуд.


Daphnia is a branchy freshwater crustacean found in large numbers in the warm season in almost all water bodies, the peak of its population falls on the period of water flowering. It feeds on algae, bacteria and other microorganisms.

In turn, it serves as an excellent food for fish in both natural conditions and in an aquarium. Especially well suited for feeding fry. The protein content in daphnia is about 50%, the content of vitamins and trace elements is also high.

Harvested in natural waters, so with her in the aquarium, you can bring the parasites and pathogens of many bacterial infections. Daphnia collected in nature are stored in a jar of water in a refrigerator for up to 2 weeks.


Artemia is a small crustacean that lives in saltwater. Adults of Artemia reach the size of 8-10 mm, while in aquariums, nauplii are usually used - just hatched small larvae, which are an excellent first food for fry of many fish.

A huge plus of Artemia - ease of cultivation. All you need is a small vessel with salted water and a compressor. Step-by-step instructions for growing this type of crustacean are easy to find in aquarium literature, and various technology improvements are available on aquarist forums. Home-grown artemia does not carry pathogens and of the above-mentioned live food is probably the only safe.
As for the bloodworm, corretry and tubule - they are definitely not as such, and they must be disinfected before they are fed to the fish.

Disinfection of live food

There are quite a few disinfection schemes. Ozonization is considered the most effective method, but it is difficult to implement at home, although some craftsmen make ozonizers on their own and use them. The available methods for disinfecting moth, tubule, corret are the following:

  • Ichthyofor preparation - 50 drops per 100 ml, soaked for 20-30 minutes;
  • methylene blue - 30-50 drops per 100 ml of water (until dark blue), keep in solution for 10-15 minutes;
  • weak pink solution of potassium permanganate;
  • 2 tablets of metronidazole per 10 liters of water;
  • soak in water with crushed garlic for an hour;
  • liquid 5% piperazine solution for 15-20 minutes as a prevention of helminth infections;
  • 2 times a week for 10 minutes to keep in 5% solution of sea or salt;
  • soak in a solution of trypaflavin (0.1 g per 10 l) for 2-3 days;
  • a solution of furazolidone at a concentration of 1: 25,000;
  • kanamycin 100 mg / l for 1 hour;
  • Erycycline 250 mg / l for 1 hour.

However, the use of any of these schemes and even all of them together does not guarantee complete safety of live food.

Frozen feed

Frozen feed is considered less dangerous. When frozen, many parasites, protozoa, and some (but not all) bacteria die. However, no harmful and toxic chemicals go anywhere. In addition, a crucial role is played by the quality of the feed, which has been frozen. If frozen, for example, stale remnants of unsold moth, who did not bother to pre-wash and disinfect, then this feed may be even more harmful than living.

Serious industrial manufacturers of frozen food guarantee quality raw materials and disinfection carried out, but if transportation and storage are carried out in bad faith, defrosting and repeated freezing is allowed, feeding them fish is harmful and dangerous.

Feed or not feed?

It is necessary to give live food only in those cases when you cannot do without it. Such cases include feeding fry, fish adaptation after a long transportation or after catching in nature, sometimes - preparing the spawners for producers.

All of these situations are usually dealt with by professionals who do not need to be taught how to handle feed. In addition, these people have enough knowledge and skills to deal with the possible negative effects of such feeding.

Novice aquarists are not recommended to use live food, since the risk in this case is greater than the possible benefits.

If you do not want to keep the aquarium solely on dry ration, the diet of predatory fish can be varied, for example, frozen seafood.

And if a decision is made to feed the fish with live crustaceans, worms or larvae, then in this case you will have to work hard. At a minimum, it is necessary to find a good supplier who extracts bloodworms, tubers and daphnia not near the treatment plant, but far from the city, in clean small reservoirs where there is no fish. It is even more reliable to extract them independently, and then to disinfect and freeze them qualitatively.

If there is no possibility and desire to walk through the puddles with a net or if you want to have live, non-frozen food all year round, it is not so difficult to grow it at home from purchased crops or worms and crustaceans found in nature.

We will not dwell on this here in detail; we will only mention that at home it is quite easy to grow and maintain daphnia cultures for a long time, as well as enchitreus and auleforus worms, which are not inferior in nutritional quality to the strawberry. That's when your fish will really thank you.

Food for guppy. What to feed?

If you do not have experience in breeding aquarium fish, but would very much like to get it, then the best choice in the first stages would be one or several pairs of guppies.

This is really amazing fish. On the one hand, they are very unpretentious. They do not need special food and even a spacious aquarium for a comfortable life. Breeding is also distinguished by particular simplicity: the main thing here is to seed the female from the newborn fry in time so that she does not eat it. But with all these advantages, guppies are also amazingly beautiful. The richness of colors, a variety of shapes and sizes - all this makes it easy to choose exactly the kind that can decorate your aquarium. Of course, in order to avoid any problems in the future, you need to find the right guppy food.

However, this problem almost never happens. If for some reason you cannot constantly feed your fish with live food, then it is quite possible to do with a simple dried gammarus - just rub it in your fingers so that the fish can swallow it without choking. And on such forage it is quite possible to grow several generations of guppies.

Of course, with such feed, containing a small amount of proteins and vitamins, the fish will not grow too fast, and the brightness of the colors may fade with time. Therefore, it is desirable at least once a week to feed them with bloodworms or tubers.

Some aquarists ask the question: if there is no desire to feed the fish with dry food, but there is no possibility to buy live food - what to feed the guppy with? This is actually not a problem. In such a situation, you can use products that are almost always in the kitchen - semolina, meat, chicken eggs.

Manka is enough to pour boiling water and let it brew for a couple of minutes, after which you can feed the fish. The hard-boiled egg yolk is pounded and given to the fish. Well, meat frozen in stone is simply carefully scraped with a razor blade and also given to guppies.

Such a variety will perfectly complement the menu of fish, making it even more beautiful.

How to feed a guppy?

Guppies are quite unpretentious fish. They are omnivorous and unpretentious, and even able to withstand a week-long hunger strike. But it is unlikely that in such conditions of keeping the fish they will be pleased with their appearance. In order to get a bright color and healthy offspring of guppies, a balanced diet is even more important than the correct temperature and light conditions.

What is better to feed a guppy?

The basis of the guppy ration should be healthy and high-calorie live food. The most popular living organisms for feeding fish are:

  • small larva moth. When you purchase should pay special attention to their color and activity. A quality bloodworm should not be dark and half-dead;
  • crushed tube worm. To prevent infection in the aquarium infection, feed should be thoroughly washed;
  • daphnia;
  • artemia;
  • Cyclops.

In addition, guppies should be periodically fed with vegetable feed. These can be lettuce, parsley, spinach or seaweed. Greens must be dried, and before feeding scalded boiling water.

Sometimes, as an exception, fish can be lured by dry feed. But this is often not recommended due to the risk of disease.

How many times do you need to feed a guppy?

The frequency of feeding guppies depends on their age. So it is advisable to feed the smallest fish up to one and a half months at least three times a day. On two meals a day you can go after the separation of the fish by gender. And after four months it is enough to feed them once a day.

How and what to feed guppy fry?

The way guppies in the first 3-5 days of their life depend on how they eat guppies in adulthood. Therefore, the fry should receive proper nutrition. The most suitable food for them is live dust, which contains the necessary vitamins. Dry food can be added to the diet no more than once a week. At the same time in the first days of life in the aquarium fry food must be constantly present.

How to feed aquarium fish, if the feed is over?

Mad monkey

nothing now. If you skip a few feedings, nothing happens, fish do not die of hunger, they can starve without harm to health for 2 weeks. if the fish are large, then you can give a piece of meat chicken shrimp mussel but it is better to go to the store for food.

Sergey Frasinyuk

a couple of days of hunger strike will only benefit and in general, arrange unloading and not feed them one day a week. As such, there are no brakes on fish as much as they fill and they will eat. But then there will be problems in the form of overfeeding and obesity

Yury Balashov

How to feed the fish?
It is amazing how many people in the world strictly follow a diet and regularly support their health with vitamins, and at the same time give their fish only ready-made food, and of one kind.
Such food can be compiled on the basis of scientific recommendations and include a huge amount of nutrients, but they are only simple substitutes (and often inferior) of what fish find in natural conditions. Do not think that we are against the finished feed, quite the opposite. However, one thing must be very clear: ready-made food is usually sufficient for normal existence, while live food in frozen or freeze-dried form is absolutely necessary for bringing fish to spawning.
For each type of fish need a certain feed. Let's talk about the basic rules of feeding.
Before feeding, live food should be washed in a net under a tap, and the water temperature should be close to the aquarium one. Bloodworm and tubule can be given in a special feeder with holes in the bottom. Its advantage lies in the fact that living specimens of the food themselves move into the water, but the sluggish and dead remain inside. Dry food is poured into a feed ring placed on the surface of the water. Both types of feeders are available in pet stores.
The size of the feed should match the size of the fish. If they do not cope with food or chew it, spit it out, it means that it is unsuitable. The size of feed for fry should be approximately equal to the size of their eyes. Bloodworm, tubule and enhitreya can be given cut into small pieces. Some aquarists do not feed a pipemaker with valuable fish for fear of poisoning.
Feed quality is of the utmost importance. Therefore, dry food should be really dry, and not sticking together, living organisms to be active. Frozen feed should be fed immediately after thawing.
The amount of food needed by the fish is determined by amateurs on the basis of their own observations. Live food is best given in small portions. Feed should be given in small portions several times a day. One-time feeding of a triple in volume portion does not equal three more modest feedings. Initially, the fish pounce on him, then their activity drops markedly and, therefore, you can stop feeding. If the dry food placed in the feed ring is not eaten within 5 minutes, the remnants should be removed with a net and reduced further. You should always remember that it is better not to feed than to overfeed the fish, otherwise they will be worse painted, become lethargic, stop spawning, their lifespan will noticeably decrease. Fish should be given a variety of food, constantly alternating it.
Adult fish should be fed 1 - 2 times a day, at the earliest one hour after turning on the light and at the latest one hour before turning it off. It is necessary to ensure that everything is eaten completely within 15 to 20 minutes. The daily ration should be 5% by weight of the fish. The feeding place should be permanent. Residues of not eaten feed should be removed, this is especially important when using stale feed, as they can cause such unpleasant phenomena as turbidity of water, soil rot, the appearance of foul-smelling algae. Therefore, they need to be immediately assembled with a hose. Once a week you need to arrange a hungry day. Fry should be fed as often as possible.
Here are six of the most important rules to follow when feeding aquarium fish:
1. When feeding, be guided by the requirements of the fish, and not by your own desires.
2. It is desirable to feed (better, of course, live) a variety of feed, making the most of the possibilities of each season. Live food in its raw form is more beneficial than boiled. Even the best feed is no good if it does not alternate with other feed.
3. Do not feed too plentifully! Remains of feed spoil the water. In aquariums, fish are more likely to die from obesity than from malnutrition ...