Choosing water for the aquarium
There is no absolutely pure water in the world, it is mined in laboratories using step-by-step distillation. Water from a water supply system or natural source always contains impurities of various substances that play an important role in the ecosystem. Considering that many modern people keep fish at home, everyone wants to use the highest quality water for them. But what should be the water so that it can fill the home aquarium?
What you need to know about spring water
For a long time it was believed that spring water, recruited from a crystal clear stream, is best suited for ornamental freshwater fish. Perfectly clean, transparent, odorless and dirt free - that's exactly the kind of tank you can fill! It turned out that typing this is not always safe. Its difference from tap water is high rigidity. Even the soap in it is difficult to dissolve, what can we say about fish food. Due to the high content of magnesium and calcium salts, it has a detrimental effect on the health of the fish and their offspring (eggs). Unfortunately, the water from the spring is not recommended to add to an artificial aquarium. Occasionally it is mixed with water to increase rigidity.
Distilled and rainwater
Since the springs have increased hardness, can it be better to pour soft water into the tank - rainwater or distilled water? Again, not always - just mixing it with the plumbing. There are fish that love the environment with softened water, but many freshwater species still prefer medium, neutral water. Such water flows in domestic rivers and lakes - you can pour it purified into the aquarium, filling it with not all the space.
Watch the video on how to change the water in the aquarium.
What habitat most love aquarium fish
What water is needed for an aquarium? Combining water from different sources, it is impossible to achieve the ideal parameters. How many fish, so many requests. Some fish can live in the melt water of mountain lakes, others - in the brown marsh. In the first case, the water is very hard, in the second - soft. Fish have to settle in a different environment. It turns out that some fish are orderlies who love rotten water, others do not tolerate such parameters. Rotten environment is detrimental due to humic acids. Many freshwater biotopes of our country have pH neutral water, medium acidity, low alkalinity. For most aquarium fish, it is suitable.
Aquarium water for unpretentious fish
Water that must be prepared for not very capricious ornamental fish requires preliminary preparation. In the general aquarium it is necessary to fill in soft (sometimes medium hard) pH-neutral water. This can be plain tap water. In it, live-off and viviparous fish, which perfectly adapt to different conditions, take root well.
See how to change the water and care for the aquarium.
The degree of hardness can be measured using litmus paper, the temperature of the water - with a thermometer. Water of high degree of hardness is recommended to be mixed with soft rainwater (filtered) or distilled. Also, water from clean, melting snow or ice. The listed types of water can be collected in a clean container only after prolonged precipitation; it is enough to pour 30% soft water into infused water from the tap.
Water from the tap can not be poured immediately. It is better to pour it into a glass, and see if the glass is covered with bubbles, whether a strong smell will emanate. Such water is saturated with compounds of gases that fell into it during filtration at the treatment plant. Having let the fish in such a liquid, the pet's body will instantly become covered with bubbles, which will penetrate into the gills and internal organs. As a result, the fish will die. In addition to gas, chlorine is added to water for disinfection, it will also poison living beings.
To get rid of gases, tap water can be poured into glass containers, and let it settle there for several days (2-3 days). There is another quick way: pour water into enameled ware, bring it to the stove to 60 or 80 degrees, set aside and cool. Boiled water is harmful - it leaves on the walls of dishes scale calcium carbonate and magnesium. Boiled water can be poured into spawning, but in extreme cases. To fill the entire area of the aquarium with boiled water will take a long time. Another nuance - boiled water kills all the useful microflora.
If you do not have water supply (this occurs in our time), you should go to a clean river or lake (where there are no signs "No swimming is prohibited!", Etc.), and take water from there. If it is clean, river fishes (perch, bream, roach) really live and flourish in it, there is a water grid plant, which is a good sign. To destroy parasites, such water is heated in an enamel pot to 80-90 degrees, but not to make boiled water out of it. The parameters it will be different from the liquid from the tap, so think about whether to take such a risk. You can go to another house, and get running water there.
In addition to thawed, spring, rain and distilled water, it is advisable to pour 30% of the water from the old aquarium to the infused liquid from the tap. If he was kept safely, the fish and plants did not hurt there, the water in him was not muddy - this is a find. In the old (residential) aquarium water, whether it has been poured from a tap for a long time, there are many useful microbacteria that will create in the new dwelling the natural biological environment. In a residential aquarium environment contains a number of organic impurities that are very useful for the aquatic environment. They make the water more acidic, do not allow putrefactive and pathogenic bacteria to multiply. If high-quality and proven water is poured into the tank, all its inhabitants can be healthy.
How to run the aquarium for the first time?
It is decided that we will have an aquarium! He has already been selected and purchased, the equipment is waiting for the coolest next to him in beautiful boxes, the bottom is already filled with bright red brilliant, terribly spectacular soil, and there is a ceramic crocodile on it that will blow bubbles. Now we pour water and, while she stands up for an hour or two, let's go to the pet shop and buy the best fish there - those with long fins, and other yellow ones with red dots (whatever they are called? However, it doesn't matter, the main thing is beautiful) ...
Stop! No matter how commendable is the desire to join the fascinating world of aquarism, this process should not be forced, otherwise the first experience may be so deplorable that one does not want to continue. Let's tolerate a little more and see what should happen to a glass jar full of water in order for it to become an aquarium.
Aquarium is a balanced biological system in which many living organisms coexist. These are not only fish and plants planted by the host, but also self-inhabited small invertebrates, protozoa, algae, bacteria. And in order for the aquarium to be beautiful and comfortable for life, the whole system must be in balance. Substances entering it from the outside should be processed without deteriorating the vital indicators of water and not causing death or, on the contrary, uncontrolled outbreak of the number of any inhabitants, and then removed from the system during water changes and cleaning the aquarium.
What you need to do before launch?
Even before the launch procedure, it is necessary to solve a number of critical issues and take some necessary steps:
- Decide what kind of fish or aquatic animals you want to have. Find out what conditions they need. Be sure to find out if they are compatible with each other!
- Depending on the decisions on the first item, choose the volume and model of the aquarium, as well as a list of necessary equipment and design items. Based on the species and number of future inhabitants, decide whether you need a heater with a thermostat, for example, how powerful the filter should be, whether an additional compressor is needed, how to decorate an aquarium: stones or driftwood, which plants to plant, and so on.
- Choose a place for the aquarium - not in the draft and not in the sun. It is also important that access to the aquarium was convenient, and there were a sufficient number of outlets nearby.
- Buy and install an aquarium (necessarily on a flat surface, so that its edges do not hang from the shelf or pedestal even per centimeter). Pre-aquarium washed without the use of chemical detergents.
- Place the equipment in the aquarium: filter, compressor, heater and thermometer, lighting. Fill the soil with a layer of 3-4 cm. Depending on the type of soil and its source of origin, it may be necessary to pre-heat it, boil it or rinse it. The same applies to stones and snags.
Now the aquarium is ready to fill up with water and start running. But before we give a step-by-step start-up instruction, we will try to figure out what this notorious launch is for and what is the difference between running aquarium and not running.
Quite a bit of theory
As we already wrote above, the aquarium is an open-loop system, where various substances come outside. This is mainly fish food, which the fish eat, while releasing waste. In chemical terms, ammonia is the most significant and toxic part of this waste; even in low concentrations, it can cause poisoning and subsequent death of fish and other aquatic animals. However, in nature there are bacteria (they are called nitrifying) that consume ammonia, oxidizing it to nitrite. Nitrite for fish is not much better than ammonia, but there are other types of nitrifying bacteria, which in turn bind them, turning them into relatively harmless nitrates.
This whole system of bacterial colonies, which makes water with nitrates from poisonous ammonia water, quite suitable for fish, is called a biofilter. Since the efficiency of the biofilter directly depends on the number of its constituent bacteria in the aquarium (it is clear that two or three microscopic nitrosomonas cannot convert ammonia, selected by a dozen large goldfish, into safe compounds), these bacteria need to be allowed to multiply to the desired number. For this they need three things:
- nutrition (ammonia and nitrite);
- substrate (surface to which they can attach);
- and for some time, as bacteria multiply rapidly, but still not lightning.
Run (instructions for beginners)
So, we will analyze the points, how to run the aquarium correctly:
- The run starts with water pouring. Water must be poured plumbing, pre-defend it is not necessary. After pouring water turn on the filter with aeration. If the filter does not have an aerator, then the compressor must additionally work, since nitrifying bacteria require a lot of oxygen and a heater (set at 24-25 °). In this form, with the lights off, the aquarium is left for 5-7 days. All these days they spend only monitoring the operation of the equipment: check whether oxygen is supplied, measure the temperature of the water.
- After 5-7 days, unpretentious fast-growing plants are planted, after which they turn on the lighting for 4-5 hours a day.
- After 1-2 days you can start the first aquarium animals. This may be small unpretentious fish (viviparous or, for example, danios), but it is better to use snail ampoules or hymeno-viruses that are more resistant to water quality. Animals should be a bit. Feed them once a day in very small portions. It is necessary to constantly monitor their behavior and appetite. Ampulyaria, for example, are excellent indicators of water quality: in clean, good water, they rush around the aquarium at cruising speed, straightening antennae and looking for food. At this stage, the light is turned on for the whole day (8--12 hours), you can add special bacterial cultures to the aquarium to start (they are available from different companies, for example Sera Nitrivek).
- After a week, the remaining plants are planted and begin in parts (at intervals of 1-2 days) to launch the main fish population. For each released party you need to carefully monitor, feed moderately.
That is, in fact, all science. True, nothing complicated?
Of course, the equilibrium in the aquarium is still unstable, and some time after the launch such unpleasant phenomena can occur, such as outbreaks of diatoms. But if the launch was carried out correctly, these problems are usually not catastrophic, do not lead to a massive freezing of fish and are solved in working order. To combat these diatomies, for example, a small charming catfish otozinclus is successfully used.
How to facilitate the process of starting the aquarium?
Above, we wrote that for the reproduction of beneficial bacteria need nutrition and substrate. And, of course, the initial number of the bacterial colony matters. Thus, in order to accelerate the maturation of the biofilter and, accordingly, the launch of the aquarium, you can immediately add a significant amount of bacteria to the artificial reservoir and prepare a large area substrate for them (there is enough nutrition for bacteria in the starting aquarium).
Bacteria are introduced with the help of industrial starter culture (we also mentioned about them above) or with water, soil, filter filler from the existing, safe aquarium. To ensure a sufficient area of the substrate for bacteria, it is recommended to use filters with fillers made of porous ceramics or filters of considerable volume with other fillers, plant plants with narrow, feathery leaves, and use fine gravel of even size as the soil. All these surfaces will inhabit nitrifying bacteria.
Startup control of the aquarium greatly facilitates the use of tests for aquarium water for ammonia and nitrite. These tests are produced by different manufacturers and are not uncommon in pet stores. With their help, you can track the level of these toxic compounds in the water and adjust the population of fish in the running aquarium.
As you can see, the correct launch of the aquarium takes not so much time - it is quite possible to suffer two or three weeks. It does not require a colossal amount of strength and special academic knowledge. But it helps to avoid many problems in the future, preserves the life and health of the fish, and therefore, the nerves and good mood to their owner.
How to run a new aquarium?
In this article we will continue the discussion about the installation of the aquarium, which began with the article: Aquarium for beginners. Now let's consider how to properly install and run the aquarium, without harming yourself and the fish. After all, the launch of an aquarium is at least half of a successful business. Errors made at this time, can still interfere with the normal balance for a long time.
Installation of an aquarium
When the aquarium is already installed, it is filled with water and fish are running into it, it is very difficult and problematic to rearrange it. Therefore, it must be properly installed from the start. Make sure that the place and stand where you are going to put it - will hold the weight of the aquarium, do not forget, the mass can reach large values. Be sure to check the distortions using the level, even if you think that everything is smooth. Do not place the aquarium so that the edges hang from the stand. It is fraught with the fact that it just crumbles. The aquarium should stand on a stand all the bottom surface.
Glue the background before installing the aquarium; the easiest way to do this is to put a thin layer of glycerin on the background. Glycerin is sold in a pharmacy.
Do not forget that the aquarium should be free space for maintenance and pipe filter. Finally, when the place is chosen and it is reliable, do not forget the substrate under the aquarium, which will smooth out the irregularities and help to more evenly distribute the load on the bottom of the aquarium. As a rule, it comes complete with an aquarium, do not forget to check with the seller.
Running aquarium - a detailed video in several parts:
Ground laying and filling
All soils, except the original in the package, must be thoroughly cleaned before they sleep in the aquarium. A large amount of fine dirt and debris is present in all soils, and if you do not rinse it, you will seriously clog the water. The process of washing the soil is long and dirty, but extremely necessary. The easiest method is to wash a small amount of soil under running water. Strong water pressure will wash all the light elements and leave the ground almost intact. You can also just pour a small amount of soil into a bucket and put it under the tap, while forgetting about it for a while. When you return it will be clean.
Laying the soil can be uneven, it is best to place the soil at an angle. The front window has a smaller layer, the rear one has a larger one. This creates a better look at the review and makes it easier to clean up the garbage that accumulates near the front glass.
Soil thickness is important if you are going to plant live plants, and should be at least 5-8 cm.
Before pouring water in, check if the aquarium is level. This can be done with a building level. Distortion can increase the wrong load on the walls, and it just does not look aesthetically pleasing.
The second part of the launch:
Then it's time to fill the jar, usually with tap water.Just let it drip slightly to avoid debris and stagnant water. If possible, fill slowly, trying not to blur the soil, it is better to use a hose for this. Even well washed soil will give dregs the first time. You can simply put a plate on the bottom and direct the flow of water to it, the water will not erode the soil and the turbidity will be minimal. Filling the aquarium should be to the top, but leave a few centimeters underfilling. Do not forget, the plants and scenery will take the same place. After the aquarium is filled, add a special conditioner to the water, it will help to quickly remove chlorine and other elements from the water.
You can add water from the old aquarium (if you already have one), but only after the fresh water in the aquarium warms up. You can also put a filter from the old aquarium.
The third video about the launch:
After the aquarium is full, you can proceed to the installation and testing of equipment. The heater should be installed in a place with a good flow, for example, near the filter. So the water will warm up more evenly. Do not forget that the heater must be completely submerged under water! Modern heaters are sealed, they work completely under water. Do not try to bury it in the ground, or the heater will break or the bottom of the aquarium will crack! Set the temperature to about 24-25 ° C, as it warms up, check with a thermometer. Unfortunately, heaters can give a difference of 2-3 degrees. Most of them have a light bulb that lights up in the process of work, you can understand from it when it is on.
Internal filter - if the filter does not need aeration (for example, there is a compressor), then it should be placed on the very bottom, since all the dirt accumulates there. If you sculpt it in 10-20 cm above the ground, then there will be no sense from it, and the whole bottom will be littered with garbage. The closer to the surface, the better the aeration, if needed. So the filter mounting is the choice of the optimal depth - it is necessary that it be as low as possible, but at the same time, aeration works ... And this is already determined by experience. But it is better to read the instructions for the model that you purchased. When you turn on the filter for the first time, air will come out of it, perhaps even more than once. Do not worry, it will take several hours before all the air is cleaned with water.
External filter is a little more difficult to connect, but again - read the instructions. Be sure to place the pipes for intake and discharge of water in different ends of the aquarium. This will eliminate dead spots, places where the water in the aquarium stagnates. It is better to place water intake near the bottom, and do not forget to put a protection on it - a prefilter, so that fish or large debris do not accidentally suck in. The external filter must be filled before operation. That is, before being included in the network, it is filled with water using a manual pump. I'll tell you that on some models it is not so easy, I had to suffer. As in the internal filter, in the external one there is air that will be released with time. But at first, the filter can work quite loudly, do not be afraid. If you want to speed up the process, gently tilt the filter at different angles or shake slightly.
Driftwood must be thoroughly rinsed and then boiled. This applies to both branded and those that you have found or bought on the market. Sometimes snags are dry and float, in which case they need to be soaked in water. The process is not fast, so do not forget to change the water in the tank with the wet rod. How, where and how many elements to put this business of your taste and not for me to advise. The only thing - make sure that everything is firmly installed, and the glass will not break if you break it. In the case of installation in the aquarium of large stones - 5 or more kg, does not interfere with the ground, put foam under it. This will ensure that such a large cobblestone does not break the bottom.
Running fish and planting plants
When can I run the fish in a new aquarium? After the water is filled, the décor is installed, and the equipment is connected, wait 2-3 days (4-5 is even better) before planting the fish. During this time, the water warms up, cleared. You make sure that the equipment works as it should, the temperature is stable and what you need, the dangerous elements (chlorine) have evaporated.
AquaSafe for water.
At this time, it is good to add special preparations to facilitate the establishment of balance in the aquarium. These are liquids or powders that contain beneficial bacteria that live in the soil and filter, and purify water from harmful substances. Plants can be planted a little faster, before planting the fish, but not before the water warms up to 24 C. Plant the plants, wait a couple of days until the raised dregs settle and launch your new pets.
How much to defend the water for the aquarium?
This issue has been considered repeatedly in the forums, in the reference literature, and it would seem that it does not make sense to discuss anew how much to defend and how to fill in the water during the next substitution. In most cases, the argument of the opponents is as follows: "the longer, the better the water", "let all the muck disappear," "a week is needed for everything to work out."
In this case, the aquarists are not in a hurry to justify these arguments, and water changes should be carried out regularly. Consider in detail the time interval for the preparation of water.
Why do you need to defend the water?
The main reason for this is harmful impurities that can harm the inhabitants of our aquarium. After settling, solids sometimes appear in the sediment. Initially clear water after a while can grow turbid.
Many aquarists leave the water for substitution to breathe for a few days, and so that all harmful suspensions evaporate for a week. This assumption is partly true, but it cannot guarantee the quality of the prepared water.
Before we do something, we always know why we need to do it. By keeping tap water outside the pipeline, we are trying to improve its performance so that it does not harm our fish. In other words, when defending water, we get rid of most of the malicious components.
Conditionally harmful substances in the water can be divided into:
- solid (precipitates to the bottom);
- gaseous (volatilized from water to the environment);
- liquid (initially dissolved and remaining in water).
The process of settling can affect only solid and gaseous mixtures, and it does not affect liquid substances in any way.
The sedimentation of water gives the most pronounced result in the presence of solids. In accordance with sanitary standards, in their tap water should not be.
However, considering the quality of old water pipes (rust in pipes), maintenance of pumping stations by unqualified personnel and other factors, it is impossible to exclude the presence of solid constituents in drinking water.
If the plumbing is modern, made of plastic pipes and fittings, there will be no suspended solids in the water.It is necessary to defend water until complete precipitation of solid impurities in the sediment is not more than a day, a further increase in the time of the result will not give.
Lime sediment on the inner walls of the kettle says that you have a high carbonate hardness of water and it manifests itself only when boiling. High rigidity is harmful only to certain types of fish. If it is necessary to lower it, then there are other ways to do it. Defending such water will not give any result.
If water is collected from a well, well or spring, the solids may be present in the form of clay particles or grains of sand, which create turbidity. Such a suspension for aquatic inhabitants is not dangerous. You need to pay attention to the fact that in its appearance it does not resemble clay milk (possibly contaminated gills in fish).
True, no one aquarist will use such water for his fish.
The presence of clay particles in the water gives a slime that does not precipitate quickly. Messing with cleaning is not worth it. To accelerate the achievement of full transparency, you can plant floating plants with a developed root system, it perfectly collects clay particles.
Summarizing the solids in the water, you can say:
- Type water in any transparent container and leave it for several hours.
- If there are impurities discussed above, then it will be noticeable after an hour (a precipitate will appear on the bottom, or pieces of rust).
- In the presence of visible constituents of solid impurities, each time before the substitution, it is necessary to defend water (no more than 12 hours, further inefficient). In the absence of suspensions in water (and they are extremely rare), settling to remove solids is impractical.
- Once a year we take water samples to control solids.
Gaseous constituents of water
This type of substance evaporates through the surface of the water. Here one can consider the quantitative and qualitative compositions of dissolved gases in water. Gaseous substances in natural water enter into chemical reactions with other dissolved elements, due to diffusion they constantly circulate through the water mirror and are harmless and harmless to fish.
The method of water disinfection for your area can be found in the local water utility, this information will not be superfluous. At new water treatment plants, ozone and ultraviolet cleaning is applied, and such water can be added without fear (it is pointless to defend against oxygen and photons).
The outdated chlorine cleaning method is gradually becoming a thing of the past, but is still in use. Chlorine and its derivatives are poisons. They allow the destruction of both harmful bacteria and beneficial ones, as well as depending on the concentration of large animals and even humans.
Method of elimination of gaseous chlorine from water
Unpleasant smell of chlorine coming from freshly poured water, everyone knows. Water, being in a cup, ceases to smell after a while, and this means that chlorine molecules have evaporated. If the fish are placed in newly recruited chlorinated water, they will die from body burns and gill petals.
Having made some observations on settling, it can be seen that chlorine evaporates quite quickly. It is not necessary to stand for water from the tap for more than a day, since the residual chlorine cannot affect the health of the fish.
The important point is the choice of dishes. The greater the area of contact of water with the environment, the faster the gas exchange occurs, and chlorine disappears. From this it follows that when settling water in a large-diameter basin, it will become suitable for an aquarium much faster than using a plastic bottle.It is impossible to cover the used dishes with a lid and even more so to twist the bottle, since there will be no place for volatilization of gas impurities, and the water which was chlorinated will remain so.
Ozone and its effect on fish
With ozone, things are somewhat different. It does not have a pronounced smell, although it carries freshness. Under natural conditions, we feel it during a thunderstorm, during the operation of air conditioners (ozonizing) and laser printers. Before water is supplied to the drinking pipeline, the process of its ozonization takes place, the ozone molecules are unstable and quickly pass into a stable compound - oxygen. Well, oxygen is not dangerous to fish.
Other gaseous impurities
If you pour fresh water from the tap, then you can observe a certain amount of bubbles on the walls of the tank. They are formed due to the presence of excess gases dissolved in water. When refilling fresh water directly into the aquarium, gas compounds appear on the plants, the skin of the fish, and the aquarium.
If the fish gets an excess of gas, then bubbles form in the circulatory system, which leads to blockage of blood vessels, gas emboli and, as a result, to death.This can happen if the aquarium fish, bringing home, immediately settle into a container with fresh water. Beginners aquarists are always warned that it is impossible to do so!
Also, the appearance of bubbles can be caused by the method of pumping water into the water supply system. Cold water pumped into the pipes under high pressure loses it sharply at the exit, and the gases evaporate into the atmosphere. If you type this water in a glass, it will be covered in bubbles that pop up along the walls to the surface. It is necessary to defend a little.
With regular water changes in the aquarium, most likely, there will be no bubbles. Fresh and clean water does not greatly increase the number of gas-containing mixtures in the total volume, so you can not be afraid of the appearance of single bubbles on the fins of the fish.
From all of the above for gas mixtures it can be noted that:
- chlorine poses the greatest danger;
- upholding spend more than a day does not make sense;
- in order to speed up the process of settling, it is necessary to provide strong aeration in the water tank (even simple mixing with a pump will significantly shorten the time for gas mixtures to exit);
- For the use of fresh water (without upholding), you can add special components to it, which are very large in the sale, and after 10-15 minutes the liquid is suitable for adding to the aquarium.
Substances dissolved in water
The most dangerous components of water are dissolved impurities. They do not precipitate to the bottom, do not fly away into the environment and are invisible. Defending them does not affect.
There are a large number of such substances, and many are not classified. It is almost impossible to say exactly what harmful substances are in tap water without special chemical analysis. In addition, the composition of the water is not constant.
You can only say that in water with chlorine antibacterial cleaning there is a mass of liquid chlorine constituents (in the greatest amount of chloramine), which remain on settling. From this it follows that in the presence of chlorine water it is necessary to use special conditioners that will remove not only gas chlorine, but also bind chloramines.
In water, ammonia, nitrites, hydrogen sulfide may be present in large quantities. If the dose is large, the fish will suddenly become bad when changing water. An aquarium with advanced biofiltration (bacteria nitrifying) will transfer these harmful substances, and just launched can die.
The most unstable period in terms of water composition in the water supply is spring. Melting snow on the fields that were treated with various chemicals in the past season form streams flowing into reservoirs. And from them there is a water intake for the needs of the population.
Therefore, it is very important at this time of the year to process water for substitution with conditioners that bind nitrites, ammonia, chlorine, metals, etc. The choice of conditioner depends on your capabilities and the aquarium. This market is now widely represented. It is better to consult on this issue directly with the sellers.
Is there a need for water settling?
In order for the tap water to be normalized for replacement in an aquarium, it is necessary to remove from it all the harmful components - solid, gaseous and liquid.
Today, upholding is very rarely relevant. Solid components in the water supply system have isolated cases, chlorine water derivatives must be removed by air conditioning (chlorine gas is also removed), and liquid ones - only by special air conditioning. Polluted water settles for several hours, and with strong aeration much faster.
From all of the above, it is clear that it is best to use special additives for water. Settling water does not completely remove harmful substances, and in some cases it may even be harmful (a dusty film appears, stuffiness, etc.).
From personal experience:
- I collect the necessary amount of water for the substitution;
- add air conditioning according to the instructions;
- perform aeration for 15 minutes;
- I bring the temperature of fresh water (with air conditioning) into accord with the aquarium one;
- I fill, and that's it.
The advantages of this method of water preparation: all harmful substances are removed, no need to wait until the water settles, the pots do not harm the interior of the room.
Video from the company Tetra on how to properly prepare the water for the aquarium:
I want to get the fish where to start. What kind of water to fill in the aquarium
"first you need to buy an aquarium and wash it for a week", but why :)? To extend the fun launch of the aquarium :)
ANDREY ANDREYEV, as I understand the most banks yet, then I will begin:
1. Better to buy an aquarium of at least 50 liters
2. Next, you will need to buy a filter (but better, of course, a pump with a sponge): so that the water in the water mixes, and this is necessary so that the temperature in all water layers is the same, and also to saturate the water with oxygen, also on the pump sponge beneficial bacteria accumulate (so now you understand that this equipment is mandatory for an aquarium !!)
3. Thermometer: so that you always know what the temperature of the water in the aquarium
4. Thermo heater: necessary to raise the temperature of the water in the aquarium (but you can not buy it if you have a temperature in the room where the aquarium will stand, the temperature does not fall below 24 degrees)
5.lamps (I have energy saving with a temperature range of 4200K (this spectrum is well suited for living plants)), lamps are necessary for living plants, if artificial plants are planned, then you can take with a temperature spectrum of 6400K (under this spectrum, the fish look beautiful)
6.Grunt: it is best to buy the soil with a fraction of 2-3 mm. A layer of soil is better so that there is at least 3-4 cm, then let's talk about launching the aquarium:
1. Place the substrate under the aquarium at the place where the aquas will stand (you can make the substrate of foam)
2. wash the aquarium with warm water and a sponge
3. wash the purchased soil in the bucket (so that there is no dirt left in the soil), you can boil it (but I did not do it)
4. we fill in water from the tap to half akvas
5.Fill soil (washed in a bucket) in the aquarium
6. install the equipment (pump with a sponge, thermometer, thermal heater (if necessary)), turn on all this equipment after you have completed step 8
7. Set the scenery
8. fill the water to the end
9. The next day we plant live plants in the ground.
10. Turn on the lamps (the lamps must be switched on at least 9 hours a day, but for the first time no more than 4-5 hours, otherwise we can’t avoid algae)
11.day after 4 you can run 2 somics (preferably corridors, resistant somiki ... checked by me :))
12. A few days after launch, the water will cloud, so do not worry, after a while the water will become clear.
13. 2 weeks later you can run any fish you want (well, of course those that are suitable for your volume)
Attention!! ! Immediately start a lot of fish should not be (fraught with a bacterial outbreak, and therefore the death of your population in aquas)
Then talk about the care of aquas:
1. We do not change the water in the first month after the launch of the aquarium at all (do not change the month !!!)
2. After that, it will be necessary to change the water once a week at 20-30%
3.After you run the fish in the aquarium they should not be fed for 2 days (this is due to the fact that the fish must adapt to your aquas)
4. further it is best to feed the fish (young 2 times a day, adults once a day), and arrange a discharge day once a week (i.e., not feed at all once a week)
5. Also, as long as you still have not grown plants, it is necessary to siphon the soil (once a week) in places where the plants are not planted.
6. clean the glass as needed (you can clean it with a scraper, or you can do it yourself as described on the site //www.aqa.ru/forum/vt171728)
"2. After this, it will be necessary to change the water once a week at 20-30%" - at this point I forgot to write that the water must be defended for at least 9 hours (it is necessary for chlorine to disappear from the water), (I do so : I pour water into a bucket (10 liters) and leave the water to stand overnight, then pour water from the aqua (hose) into another (empty) water bucket, then pour (with a bucket :)) waste water into the aquas)
Well, for the care of aquas I kinda wrote everything :)
Good luck in the aquarium!
Buy an aquarium, filter or compressor, thermometer - to measure the temperature in the aquarium, the water heater - to maintain a certain temperature in the aquarium - from 20-26 degrees, each fish needs its own temperature, the optimum is 24.Water defended. Then buy soil, plants and fish compatible between by myself.
11 quick tips for a novice aquarist
If you have recently taken a great interest in aquariums and decided to create a small piece of wildlife in your home and put your first aquarium - this article is for you. In it, I tried to give a few basic tips that you will need when starting your first aquarium.
1) Do not immediately buy a small aquarium, take at least 60-80 liter, if, of course, at home there is a place for it. Larger aquariums are more resistant to temperature and chemical changes. Recently, the trend is for nano aquariums (aquariums up to 20 liters), but it is better to start with a larger aquarium.
2) Wash the filtering elements of your filter only in aquarium water (not in the aquarium itself), for example, in a bucket or basin, this will allow you to save those bacterial colonies that in turn help you in the fight against ammonia and nitrite. Tap water can kill them, which for some time will disrupt the biological work of your filter.
3) Do not forget and do not be lazy to replace every week 20-25% of water, this will allow you to fight with nitrates in your aquarium. And remember that you should not, as 80% of people in our country thought, pour out all the water once a year and boil the soil, it’s enough to replace 20-25% of the water with fresh water, which will ensure a long and happy life of your aquarium.
4) Do not overfeed fish, it is very important. Firstly, overfeeding harms the fish itself (here you can look at people, overeating was not good for anyone), and secondly, the food that was not eaten starts to rot in the aquarium (the smell of the swamp), which significantly spoils the water quality.
5) Always check the compatibility of the fish you buy. You must admit that nobody saw an open-air cage with wolves, penguins and rabbits living together in a zoo. In the aquarium just as well.
6) Do not release a new fish from the bag or bottle directly into the aquarium, first place this bag in the water to even out the temperature, then add 50-100 ml of water from the aquarium into the bag, the bottle - this is done in order to level the parameters water. It is better to do this alignment within 20-30 minutes, no less.
7) Before buying fish, inspect it very carefully for damage, cloudiness, sores and other abnormal condition.
8) Use the quarantine aquarium for newly arrived fish, this will help to keep the fish that you already have. The question is especially acute when the fish is not cheap, and in any case, the fish after some time become full members of the family and we, aquarists, need to take care of their health. So just in case keep a quarantine aquarium where you can watch a new fish for a couple of weeks for its health.
9) Run the aquarium consistently, so as not to overload the filtration system. The filtration system as a human body, if it is trained gradually, it will give a greater result than if you immediately give a greater load. Colonies of bacteria develop gradually with increasing load, so do not immediately run all the fish that you have identified yourself.
10) Do not believe the rule of 1 cm fish = 1 liter of water, who invented it and when, but this rule is not entirely correct.
11) Do not get carried away using chemicals, especially if you do not fully understand their effects and the consequences of their use.
It is worth remembering that the path to success in aquarism is through scooping up new and new information through books, magazines, forums and aquarium portals that help us to succeed in our hobby.
Modern aquariums are assembled on silicone, so that they are fully ready for work and do not need to be washed. Install an aquarium with the necessary equipment, fill it with water, turn on the aerator, heater, filter. When the water warms up, you can land the plants. Let the aquarium work without fish for two weeks. And only then you can run the fish.
What water should be poured into the aquarium?
Vika S and Igor Novikov- everything seemed to be correctly answered. here's what else --- firstly, it is necessary to calculate whether the volume of the aquarium for your number of fish is sufficient, at the rate of 3 liters per 1 cm of the length of the fish, if the volume is not enough, the water will quickly become turbid. And I can advise the "Aquarium Water Purifier" preborate, the manufacturer of "Himola" 1 time a week, add to the water and everything will be OK! The water in the aquarium must be constantly added and partially replaced so that it would be updated to 1/3 of the whole volume in a week, but you still need to wash the aquarium sometimes, and with this preparation you can do it once every 4-7 weeks and buy a biofilter very helps (well, don't get the fish like that (the fish are different)
The whole thing, in my opinion. in lighting , flooring. But we must remember that this is not just entertainment or interior decoration. Any decisions on placement, lighting, design should be made on the basis of the interests of its inhabitants. An aquarium will become a real decoration of the house, if properly organized living space for fish and provide them with regular care).
I use a special tool AquaSafe. It makes tap water suitable for fish, and at the same time it tints in a gentle blue color. Maybe this is what you want?
What kind of water do you need fishes ????
For an aquarium water is needed that meets the following requirements: clear, clean, with dH 5-20 °, pH 6.5-7.5. Usually tap water is quite suitable, but it contains a large amount of chlorine and oxygen. This problem can be solved by settling for 1-2 days, boiling, aeration, filtration through activated carbon, various chemical preparations.
It all depends on the quality of your tap water ...
The optimum water temperature for keeping these fish is 25, the minimum is not lower than 22. Aeration and filtration are not needed (with a water column height of more than 15 cm, aeration is necessary only for mixing surface warmer and near-bottom cool water layers). Desirable direct sunlight, illuminating the aquarium at least 2-3 hours a day. The vegetation is thick, with "glades" for swimming. Fish in an aquarium are kept by a flock consisting of 2 males and several females or one male and several females.
it is necessary ... êàî this is a serious topic ... the cockerel is not picky ... I died ... I have to follow him ... defend the water ... and feed the norms with food ... there is a small type of triton ... hold the water temperature no less than 21 ... 2 days is necessary for water ... better in the constr and in a warm place ... and write it, thou shalt write ... I will tell you everything ... if you want a real aquarium to buy ...
Question about aquarium fish ...
If the water is clear, it does not mean that it is ideal for fish. There is such a thing as “launching an aquarium”. And this does not mean that they poured clean, clear water, launched fish (even with store water) and that’s it, live fish.
Yes, and with a little shop water infection is not excluded.
together with fish and water from the store brought plants parasites. You can get rid of if you completely wash the aquarium and everything in it, especially the compressor. It is advisable to enlighten the entire aquarium with an ultraviolet (blue) lamp.
Most likely you picked up an infection from the store, you can’t buy fish into the aquarium with this water !! !
If I see that in the aquarium shop from a cat. I was given a fish, the water is clear and the fish are all healthy, then I (rarely) pour fish with water - it was only 2-3 times.
And so I constantly, when I buy fish, I catch them with a net and transplant them in an aquarium !!))