Simple rules for changing aquarium water
Replacing water in an aquarium is a relatively simple and short process. Quite often, aquarists, especially beginners, think that replacement will take a lot of time and as a result there will be a mess in the apartment, a sea of water and a lot of scattered things. But, fortunately, everything is not so sad. It is enough to acquire the necessary tools and know some rules.
Replacing water in a small aquarium
Note that a small aquarium means a capacity of not more than 200 liters.
What is required to replace the water?
- Siphon with a pear;
- Ball valve;
- A piece of hose approximately one and a half meters long.
What is each item on the list for?
A siphon is a cylinder that directly connects to a hose. It is necessary for cleaning the soil. You can buy it in the nearest pet store at an affordable price. A self-made siphon can also be used for a change: to do this, cut the bottom of the bottle, up to one and a half liters in volume, and attach a hose to the neck.
The pear is a non-return valve made of rubber, which, when pressed, expels air from the hose. This way it contributes to filling the aquarium with water.
You can not use a pear. Instead, you can either initiate the mouth water supply (but this is not a very hygienic way), or use the following technique. So, you need to turn off the tap at the opposite (second) end of the hose and fill it with water by approximately half or a little more with the help of scooping it with a siphon. Then open the water tap, the water independently merges directly into the bucket. After filling the container, it is best to turn off the tap and empty the bucket. Next you need to substitute the bucket again and open the water tap.
A bucket is needed in order to fill in fresh water. It is desirable that the bucket had a spout, since water is supplied with the help of a bucket through the top. A bucket with a spout, in addition, will help avoid spills and other unpleasant consequences of replacement.
Estimated time: 10-15 minutes. It is possible that the first water change will take more time, but then, having worked it out, you will spend a minimum amount of time.
Large aquarium: how to change the water
An experienced aquarist would answer this question like this: replacing water in a large aquarium is a process that is even simpler than in a small aquarium. What is needed? Siphon with a pear, a hose, but it must be longer to reach the bathroom.
The back end of the hose should be lowered into the sink. You can make a loop with which the hose is fixed to the tap. Fingers need to pinch the hose specifically below the water level and with the help of scooping fill the top piece with water. Then a simple movement - let go, and the water begins to merge.
Replacing water in a large aquarium can also be done with a choke. It is required to connect to the tap for fresh fluid intake. If you fill in separated water, it is better to use a pump for pumping water into the aquarium.
Partial or full replacement?
It's time to make the next replacement of water in the aquarium. But how to determine whether it should be full or partial? When addressing this issue are taken into account:
- condition of the aquarium;
- filtration level;
- the number of substitutions during the month or during another period;
- the use of chemical compounds.
In the event that a partial replacement is carried out every week, then changing it again, more than 10% of the volume is not required. This allows you to refresh the water in the aquarium, remove accumulated organic compounds, remove excess nutrients, stabilize ph.
If a partial replacement was made once every two weeks, then you can either change 10% of the liquid, or, which is better, change 20%. Such a substitution solves the problem of increasing the concentration of chemical compounds or fertilizers. In some cases, it can be recommended to change even 30%, for example, if additional fertilization is carried out, carbon dioxide is supplied, the light day has increased, etc.
The aquarium can be very dirty, what to do in such a situation? It is necessary to carry out an urgent partial replacement of water for at least 30% of the volume, as well as to eliminate rot, remnants of food, garbage. The question may naturally arise: why is not a complete replacement suitable? The fact is that an aquarium is a biosystem, and water is one of the most important components of its constancy. Sharp water changes - stress for aquarium dwellers. It is enough to replace 30%, the quality of the remaining water will improve the bacteria.
Another special case - water pollution from the use of medicines. As a rule, recommendations on the replacement of water are contained in the instructions for a particular medication. But if they are absent, then it must be remembered that the drug acts for 1-2 days, after - its presence in the water becomes meaningless and even harmful to the aquarium. Do I need a complete replacement of water? No, even in this case it is not worth resorting to such drastic measures. It is better to replace 50% of the volume of the aquarium. The goal will be achieved: the concentration of the drug will decrease, and the constancy of the aquarium will not be violated.
How often to change the water?
Aquarian inhabitants can be accustomed to a certain frequency of water changes. But this does not mean that you can not follow the recommendations at all.
Partial replacement of water can be carried out at least twice a month for 20-30% of the volume. During the period between these water changes, a certain amount of waste products, organic acids, tannins, etc., accumulates. The ph of water also changes. The aquarium needs to change its performance, for which water is replaced. But it is important to understand that fish, plants get used to certain environmental conditions. With dramatic changes in these conditions, the inhabitants are under stress. They will survive one traumatic situation, but if it turns into a system, then arthropods, then fish, after the plant, can begin to die.
The frequency may be different, but still not advised to change the water more than once a week. A weekly water change of 10% is called optimal. Such a replacement is almost not felt by plants, fish.
And a few more tips:
- the best option for small aquariums (up to 50 liters) is a partial weekly water change;
- When using medications, determine the frequency of substitution in accordance with the instructions.
As you can see, water replacement is not the most difficult task. Say more: and not the most troublesome. It is enough to carry out the correct substitution once and remember the rules for subsequent replacements. Good luck!
How and how much to change the water in the aquarium, the frequency of water changes
How to change the water in the aquarium?
In this article we will discuss a fairly simple, but at the same time, a difficult question regarding the change of water in the aquarium. It is simple because there is no need to replace water in the aquarium. However, there are a lot of nuances and certain specifics that you need to know on this issue. The matter is further complicated by the lack of complete, comprehensive information on the Internet. As a rule, information about the change of water in an aquarium is either compressed, or one-sided, or only a certain part is covered.
No exception was our site. Here, for example, article Boiled, melted or distilled water for aquarium. It seems the article is good, but narrow and concise.
So let's fix this defect. As much as possible and fully consider the question: "How to change the water in the aquarium?" That in turn, will give us the opportunity to make the change of water as simple and effective as possible.
For convenience, let's break down the article into the following sections:
1. WHY DO I NEED TO CHANGE WATER IN THE AQUARIUM, DO I NEED TO DO IT AT ALL?
2. WHY FOR DEFINING AQUARIUM WATER?
3. HOW IS THE CORRECT AND HOW MUCH ON TIME DO I NEED TO LEAVE WATER FOR THE AQUARIUM?
4. WHAT TO DO IF A BIGGER NUMBER OF AQUARIUM WATER IS NECESSARY TO DECLINE? OTHER WAYS OF PREPARING WATER FOR THE AQUARIUM?
5. HOW OFTEN AND IN WHAT VOLUME DO I NEED TO REPLACE AQUARIUM WATER WITH FRESH?
6. THE RIGHT ORDER IS THE PROCESS OF CHANGING AQUARIUM WATER.
WHY DO I NEED TO CHANGE WATER IN THE AQUARIUM, DO I NEED TO DO IT AT ALL?
Many novice aquarists are faced with different opinions about the need to change the aquarium water. Often in the forums or from friends you can hear the phrase: "That I do not change the water at all and .... everything is OK" or "I rarely, rarely ... and also OK." Here that, at the beginner and there is a stupor! How so? I’ve furnished the whole balcony with buckets, how I carry a water carrier from the bathroom to the aquarium, but it turns out that this is “monkey work” !? Without tormenting for a long time, I will answer you - do not listen to these "uncles and aunts"! They mislead you. AQUARIUM WATER MUST BE CHANGED!
And the thing is this! In the process of vital activity of all aquatic aquatic organisms (inhabitants), the aquarium itself, or rather, the water becomes clogged. For example, an excess of food, fish feces, dead leaves of plants and other organic matter. All this "dirt" turns into the most terrible poison - ammonia, which is destructive for all living things in an aquarium. Further, the nitrifying bacteria that are in the water, the filter and the soil "decompose" ammonia to nitrite (poison), then nitrate ("weak" poison), and then the remains are converted to gaseous state and leave the water.
So, no matter how many useful nitrifying bacteria are in the aquarium of colonies, no matter how many live plants are in the aquarium, which also partially absorb ammonia, no matter how powerful the filters are ... no matter, the above poisons tend to accumulate. And you can bring them ONLY REGULAR REPLACEMENT OF WATER TO CLEAN.
What happens in an aquarium for those who do not change the water for a long time? Many aquarium fish tend to adapt and live in the worst conditions - get used to the poisons. However, this function of "survival in any conditions" is not eternal. In fish, irreversible changes occur in the internal organs, mucous membranes and gills. Fish weaken, their immunity falls. And the “Doomsday” comes when an outbreak of a bacterial, fungal or infusorian attack occurs ... not many survive!
In total, the change of aquarium water is one of the most important ways to maintain "health in the aquarium", one cannot do without it. Laziness in this matter is a fatal mistake!
WHY DRAIN AQUARIUM WATER?
HOW IS IT CORRECT TO DO IT?
There is such a non-contagious sore in fish, called Gas embolism. In a nutshell - this is the entry of small air bubbles into the blood vessels and blood of fish. As a result, there is a blockage of blood vessels. Fishes begin to swim sideways, the behavior becomes alarming, fearful. The fins and the whole body begin to tremble convulsively. The movement of the gill covers slows down, and then completely stops ... further death!A frequent cause of gas emboli is inadequate settled water for an aquarium. The fact is that tap water (tap water) is excessively saturated with air bubbles that are so small that they are not even visible to the human eye. Just imagine how much water “poured through the pipes” until it reached your tap!
Thus, filling the tap water in an aquarium with fish - YOU ARE VERY RISK. Yes, in practice, everything can do, but this is a game of Russian roulette.
What happens to water if it is defended? What happens is that small bubbles gradually merge and come out of the water. Water saturation by air decreases, the risks are reduced to zero.
In addition, it is worth noting that in the process of settling water for the aquarium, heavy and harmful compounds, for example, chlorine as sediment at the bottom of the container and film on the surface of the water, settle.
HOW IS THE CORRECT AND HOW MUCH ON TIME DO I NEED TO LEAVE WATER FOR THE AQUARIUM?
Everything is simple and should not cause much difficulty. The water in the aquarium should settle in a container with a wide neck: a bucket, a basin, an enamel saucepan. You understand that in a bottle with a narrow neck, excess air goes out poorly. Container for sludge should not be metallic, rusty or made of toxic substances or paints. Plastic buckets, perhaps the best and easiest option for defending aquarium water.
About time! ... The longer the water settles, the better! I personally defend the water for 7 days - this is convenient and coincides with my Sunday schedule for changing the water in the aquarium. In general, such terms of water settling 1-14 days roam the Internet.
WHAT TO DO IF A LARGE AMOUNT OF WATER IS NECESSARY TO DECLINE? OTHER WAYS OF PREPARING WATER FOR THE AQUARIUM?
But this is really a problematic issue for owners of large aquariums and not large apartments! How to defend 50, and then 100 liters of water?
If this is a new aquarium and the first launch of the aquarium is made, you can immediately fill in the aquarium with tap water, defend it and at the same time add air conditioners to improve the quality of water.
If water is needed for replacement, then our first glance is the only rational option is to purchase construction containers (plastic buckets for mixing mixtures) for 50, 100 liters.
Other ways to prepare aquarium water in the first place include: boiling, freezing water, as well as its purchase of water in the store. See more about this. HERE.
Also, aquarium water can be prepared using special air conditioners such as: Tetra AquaSafe, AMMO-LOC, Sera aqutan and others.
Here is a video about one of them:
HOW OFTEN AND IN WHAT VOLUME DO I NEED TO REPLACE WATER IN THE AQUARIUM?
Almost in all books, on all sites, they write standardly what needs to be changed weekly? part of the water from the total volume of the aquarium. This is a generally accepted norm, BUT NOT DOGMA. Here, look, please statistics of the survey, which is conducted on our site.How often do you change the aquarium water to fresh?
As you can see, everyone changes the water in different ways and the weekly replacement of aquarium water is not a dogma! Why? It's very simple - everyone has different aquariums, different fish, plants, and so on. For example, there are fish that love the "old" water and the frequent change of water only annoys them (the family of labyrinth fish). The abundance of living plants, also reduces pollution in the aquarium. In the end, someone has a large aquarium, someone has a small, someone has a big fish, and someone has a small one.
All this individual specificity of the content of fish excludes the concept dogma number and frequency of substitution of aquarium water. And there is only one advice - you should adapt yourself and you should come to the conclusion about how often and how much water you need to change in your aquarium. In this case, you must take into account the volume of the reservoir, the population of the aquarium, the individual characteristics of the fish, the presence or number of plants, the filter power, the presence of ion exchange resins in the filter, and so on.
THE RIGHT ORDER OF CHANGING AQUARIUM WATER
Finally, I want to give attention to the beginner aquarists, that it is only necessary to change the aquarium water after cleaning the aquarium, and not before.That is, first we:
- clean the filter and other equipment;
- wipe the walls of the aquarium;
- we thin and cut the plants;
- siphon soil;
- produce other manipulations and permutations;
- and only then we replace part of the water with fresh one;
If you have any questions, any comments on the article, please leave them in the comments - we will discuss.
Useful video about changing aquarium water
How to change the water in a small aquarium :: how to care for fish in a small aquarium :: Aquarium fish
How to change the water in a small aquarium
Mini-aquariums - an attractive interior decoration. But unlike large tanks, equipped with all necessary equipment, there are some problems with care. If you follow the basic rules, including the replacement of water, you can avoid the flowering of the aquarium and create fairly tolerable conditions for the fish.
The question "opened a pet shop. Business is not going. What to do?" - 2 answers
You will need
- - soft distilled water;
- - net capacity;
- - bucket;
- - scraper.
1. It is believed that a small aquarium is easier to clean than a large one. However, this is the first misconception of inexperienced aquarists. It requires more frequent replacement of water, because the products of decomposition of fish waste are accumulated here most of all. In addition, intensive plant growth can cause a lot of trouble.
2. The water in a small aquarium should not be completely changed. It is enough to replace up to 1/5 of the total volume. This should be done quite often - once every 3-4 days.
3. Replacement water should only be soft, room temperature, so you should have a constant supply. Only tap water from clean dishes that should be used only for this purpose. To defend the liquid must be at least three days.
4. Replacing water in a small aquarium is not difficult. Calculate the required quantity for replacement. For example, in an aquarium with a capacity of 10 liters, it is necessary to change 2 liters (1/5 of the total volume).
5. Scoop out the required amount of water with a special scoop with a long handle. Scrub the walls of the aquarium and add fresh soft water. Then collect water in a clean dish and leave it to stand until the next procedure.
6. The water in the mini-tanks evaporates very quickly. Check its level regularly and top up if necessary.
7. Fully change the water in the aquarium should be as rare as possible, because it violates the biological equilibrium. However, this must be done once a year to transplant plants and clean the walls of the aquarium and filter.
8. To replace the water completely, remove the fish and place them in a jar for a while. Drain fluid with a hose. Remove excess algae. Clean the rocks and walls of the aquarium.
9.Then pour the separated water. Add bacteria and let the aquarium stand for a couple of days, then run the fish into it.
For dwelling in a small space, choose guppies, gourami and tetra. These fish feel pretty good in mini-aquariums. Also in the pond you can settle a cockerel, neons look beautiful. If the fish have grown to a rather large size, they need to be deposited in a larger tank.
Very impressive look and feel good in a small aquarium, not only fish, but also other marine and freshwater inhabitants, such as shrimp.
How to wash the aquarium with fish
Taking care of the fish in the aquarium, from time to time you have to face the problem - how to clean the aquarium at home. Regardless of whether it is large or small, an accumulation of algae and organic matter accumulates on its walls, and the water becomes cloudy. To do the right cleaning, you must comply with a number of requirements so that the life of the fish at this time was safe.
Aquarium after the "launch"
The first months after the "launch" of the aquarium, it is necessary to monitor the state of its cleanliness, removing the remnants of rotten food and decorations. Once a week it is necessary to replace the water with pure and infused water, but not completely. If the aquarium lives correctly, then biological balance will be established in it, the water will become transparent with a yellowish tinge. When this happens, you can do the first cleaning.
What you need
The first thing to do is to collect materials for cleaning the aquarium. To make it shine clean, you should prepare:
- Clean bucket or large bowl;
- Algae scraper;
- Hose siphon and gravel vacuum unit.
Before starting work, you need to prepare a new water. Replacement will require removal of stagnant water from the tank (20-30% of the total volume). If you keep sea fish, prepare the correct proportions of sea salt for water. Make sure that the new water is free from chlorine, organic matter and other harmful impurities. An important rule is that water is considered infused if chlorine has eroded from it for several days. Other indicators of water (hardness, alkalinity, acidity) can be checked with a litmus indicator, the temperature of the water - with a specially designed thermometer. Usually, the water is infused for 48 hours, then it can be considered free from minerals contained in tap water. 2 hours before washing and 2 hours after it, it is undesirable to give fish food.
Use a new bucket or bowl to clean the aquarium, not the ones that were used for cleaning floors. On the used items remain chemicals that are part of the soap or household chemicals. They are detrimental to the life of the fish. Make sure your hands are clean and free from soap or lotion. Do not forget to turn off the filter and disconnect it from the aquarium, turn off other electrical devices before the cleaning process.
- Wash the tank walls
You can not use any detergent in order to wash the walls of the aquarium. Even cleaning in this way the outer side of it is detrimental to the health of fish. Traces of soil and algae can be cleaned with a special scraper, which easily cleans impurities. If it does not work with a scraper, try a blade. The outer part of the wall, including the cover, can be cleaned with a sponge or cloth moistened with water. There are special solutions for washing aquariums that are safe for pets. They are sold in pet stores.
See how to clean aquarium glass from overgrown dirt and algae.
- Siphon water part
You should leave some of the water in the aquarium, which is also useful to the fish. Sudden changes in water conditions at once are too harmful. You can use the type of siphon that you have. Follow the instructions included with the instrument to achieve optimum results.
Drain the water in a bucket, bowl or sink with a siphon with a hose.
* Be careful when pumping water from the tank. Be careful that the fish, plants and the ground do not disappear along with the dirt.
- Sorting decorations, sand or gravel at the bottom of the tank
The material lining the bottom of your tank should be cleaned so that any food, garbage and other waste can be removed. Instead of removing this material from the aquarium, washing it or replacing it, simply place a gravel vacuum on it. As long as it stays at the bottom of the tank, use a siphon to suction any material that should not be there.
- Cleaning plants, wooden decorations
In most cases, you can clean all the accessories in the tank with an algae scraper, but if they are too dirty, it is best to take them out of the tank and wash them in a clean sink. Do not use soap or any other cleaner. In some cases, a solution of water and salt (for decoration) is used. Let the scenery dry before putting it back into the tank.
- Pour new water
Once you have done everything to clean the aquarium, you can pour clean water into it, or use a siphon hose to pump water from a bucket or bowl. Connect the heating and lighting.
What if you can't wash the filter while cleaning the rest of the aquarium? It is impossible to clean the filter with all the decorations and water at once, it can be to the detriment of all fish and plants due to a sharp change in the balance of the aquatic environment. Two or three times a month the filter can be disassembled independently and cleaned with a toothbrush. But properly clean the filter in this way, which is listed in the instructions for its use.
See how to clean the internal aquarium filter.
Keep the aquarium clean
In order to maintain the ability to see the fish through the glass, you should wash the tank about once every 1-2 weeks. So you can prevent the formation of large algae and organic matter, formed as a result of the vital activity of fish. Some algae and non-decaying organics are harvested with the help of the “orderlies” of the aquarium - catfish or snails. Of course, this will depend on the conditions of your aquarium and how much fish already lives in it.
How to change the water in the aquarium with fish?
The fish living in the aquarium require constant maintenance of a certain composition of water, and, despite the filtration and aeration carried out, there comes a time when you have to change the water in the aquarium. This is a mandatory process, which can be carried out in part or in full.
Novice aquarists wonder: how to change the water in the aquarium with fish, should it be defended? It is advisable to check the tap water for the content of harmful substances in it, and if they are present, the water should be defended for three days, and the use of special cleansing compositions is also permissible. If you do not do this, you can simultaneously change no more than 20% of the composition of the water in the aquarium.
Replacing the full amount of established water in the aquarium, and forming a particular ecosystem, should be extremely rare, it negatively affects the fish and plants, they are difficult to get used to the new water and often die. Even making a partial replacement of water, it is worthwhile to worry about maintaining its temperature, as well as gas and salt composition.
If there is a need to completely change the water in the aquarium, you should temporarily relocate all living organisms to another tank, completely clean the aquarium, fill it with settled water, and after a few days when the biological balance is restored, return the fish and plants to their original place.
Features of the water change for the aquarium with cockerel fish
Cockerel fishes best of all feel in big aquariums, water in which not less than 27 degrees. How to change the water in the aquarium with cockerel fish? There are no special requirements, you just need to know that this fish does not need frequent changes of water. In this case, the cock carries both soft and hard water. Changing the cockpit water to a new one, it is necessary to add the old part, while necessarily observing the temperature regime. At the time of water replacement, the fish should be deposited in another container.
Causes of water turbidity and how to deal with it
Muddy water in an aquarium is a common phenomenon that almost every aquarist has encountered. Sometimes the causes of the problem are found quickly, and sometimes it takes a long time to figure out why the water has become cloudy. How to deal with the formation of turbidity, what is recommended to do and what is not?
When does water appear in the water?
The causes of muddy water in an aquarium can be varied, and it is not as easy to deal with them as it seems at first glance.
- Turbidity can occur due to swimming in the pond of small particles of algae, solid organics and cyanobacteria. There is another unobtrusive reason - poor washing of the aquarium soil and inaccurate pouring water from a clean tank. This type of turbidity does not threaten the water and the fish, you can do nothing with it. After some time, the muddy part of the water will settle, or seep into the filter, remaining there. The formation of turbidity can provoke fish who love to plow the ground, but these actions for the reservoir are completely harmless.
- Turbid water in an aquarium can be caused by cichlids, goldfish and tail finch fish - their active movement in a reservoir is the cause of the resulting turbidity. If a filter is not installed in the tank, it will be difficult to clean the water.
- Often, muddy water appears after the first start of the aquarium, after the fresh water inlet. Nothing to do, in a day or two the sediment will fall to the ground and disappear. The mistake of novice aquarists is a partial or complete renewal of water, which is considered a gross error. When adding new water to a newly launched aquarium, the bacteria will become even more! If the aquarium is small, you can install a sponge filter that quickly cleans the pond.
Watch the video about the device and the operation of the internal filter.
- Malicious bacteria in an aquarium can also be causes of turbidity. When the water becomes green, then it's time to draw conclusions - this is an unnatural color. Muddy and green water is formed due to overcrowding of the aquarium with fish or plants. That is, the aquarium fluid passes through the filter, but is not cleaned. The abundance of metabolic products provokes the formation of putrefactive microorganisms, ciliates and other unicellular. If ciliates are beneficial, the bacteria can harm the plants - they will start to rot. In order not to be surprised why fish and plants often get sick - watch the aquarium clean and tidy.
- Why still breed single-celled? Because you do not have time to clean the tank after heavy feeding. For aquarism it is better to underfeed than to feed. This rule will protect the fish from problems. After overfeeding again the water got cloudy - what to do? Arrange a pet unloading diet for a couple of days, the bacteria will die out, the water biobalance will be restored.
- Incorrectly installed decoration. Snags, plastic materials of poor quality dissolve in water, forming a muddy shade. If the scenery is new wooden, but untreated - they can be boiled or infused in salt solution. Plastic snags should be replaced with new ones.
- In the old, stagnant nursery with fish sediment is formed due to "whiteness after fish treatment", this is when drugs and purification chemistry for aquarium glass were used in the pond. Such substances have a number of side effects, they disrupt the biological equilibrium, neutralizing the favorable microflora.
How to overcome turbidity in water?
Now we know the reasons why the water grows cloudy in the aquarium, and what to do in each case. However, there are general rules, without which it is impossible to completely eliminate the problem.
- Siphonte the ground in the aquarium. Open the filter, rinse and clean. Then add activated carbon to it - this needs to be done to absorb harmful substances. It is forbidden to make a complete replacement of water and washing the aquarium soil, otherwise the beneficial bacteria will die out and will not be able to process rot and algae.
See how to siphon the soil in the aquarium.
- In some cases, it is necessary to do an intensive aeration of the aquarium - when there are a lot of fish feed residues and a fasting day is not enough. Oxygen will quickly remove excess organic matter.
- If an unpleasant smell disappears in an aquarium, it means that the struggle with mist is over successfully. Also for elimination of bacterial turbidity it is possible to use elodeya, having landed it superficially in a ground.
Dregs in the water: types
The color of cloudiness will tell about the sources of its formation:
- The water color is greenish - single-celled algae reproduce;
- Brown water - peat, humic and tannins, poorly processed snags;
- Milky white color - unicellular bacteria begin to multiply;
- The color of the water coincides with the color of the soil or of a stone recently laid on it, which means that the soil was plowed by fish, or the stone turned out to be fragile.
Drugs that prevent the appearance of a cloudy precipitate
- Aquarium coal is absorbent, which is added after cleaning the tank to the filter for a period of 2 weeks. After extraction, you can fill in a new batch there.
- Tetra Aqua CrystalWater is a tool that binds small particles of dirt into one, after which they can be removed or passed through a filter. After 8-12 hours the reservoir will be crystal clear. Dosage - 100 ml per 200 liters of water.
- Sera Aquaria Clear - also binds sediment particles, passing it through the filter. During the day, dirt can be removed from the cassette. The drug does not contain harmful substances.
- Before adding sorbents to water, it is better to move the fish to another container.
In order to avoid turbid water, it is necessary to control the level of nitrates, nitrites and ammonia. They stand out as a result of the vital activity of fish, plants and improper care of the water body. Therefore, fish should be settled in the tank, the size of which corresponds to its volume. Proper feeding of pets, timely cleaning of the products of their vital activity, removal of rotten plants will settle the water balance. If there is no mechanical or biological filter in the aquarium, replace 30% of the water weekly with fresh and sedimented. Do not add water from the pipeline with the smell of chlorine or boiled.
See also: What water to pour into the aquarium with fish?
What to do if a guppy dies?
Unfortunately, sooner or later aquarium fish die. The most common cause is the wear and tear of the body, as a result - its old age. Life expectancy depends on many factors, but it has been proven that large fish live longer than small ones. As for guppies, they belong to small fish, which can grow 5-7 cm in length in an aquarium. Live relatively short: 3-5 years. Why are these fish dying in the aquarium?
Causes of Poecilia reticulata death: water pollution
Guppies (Poecilia reticulata, Guppy) suddenly die one after another? Then you need to do something to prevent the death of other fish. Sometimes razvodchiki go to specialty stores, buy funds or drugs, but nothing helps. If the cause is not found, it will be difficult to eliminate the effect. The main reason for the death of many fish in the home aquarium is poor housing conditions, namely, dirty, inadequate water. Poecilia reticulata is no exception.
Recommended parameters for guppy content: temperature 22-26 ° C, pH 7.0-8.5 pH, hardness 10-18 °. With sharp changes in environmental conditions, the fish will start to hurt. Also, in the absence of weekly replacements of 20% of water with fresh and clean water, guppies will actually breathe their own waste. The lack of high-quality filtration and aeration will also negatively affect fish life.
Watch the video with guppy content recommendations.
Increased concentrations of ammonia, nitrates and nitrites lead to exhaustion of the fish. They can become poisoned with harmful substances suddenly, if the aquarist does not notice the smell of rot, turbidity of water. What should be done in this case? It is important to purify water from impurities with the help of special harmless substances that are sold in stores, or a filter. Completely replace the water should not, but only part of it.
Another reason why the young guppies in the aquarium do not die in time is the unprepared water. Do not run fish into a tank with chlorine-rich water. She should insist 4 days before pouring into the container. You can use dechlorinator, which is sold in some pet stores.
Pay attention to the state of the filter - on the sponge breeding good bacteria that fight against toxic substances and microbes. The main thing is to timely clean the filter filler and replace it if necessary. Disruption of biological balance can lead to a sharp deterioration in the health of fish.
Over-feeding guppies can also cause them to die. Not eaten feed splits, forming ammonium vapors. If you put the fish on a fasting day, at least once a week, and remove leftover food, you can fix the problem. On the day of harvesting, make measurements of the level of nitrates and ammonium, the pH and hardness of water, the level of CO2 and oxygen. If the level of toxic substances is 2 ppm or more, you need to replace 50% of the water, but not immediately, but within a few days. Over time, the microflora will recover. You can not use antibiotics to combat ammonia, otherwise you can destroy all the good bacteria.
Although guppies are considered hardy fish, but under the wrong conditions of the aquatic environment, they can get sick. Diseases are another reason why these fish die in the aquarium.The infection enters the water with poor-quality food, sick fish and infected plants, and then rapidly multiplies in dirty water. A terrible infectious disease of guppy is tuberculosis, or mycobacteriosis. Unfortunately, it is not treated: the fish must be destroyed, and the entire aquarium is strictly disinfected.
The parasitic ciliate Trichodina Modesta can cause the disease trichodynia. Treatment of fish is possible with the help of methylene blue, trypaflavin, attorney salt and other medical preparations. Most often, fry and young fish die from the disease.
Long-tailed guppies with veiled fins can get the so-called "red scab". This deformation is visible on the reddish coating on the tail, later its rays will flake off. In case of delayed treatment, the tail will be "eaten." In this case, you need to do a mechanical trimming of the damaged part of the fin, and add chloramphenicol or salt to the water.
Acclimatization and improper compatibility as a result of the death of fish
If newly purchased fish suddenly die in an aquarium, they probably could not adapt to the conditions of their new environment. Water temperature, acidity and hardness of the new aquarium should be similar to those in which they lived before the purchase. Before you run the fish in a common tank, put them in a two-week quarantine. The difference in pH and dH by one unit can kill the fish. What should be done in order for guppies to transfer new conditions?
Place the portable bag with the purchased fish in a new water, pin it to the glass with a pin. You can run a weak aeration aquarium. After 10-20 minutes you can add a little aquarium water to the bag. It is recommended to repeat the procedure every 15 minutes. After 1.5 hours, you can release the fish in the otsadnik. You can add anti-stress drugs and some feed to the water.
See how to properly transplant fish in the aquarium.
Sharp temperature changes in the aquarium should be avoided. Do not make too frequent water changes, and no more than 30% of the total volume of the tank. Siphon the soil in a timely manner, remove and process boiled water contaminated scenery.
What else are killed aquarium guppies? Perhaps a few novice aqurahumists guess about such a problem as the wrong settlement. And, most surprisingly, other Guppy can be the cause of death. Unsuccessful settlement implies a close environment, incompatibility of characters, disproportion of the number of males and females in the aquarium. If all the males are killed in the kennel, it means that there are too many females on them, or there was a fight between the males in tight territory.
Choose a spacious 50-liter tank for one fish to settle the guppy. On one male settle 1-3 females. Install reliable shelters, plant plants that would prevent conflict situations. Also settle Poecilia reticulate with small, peaceful fishes. Related viviparous fish are their best neighbors (swordtails, mollies and petilia). Do not settle the fish with aggressive, fast and predatory fish. It happens that guppies die of stress and physical exhaustion.
Noticed that the fish jump out of the aquarium, and die right on the floor? Most likely, there is not enough aeration in the water, the fish have experienced a jitter, or the water quality is inadequate. To avoid such a problem, check the behavior of all the inhabitants of the nursery, make measurements of the state of the water.