How to run the fish in the aquarium after purchase


How to run the fish in the aquarium :: run the fish in the aquarium :: Aquarium fish

Tip 1: How to run the fish in the aquarium

Many dream of having a little piece of the underwater kingdom at home. The aquarium allows not only to contemplate the beautiful, but also to join the amazing world of underwater inhabitants, to learn a lot of new and interesting things from their life.

The question "opened a pet shop. Business is not going. What to do?" - 2 answers


1. So you decided to start an aquarium. First of all, study the literature on aquarism, decide what type of aquarium you want to buy and what fish you want to keep in it.

2. Do not rush to buy everything at once. First you need to purchase the technical part: the aquarium itself, a filter and an aerator, a light, a heater, a thermometer. Then you need to choose the soil, plants and snails (if you plan to start them). Fish at this stage is not worth buying, you first need to equip them with a house.

3. Install the aquarium, pour the washed soil into it, fill the tank with 1/3 of the distilled tap water. Install hardware. Then plant the plants, put decorations on the ground in the form of embossed stones, specially prepared snags, sculptures. Fill the aquarium with water and connect all the equipment. Now you can run a few snails.

4. After that, the aquarium begins to "ripen." Water is colonized by microflora, various chemical and physical processes occur. During this period, the water is not suitable for settling fish. It is necessary to wait until it dims (this is a natural process), and then again becomes transparent. As a rule, "maturation" lasts about one to two weeks.

5. The process can be accelerated with the help of various water conditioners that are sold in pet stores. After the water becomes crystal clear, you can go for the fish.

6. When choosing fish, their compatibility should be considered, as well as similarity in keeping conditions (hardness, water temperature, illumination, etc.). It is also necessary to correctly calculate the number of fish in your aquarium so that all inhabitants feel comfortable.

7. Try to buy fish in a pet store, which is located near the house, since transportation over long distances has a negative effect on their well-being.

8. Arriving home do not rush to run new tenants in the aquarium. First rinse the bag with fish under running water, and then place it in the aquarium to equalize the temperature. After 10 minutes, add a bag of fish with aquarium water to equalize the chemical composition and wait another 15 minutes. After that, carefully release the fish to the new house.

9. At first, the fish may become clogged under a filter or plants - this is a normal reaction to a change of scenery. Give them a little look around and come to their senses, then feed them a little. A few days later the fish will get used to the new conditions of detention, and you will be able to watch the little underwater world in all its glory!

Tip 2: How to run the fish in a new aquarium

Have you decided to purchase a new aquarium and have prepared it to receive new inhabitants? Please note: you cannot run all the fish there at once, as this can lead to dramatic consequences for both individuals and for the entire aquarium ecosystem.


1. Thoroughly clean the aquarium with baking soda and salt. Avoid using detergents, as their residues on the walls of the aquarium can harm plants and fish.

2. Place the aquarium on a perfectly flat surface so that the glass does not show cracks due to fluid pressure on one of its walls.

3. Lay the soil, pre-rinsing and boiling it. The thickness of the soil layer should be at least 5 centimeters.

4. Install equipment for normal functioning of the aquarium. Such equipment includes:
- the filter necessary to clean the aquarium from waste;
- a compressor that will saturate the aquarium water with oxygen;
- A heater for heating water during the cold season;
- thermometer to monitor water temperature.

5. Having installed the equipment, start planting. Be careful not to plunge the growing point into the ground, otherwise the plant roots will stick out in different directions.

6. Having thus prepared the ecosystem of the aquarium, fill it with water. Use only tap water, do not bring water from rivers and ponds, as it may contain dangerous bacteria and heavy metal particles. Wait 2 weeks.

7. If your fish live in natural conditions in the same climatic zone, launch all at once into the aquarium, but if they are natives of different latitudes, then when sharing your neighbors you are unlikely to be able to avoid victims. In any case, it is better to run the fish in batches so that they gradually get used to the aquarium ecosystem.

8. Quarantine each subsequent batch up to several weeks. Before starting the next group, gradually change the chemical composition of the water in the tank in which your pets are "on overexposure." Within a few hours, gradually pour water into the transit tank with the fish there and carefully observe their behavior. When you start each next batch of fish do not need to feed, they are at this point not to eat.


Run the aquarium correctly - The first task of the aquarist Many reference books and manuals tell you how to run an aquarium. But in order to apply this knowledge gained in practice, it is not enough to increase the number of all the components necessary for the livelihood of an aquarium in proportion to its size, area and the number of its future inhabitants. And even, at first glance, a successful launch can turn into frustration and death of the inhabitants of the aquarium.

This happens because the created aqua-system is not supported properly and its initial parameters are lost. To avoid this, the aquarist should understand the processes of this small ecosystem. It is worth noting that the larger the ecosystem, the easier it is to maintain balance in it. Of course, the number of fish and other organisms living in it plays an important role in its sustainability, but often for the sake of diversity it is necessary to manage to maintain rather fragile ecosystems.

What you need to do before launch?

Even before the launch procedure, it is necessary to solve a number of critical issues and take some necessary steps:

  1. Decide what kind of fish or aquatic animals you want to have. Find out what conditions they need. Be sure to find out if they are compatible with each other!
  2. Depending on the decisions on the first item, choose the volume and model of the aquarium, as well as a list of necessary equipment and design items. Based on the species and number of future inhabitants, decide whether you need a heater with a thermostat, for example, how powerful the filter should be, whether an additional compressor is needed, how to decorate an aquarium: stones or driftwood, which plants to plant, and so on.
  3. Choose a place for the aquarium - not in the draft and not in the sun. It is also important that access to the aquarium was convenient, and there were a sufficient number of outlets nearby.
  4. Buy and install an aquarium (necessarily on a flat surface, so that its edges do not hang from the shelf or pedestal even per centimeter). Pre-aquarium washed without the use of chemical detergents.
  5. Place the equipment in the aquarium: filter, compressor, heater and thermometer, lighting. Fill the soil with a layer of 3-4 cm. Depending on the type of soil and its source of origin, it may be necessary to pre-heat it, boil it or rinse it. The same applies to stones and snags.Ground and scenery.
    As a rule, the entire future ecosystem of your aquarium depends on the purity of the soil and scenery. Therefore, it is necessary to treat its processing especially carefully: rinse well with soda or sea salt, boil the soil, and ruthlessly refuse it, if the water suddenly becomes colored - this can further harm the fish. The most optimal soil size -3-5-8 mm.
  6. All that is smaller - caking and sour very quickly, larger - it is harder to clean and rinse. Yes, and plants on coarse soil will be a little more difficult to root. As a rule, if live plants are planned in your aquarium, it is advisable to place a nutrient composition for future vegetation under the ground, and the ground itself should be dispersed on a slope from the back wall to the front.
  7. This is done taking into account certain optical properties of aquarium glasses, because through the thickness of glass and water the aquarium landscape looks somewhat different. When decorating and setting up housing for your future pets, do not get carried away with sea shells and pieces of limestone - the entire chemical composition will gradually be washed out and excessively alkaline the water, which also may not well affect the health of future fish. and other decoration elements are installed,
    it's time to fill your pond with water. If an aquarium is planned to be in the form of an air wall in the aquarium, it is also worthwhile to think in advance whether it will lie on the ground, or whether it should be fixed under the ground at the bottom. Water is poured in a small trickle, so as not to destroy the landscape that you conceived. For example, you can put a small tank in an aquarium into which water will flow, and it will merge gradually over the edge. Plants.
    A few days later, when the water settles, it's time to plant the plants. Of course, if you are in a hurry, water can be prepared with the help of special tools, now there is an excellent choice and variety in pet stores. But it is quite possible to do without chemistry, allowing the ecosystem to develop naturally and independently. But then it will take time. Before planting, all new plants that you have brought from the store or another aquarium should be sanitized. To do this, it is enough to hold the plants for 10-15 minutes in a pale pink solution of potassium permanganate at room temperature. Tall plants, densely growing, are best planted closer to the rear window of the aquarium, and in the future they will partially hide the equipment. Small plants are planted near the front glass so that they do not obscure the view. Not all plants root well. Some of them, in order not to emerge, have to be weighed down with special "weights", or they must be fastened with fishing line on snags.

    It is not necessary to load your future aqua-system with a large amount of equipment, but the main points must still be observed:
    Filter pump. Its main function is the purification of water from dirt, turbidity and all that floats in water. The filter can be internal, as a very primitive, consisting of a piece of sponge, and more complex - with carbon filtration, and external - with a complex multi-stage water purification system. The main thing is that it should be correctly selected for the volume of your aquarium, and cope with the task of cleaning.
    Initially, the water is always quite turbid. This is a normal process, and if the filter is matched correctly in volume - it will cope with this within a few hours.
    But soon after planting in your tank, complex biological processes will begin, and the water will again lose transparency: bacteria will begin to develop on the dying parts of the plants, ciliates will follow them ... In general, as in Cosmos, Life will begin to originate in the aquarium. That is why experienced aquarists are not in a hurry to start running the fish right away - biological balance must be established in the water. The rapid growth of microorganisms will stop, and the water will again become transparent.
    Sometimes experienced aquarists are advised to take some water from old aquariums, or "squeeze" out of their filters. But even if the old aquarium fish are not sick, it does not mean that the water is free from pathogens. Most likely in this system everything is already settled, and the fish have developed a certain stability. But in the new conditions, pathogens can start to develop very actively. Therefore, do not do this.
    Aerator, or compressor. His task is to saturate the water with oxygen. In essence, a compressor is a pump that pumps air and delivers it to the water through the nozzles. But at the same time, it also has a decorative function. Therefore, it is decided in advance whether it will be a thin stream of bubbles, decorated additionally or a whole air curtain. The choice of sprayers and compressors is now huge!
    Lighting will depend on which direction of the aquarium you have chosen. If you plan to fish with artificial plants - the quantity and quality of light is not important, everything will depend on your taste. If you have live plants, there is no way to do without additional lighting. Most often, aquariums are already sold with fluorescent lamps when sold, but for plants the most optimal will be lamps with a pink spectrum.
    As a rule, if there is enough light, the plants quickly take root and actively start growing.
    If the light is not enough, the glass and the ground are covered with brown bloom, if there is an excess of light, the water turns green.
    You can put the lighting with a timer. Then you won’t have a headache - did you remember to turn the lights on or off ...

    Heater with thermostat. As a rule, aquarium fish, like other aquarium animals, live in nature in warm lands, and are not adapted to the climate of our (not always well heated) apartments. The optimum temperature is mostly 22-24 degrees, and in some species and higher. Therefore, a heater with a thermostat is very convenient - just set the required temperature.
    Without a heater is still not enough if the fish suddenly fall ill. With an increase in temperature in the aquarium to 28-30 degrees, treatment with drugs is faster and more efficient, and in a shorter time.

    The aquarium is equipped, the plants are planted and are actively growing, the water has settled in a week and has become clear ... It's time to think about the fish.
    But first check the water.
    Water hardness test. Different groups of fish prefer different hardness. Based on the test results, you can pick up fish that you will feel comfortable with, or vice versa, change the water hardness for those fish that you have chosen.
    There are also other tests. All of them are important in order to find your way in time, what is the state of water in your tank, and what needs to be changed to make the fish feel good.

    With the parameters of the water coped, finally you can run the first batch of fish. Initially, they should not be many: 3-5 fish, depending on the size of the aquarium. Each new portion of fish necessarily breaks the existing balance, and the aquarium, as a complete biosystem, is easier to cope with the arrival of a small number of residents than to rebuild under a big surge of guests. But between the launch of the next portion of fish should take at least a week. So, with intervals between batches, we gradually settle the aquarium, without forgetting
    before releasing the fish adapt.
    How to properly adapt?
    Many people advise you to put a tank with new fish “swim” in your aquarium so that the temperature and pressure level up, and gradually the water mixes with the aquarium. Yes, for fish so stress is reduced to a minimum, but then you risk on a package with beginners to bring pathogenic bacteria into your tank. Much more correct, although it will be somewhat longer in time if you place a tank with a new fish near your aquarium. Having installed the compressor, within two hours it is necessary to add 20% of water from your aquarium into it every 10-15 minutes. So the water will gradually be completely replaced by the desired composition. After that, it will be enough just to transplant fish with a net.
    Finally, the planned number of fish settled, the balance of water restored, life enters a quiet course. Do not forget to make them fasting days, as the plants are not yet ready to fully process organic food residues. And in the future, such discharge once a week will only benefit. It is always better to underfeed than to overfeed.
    Water changes are advisable to do regularly, every week about 20% of the total.

    So, if your fish is active, the color does not become paler, and the appetite does not suffer - it means you did everything right. We congratulate you! You have created a piece of nature with your own hands and patience, which will give you a lot of pleasant moments, give beauty, comfort and peace.

    Quite a bit of theory

    The aquarium is an open-loop system, where various substances come in from the outside. This is mainly fish food, which the fish eat, while releasing waste. In chemical terms, ammonia is the most significant and toxic part of this waste; even in low concentrations, it can cause poisoning and subsequent death of fish and other aquatic animals. Однако в природе существуют бактерии (они называются нитрифицирующие), которые потребляют аммиак, окисляя его до нитритов. Нитриты для рыб не намного лучше аммиака, но есть другие виды нитрифицирующих бактерий, связывающие в свою очередь и их, превращая в относительно безобидные нитраты.

    Вся эта система бактериальных колоний, которая делает из ядовитой аммиачной воды воду с нитратами, вполне пригодную для жизни рыб, носит название биофильтра. Since the efficiency of the biofilter directly depends on the number of its constituent bacteria in the aquarium (it is clear that two or three microscopic nitrosomonas cannot convert ammonia, selected by a dozen large goldfish, into safe compounds), these bacteria must be allowed to multiply to the desired number. For this they need three things:

    • nutrition (ammonia and nitrite);
    • substrate (surface to which they can attach);
    • and for some time, as bacteria multiply rapidly, but still not lightning
    • Nitrogen cycle The decomposition products of fish and other macro-organisms living in an aquarium, when decomposed, are converted into ammonia, which is dangerous for them at even low concentrations. This is such a toxic compound that its concentration at the level of 0.2-0.5 mg / l is fatal for the inhabitants of the reservoir, and when the content of ammonia in the water in a proportion of 0.01-0.02 mg / l in fish, immunity is significantly reduced. As a result, they become very vulnerable to all sorts of diseases and parasites. Proper start-up of the aquarium is aimed at ensuring that microorganisms inhabiting the water could process the entire volume of ammonia. Then it practically will not be in the aquarium, which can be verified with the help of special tests.
    • The role of bacteria in the nitrogen cycle The preparation of the aquarium for start-up must be carried out primarily because in the new aquarium the volume of ammonia grows very quickly and the fish, getting into such conditions in most cases either die immediately or start to hurt. In this case, only the restart of the aquarium can help. The process of reproduction of beneficial bacteria can be accelerated in several ways. Traditional: add water and dirt from the old one to the new aquarium. Along with them will be made a significant number of bacteria, which then inhabit all of its volume. If there is no other aquarium, the bacteria can be bought at a regular pet store. The process of their reproduction is accompanied by the appearance of the effect of turbid water. Launching a new aquarium for the first time, at this time you can make a big mistake: change the water. This is not necessary. The water will become clear again after a couple of days. The initial stage of the aquarium start-up cycle averages two weeks, during which the number of bacteria increases, but not as rapidly as in the first days. The overgrown population of bacteria successfully processes ammonia into nitrites, which are also toxic, but to a much lesser extent. Other beneficial bacteria recycle nitrites and they are converted to nitrates, which are also toxic. Both nitrites and nitrates can reach a critical volume when they adversely affect fish. To avoid further restarting the aquarium, which is also associated with significant inconveniences, it is better to carry out a slow launch of the aquarium from the first time and not rush to populate it with fish
    • .The role of filters in the nitrogen cycle filter for cleaning External and internal filters are installed in aquariums. They are divided into those that carry out mechanical purification of water from protein suspensions, and there are biofilters. The main function performed by biofilters is to create conditions for the successful reproduction of bacteria, which should always be in water in large quantities.
    • They populate the filling filter, as a rule, porous materials. Together with water, they receive oxygen and food in the form of protein deposits. The launch of a new aquarium is accompanied by another event: the connection of the biofilter. When you turn on the filter in the first few weeks (up to a month) the amount of nitrite and nitrate in the water increases. This factor during the first start of the aquarium in inexperienced aquarists often causes the death of fish, which is simply poisoned by toxic substances.

Run the aquarium from scratch. Preparation and proper launch of a new aquarium: step by step instructions

The launch of a new aquarium is carried out after all the decorations, soil and plants have been purchased. This process, contrary to general delusion, does not begin with the purchase of fish and involves carrying out five preparatory stages. The lion's share of success depends on the purchase of all the necessary equipment. It must be of high quality and resistant to wear, as some systems will operate around the clock.

Selection rules

Starting the aquarium from scratch should start with the choice of the tank itself. If the aquarist is a beginner, it is preferable to choose medium-sized models, the volume of which varies from 80 to 200 liters. Such a step makes it easy to maintain biological balance in comparison with small containers. The step-by-step start-up of the aquarium, described below, will help to avoid problems.


All filters are divided into two large categories - external and internal. Beginners who launch the aquarium from scratch are encouraged to acquire good internal ones, which will also save. Manufacturers indicate how much water filter is designed, so it is almost impossible to make a mistake. However, experts recommend choosing such equipment with a small margin.

Heater with thermostat

This device maintains a comfortable temperature for all participants in the system. Manufacturers also indicate the recommended volume on the package. When starting the aquarium from scratch, the choice is usually not difficult.


A special beam spectrum is an important condition for the full existence of aquatic plants. They grow well under special-purpose lamps with intense lighting. On average, one liter of water requires a power of 0.6 V, that is, at least 60 V per one hundred liters, and all 90 is better.

When there is a launch of the aquarium from scratch, it should be noted that the daylight should be the same. Automation perfectly copes with this (special timers).


Experienced aquarists recommend to give preference to a special film of black or dark blue color, you can also pull on the tablet, commensurate with the parameters of the rear window, the fabric of the desired shade. It is this background that will perfectly emphasize the beauty. Split glossy photographic backgrounds are not the best choice; launching an aquarium with plants can be ruined.

Carbon dioxide saturation system

In the daytime, carbon dioxide is necessary for all the vegetation of the system to grow, especially if there are a lot of fish there. It is recommended to pay close attention to CO2 parameters. It is recommended to establish a saturation system after stabilization of biological equilibrium, including when there is a launch of an aquarium with plants.


The product must be durable. Weight stolitrovogo aquarium is 140 kg. You can purchase a special cabinet or adapt existing furniture. The aquarium, the photo of which is presented below, is installed on the cabinet correctly.

Run Stage One: Verification

First of all, it is necessary to determine if the tank is leaking. To do this, it is placed in the bath, preferably on a flat surface. The aquarium is filled with running water up to half the volume, after a day it is completely filled. Such a test is carried out in any capacity vessels - only this way it can be understood if the glass will burst and the product will carry the first launch. After checking the water is drained, it is better to wash the tank. The aquarium is installed on the cabinet.

Run Stage Two: Ground

As a rule, the soil is represented by gravel of the fine fraction, which is suitable for most plants. Before you put it in the aquarium, it is better to conduct a heat treatment, for example, boiling. After that, most of the soil is mixed with the starting fertilizer.

The base is laid out neatly on the bottom in an even layer, the height of which should not be less than 4 cm. In some cases it is advisable to arrange an uneven layer: small at the front glass, gradually rising to the rear wall. It is better to immediately plan the places where the plants will be located. At this stage, it is important to do everything correctly to avoid further refinements. When choosing a place where plantings will be located, it is better to focus on lighting and remoteness from heating appliances. Artificial and natural decorations are placed on the ground.

Run Stage Three: Installation of Equipment

The heater-thermostat, pump with filter are brought to the aquarium. Technique is still unconnected.

Run Stage Four: Planting Plants

When placing living vegetation should be guided by these recommendations:

  • Near the rear wall are large plantations.
  • In the middle part, it is customary to plant smaller specimens.
  • In the foreground - the smallest, they will be closest to the observer.

Beginners should choose inexpensive, viable plants, such as valisneria or hornpole. Such instances help to quickly establish a balance, after which they can be replaced. In addition, a special bacterial starter can be used to accelerate the stabilization of the biological balance. It is introduced into the water according to the instructions. Plants when planting should be constantly sprayed with a spray.

Run Stage Five: Gulf of Water and Connection

Water can be used the most simple - plumbing. It must be allowed to stand in order for the chlorine to completely evaporate. If you do not want to wait, you can buy bottled drinking water.

To prevent erosion of the soil, a saucer is placed on its bottom. The flow of incoming water should fall on him. Aquarium is full. Then you can turn on the equipment. It is necessary to immediately check how the filters function, heating, what temperature level is established in the system. The filter should work all the time, it can not be disabled. After a few weeks, the inside of the device creates its own bacterial environment, which becomes a biological filter. If you turn it off, the bacteria will quickly die without oxygen and fresh water. Their place will immediately be replaced by anaerobic microorganisms that produce hydrogen sulphide and methane - from them the whole system will cease to function.

The final check should take place seven days after launch. In the first days of work, the water in the aquarium will become muddy, as part of the plants will die off, and the bacteria will begin to multiply rapidly. The activity of microorganisms normalizes this process over time, and it will be possible to talk about the stabilization of the internal biosystem. Only then the tank is ready to receive fish. It will take about a month to complete the formation of an environment where every resident will feel well. One fish should be about 10 liters of water.

How to run the fish

A week after the start of the launch, it is desirable to increase the lighting time of the aquarium to 12 hours. At this time, you can run unpretentious species of fish in an amount not exceeding one third of the allowable for such a population size. It is important that with the proper launch of the fish at this time should remain hungry - it is absolutely harmless for them. Feeding can disrupt the nitrogen cycle, resulting in the need to restart. Food fish can get after four days.

A few days later, the aquarium may be populated by half of the population. During this period, you can run more capricious fish. After seven days you can run all the fish.

If the house has soft water, you should choose those inhabitants who prefer this pH level, and vice versa. The aquarium, the photo of which is presented below, is launched absolutely correctly and delights with its beauty.

Marine type

Starting a new aquarium may be difficult if it is of a marine type. All stages are similar to the previous ones, but water requires special preparation. It must be treated with reverse osmosis, and then settled for three days. After that, the salt concentration is brought to the required level.

When the optimum salt balance, density and temperature of water are reached, you can fill up the ground: sand or coral chips. Further, in the system, you can place live stones, plant corals, decorate the bottom with shells. A week later, you should check the performance of nitrite and ammonium in water. A month after the water preparation, it is possible to launch the fish in the marine aquarium.

Rules successful aquarist

  • you need to purchase only healthy fish in trusted stores;
  • fish can not be overfed;
  • it is better to check regularly how all systems work;
  • the fish must have sufficient living space;
  • fish living in the same system must be compatible;
  • nitrogen cycle support;
  • periodic filter cleaning;
  • even a beginner needs to know what is water hardness, pH, buffer capacity;
  • a regular partial replacement of water is necessary, even if the first launch of the aquarium occurred less than two weeks ago.

Instead of conclusion

The rapid launch of the aquarium in 99% of cases does not lead to the desired results, it is often necessary to repeat the cycle of preparation. A beginner aquarist must be patient in order for the system to stabilize and fully function.

The question of how to prepare an aquarium for launching has become very relevant lately. Many families want to get beautiful fish that will swim surrounded by vegetation. However, the maintenance of the system requires a certain amount of effort from the owner, which is better to take into account at the stage of making the decision to install an aquarium. In addition, we must not forget about the need for fixed costs for the maintenance of the system, including the purchase of fish food, replacement filters, etc.

Running aquarium

Many, wanting to get an aquarium, believe that the fish - those pets that bring the least trouble. And only experienced aquarists know that this is far from true. Many people are convinced by their own experience that launching an aquarium is a complex process that is built up depending on a large number of factors. However, those who start, making the first launch of the aquarium, do not even suspect about all the stages that should precede such a joyful event as the launch of fish.

Start the aquarium correctly - the first task of the aquarist

Many reference books and manuals tell you how to run an aquarium. But in order to apply this knowledge gained in practice, it is not enough to increase the number of all the components necessary for the livelihood of an aquarium in proportion to its size, area and the number of its future inhabitants.

And even, at first glance, a successful launch can turn into frustration and death of the inhabitants of the aquarium. This happens because the created aqua-system is not supported properly and its initial parameters are lost.

To avoid this, the aquarist should understand the processes of this small ecosystem. It is worth noting that the larger the ecosystem, the easier it is to maintain balance in it. Of course, the number of fish and other organisms living in it plays an important role in its sustainability, but often for the sake of diversity it is necessary to manage to maintain rather fragile ecosystems.

Ground, plants and snails: first

Preparation of the aquarium for launch begins with the introduction of soil into it

The added tap water for some time should just be left in the aquarium so that it will settle. The duration of this period for supporters of traditional methods is several days. At the same time, there are special modern tools, adding which you can shorten this period to one day and carry out a quick launch of the aquarium.

Then the water is inhabited by microorganisms that are involved in the processes occurring in the water. To make this process faster, it is recommended to turn on the filter and saturate the water with air.

After the water is saturated with the simplest life, unpretentious plants are planted in the ground. And although some types of plants are quite acceptable to transfer the landing before filling the aquarium with water, it is better to do it after. Plants should not be much.

Together with the planting of plants, you can begin to turn on the light for a short time: 4-6 hours.

A day later it will be possible to launch snails into the aquarium. Thanks to the products of their vital activity, the number of bacteria will increase, which will help to establish equilibrium in the nitrogen cycle.

Only in 3 weeks from the moment of launch it will be possible to plant half of the total planned "green spaces". At this time, there will already be enough light for them, and they can no longer upset the balance.

We let out in an aquarium small fishes

Launching the aquarium, each owner is looking forward to the moment when it will be possible to run fish into it. After a few days from the very beginning of the process, it is possible to increase the lighting time of the aquarium to 9 or even 12 hours. At the same time, unpretentious types of fish are launched. Their number should not exceed one third of the population allowed for the selected aquarium volume. With the proper start of the aquarium, it is very important not to feed the fish at this time. It will not suffer from such a forced starvation diet, but it is easy to break the forming nitrogen cycle by feeding, which will lead to the need to restart the aquarium. Организовать питание рыбкам можно будет только через 4 дня после их пребывания в формирующейся экосистеме.

Еще через несколько дней после запуска первых рыбок можно заселить аквариум рыбками в половину от их предполагаемой численности. В это время уже можно выпустить более прихотливые виды рыбок - угроза для них минимальна.

В это же время уже стоит подменить пятую часть воды, а заодно и прочистить сифоном грунт. Также пришло время промыть фильтр.

Еще через неделю будут высажены все рыбки, снова сменено такое же количество воды, прочищен фильтр и очищен грунт.

Азотный цикл

Продукты жизнедеятельности рыб и других макро-организмов, живущих в аквариуме, при разложении преобразуются в аммиак, который для них опасен при даже малой концентрации. This is such a toxic compound that its concentration at the level of 0.2-0.5 mg / l is fatal for the inhabitants of the reservoir, and when the content of ammonia in the water in a proportion of 0.01-0.02 mg / l in fish, immunity is significantly reduced. As a result, they become very vulnerable to all sorts of diseases and parasites.

Proper start-up of the aquarium is aimed at ensuring that microorganisms inhabiting the water could process the entire volume of ammonia. Then it practically will not be in the aquarium, which can be verified with the help of special tests.

The role of bacteria in the nitrogen cycle

The preparation of the aquarium for start-up must be carried out primarily because in the new aquarium the volume of ammonia grows very quickly and the fish, getting into such conditions in most cases either die immediately or start to hurt. In this case, only the restart of the aquarium can help.

The process of reproduction of beneficial bacteria can be accelerated in several ways. Traditional: add water and dirt from the old one to the new aquarium. Along with them will be made a significant number of bacteria, which then inhabit all of its volume. If there is no other aquarium, the bacteria can be bought at a regular pet store. The process of their reproduction is accompanied by the appearance of the effect of turbid water. Launching a new aquarium for the first time, at this time you can make a big mistake: change the water. This is not necessary. The water will become clear again in a couple of days.

The initial stage of the aquarium start-up cycle averages two weeks, during which the number of bacteria increases, but not as rapidly as in the first days.

The overgrown population of bacteria successfully processes ammonia into nitrites, which are also toxic, but to a much lesser extent. Other beneficial bacteria recycle nitrites and they are converted to nitrates, which are also toxic. Both nitrites and nitrates can reach a critical volume when they adversely affect fish.

To avoid further restarting the aquarium, which is also associated with significant inconveniences, it is better to carry out a slow start of the aquarium from the first time and not rush to populate it with fish.

The role of filters in the nitrogen cycle

cleaning filter

External and internal filters are installed in aquariums. They are divided into those that carry out mechanical purification of water from protein suspensions, and there are biofilters.

The main function performed by biofilters is to create conditions for the successful reproduction of bacteria, which should always be in water in large quantities. They populate the filling filter, as a rule, porous materials. Together with water, they receive oxygen and food in the form of protein deposits. The launch of a new aquarium is accompanied by another event: the connection of the biofilter. When you turn on the filter in the first few weeks (up to a month) the amount of nitrite and nitrate in the water increases. This factor during the first start of the aquarium in inexperienced aquarists often causes the death of fish, which is simply poisoned by toxic substances.

Running Aquarium from A to Z

On the Internet there are a huge number of articles on the launch of the aquarium. Our site also has similar articles telling about installing an aquarium, about starting a big aquarium, about starting aquarium novice, and about the first month of life aquarium. These materials, of course, are useful, however, have a narrowly focused character. In this connection, there is a need to write a full-scale material that would serve as a guide for action for beginners.

Let's first determine the goals and objectives, stages of the launch of the aquarium, as well as the base equipment and the aquarium chemistry that will be needed.

The main goal is to show a novice aquarist that "that aquarium features are not scary as he is painted!" Additional, but equally important goals:

- Show that a beautiful aquarium with plants "in the teeth" to everyone! What to create and maintain it is easy.

- Give step by step instructions.

- Make recommendations on the use of aquarium products and aquarium equipment.

- Teach a novice to "see your aquarium" and develop an unconventional way of aquarium thinking.

- Create a beautiful herbal aquarium.

- Show the dynamics of the aquarium: one month, three months, six months.

- When arranging an aquarium, use the maximum possible palette of aquarium plants, which will provide an opportunity to see the development of a single plant and its response to a particular action.

- Despite the abundance of plants that will be used, to show the basics of an aquascape - the basics of hard-cutting, the rules for using zagryag and stones when building an aquarium composition.

- Show the order of actions, the basics of care for the aquarium, as well as give a workshop on the use of aquarium preparations at start-up and later life of the aquarium with live plants.

- Coverage of related issues, nuances and tricks.

Equipment to be used in the review

Aquarian complex Tetra AquaArt Discover Line 60L;

External filter Tetra EX 600 Plus;

Curbstone for aquarium Tetra AquaArt 60l;

Aquarium chemistry:

Tetra SafeStart, Tetra AquaSafe, Tetra EasyBalance

Tetra bactozym

Fertilizer line for aquarium plants from the company Tetra

+ Tetra Balance Balls

Installation of the aquarium:

- choosing a place for an aquarium;

- installation and installation of aquarium cabinets;

- installation of an aquarium;

Running aquarium:

- laying aquarium substrate and soil;

- Hardscape bases (placement of stones and snags);

- planting plants (basics aquascape);

- the use of starting chemistry;

- Features of the contents of the aquarium with plants nuances and tricks;

Care of the aquarium after launch:

- correct setting of biological equilibrium;

- care for the aquarium in the first month;

- the use of fertilizers for plants;

- Aquarium lighting (daylight mode);

- temperature for the aquarium;


This stage is quite simple and clear, however, a number of beginners make fatal mistakes at the very early stage of creating an aquarium world.

Below, let's look at the rules for installing an aquarium:

- The aquarium is installed in an area where direct sunlight does not fall;

- Aquarium is installed away from the aisles and doors. The best place is a corner of the room or a niche.

- Aquarium should not be placed on fragile surfaces.

- The aquarium should not be installed near the central heating radiators, near other heating appliances, in close proximity to household appliances, as well as on the window sill.

- The aquarium is installed taking into account the convenient placement of power outlets.

- Aquarium aesthetically and comfortably looks on a specialized tank cabinet.

Educational film about the launch of the aquarium for beginners

And so we chose the place. We proceed to the immediate installation of the aquarium. In this review, we used a tank stand for an aquarium. Tetra AquaArt 60l. white color. This cabinet was delivered in durable, branded packaging and despite the fact that it was delivered by a transport company from Moscow, all its component parts, including the glass door, were safe and sound. The cabinet itself is standard, with two shelves and a specially designed rear wall design for convenient supply of aquarium equipment. The bollard is easy to assemble. The complete set of accessories is included in the package. And what is especially pleased: the kit included the necessary furniture key. Probably, many of our readers were faced with the problem of lack of keys when buying furniture, which forced us to run around the hardware stores in search of the right hex key. In this case, there was no such problem; the pedestal was assembled in 20 minutes.

The next step is to install the tube on the selected place.

nightstand tetra nightstand tetra

IMPORTANT!!! Any tuba, any surface on which the aquarium will stand, must be leveled with a building level. The larger the volume of the aquarium, the more carefully you need to approach this issue. Any deviation of the aquarium from the horizontal is fraught with uneven load on one or another wall of the aquarium.

It should also be noted that the aquarium tube should not be installed close to the walls. It is necessary to observe the indents for convenient supply of cords and hoses to the aquarium.

Installing an aquarium. In this review we will install the aquarium complex Tetra AquaArt Discover Line 60L. This complex includes all the necessary equipment that is needed to start the aquarium:

- pan for aquarium;

- convenient aquarium cover;

- lighting + reflector;

- internal filter mounted;

- heater;

- the aquarium 60l. net volume;

- as well as two bottles of starting chemistry (TetraAquaSafe, EasyBalance) + TetraMin feed.

Of course, all these components can be purchased separately. In this case, the company Tetra relieves the novice from a difficult choice of aquarium equipment - everything is ready to launch!

The order of installation of the aquarium:

installation of an aquarium

installation of an aquarium

- It is necessary to unpack the aquarium. Remove the lid. Remove all components of the complex.

- Check the walls and edges of the aquarium for cracks and chips that could occur during transportation of the aquarium from the store to the house.

- Next, if necessary, you need to paste the background. If a film is used as a background, the easiest way to fasten is to secure it with transparent tape to the outer rear wall of the aquarium. Note that the film must be mounted on a dry surface. The film is attached with tape on all sides! This will save you from distorting the background image caused by moisture between the glass and the background. Additionally, see the article - How to glue aquarium background?

how to glue the background of the aquarium how to glue the background of the aquarium

- Install the aquarium on the cabinet. The bottom of the aquarium should be completely on the surface of the bollard. After that, we check once again with the construction level whether the aquarium is exactly installed.


After the preparatory activities, the most enjoyable stage begins - the launch of the aquarium.

Laying aquarium substrate and soil.

A beginner aquarist needs to take the issue of laying the substrate and the soil very seriously. After all, they play a crucial role in the life of plants and the aquarium as a whole. The substrate of the aquarium bottom is also a source of food for plants and a natural biological filter in which colonies of beneficial bacteria of nitrifiers settle.

The choice of substrate and soil is specific, individual and depends on many factors. It is impossible to give a clear recommendation. Each aquarist, on the basis of his own requests, must personally determine for himself what kind of substrate, what kind of soil he will need in a particular case. Below, we will try to highlight those aspects that the newcomer must pay attention to:

1. It is necessary to distinguish the substrate for the aquarium from the aquarium soil. The substrate is a nutrient substrate that contains the necessary nutrients that the plant incorporates through the root system. Soil is a substrate that may also contain useful elements, but its main function is to cover the aquarium bottom.

2. Nutrient substrate is used only under the root system of aquarium plants. It should not be laid on the entire surface of the aquarium bottom, if the plants, say, are only located in the corner, in this case, the substrate is placed only in the corner. Or, for example, if you have a small number of 5-10 plants, you can and even need to do without a substrate.

Often in the aquarium forums you can see the following dialogue:

"Newbie: I applied such a substrate, planted 5t plants.

The answer is offline: Vanguyu you algal flash and greening aquarium. Since the substrate in the first month will be very fonit. "

What does it mean? All aquarian substrates are a nutrient substrate, in simple language it is "earth, black soil". The compositions of the substrates are different and the concentration of fertilizers in them is different.

From this, we can conclude that before you buy a substrate you need to clearly understand what exactly will be in your tank. If you put a substrate in an aquarium and at the same time do not plant a sufficient number of plants in the aquarium, then the substrate will “fade”, that is, it will release the nutrients into an empty one, which will cause an outbreak of algae - the lower aquarium world.

3. If a small number of plants are used in the design of an aquarium, it is possible to feed them through the root system without a substrate. For example, placing pills under the roots of plants Tetra plantastartand Tetra crypto. It will be quite enough for plants.

4. Ground for aquarium plants should be light, porous, it must be checked for "hissing". See the article for more details. soil and nutritional substrate for aquarium plants.

In this article we will use the substrate Tetra CompleteSubstrate. In our opinion, this substrate is optimal for a novice aquarist. It is balanced, contains all the necessary world elements and at the same time will save the novice from excessive concentration of fertilizers in the aquarium.

In addition, this substrate company Tetra, unlike others, can always be found in any city, in any pet store.

So, open the bucket, pour out the substrate and evenly, using a ruler or a construction spatula, distribute it along the bottom of the aquarium. Please note: if the substrate is distributed over all areas of the aquarium, you should try to distribute it so that the thickness of the substrate is minimal at the front wall of the aquarium (1-2 cm), and at the back wall of the aquarium, on the contrary, more. This is done, firstly, in order to visually add volume to the aquarium, and, secondly, as a rule, plants are not planted in the foreground (except for ground cover plants).

After the substrate is laid, you can additionally make a layer of drugs that will "strengthen" it and / or make the aquarium substrate more "attractive" for colonies of nitrifying bacteria:

- crumble a few tablets Tetra PlantaStart and evenly scatter them along the bottom, reinforcing the substrate;

- spread the granules Tetra InitialSticks;

- apply granules Tetra NitrateMinus Pearls;

- scatter the required number of capsules Tetra bactozym.

- it is even possible to apply a crumb tourmaline.

At the same time, we draw the reader’s attention to the individuality of each aquarium. All of the above drugs can be used both together and separately.

For example, when launching an aquarium in this review, we did not use Tetra NitrateMinus Pearl because in the future we will use the new Tetra Balance Balls. We also took into account the fact that nitrate (NO3), although it is poison and the last link in the chain of the nitrogen cycle, at the same time, NO3 is an important macro-fertilizer for plants. We also did not use Tetra InitialSticks, this was done intentionally, firstly, in order to protect ourselves from possible excessive concentration of fertilizers in the first month, secondly, it was decided to use Tetra PlantaStart and Tetra Crypto to feed the plants, through root system and, thirdly, we will use liquid fertilizers Tetra plantamin, Tetra PlantaPro Macro, Tetra PlantaPro Micro, and Tetra CO2 plus. Thus, by such actions we push the care of our aquarium with a herbalist to a more complex, but at the same time more “advanced level” - translating it “into manual mode” when we ourselves, based on the behavior of the aquarium, will adjust: increase or decrease the concentration this or that fertilizer.

Before laying the ground, we only scattered Tetra Bactozym capsules. A detailed description of this drug you can read by clicking on the link that was given above. Here we briefly say that Tetra Baktozym is a drug that promotes the rapid growth of beneficial nitrifying bacteria; the drug creates an invisible film that is “settled” and which bacteria feed on. Having scattered the Tetra Bakozim capsules on the substrate, we kindly politely invite the beneficial bacteria to move into the soil as quickly as possible.

We proceed to the next stage - laying ground. It is carried out according to the same rules as for the substrate (the thickness of the front wall is less). Let's pay attention only to the fact that not every soil is suitable for plants !!! Aquarium soil should meet the following criteria:

1. It should be easy - it will contribute to the good development of the root system of plants.

2. Must be sloping - this will negate the possible formation of oxygen-free zones and levels the likelihood of acidification of the soil and the substrate.

3. Must be porous - this will contribute to the development of a larger population of beneficial bacteria in the soil.

4. The soil should not "hiss".

All the above requirements meet the ground Tetra Active Substrate. This soil is a novelty in the line of Tetra products and preparations for aquarium plants. That is why we will use it and test it in practice.

The basics of hardskape - placing stones and snags.

Harscape is the skeleton of an aquarium design, manipulating decorative elements until it is filled with water. See the article for more details. Hardscape in Aquarium Design.

Any aquarium is a corner of nature, a microcosm that lives according to the laws and rules of Mother Nature. The harmony of the world is embodied in everything that we see in every bush and every branch. An aquarist must learn to see the beautiful, to borrow from nature its rules and laws.

На нашем сайте есть замечательные статьи, которые помогут Вам сделать первые шаги в мир гармонии, настоятельно рекомендуем ознакомиться с ними:




В данном обзоре, в качестве камней мы использовали диабаз, а также использовали замысловатую корягу, как основной элемент дизайна и поверхность для выращивания мхов.

It is necessary to pay attention of the reader that stones, in the same way, as well as soil should be checked on "hissing" - they should not increase hardness of water. Diabase is a mountain volcanic rock and in different areas the chemical composition of this stone is different - one diabase "hisses", the other is not. Be sure to try to check the "stone decor" with vinegar for hissing. Hissing stones, hissing soil can only be used in aquariums where there are no plants and for fish that love hard water, such are most African cichlids.

In a question of use of kryag, there are also nuances! Details about them are described in our form branch - Snags in an aquarium: how to prepare, soak, boil, dry, sanitize.

Here we note that you should not use the first log in the aquarium. Take a closer look, choose a snag, think about how it will look in an aquarium, how it will be combined as a whole in an aquarium composition.

Also, before the embodiment of the design idea, we recommend that you make sketches of the desired (at least schematically) - this will greatly facilitate the realization of the idea.

Planting plants in the aquarium.

In this review, we intentionally used an incredible number of different plants:

Hediotis Zaltsman;

Bliksa Japanese;

Hemianthus micrantemoids;

Hemianthus Monte Carlo;


Cryptocoryne Parva;

Rotala indica;

Rotala Myanmar;

Bacopa Caroline;

Ludwig Ovalis;

Ludwig ordinary palustris;

Alternatera Colorate Ed;

Atonogeton viviparous;

Eleoharis Vivipara;


Hygrophilus balsamic;

Pogostemon erectus;

Moss Phoenix;

Moss Flame (Flamemoss);

Queen moss / S.P .;

Willow moss;

Java moss and others.

Such an abundance of plants justifies the use of the substrate and will allow us to show the reader that the cultivation of any, even the most fastidious plant is not such a difficult task. In the future, the list and the number of plants will be adjusted.

Below are the general rules of planting plants:

the photo shows the rules of planting aquarium plants

1. The stunted (ground cover) plants are planted in the foreground, the long-stem plants are in the background.

2. Plants are planted before planting, rotted leaves are removed, roots are pruned, leaving 2 -3 cm.

3. Ground-cover plants and low-growing plants are planted in wet ground (some water is poured), then the aquarium is still filled, and middle and background plants are planted.

4. If a large number of plants are planted (which can take a long time), you can use a spray bottle to periodically spray the already planted plants.

5. Large plants can be planted in the hole by hand, ground cover tweezers.

6. Plants with red pigment are placed in the most lighted areas.

7. Mosses are attached to stones and bark by fishing line or thread.

After planting, the necessary amount of Tetra PlantaStart was inserted under the roots of the plants with tweezers - the tablets contribute to the rooting and adaptation of the newly planted plant. Please note that these tablets can be divided into quarters and make them depending on the size of the bush.

At the end of the landing, the aquarium was completely flooded with water.

In the conclusion of this section, it should be said that a beginner aquarist should not be afraid of the suspension that can form in an aquarium in the first days. Slight cloudiness of the aquarium can be caused by dust from the soil (mechanical turbidity). Such dust within 3-7 days will be filtered. Also, for the first time the days of the life of an aquarium can form a "biological turbidity" - whiteness of water, this turbidity is also not terrible, and even vice versa, tells the aquarist that biological processes have started to actively work in the aquarium. Such dregs also take place in 3-7 days. See the article for more details. Muddy aquarium.

Sometimes, in the first month on a snag that was drowned in an aquarium, whitish mucus can form - it is organic, the phenomenon is also not terrible, but saying that the snag was not fully processed. Such mucus will disappear soon, but it can still be removed mechanically or, for example, by driving catfish. antsistrusovthat will clear this slime.

Also, a novice aquarist should not worry that in a water-filled aquarium it will not be possible to plant the plants or change their location. In the future, you can easily make adjustments.

Additional materials for this section:

Aquarium plants for beginners

Herbal aquarium

The use of starting chemistry at the start of the aquarium.

After the aquarium was filled with water, we introduced three basic starter preparations:

Tetra aquasafe - binds heavy metals, completely neutralizes chlorine and creates an environment as close as possible to the natural habitats of fish. Colloidal silver solution protects the mucous membranes of fish, and magnesium and vitamin B1 reduce the stress effect.

Tetra SafeStart - contains specially grown live nitrifying bacteria that reliably reduce the levels of poisonous ammonia and nitrite in the aquarium.

Tetra EasyBalance - stabilizes pH and carbonate hardness (CN) of water, removes phosphorus, supplements with various vitamins, microelements and minerals, reduces the number of water changes. Provides a healthy habitat for your plants and fish in a freshwater aquarium.

These drugs are essential for the maintenance of the aquarium, especially in the first month. Their use is in fact the key to success and the absence of problems after launch. All these preparations have different directions, but in the aggregate they set up the biological balance in the aquarium as efficiently as possible.

Features of the contents of the aquarium with plants, nuances and tricks.

So, we launched an aquarium! Every hour, every day, the aquarium begins to "mature" - a new life begins! Millions of microorganisms (bacteria, fungi, protozoa) begin to develop, plants begin to adapt, filtering, aeration of the aquarium takes place, photons of light begin to feed the plants, which, in turn, begin to release oxygen in the process of photosynthesis - you have created this wonderful world! And as a creator, you should understand that this world must develop, there should not be stagnation in it.

Below we will share the "uncomplicated tricks" that you must learn and practice.

Since we created the herbal aquarium, we must clearly understand the components that are necessary for the comfortable life of the aquarium garden, here they are:




(CO2, micro and macro fertilizers)



(properly configured filtration, aeration)


The issue of lighting aquarium with live aquarium plants is important and extensive. Lighting is the key to good plant growth! It is important to understand this fact.

To understand all the wisdom of lighting for plants, our articles will help you:

Aquarium lighting and lamp selection

DIY Aquarium Lighting

Reflectors in the aquarium

Of course, this material for a beginner will be initially complicated. But once you figure it out and everything will fall into place.

It is worth noting that in reality, the question of lighting is not a problem, it is only important to understand “what and how much” you need under your herbalist. And after, you just need to purchase and install the selected option for additional lighting - it can be additional fluorescent lamps connected via ballast or electronic starterit may be LED strip or LED panelThis may be the MG SD searchlight.

In this review, we took into account the conditions of our plants, calculated the required number of lumens and supplemented the staff aquarium refreshment. The issue was resolved in one day!

Be sure to study this issue, this will help you the above articles.


In addition to lighting, plants need a complex of fertilizers that they consume in the process of photosynthesis. All fertilizers for aquarium plants can be divided into MACRO fertilizers, MICRO fertilizers and separately emit CO2 (carbon dioxide).

All these fertilizers are presented in Tetra lineup.

An important fertilizer for plants is carbon dioxide. The aquarist should first think about its sufficient amount. This is due to the fact that micro and macro fertilizers, in one or another quantity, will always be present in the water, even if they are not specially applied - they are in tap water, they are formed as a result of the vital activity of fish. But CO2, alas, will always be missed.

Aquarium water is enriched with carbon dioxide in various ways:




See the articles for more details: CO2 for aquarium, CO2 pro and con.

In this review, in our tank we used a fermentation unit and the preparation Tetra CO2 Plus. And the thing is this: Tetra CO2 Plus, when introduced into aquarium water, decomposes into O2 (oxygen) and CO2 (carbon dioxide) in a form that is digestible for plants. There are no analogues of this drug, it is not pentandial - an algicide, which is more aimed at combating algae rather than feeding CO2 plants. This is not a poison: an overdose, which can cause the death of hydrobionts.

At the same time, the supply of CO2 through the mash does not always give the desired result - over time, the intensity of carbon dioxide in the mash decays. In order to compensate for such an uneven supply of CO2, we will add Tetra CO2 Plus based on the drop-checker readings.

MICRO and MACRO fertilizer for the aquarium.

When growing herbalist in our review we used the following fertilizers:

Tetra planamin

Tetra PlantaPro Macro

Tetra PlantaPro Micro

The PlantaPro series is developed by Tetra for professional plant care. If you practice a herbalist at an amateur level, then one Tera PlantaMin will be enough.

In the issue of micro and macro fertilizers, you should pay attention to the fact that their dosage is strictly individual. The proportions of the application of these fertilizers are not specified by the manufacturer and we also will not be specified, because they are calculated for each aquarium herbalist personally, based on its volume and size, the power of lighting, the number of plants and the parameters of the water itself.


Properly configured filtration in a plant aquarium

As previously mentioned, the aquarium complex Tetra AquaArt Discover Line 60L includes all the necessary basic equipment. Including the kit includes an internal filter mounted, which is enough for high-quality filtration of aquarium water.

However, in our opinion, external filters are best suited for keeping a herbal tank. First, because they do not occupy space in the aquarium and do not interfere with the construction of an aquarium composition. Secondly, with the help of an external filter, a better filtration of the aquarium is achieved. Thirdly, filtration through external filters is quiet, in all senses: the filter itself is noiseless and the water flow that creates the filter is "quiet" and adjustable.

We used an external filter in our herbalist. Tetra EX 600 Plus - most "junior" in the line of external filters Tetra. Speaking about its qualitative characteristics, it should be said that this is a good filter, we have no complaints about it. His standard equipment. However, it is worth noting three points that pleasantly pleased:

1. Tetra EX 600 Plus- the youngest in the Tetra filter line. That is, it has a minimum capacity and the ability to filter aquarium water for a certain period of time (liters / hour). Many manufacturers of external filters produce a series of "younger" with a minimum number of internal compartments, due to their compactness (1-2 compartments). In this case, in the Tetra EX 600 Plus filter there are three compartments, which is very convenient, as it allows you to use even more filter fillers.

2. Despite the fact that Tetra EX 600 Plus is the youngest in the series, it is able to pass and filter up to 630 liters per hour. Which is very solid for similar filters (average value of 400-550 l / h).

3. The flute (nozzle for uniform distribution of water flow from the filter) is made of transparent plastic. This is very important for herbal aquarium, because tube does not violate the aesthetics.

What else is good external filter for herbalist? It is very convenient with him to regulate the flow of air and the flow of CO2. When there is no light in the aquarium, the filter flute rises above the water level and powerful water jets create an excellent aeration of the aquarium. When the aquarium's lighting turns on, the need for air disappears, the flute sinks into the water and the stream of water begins to accelerate the CO2 bubbles, which rise from the diffuser and distribute them throughout the aquarium. That is, thereby, improving the quality of water saturation with carbon dioxide.

If you buy sockets, timers, and an additional pump for aeration, you can “automate” the aquarium — that is, you will not need to turn the lights on and off yourself, raise and lower the flute. At the appointed time, the light will turn on and off with simultaneous activation of the pump for aerating the aquarium at night.

In concluding the issue of filtration of aquarium water, it should be said that earlier, when starting the aquarium, we did not specifically use any drugs that reduce the nitrate concentration in the aquarium (Tetra NitrateMinus Pearls). Precisely because the Tetra EX 600 Plus has three compartments for fillers. And most recently, Tetra has released a new product. Tetra Balance Balls - special filter media that reduces the concentration of NO3.

We simply additionally poured a small amount of Tetra Balance Balls into one external filter compartment. The issue of excessive concentration of poisons resolved! The advantage of using Tetra Balance Balls for an aquarium with plants is that if we need to increase the amount of NO3 (as fertilizer for plants), we can simply remove a certain part of the balls.

Care of the aquarium after launch

After the aquarium has been launched, the aquarist can breathe out a little and enjoy the first results of his work. However, you should not relax, because the most interesting things start ahead!

The aquarium is interesting because it is not a static picture with fish in the pond. Our site always encourages people to change their attitude to this amazing hobby and look at it in a new way. Aquaria is so surprising that it is atypical, there are no stereotypes, taboos, clear prescriptions. Each individual aquarium is unique!

In aquaristics, perhaps, there is only one rule - you need to learn how to see and feel your aquarium. No need to perceive the aquarium problems and failures, as a tragedy. As Shakespeare said: "The bad, the good are not there, only what we call it"! It is necessary to perceive everything with curiosity, study materials, study your aquarium world and, of course, first of all treat everything with love.

Correct adjustment of biological balance.

We are sure that if you stick to what is written in this article, you will succeed! Additionally, we recommend that you read the following articles to help you understand the meaning of biobalance in an aquarium:

Aquarium Biobalance;

Nitrites and nitrates in the aquarium forum;

The aquarium with densely planted plants has its own peculiarity! The biological balance in such an aquarium is much better tuned.

When starting the aquarium, we used starter preparations - Tetra AquaSafe, Tetra AquaStart, Tetra EasyBalance. The use of these drugs is the key to success and in fact negates all the problems associated with the establishment of biological equilibrium in the first month after the launch of the aquarium.

As can be seen from the tables and videos, using these drugs, we almost immediately take control of the nitrogen cycle and the decomposition of ammonia products, as well as turn the water supply into habitable aquarium fish.

Care for the aquarium with plants in the first month.

As a general rule, an aquarium in the first month does not require cleaning, water change and the aquarium bottom siphon! These rules apply to the aquarium with plants. But It is worth noting that, while containing an aquarium with plants, you must be prepared for a constant fight against algae, or rather for their oppression. In the first month, after the launch of the aquarium, algae can be very annoying to the aquarist. This is due to the fact that the biobalance is not yet tuned, the planted plants have not yet become stronger, at the same time, bright and powerful lighting can cause the growth of the lower plant world.

When green algae appear on the walls and decorations of the aquarium, we do not recommend using any algaecides, preparations from algae, for the first month. It is better to simply wipe them off with a sponge, a special scraper or an unnecessary plastic card.

The use of fertilizers for plants in the first month.

An important component of the success of herbalist is the correct application of fertilizers for plants in the right proportions.

We recommend independently choosing the dosage of one or another fertilizer, taking into account all the components of your aquarium.

In the first month of the life of the aquarium, we do not recommend "zealous" with fertilizers. First, because when you start the aquarium fit nutritional substrate, and secondly, used tablets Tetra PlantaStart and Crupto- this will be quite enough for the newly planted plants. In the future, taking into account the condition of the aquarium, apply liquid and / or tableted fertilizers, starting with small doses. See how the aquarium behaves in the future, adjust the dosage.

Always remember that a plant surplus can always take advantage of fertilizer - algae! For this reason, in aquariums with lush plants (scapes), frequent and high-quality replacement of aquarium water (from от to ½ part of the volume per week) is made.Replacing water, we remove surplus accumulated fertilizers, level their accumulation.

Lighting the aquarium in the first month - daylight mode.

Aquarium lighting is an important tool for regulating plant growth and biobalance in general. Excessive lighting leads to algae growth, its deficiency leads to poor plant condition.

After launching the aquarium, we strongly do not recommend immediately using the generally accepted scheme of daylight hours 10-14 hours a day !!! In the first month, the lighting of the aquarium should be dosed and increased gradually. Let's say in the first week 5 hours, in the second 6 hours, in the third 8 hours and so on to normal - balance.

Temperature regime for the aquarium.

We must always remember that aquarium plants, like fish, need a stable temperature. Do not allow sudden changes in temperature.

It should also be borne in mind that most aquarium plants do not like heat. The general norm is 24-25 degrees.


A month has passed since the launch of our aquarium. During this time we made one full-fledged substitution of aquarium water in 1/3 of the volume, as there was a small outbreak of algae, expressed in the formation of green dots on the front wall of the aquarium. Sponge were made two easy cleaning the walls of the aquarium. From the second week we began to apply liquid fertilizers of the Pro series from Tetra in minimum quantities of 1 ml. three times a week. A week later, the dosage was slightly increased. The fourth week of fertilizer dosage ~ 1.5-2.0 ml. Pro every other day + 1/2 doses of Tetra PlantaMin + CO2 Plus.

Plant growth Naturally the first who "oklemalsya" after planting were unpretentious plants. By the second week, an obvious growth was noticeable: common lyudvigii, ovalis lyudvigii, aponogeton, hygrophilic balsamic, proserpinaks. By the fourth week I had to thin out: Ludwigia, aphoheton. First harvest;)

More fastidious plants have also become accustomed, but naturally, due to their natural qualities, they do not provide rapid growth. Pleases Blix Japanese - one of the "harmful plants." Alternater colorate red - beet color, noticeably stretched.

Very happy mosses, for a month they shook off all the dust, which was formed at the start of the aquarium, and dissolved.

At the moment, the light day is 9 hours, the lighting is powerful, with a margin, so we in the filter compartment of the TetraEX 600 Plus additionally put a little specialized peat, which gave a natural shading of the aquarium, a slight decrease in pH and kH.

Finally, we would like to share with you one interesting way of removing nitrites and nitrates from an aquarium - using phyto filtration. Many aquarists create a phyto-filter above the aquarium, where clayite is poured and plants are planted. We offer you a "light option" phytofiltration. The fact is that the aquarium cover, which is included in the complex Tetra AquaArt Discover Line 60L - very convenient and has three "windows".

So, if you do not burn with the desire to build gardens of Semiramis, mess with lighting or just want a cichlid! That can be purchased "bamboo", sold in any large flower shop. In fact, it is not bamboo, but dracaena sander - a percarnishing plant growing in water. Three - four branches dracaena set in the aquarium, will pull poisons: nitrite and nitart, and look great over it.

Dracaena over the aquarium

Video clip of our aquarium


We hope that this material was useful for you! As you can see, the content of an aquarium with plants has its own specifics, the key to success in maintaining such an aquarium is perseverance, patience, prudence and a burning desire to achieve the goals set.

Video material from Tetra

about the launch and maintenance of the aquarium with live plants

Muddy aquarium: from what and why the water becomes cloudy, what to do


problems of whitish, green, brown water

Turbidity of the aquarium is a frequent occurrence in new, just-launched aquariums. However, "aquarium murk" does not bypass the already established "old" reservoirs. On the Internet, a lot has been written on this issue. There are lots of articles and even talmudov about the turbid state of aquarium water. However, a significant drawback of these articles, in my opinion, is the lack of practical recommendations for eliminating turbidity and its causes. Yes, theory is good, but what to do? How to get rid of turbidity? What preparations should be used in a given situation, what actions should the aquarist take to make the aquarium beautiful and the water truly clean?
We will try to answer all these questions in this article.
So, the reasons that the aquarium water has become muddy are:
- mechanical factors;
- biological factors;
theory, reasons, ways to eliminate
Aquarium water is a closed ecosystem, where there are various artificial elements that recreate the natural conditions of fish habitat. As well as in nature, water in the aquarium may cloud due to the large number of small suspended particles that were lifted from the bottom of the aquarium, separated from the scenery, formed as a result of the livelihood of aquatic organisms (all aquatic inhabitants).
It can be said that the mechanical clouding of the aquarium is trivial, in fact, it is the dirt and debris of the aquarium, which arose as a result of laziness or proper, improper care for the aquarium.
Let's take a closer look at the reasons for this action:
Errors made when starting the aquarium. Usually the launch of the first, new, just bought aquarium, occurs in a euphoric state. A beginner in a hurry puts the aquarium in a hurry, pours in the ground there, sets the decor and fills it all with water.
Alas, such a rush, later does not well affect the appearance of the aquarium. Water appears in the water, which has not previously been washed away or washed from the scenery and the ground. This is especially true of the ground. Before you lay it on the bottom of the aquarium, it should be washed thoroughly and more than once. Otherwise, dust and small particles of soil will "spread out" throughout the aquarium.
Not the right or inappropriate care. As a result of the vital activity of fish, plants, crustaceans and other inhabitants of the aquarium, waste is generated: feces, food remains, dead organics.
If proper, regular maintenance or filtering of aquarium water is not properly set up in the aquarium, all these residues accumulate. And eventually they begin to swim throughout the reservoir. Moreover, the residues gradually decompose, which gives prerequisites for biological clouding.

The use of "not correct" decorations in the design of the aquarium.
As the decoration of the aquarium can not use bulk, soluble and coloring objects. All these objects will sooner or later be washed out or dissolved by water, which will lead not only to a violation of the aesthetic appearance, but also threatens with chemical poisoning of all living things in the aquarium.

Ways to eliminate mechanical turbidity in the aquarium

Naturally the first is a thorough cleaning of the aquarium with the replacement? aquarium water to fresh, plus siphon aquarium bottom and cleaning the walls of the aquarium. Extract all the "bad" decorations.
The second is the enhanced filtration of aquarium water. The existing filter is cleaned and washed, re-installed. Plus, another new filter is installed or a more powerful filter is bought to replace the old one.
Tip: Mechanical turbidity in the aquarium is very fine. Under the influence of any oscillation (excitement), it sweeps up and heaves. Before the general cleaning of the aquarium, it is recommended to turn off aeration and filtration in the aquarium for 2-3 hours, a little more. In the absence of generated water currents, all small particles floating in the water will gradually sink to the bottom and aquarium decorations. After that, they will be easy to collect siphon.

Preparations eliminating mechanical turbidity in an aquarium

Aquarium coal - Absorbent, perfectly coping with pollution of the aquarium. Coal is poured after cleaning the aquarium in the filter compartment and held there for two weeks. After that, a new portion of coal is removed and, if necessary, poured.
TetraAqua CrystalWater (drug TM "Tetra") - binds small particles that are in the water and combines them into larger ones, which are then either removed through a filter, or are deposited on the bottom. Such a course of the cleaning process is guaranteed for any kind of filter.
If small particles still float in the water, these may be food remnants, with over-feeding, or particles of soil that have risen after changing water.
The product acts on both the physical and chemical levels. The first results are noticeable 2-3 hours after application. After 6-8 hours, the water becomes clean, and after 6-12 hours - crystal clear. Dosage: 100 ml per 200 l of aquarium water.
Tetra Crystal Water is recommended even with a slight clouding of the aquarium, it is very useful to use the drug before the photo session of the aquarium. In practice, the period of complete water purification can stretch for 2 days. Most likely it depends on the degree of pollution of the reservoir.

Sera aquaria clear
(similar to the previous drug, but from TM "Sulfur") - a means for removing contaminants from aquarium water, quickly, simply and reliably connects the "dregs" of any origin in aquariums.
Bound "turbidity" is removed using a filter installed in your aquarium within a few minutes. Sera Aquaria Clear - acts biologically and does not contain harmful active substances, effectively removes contaminants from the aquarium water.
theory, reasons, ways to eliminate
Aquarium water is not sterile. Even when the water visually looks perfectly clean, it contains various microorganisms and fungi that are not visible to the human eye. And this is the normal state of affairs.
In our world, everything is interconnected; everything that was invented by God is not superfluous and is needed for something. Fungi and bacteria (good or bad) in aquarium water play a crucial role for all other inhabitants of the aquarium. Fungi are involved in the decomposition of dead organics, bacteria recycle ammonia, nitrites and nitrates (aquarium poisons), etc.
Now imagine what happens if this process is disrupted? That's right, there will be dregs! Such a violation in akvaraimistiki called "biobalance violation" or "biological equilibrium."
By the time of flow, the biobalance violation can be divided into:
Violations in the "young" - a new, just-launched aquarium;
Violations in the "old" - well-established aquarium;

dimmed water in a newly launched aquarium

In many sources on this issue it is very briefly written: "Do not worry, the clouding of your aquarium will pass by itself in 3-5 days." And the point! After reading this, the aquarium novice exhales, says "Fuv, thank God" and calms down on it.
But, with this position we can agree only partially. Yes, indeed the first 3-5 days of the newly launched aquarium will be muddy. Then whitish cloudiness, similar to fog or colostrum (sometimes with a brownish or greenish tinge) disappears by itself. But, as mentioned above, “aquarium water is not sterile,” and the absence of turbidity does not indicate that the problem has been solved.
What happens in a young aquarium? Why does the water in the aquarium grow turbid?
In short, in the aquarium there is a setting of biological balance. Namely, there is a rapid growth of bacteria, fungi and other unicellular microorganisms. At the same time, products of life of fish and other inhabitants of the reservoir accumulate in the aquarium. Not joining of the two leads to their excessiveness, which is manifested visually in the form of turbidity of water. Gradually, the process is aligned and the biological chain closes. In other words, the amount of food (dead organics, fish food residues, feces) is equal to the number of colonies of beneficial bacteria, and of fungi, which they eat and decompose into smaller “elements”.
Based on the above, we can agree that the clouding of a young aquarium is not so scary. But, it can be prevented! Or rather help the aquarium tune faster. How? We will talk about this a little later.

clouding of an established aquarium

If the clouding of a young aquarium is forgivable to an aquarist, then dregs in the old pond are his sin! Violation of the biobalance in well-established water bodies is often due to oversight, due to the lack of basic care, due to ignorance or unwillingness to know what is happening in the aquarium. The exculpatory causes of the clouding of the old aquarium include “whiteness after the treatment of fish”, that is, when aquarium chemistry and preparations were used in the aquarium. Like any "medicine" aquarium chemistry has side effects, in particular the violation of biological equilibrium.
What happens in the old aquarium? Why does the water grow cloudy in it?
And almost the same thing happens as in a young aquarium. But, if I may say so, in regressive order.
To make it even clearer to you, let's break the aquarium biological chain into links. NITROGEN CYCLE is as follows.
(remnants of dead organics, fish food, feces, etc.)
decompose under the action of bacteria in
(the strongest poison, destructive for all living things)
under the action of another group of bacteria is decomposed into
(less dangerous, but also poisons)
further decompose to
and out of the aquarium water
As you understand, this process is multistage and has its own nuances.
For those that want to study it in more detail, I recommend to go to the forum thread NITRITES AND NITRATES IN THE AQUARIUM. And now imagine what will happen in the old aquarium, if one of the links, for one reason or another, falls out? That's right - dregs! Sorry for the tautology))) Unlike the dregs in a young aquarium, the turbidity in the old aquarium not only spoils the appearance of the aquarium, but is also very dangerous. The following happens: under the influence of non-excreting poisons, the fish’s immunity weakens, their defense mechanisms weaken and become unable to resist the “harmful” - pathogenic bacteria and fungi (which are always in the water). As a result, the fish gets sick and if you do not conduct treatment in time, the fish dies. Thus, we can conclude that the violation of biological balance is the primary cause of the death of aquarium fish. In fairness, it should be said that the saturation of aquarium water with excess ammonia, nitrite and nitrate - can occur without turbidity of the aquarium water. What is even worse, because the enemy is invisible.


or how to set up a biobalance
First of all, you need to make regular cleaning in the aquarium, do not overfeed the fish. Remember that only the constant and correct replacement of aquarium water to fresh water is an effective way to get rid of poisons.
ATTENTION: To replace the water in a young aquarium, in order to get rid of turbidity is not necessary. In the first month, the water in a young aquarium generally needs to be tried less often and in smaller volumes. Water should "infuse."
Drugs that eliminate the biological clouding of the aquarium - preparations setting biobalance:
Almost all aquarium brands in their arsenal have a line of products that customize the biological balance.
The essence of these drugs can be divided into those that:
- neutralize poisons (nitrites and nitrates);
- promote the growth of colonies of beneficial denitrifying bacteria or are a ready concentrate of these bacteria.
To achieve the maximum effect, you should use these drugs in a complex. Especially with a flash of nitrite and nitrate.
Preparations that neutralize nitrites and nitrates Zeolite is an ion exchanger, in fact, as well as aquarium coal is an absorbent. But, unlike coal, which is not able to “tighten” nitrites and nitrates, zeolite copes with it perfectly. Zeolite is used not only in aquarism, it is widely used in other areas of human life. Therefore, it can even be bought by weight.
Zeolites are a large group of similar in composition and properties of minerals, aqueous aluminosilicates of calcium and sodium from the subclass of frame silicates, with glass or pearlescent gloss, known for their ability to give and reabsorb water, depending on temperature and humidity. Another important property of zeolites is the ability to ion exchange - they are able to selectively release and reabsorb various substances, as well as exchange cations.
Aquarium preparations containing zeolite.

Fluval zeo-carb - a filler for filters zeolite + absorbent carbon.
This is a combination of Fluval activated carbon and Fluval Ammonia Remover. Working together, these highly effective means of active filtration, which eliminate pollution, odors and color, and at the same time, remove toxic ammonia:
- Protects an aquarium from toxic ammonia.
- At the same time, coal adsorbs waste materials, dyes and drugs from water.
- Reduces the phosphate content in water.
The combination of the two products frees up space in your filter for other types of filtering.
Aquael ZeoMAX Plus - zeolite in the form of small crumb, removes ammonia and phosphates, stabilizes pH.
Due to its chemical structure, it provides excellent absorption of organic pollutants, nitrogenous compounds and phosphates that are toxic to fish, which are a consequence of the metabolism of aquarium inhabitants.
Zeolite should not be left in the filter for more than one month.
For more information about the advantages and disadvantages of zeolite, see the forum thread "Nitrites and nitrates", namely HERE.
The drug acting at the chemical level.

Sera toxivec - a drug that at the chemical level instantly eliminates NO2NO3. Since this is chemistry, it is recommended to use it as a preventive measure and once.
Immediately removes hazardous contaminants, life-threatening fish and filter bacteria, from aquarium water. Equal effectiveness against different types of pollutants makes this tool especially valuable.
Sera Toxivec instantly eliminates ammonia / ammonia and nitrites. Because of this, it prevents their transition into nitrates and helps prevent the growth of irritating algae.
In addition, Sera Тoxivec eliminates aggressive chlorine from tap water. Also effective as a disinfectant disinfectant and medication remover.
At the same time, it is capable of even more: it binds toxic heavy metals such as copper, zinc, lead, and even mercury. Therefore, these pollutants can not harm the fish and beneficial bacteria in the biofilter. Due to this, the frequency of water changes can be reduced.
If necessary, for example, with particularly high levels of contamination, an increase in the applied dose of the agent is allowed. Repeated depositing is allowed in one or two hours.
Drugs that promote the growth of beneficial colonies
bacteria or are ready concentrate bacteria
Tetra Bactozym - This conditioner, accelerating the process of stabilization of biological equilibrium, in the filter and aquarium. Suitable for fresh and sea water.
Tetra Bactozym accelerates the conversion of nitrites to nitrates and contains a concentrate of enzymes and substances that contribute to the development of beneficial aquarium microflora. It makes water crystal clear and provides enzymatic decomposition of dissolved organics. The use of an air conditioner reduces the damage done to the beneficial microflora when changing water and washing the filters, and restores microorganisms that are weakened or damaged by the use of medicines.
We draw your attention to the fact that biostarters contain various types of cultures of bacteria and enzymes. Too high or low temperatures reduce their effectiveness.
Tetra NitranMinus Perls (granules) - for reliable reduction of nitrate in water. The drug eliminates the nutritional element necessary for the development of algae, which allows for a long time to improve water quality, reducing, thereby, the need for care of the aquarium.
- lowering the level of nitrates by 12 months by biological means.
- significantly algae growth is restrained.
- just buried in the ground.
Tetra NitrateMinus (liquid conditioner) - biological reduction of nitrates, calculated for 12 months. Improves water quality. Interferes with formation and growth of seaweed (duckweed). Designed for all types of marine and freshwater aquariums.
Convenient dosing: 2.5 ml of new liquid NitrateMinus for every 10 liters of water, once a week.
Like NitrateMinus in granules (Pearls), liquid NitrateMinus facilitates the processing of nitrates into nitrogen and lowers carbonate hardness. A decrease in nitrates by 60 mg / l leads to an increase in carbonate hardness of approximately 3 KH. With regular use of the drug after replacing water, the pH of the water stabilizes and the risk of falling acidity decreases.
Fully compatible, NitrateMinus is based on biological processes in an aquarium and is completely safe for fish. It combines perfectly with TetraAqua EasyBalance and other Tetra products.
Sera bio nitrivec (Sera bio nitrivek) - A preparation for quick launch of the aquarium. Special blend of various high-quality cleansing bacteria for aquariums. Sera nitrivek prevents the accumulation of ammonium and nitrite. The use of Sera nitrivek makes it possible to place the fish in the newly created aquarium already 24 hours after application. When entering the water bacteria
begin to act immediately. The resulting effect is stored in
For a long time, giving a crystal water aquarium water.
There are other drugs of identical orientation. I recommend sharing Tetra Bactozym and Tetra NitranMinus Perls.
And when using NO2NO3 flashes, use zeolite.

How else can you achieve a “good biobalance”?

- Biological equilibrium is more stable if live aquarium plants are present in the aquarium. Plants partially absorb the decay elements of living organics and thereby reduce their concentration. The more aquarium plants, the better. I recommend to read the article. AQUARIUM PLANTS ALL FOR BEGINNERS.
- Aquarium snails and fish "orderlies" will help you in cleaning the aquarium. "Squad" of the same coil snails copes with dying leaves and organic matter. Fish nurses also help in this matter. The majority of aquarium catfish can be attributed to them: corridors, antsistrusy, girinoheiliusy, aquatic sequences, thoracacums, and many others.
- It is advisable to use multistage filtration of aquarium water. And also use other methods that improve water quality, for example, phyto filtration.

Useful video about muddy water in the aquarium

How to run a new fish in the aquarium