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Muddy aquarium: from what and why the water becomes cloudy, what to do


PROBLEMS OF THE MUTT AQUARIUM

problems of whitish, green, brown water

Turbidity of the aquarium is a frequent occurrence in new, just-launched aquariums. However, "aquarium murk" does not bypass the already established "old" reservoirs. On the Internet, a lot has been written on this issue. There are lots of articles and even talmudov about the turbid state of aquarium water. However, a significant drawback of these articles, in my opinion, is the lack of practical recommendations for eliminating turbidity and its causes. Yes, theory is good, but what to do? How to get rid of turbidity? What preparations should be used in a given situation, what actions should the aquarist take to make the aquarium beautiful and the water truly clean?
We will try to answer all these questions in this article.
So, the reasons that the aquarium water has become muddy are:
- mechanical factors;
- biological factors;
MUTT AQUARIUM: MECHANICAL FACTORS
theory, reasons, ways to eliminate
Aquarium water is a closed ecosystem, where there are various artificial elements that recreate the natural conditions of fish habitat. As well as in nature, water in the aquarium may cloud due to the large number of small suspended particles that were lifted from the bottom of the aquarium, separated from the scenery, formed as a result of the livelihood of aquatic organisms (all aquatic inhabitants).
It can be said that the mechanical clouding of the aquarium is trivial, in fact, it is the dirt and debris of the aquarium, which arose as a result of laziness or proper, improper care for the aquarium.
Let's take a closer look at the reasons for this action:
Errors made when starting the aquarium. Usually the launch of the first, new, just bought aquarium, occurs in a euphoric state. A beginner in a hurry puts the aquarium in a hurry, pours in the ground there, sets the decor and fills it all with water.
Alas, such a rush, later does not well affect the appearance of the aquarium. Water appears in the water, which has not previously been washed away or washed from the scenery and the ground. This is especially true of the ground. Before you lay it on the bottom of the aquarium, it should be washed thoroughly and more than once. Otherwise, dust and small particles of soil will "spread out" throughout the aquarium.
Not correct or improper care. As a result of the vital activity of fish, plants, crustaceans and other inhabitants of the aquarium, waste is generated: feces, food remains, dead organics.
If proper, regular maintenance or filtering of aquarium water is not properly set up in the aquarium, all these residues accumulate. And eventually they begin to swim throughout the reservoir. Moreover, the residues gradually decompose, which gives prerequisites for biological clouding.

The use of "not correct" decorations in the design of the aquarium.
As the decoration of the aquarium can not use bulk, soluble and coloring objects. All these objects will sooner or later be washed out or dissolved by water, which will lead not only to a violation of the aesthetic appearance, but also threatens with chemical poisoning of all living things in the aquarium.

Ways to eliminate mechanical turbidity in the aquarium

Naturally the first is a thorough cleaning of the aquarium with the replacement? aquarium water to fresh, plus siphon aquarium bottom and cleaning the walls of the aquarium. Extract all the "bad" decorations.
The second is the enhanced filtration of aquarium water. The existing filter is cleaned and washed, re-installed. Plus, another new filter is installed or a more powerful filter is bought to replace the old one.
Tip: Mechanical turbidity in the aquarium is very fine. Under the influence of any oscillation (excitement), it sweeps up and heaves. Before the general cleaning of the aquarium, it is recommended to turn off aeration and filtration in the aquarium for 2-3 hours, a little more. In the absence of generated water currents, all small particles floating in the water will gradually sink to the bottom and aquarium decorations. After that, they will be easy to collect siphon.

Preparations eliminating mechanical turbidity in an aquarium


Aquarium coal - Absorbent, perfectly coping with pollution of the aquarium. Coal is poured after cleaning the aquarium in the filter compartment and held there for two weeks. After that, a new portion of coal is removed and, if necessary, filled up.
TetraAqua CrystalWater (drug TM "Tetra") - binds small particles that are in the water and combines them into larger ones, which are then either removed through a filter, or are deposited on the bottom. Such a course of the cleaning process is guaranteed for any kind of filter.
If small particles still float in the water, these may be food remnants, with over-feeding, or particles of soil that have risen after changing water.
The product acts on both the physical and chemical levels. The first results are noticeable 2-3 hours after application. After 6-8 hours, the water becomes clean, and after 6-12 hours - crystal clear. Dosage: 100 ml per 200 l of aquarium water.
Tetra Crystal Water is recommended even with a slight clouding of the aquarium, it is very useful to use the drug before the photo session of the aquarium. In practice, the period of complete water purification can stretch for 2 days. Most likely it depends on the degree of pollution of the reservoir.

Sera aquaria clear
(similar to the previous drug, but from TM "Sulfur") - a means for removing contaminants from aquarium water, quickly, simply and reliably connects the "dregs" of any origin in aquariums.
Bound "turbidity" is removed using a filter installed in your aquarium within a few minutes. Sera Aquaria Clear - acts biologically and does not contain harmful active substances, effectively removes contaminants from the aquarium water.
MUTT AQUARIUM: BIOLOGICAL FACTORS
theory, reasons, ways to eliminate
Aquarium water is not sterile. Even when the water visually looks perfectly clean, it contains various microorganisms and fungi that are not visible to the human eye. And this is the normal state of affairs.
In our world, everything is interconnected; everything that was invented by God is not superfluous and is needed for something. Fungi and bacteria (good or bad) in aquarium water play a crucial role for all other inhabitants of the aquarium. Fungi are involved in the decomposition of dead organics, bacteria recycle ammonia, nitrites and nitrates (aquarium poisons), etc.
Now imagine what happens if this process is disrupted? That's right, there will be murkiness! Such a violation in akvaraimistiki called "biobalance violation" or "biological equilibrium."
By the time of flow, the biobalance violation can be divided into:
Violations in the "young" - a new, just-launched aquarium;
Violations in the "old" - well-established aquarium;
MUTTY YOUNG AQUARIUM

dimmed water in a newly launched aquarium

In many sources on this issue it is very briefly written: "Do not worry, the clouding of your aquarium will pass by itself in 3-5 days." And the point! After reading this, the aquarium novice exhales, says "Fuv, thank God" and calms down on it.
But, with this position we can agree only partially. Yes, indeed the first 3-5 days of the newly launched aquarium will be muddy. Then whitish cloudiness, similar to fog or colostrum (sometimes with a brownish or greenish tinge) disappears by itself. But, as mentioned above, “aquarium water is not sterile,” and the absence of turbidity does not indicate that the problem has been solved.
What happens in a young aquarium? Why does the water in the aquarium grow turbid?
In short, in the aquarium there is a setting of biological balance. Namely, there is a rapid growth of bacteria, fungi and other unicellular microorganisms. At the same time, products of life of fish and other inhabitants of the reservoir accumulate in the aquarium. Not joining of the two leads to their excessiveness, which is manifested visually in the form of turbidity of water. Gradually, the process is aligned and the biological chain closes. In other words, the amount of food (dead organics, fish food residues, feces) is equal to the number of colonies of beneficial bacteria, and of fungi, which they eat and decompose into smaller “elements”.
Based on the above, we can agree that the clouding of a young aquarium is not so scary. But, it can be prevented! Or rather help the aquarium tune faster. How? We will talk about this a little later.
MUTT OLD AQUARIUM

clouding of an established aquarium

If the clouding of a young aquarium is forgivable to an aquarist, then dregs in the old pond are his sin! Violation of the biobalance in well-established water bodies is often due to oversight, due to the lack of basic care, due to ignorance or unwillingness to know what is happening in the aquarium. The exculpatory causes of the clouding of the old aquarium include “whiteness after the treatment of fish”, that is, when aquarium chemistry and preparations were used in the aquarium. Like any "medicine" aquarium chemistry has side effects, in particular the violation of biological equilibrium.
What happens in the old aquarium? Why does the water grow cloudy in it?
And almost the same thing happens as in a young aquarium. But, if I may say so, in regressive order.
To make it even clearer to you, let's break the aquarium biological chain into links. NITROGEN CYCLE is as follows.
"DIRT AND TRASH"
(remnants of dead organics, fish food, feces, etc.)
decompose under the action of bacteria in
AMMONIA / AMMONIUM
(the strongest poison, destructive for all living things)
under the action of another group of bacteria is decomposed into
NITRITES, and then NITRATES
(less dangerous, but also poisons)
further decompose to
GAS STATE
and out of the aquarium water
As you understand, this process is multistage and has its own nuances.
For those that want to study it in more detail, I recommend to go to the forum thread NITRITES AND NITRATES IN THE AQUARIUM. And now imagine what will happen in the old aquarium, if one of the links, for one reason or another, falls out? That's right - dregs! Sorry for the tautology))) Unlike the dregs in a young aquarium, the turbidity in the old aquarium not only spoils the appearance of the aquarium, but is also very dangerous. The following happens: under the influence of non-excreting poisons, the fish’s immunity weakens, their defense mechanisms weaken and become unable to resist the “harmful” - pathogenic bacteria and fungi (which are always in the water). As a result, the fish gets sick and if you do not conduct treatment in time, the fish dies. Thus, we can conclude that the violation of biological balance is the primary cause of the death of aquarium fish. In fairness, it should be said that the saturation of aquarium water with excess ammonia, nitrite and nitrate - can occur without turbidity of the aquarium water. What is even worse, because the enemy is invisible.

HOW TO GET RID OF BIOLOGICALLY DISTURBED AQUARIUM

or how to set up biobalance
First of all, you need to make regular cleaning in the aquarium, do not overfeed the fish. Remember that only the constant and correct replacement of aquarium water to fresh water is an effective way to get rid of poisons.
ATTENTION: To replace the water in a young aquarium, in order to get rid of turbidity is not necessary. In the first month, the water in a young aquarium generally needs to be tried less often and in smaller volumes. Water should "infuse."
Drugs that eliminate the biological clouding of the aquarium - preparations setting biobalance:
Almost all aquarium brands in their arsenal have a line of products that customize the biological balance.
The essence of these drugs can be divided into those that:
- neutralize poisons (nitrites and nitrates);
- promote the growth of colonies of beneficial denitrifying bacteria or are a ready concentrate of these bacteria.
To achieve the maximum effect, you should use these drugs in a complex. Especially with a flash of nitrite and nitrate.
Preparations that neutralize nitrites and nitrates Zeolite is an ion exchanger, in fact, as well as aquarium coal is an absorbent. But, unlike coal, which is not able to “tighten” nitrites and nitrates, zeolite copes with it perfectly. Zeolite is used not only in aquarism, it is widely used in other areas of human life. Therefore, it can even be bought by weight.
Zeolites are a large group of similar in composition and properties of minerals, aqueous aluminosilicates of calcium and sodium from the subclass of frame silicates, with glass or pearlescent gloss, known for their ability to give and reabsorb water, depending on temperature and humidity. Another important property of zeolites is the ability to ion exchange - they are able to selectively release and reabsorb various substances, as well as exchange cations.
Aquarium preparations containing zeolite.

Fluval zeo-carb - a filler for filters zeolite + absorbent carbon.
This is a combination of Fluval activated carbon and Fluval Ammonia Remover. Working together, these highly effective means of active filtration, which eliminate pollution, odors and color, and at the same time, remove toxic ammonia:
- Protects an aquarium from toxic ammonia.
- At the same time, coal adsorbs waste materials, dyes and drugs from water.
- Reduces the phosphate content in water.
The combination of the two products frees up space in your filter for other types of filtering.
Aquael ZeoMAX Plus - zeolite in the form of small crumb, removes ammonia and phosphates, stabilizes pH.
Due to its chemical structure, it provides excellent absorption of organic pollutants, nitrogenous compounds and phosphates that are toxic to fish, which are a consequence of the metabolism of aquarium inhabitants.
Zeolite should not be left in the filter for more than one month.
For more information about the advantages and disadvantages of zeolite, see the forum thread "Nitrites and nitrates", namely HERE.
The drug acting at the chemical level.

Sera toxivec - a drug that at the chemical level instantly eliminates NO2NO3. Since this is chemistry, it is recommended to use it as a preventive measure and once.
Immediately removes hazardous contaminants, life-threatening fish and filter bacteria, from aquarium water. Equal effectiveness against different types of pollutants makes this tool especially valuable.
Sera Toxivec instantly eliminates ammonia / ammonia and nitrites. Because of this, it prevents their transition into nitrates and helps prevent the growth of irritating algae.
In addition, Sera Тoxivec eliminates aggressive chlorine from tap water. Also effective as a disinfectant disinfectant and medication remover.
At the same time, it is capable of even more: it binds toxic heavy metals such as copper, zinc, lead, and even mercury. Therefore, these pollutants can not harm the fish and beneficial bacteria in the biofilter. Due to this, the frequency of water changes can be reduced.
If necessary, for example, with particularly high levels of contamination, an increase in the applied dose of the agent is allowed. Repeated depositing is allowed in one or two hours.
Drugs that promote the growth of beneficial colonies
bacteria or are ready concentrate bacteria
Tetra Bactozym - This conditioner, accelerating the process of stabilization of biological equilibrium, in the filter and aquarium. Suitable for fresh and sea water.
Tetra Bactozym accelerates the conversion of nitrites to nitrates and contains a concentrate of enzymes and substances that contribute to the development of beneficial aquarium microflora. It makes water crystal clear and provides enzymatic decomposition of dissolved organics. The use of an air conditioner reduces the damage done to the beneficial microflora when changing water and washing the filters, and restores microorganisms that are weakened or damaged by the use of medicines.
We draw your attention to the fact that biostarters contain various types of cultures of bacteria and enzymes. Too high or low temperatures reduce their effectiveness.
Tetra NitranMinus Perls (granules) - for reliable reduction of nitrate in water. The drug eliminates the nutritional element necessary for the development of algae, which allows for a long time to improve water quality, reducing, thereby, the need for care of the aquarium.
- lowering the level of nitrates by 12 months by biological means.
- significantly algae growth is restrained.
- just buried in the ground.
Tetra NitrateMinus (liquid conditioner) - biological reduction of nitrates, calculated for 12 months. Improves water quality. Interferes with formation and growth of seaweed (duckweed). Designed for all types of marine and freshwater aquariums.
Convenient dosing: 2.5 ml of new liquid NitrateMinus for every 10 liters of water, once a week.
Like NitrateMinus in granules (Pearls), liquid NitrateMinus facilitates the processing of nitrates into nitrogen and lowers carbonate hardness. A decrease in nitrates by 60 mg / l leads to an increase in carbonate hardness of approximately 3 KH. With regular use of the drug after replacing water, the pH of the water stabilizes and the risk of falling acidity decreases.
Полная совместимость, NitrateMinus основан на биологических процессах в аквариуме и полностью безопасен для рыб. Он прекрасно сочетается с TetraAqua EasyBalance и другими продуктами Tetra.
Sera bio nitrivec (Sera bio nitrivek) - a drug for quick launch of the aquarium. Special blend of various high-quality cleansing bacteria for aquariums. Sera nitrivek prevents the accumulation of ammonium and nitrite. The use of Sera nitrivek makes it possible to place the fish in the newly created aquarium already 24 hours after application. When entering the water bacteria
begin to act immediately. The resulting effect is stored in
For a long time, giving a crystal water aquarium water.
There are other drugs of identical orientation. I recommend sharing Tetra Bactozym and Tetra NitranMinus Perls.
And when using NO2NO3 flashes, use zeolite.


How else can you achieve a “good biobalance”?


- Biological equilibrium is more stable if live aquarium plants are present in the aquarium. Plants partially absorb the decay elements of living organics and thereby reduce their concentration. The more aquarium plants, the better. I recommend to read the article. AQUARIUM PLANTS ALL FOR BEGINNERS.
- Aquarium snails and fish "orderlies" will help you in cleaning the aquarium. "Squad" of the same coil snails copes with dying leaves and organic matter. Fish nurses also help in this matter. The majority of aquarium catfish can be attributed to them: corridors, antsistrusy, girinoheiliusy, aquatic sequences, thoracacums, and many others.
- It is advisable to use multistage filtration of aquarium water. And also use other methods to improve water quality, for example, phyto filtration.

Useful video about muddy water in the aquarium



Why aquarium - all the answers


Why an aquarium ...?

Often children are called Pochemuchkas, because everything is interesting for them, everything is curious and you need to get an answer to everything.

The same situation is with newcomers aquarists. In the new aquarium, biological processes are beginning to take an active course, along the way a lot of questions arise, incidents and "emergency situations" occur.

In confirmation of this, I will cite statistics. The request "Why the aquarium ..." is being driven into more than 15,000 people every month into the Yandex search engine! In the Internet, including on our website, many articles have been written that respond to the "why hard questions" beginners. But, they are all scattered. In this article I would like to put everything together and make some kind of starting point for all questions starting with "Why an aquarium ..." So,

Why does the aquarium grow turbid, turn green, bloom and turn black?

Why is the aquarium covered with bloom or mucus?

Perhaps - this is the most popular question asked by beginners. The answer is simple. An aquarium is a closed system in which biological processes take place, not mood or violation of any of these processes, leads to visual disturbances of the aesthetic appearance of the aquarium, be it clouding, greening of the aquarium and so on. These visual signals, as if to say to a beginner - “your aquarium is not in order” !!!
Each "visual case" is purely individual and the causes, and most importantly, the methods of elimination are different. Therefore, below will provide links to materials that will give a full answer:
MUTT AQUARIUM
Flying on the walls of the aquarium and the stones: Green scurf in the aquarium, white scum in the aquarium, mucus in the aquarium !!!
How to change the water in the aquarium
HOW TO WASH THE AQUARIUM
AQUARIUM HAS GOT: chemistry, soap, paint

Why are dying, sick aquarium fish?

The death of the fish is either due to improper maintenance, or due to illness.
For the wrong content, see the articles:
Why do fish die
The first symptoms of fish disease
WHAT TO DO IF FISHES ARE DISEASE OR SUSTAINABLE
For diseases see:
Section "Diseases of fish"

Why do aquarium snails die?

Here is a similar situation as with fish. Look here for details - Snail ampoules die - Forum aquarists.

Why do aquarium fish lie on the bottom, swim to the top of the belly, rub against the sand and other decorations?

All of the above symptoms are signs of fish disease. In such cases, immediate treatment is needed, and most importantly, bringing the aquarium into a proper condition. In short, we can say that the fish lie at the bottom of either the lack of oxygen in the water, or the weakening of the immunity caused by the disease. You need to either eliminate the cause - turn on the filter at full capacity, aerate and reduce the temperature of the water, or determine the type of disease: fungus, bacterial infection, protozoa or parasites and conduct a course of treatment with appropriate drugs.
Often, trivial things lead to negative consequences. For example, if goldfish are fed only with dry food, then 100% in a month they will start swimming belly up or on their side. They just start to "get sick" from such food and from swallowing air from the surface of the water))) The question is solved simply - at least twice a week, feed your petrolls with live food and they will start to swim as it should.
Each case is also individual, so I propose to use the section of our forum. "Diseases of fish" and ask your questions there by clicking on the button "" in the appropriate section.

Why does stink, smell, pollute aquarium?

The signal of improper care, improper or inadequate filtration of aquarium water, can be not only “visual effects”, but also olfactory. In addition, the unpleasant smell from the aquarium, as it may arise from the process of decay of the dead organics. Count the fish, mollusk, etc. - can someone lies at the bottom and "spoils the water"))). I recommend to look at the following articles:
Good filter for aquarium
Aeration Aquarium
MOLDON ON WATER: How to get rid of the film on the water of the aquarium!
If you did not find the answer to your question, ask it at our FORUM.
We will definitely try to help you!

fanfishka.ru

If the water dimmed after starting the aquarium

After the first start of the aquarium, sometimes the water becomes cloudy, thus acquiring an uncharacteristic color. In itself, turbidity is not a terrible phenomenon, it is a signal that something is wrong in the water and there is a need to do preventive procedures to eliminate the problem. Turbid water after launching appears due to a number of reasons, after studying which, the reservoir can be put in order.

What is the aquatic environment characteristic of new aquariums?

A few days after installation and start-up, the water in the aquarium dimmed dramatically. Why it happens?

  • The fact is that in the "immature" reservoirs the biological environment has not yet formed, the beneficial bacteria have not spread enough, and are in a state of "stress." While they multiply massively, and after a few weeks, their colonies will adapt to the new reservoir. In old aquariums, bacteria do not multiply abundantly.
  • The water in the new aquarium also becomes cloudy from the light particles of soil, which rises under the influence of frequent water changes. When pouring water directly on the ground, its pellets rise sharply, floating for a long time. This process creates a visual turbidity of water. To avoid this, it is necessary to make a careful and gradual injection of fluid into the tank. After this, the sediment will "calm down" and settle to the bottom. Purchased fish are unlikely to create a "hurricane" in a new home - they are shy and often hide in shelters. Water with sand sediment is harmless to fish and plants.

  • Newbies in aquarism can overfeed the fish, because of what food remains to swim in the middle layers of the water, or settle to the bottom, mixing with the ground. Later, putrefactive bacteria that produce toxins multiply in the water. Ammonia, nitrates and nitrites - their decay products, which can poison all the inhabitants of the aquarium. It is better to give pets less food than to overfeed.
  • Why do small particles of white precipitate appear in water? To purify water from turbidity, some owners of home aquariums immediately add water purification chemicals to the water. Before being introduced into the tank, they must be diluted in a separate container until completely dissolved. These substances, in addition to filtration, change the parameters of water. White sediments appear on snags, decorations and in the water itself, and the fish are not feeling well. In this case, pets are better moved to another capacity.
  • Watch the video about why the water in the aquarium grows cloudy.

  • New water may cloud due to reproduction of single-celled algae. After the launch of the reservoir, where the lighting is too bright and the aeration and filtration system is poorly adjusted, the algae actively multiply, causing dregs.
  • It is necessary to remember about ciliates - microscopic orderlies of water. In the early days, they also multiply rapidly, giving the water a milky white color. At this time it is impossible to colonize the fish, for a start let the parameters of the reservoir stabilize.
  • The gray color of the water after start-up indicates insufficient washing of the gravel before laying. It is necessary to do the washing until it becomes crystal clear in running water. If the sediment does not disappear, it means that the stone contains impurities of phosphates, silicates and heavy metals. For accurate problem detection, it is better to use litmus paper with an indicator of an alkaline environment. Perhaps, it is worth getting rid of such gravel, replacing it with quality.
  • After the launch, the water became dull brown, what to do? The reason is obvious - wooden decorations can paint water, and the use of peat to soften water or filter the soil imposes its brownish color on it. Tannin and humus are safe for fish, but they change the pH level, which may not be suitable for some types of pets. The following actions - get the snags from the water, and soak them for several days in infused running water. Fish evict, and replace the soil.
  • If the water is dimmed and painted in an unnatural color (pink, black, blue) - look at the color of the soil and stones. Activated charcoal will help to bring water into ordinary color - it discolors the paint.

Recommendations for the operation of recently launched aquariums

After a new life in the aquarium wakes up, you need to do the necessary procedures so that no turbidity appears in it.

  1. In a new aquarium, do not partially refresh the water for 2-3 weeks until the microflora has stabilized. A complete change of water is harmful for both fish and plants.
  2. In order to avoid organic sediment at the bottom of the aquarium, you need to do fasting days for the fish. Give the fish as much food as they eat in 1-2 minutes. Unfinished food residues can be collected personally using a special siphon.

    See how to properly feed aquarium fish.

  3. Install a quality filter and aerator in the aquarium. Often, turbid water appears due to a poor cleaning system.
  4. Use heavy ground with a sinking fraction. Some types of sand or gravel are not able to sink to the bottom even a few days after the installation of the reservoir. Such a ground is deadly to all inhabitants of the reservoir. Either rinse it thoroughly or use coarser sand.

Causes of green sediment in the tank

Why did the water go turbid and turned green - what to do about it? This question is often asked by novice aquarium holders. It has a simple answer - strong growth of algae (cyanobacteria). Turning on the abundant lighting above the reservoir, they thrive. Turbid environment with microscopic algae does not harm the fish, but it causes an ugly aesthetic appearance.


Daphnia and shade do an excellent job with water blooming. Transfer the tank to a shaded area where the algae will be sensitive and stop growing. Then start daphnia, but only so that the fish did not eat them. A large amount of daphnia can eliminate green water. Also, algae are eaten by common snails, which in a couple of days will clear the pond to shine.

Bubble Sludge

Why on the walls of the new tank are visible small bubbles with air? The answer is: this is all due to untreated tap water, from which chlorine has not eroded. Such water smells sharply and has a slightly white tint. If the water for the aquarium correctly insist and do not fill it early, then this effect will not.

It is not recommended to settle the fish in insufficiently infused water - excess air is harmful for them. The circulatory system of waterfowl processes this air into bubbles, blocking the walls of blood vessels. As a result of this process, the fish get gas embolism and die. The first symptoms of the disease: edema of the whole body, rich dark color. Later, the fish begin to swim on their sides, do not let anyone near them. If you do not evict the fish in time, they will get worse. Restore the normal gas balance in this water, then the animals will survive and regain a healthy, beautiful look.

Why does the water in the aquarium smell like a swamp?

With the help of an aquarium your home will be filled with beauty, comfort and warmth of exotic reservoirs. Aquarium is a great place to observe beautiful fish and calm meditation. However, a damaged tank can ruin both your mood and the health of its inhabitants. Sometimes the water goes out and it stinks like a swamp. Muddy water spoils the impression, and makes the nursery unfit for further use. The problem requires an immediate solution, which involves finding out the cause and its immediate elimination.

If the water in the aquarium began to spawn - the reasons

The main reasons why the water from the aquarium smells unpleasant, are indicated below:

  • Irregular cleaning of the tank or poor cleaning (filtration);
  • Improper aeration, due to which the water is not saturated with sufficient oxygen;
  • Unsuitable aquarium plants;
  • Nursery overpopulation - little water is allocated to one adult animal;
  • Overfeeding fish, reptiles or amphibians;
  • Feeding pets low-quality food;
  • The sudden death of the inhabitants of the reservoir, the body goes dead and decomposes;
  • The appearance of sludge in the soil and water.


Muddy water that smells like a swamp - what to do?

If the aquarium fluid has become rotten, which has strongly started to smell, and even smells like a swamp, it is possible to establish the causes of the imbalance of the aquatic environment through practice and observation. In the course of the research, it will be possible to determine the method by which turbid water, which goes dead and smells unpleasant, will be neutralized. To solve the problem should be phased actions.

  1. Decide whether you chose the right fish food. To do this, change the water, buy another, better food and test it in a few days. After a day, a turbid liquid that smells like a swamp has disappeared and is clean, odorless, which means the cause of the problem was unsuitable food. In the case where the action did not lead to a result, other reasons should be sought.
  2. It so happens that you feed the fish and other animals with high-quality feed, but the aquatic environment is still muddy and "gives" the swamp. Probably, you overfeed the inhabitants of the nursery, and they do not have time to eat all the granules. Not all fish eat a lot, so arrange unloading diets for them and add less feed to the water. After a few days, smell the tank - if the unpleasant smell has disappeared. If yes, then you have found the reason. The uneaten food is mixed with the soil, decomposing.

    Watch a video on how to feed the fish properly.

  3. If you are a beginner aquarist and for the first time launched an aquarium, due to lack of experience you could create the wrong neighborhood in the nursery. It turns out that not all types of fish, snails, amphibians and reptiles get along together. Some will disturb others, and because of close space, someone will fall ill and die, quietly sinking to the bottom. Due to severe stress, insufficient shelters and swimming places, the inhabitants of the reservoir excrete feces with a characteristic aroma. After a day or two, muddy water will appear with a stench. What to do - get a spacious tank, pour water into it with suitable parameters, and populate compatible pets there. Or buy two aquariums at once, if many species are incompatible within the same space. Also carefully inspect the bottom - maybe one of the fish died, and the body is still not removed.


  4. Wrong decorations can "decorate" the aquarium with an unpleasant smell. This is not a perfume, but a living growth, it has its own life. In this case, contact a specialist (a seller in a store or a botanist), and ask whether the purchased plant is able to secrete flavored vapors. Specify the size of the tank capacity, type of soil and water parameters. Replant the plant in the right environment - it may need a larger or smaller aquarium.
  5. When the fish behave excessively actively, they try to lie to the bottom - the reason for the incorrect supply of oxygen, impaired work of aeration. To fix the equipment, you must:
  • install a compressor with high power;
  • replace the filter with a new one, with a forced circulation system;
  • Ask a specialist how to adjust the oxygen supply to an acceptable level.

See how to replace the water and clean the soil in the aquarium.

In the aquarium, the liquid is rotting and the marsh stinks - how to clean the water?

Did you find out why the aquarium stinks, but you are not exactly sure what to do? Proper cleaning of the fish nursery is your main assistant! When all the above tips have not led to the expected result, you will have to make a new plan to save the reservoir and its inhabitants. It consists in the correct cleaning of the container from harmful impurities and parasites, which are the main causes of an unpleasant smell. Before capital cleaning prepare such tools:

  • at least 5-10 liter jars with infused water of appropriate parameters for the temporary settlement of fish;
  • net, scraper and sponge;
  • big bucket;
  • thermometer;
  • special liquid to remove contamination from aquarium glass (available in stores);
  • aquarium pump;
  • pH adjuster.

Remove all animals from the nursery with a net by placing them in a jar of water. Disconnect the tank from the supply of current, light, turn off the filter and aerator. Rinse and clean the sponge. Use a scraper and a sponge to clean the windows, removing plaque, algae and other droppings from them. Take the pump, lower one end into the bucket, the second into the tank with dirty water, then pump out from 20 to 50% of all the water, depending on when it was last changed. Put gauze on the pump, and run it along the bottom of the ground, the air will make the bottom siphon. After cleaning, remove all decorations.


The scenery should be pulled out and processed, leaving them in a separate container with a little salted water (1 teaspoon per 20 liters) or scalding them with boiling water. If plaque forms on them, scrape it with an unnecessary toothbrush or gauze. After processing, place the decorations on a clean cloth to dry, then reinstall in the aquarium.

Pour into the aquarium a new, clean water of the same parameters that fish and plants used to (temperature, pH, hardness). Infused water should be three days for chlorine to evaporate from it. Polish the outer glass of the tank (liquid for aquarium glass), and then reconnect all the devices. After the procedure, gradually run the fish. Cleaning can be done in a few hours, the main thing - to adhere to accuracy.

Experienced breeders strongly advise settling in the nursery of the “orderlies” of the reservoir - freshwater snails, speckled catfish, mollies, antsistrusov, gyrinoheyls, labo, Japanese pond shrimps. The fishes living in the lower layers do an excellent job with the uneaten food that fell to the bottom, the snails eat carrion, and the shrimps and other fish mentioned above do an excellent job with algae. When settling, you should consider compatibility with each other, then your aquarium will resemble a natural biotope, with crystal clear water and beautiful living creatures.

All the reasons why greens appear on the walls of the aquarium

Aquarium fish - the choice of many people. They are quiet, do not litter, do not ask to walk at six in the morning and do not make races on sleeping owners at three in the morning. In addition, the aquarium is very lively interior, for its inhabitants is very interesting to watch, and care for all this good is relatively uncomplicated.

However, often "water house" begins to upset his owner. The water becomes cloudy, the walls begin to overgrow, an unpleasant smell can appear. There is a strong concern: whether these unpleasant manifestations will harm the residents of the glass house.

The first thing that comes to mind

The most common reason why greens appear on the walls of an aquarium is an excess of light. It may be too bright or too long. Direct rays of our Sun also have a negative effect on the state of water. The light favors the active reproduction of the simplest (single-celled) algae, which first “plant” the liquid medium and then begin to grow on the inner surfaces of the aquarium.

To deal with this is very simple. Shade a fish house. If the greens on the walls of the aquarium have not yet fully tightened them, the breeding process will at least stop. Snails and daphnids can destroy the attack. The latter must be run into the "pool" in such an amount that the fish do not have time to eat them. And if you want to diversify the population of the aquarium, buy catfish - they do an excellent job with thickets on the walls.

Some aquarists believe that partial landscaping gives good results during landscaping - naturally, with filtration. This is not true. On the contrary, such actions will lead to even greater growth of the green colony.

Hygiene and hygiene again!

The second most important factor explaining why greenery appears on the walls of an aquarium is its rare or careless cleaning. The uneaten food, the fallen leaves of underwater plants, the uncleaned sewage in time creates comfortable conditions for the active growth of the same single-celled algae. Most often, such accumulation creates excess feed. Observe pets: if they haven’t eaten a pile in a quarter of an hour, remove the rest, and further reduce the amount.

If you have a green aquarium wall, it can mean clogged filters or damage aeration equipment. It is necessary to check both that and the other at least once a month, and for filters - even more often.

And if the light is not enough?

In the first two cases described, a circumstance explaining why greens appear on the walls of the aquarium is excessive lighting: in the first one, in the second - indirectly, stimulating the rotting of the underwater garbage. And with such a problem is not difficult to cope.

However, the so-called diatoms, which like a lack of light, can cause plaque on the walls of the aquarium. For many "fish farmers" they appear in the winter if there is no additional lighting, and with increasing daylight they disappear by themselves. Such algae are unpleasant because they cling to the surface almost tightly. If you can tear them away from the glass, it is still possible, albeit with the risk of scratching, then in no way from plants.

Diatoms look like yellow or brown flat formations. The first step will naturally be an increase in light. However, if this did not help, then the reason is the presence in the aquarium water of a significant concentration of silicates. Accordingly, you will have to go to the pet store for the filter, absorbing them.

Multicellular evil

So far, they have been talking about unicellular unwanted "neighbors". However, the most terrible enemy are multicellular - cyanophytes. They are the reason why greens appear on the walls of the aquarium, with a bluish or brownish tinge. They begin to spread from the bottom, then they crawl along the walls and plants with unpleasant thick mucus. They can also form floating islands, making it difficult for oxygen to enter the aquarium.

The nitrogen-containing compounds are to blame for cyanophytes, and again, an excess of light contributes to rapid reproduction. It is very difficult to remove these algae, it is better to prevent their generation. First of all, it is necessary to plant many plants at once in a new aquarium, combining them with floating species that grow quickly (fit the elodea, nyas or pemphigus), it is better to lower the pH of the water to the mark 6. Algae-eating fish will also be very helpful in the difficult struggle. The smallest colonies of blue-green pests must be immediately cleaned. If you are lucky and if the process is not too running, you will win them. If not, you will have to re-equip the aquarium.

The good news is that blue-green algae in a healthy glass house does not survive, so this attack happens quite rarely.

Why do fish in aquarium suddenly start dying?

Unfortunately, like other living creatures, fish can die ahead of time. Why it happens? The answer to this question is often sought by novice aquarists. It is much more effective to prevent the appearance of such a problem than to look for the causes of a pet's death.

Ideal if you asked this question before the moment the tragedy occurred. Warned, so ready to control all the nuances of the aquarium and try to avoid the early death of aquarium inhabitants. Consider the most common reasons.

Nitrogen poisoning

Nitrogen poisoning is the most common problem. It often concerns beginners who have no experience in dealing with aquarium animals. The fact is that they are trying to feed their pets to the dump, forgetting that with this increases the amount of waste. By the simplest calculations, each fish per day leaves feces equal to 1/3 of its weight. However, not everyone knows that in the process of oxidation and decomposition nitrogen compounds appear, consisting of:

  • Ammonium;
  • Nitrate;
  • Nitrite.

All these substances are united by their toxicity. The most dangerous of them is ammonium, the excess of which will be the main cause of death for all inhabitants of the reservoir. This happens most often in newly launched aquariums. The first week after the start becomes critical. There are two options for increasing the amount of these substances in aqua:

  • Increase in the number of inhabitants;
  • Breakage of the filter;
  • Excessive feed.

It is possible to determine the surplus by the state of water, more precisely by smell and color. If you noted the darkening of the water and the smell of rot, then the process of increasing ammonium in the water is started. It happens that when visually inspected, the water is crystal clear in the house for fish, but the smell makes you wonder. To confirm your suspicions, ask special chemical tests at pet stores. With their help, you can easily measure the level of ammonium. True, it is worth noting the high cost of tests, but for a novice aquarist they are very necessary if you do not want to lose all your pets for a couple of days. If time corrects the situation, then the death will be avoided.

How to lower the level of ammonia:

  • Daily water change ¼
  • Water should stand at least a day;
  • Check the filter and filter element for serviceability.

Wrong launch of fish

Imagine what a fish is experiencing when it goes from one water to another, the parameters of which are significantly different. Buying a fish in a pet store, you deprive it of its usual environment, transferring it to your own, which is completely unfamiliar to the fish. Water differs in hardness, temperature, acidity, etc. Of course, the reaction to such a change will be stress. A sharp change in acidity of at least 1 unit indicates death for sensitive fish. Sometimes the difference in acidity is much more, so the shock that the fish is experiencing can end in death.

Proper adaptation of the fish to the new environment:

  • Pour the water with the fish in a large vessel;
  • Top up some water from the common aquarium;
  • After 10-15 minutes, repeat the procedure;
  • Dilute with water to at least 70% solution.

Even if several new fish managed to survive after a crushing change of water parameters, then they will surely die in the first illness. Immunity is significantly undermined, which means that bacteria attack them first. Carefully follow the aeration, cleanliness and new inhabitants. At best, the health of the fish is normalized.

Fish diseases

No one wants to blame himself, so beginner breeders blame the disease. Unscrupulous sellers only reinforce their doubts, because they have a goal to sell expensive medicine and cash in on. However, do not rush for a panacea, carefully examine all possible causes of death.

Blame the disease is possible only if the symptoms have been noted for a long time. The fish died away gradually, and not just died in an instant, for no apparent reason. Most often, the disease is brought to the aquarium with new residents or plants. Death may occur due to malfunction of the heating element in cold weather.

Going to pet stores, you should be aware of what exactly you need medicine. Each of the drugs directed to a specific disease. Universal drugs do not exist! If possible, consult an experienced aquarist or ask a question on the forum, knowledgeable people will tell you what to do in this situation.

Of course, the disease can not kill a healthy fish. Why die fish in an aquarium? If the death occurred, then the immunity has already been undermined. Most likely, the first two errors occurred. Do not rush to launch new residents, no matter how beautiful they are.

What to do to protect the aquarium:

  • Organize quarantine for new inhabitants;
  • Sanitize fish or plants.

What to do if the disease started up in the aquarium:

  • Change one tenth of the water daily;
  • Increase the temperature;
  • Strengthen aeration;
  • Remove the carriers of the disease and those who are clearly infected.

Remember which fish you ran at home last. Individuals brought from other countries can be carriers of rare diseases, and it is sometimes impossible to detect and classify on their own.

Water quality

Utilities do not set themselves the task of purifying water to such an extent that aquarium residents feel comfortable. Their goal is to make it safe for the person and his home. Hence the popularity of bottled water. Tap water contains the maximum chlorine level. In large cities, there may be a probability of changing water from artesian to desalinated. As a result, water hardness will increase, leading to mass death. You can notice this by the modified behavior of the fish - they begin to rush around the aquarium in a state of horror.

You can avoid this situation. For this:

  • It is not recommended to change at a time more than 1/3 of water
  • Settle the water in an open vessel for at least a day;
  • If possible, purchase a water filter with three secretions;
  • Use chemicals.

Please note that deaths are those fish that were already in a state of stress.

O2 deficiency

This option is the rarest of all. Oxygenation of a fish house is always adequately assessed even by beginners. The first thing they do is buy a compressor. With him, not terrible choking fish.

The only possible option is to increase the temperature and, as a result, lower oxygen in the water. This can happen at night, when the plants are rearranged from the production of oxygen, to its absorption. To avoid this, do not turn off the compressor at night.

Aggressive neighbors

Before you go to the store for pets, think over to the smallest detail, can there be several species in one fish house? You should not rely on the competence of the seller, since the main goal for him is to realize as much of the goods as possible.

A few fundamental rules:

  • Big fish always tend to eat small ones (even in the case of herbivorous species);
  • Many succumb to intraspecific aggression;
  • Some are able to stick to small neighbors, which ultimately leads to death;
  • The strong always eat the weak;
  • Buy only those fish whose peace-loving nature you are sure of.

Unfortunately, it is impossible to establish why fish die. The death of a pet can happen even to experienced breeders. Be attentive to the fish, and you will definitely notice a change in behavior and in time eliminate the cause of anxiety. More often, fish die in an aquarium because of an oversight, and not according to other criteria.

Why does the water smell in an aquarium?

Unpleasant smell from the aquarium - the problem of many fish owners. Basically, beginner aquarists suffer from this. As a result, the fish get sick and die, the aquarium deteriorates, and in the apartment there is a disgusting smell of rotten water.

In order to avoid these sad consequences, you need to monitor the condition of the water, and in case of an unpleasant smell, find the cause and eliminate it.

  • The first cause of smell is water spoilage from time to time. Aquarium should be periodically cleaned, change the water, wash the soil and plants. The smaller the volume, the more frequently the water should be renewed.

  • The second reason why the water in the aquarium smells is food. Poor quality food leads to water damage. Therefore, when a rapid odor is detected, you should try to buy food elsewhere or purchase other types of food for fish.

If, after changing the feed, the water still continues to quickly grow turbid and smell, then it is worth reducing the amount of food. After all, as you know, it is better not to feed, than to feed the aquatic inhabitants. Excess feed settles to the bottom and causes microorganisms to appear, which spread the smell.

  • The next reason is overpopulation of the aquarium. This is a problem for beginners who want to place various kinds of fish in a small container, and then begin to wonder why the aquarium smells. Each fish needs its own space, which it loses with the appearance of new inhabitants. In addition, every living thing releases feces, which leads to water pollution.

  • The reason for the smell of water can be some types of plants. This point should be clarified when buying in the store. Certain herbs are able to release a certain amount of a substance that causes water to rot. It happens in small aquariums. In containers, however, large volumes of grass exposure are not noticeable.

  • The lack of oxygen in the water also leads to odor. Therefore it is worth buying a special compressor or filter with air circulation function. A sufficient amount of oxygen in the water will keep it clean for a long time.

Why does the water in the aquarium with fish quickly grow cloudy? How often should it be changed?

Irish @

I do not change the water, but replace 10–15% every week, combining it with a ground siphon and topping up with fresh water. It gets cloudy, you need to understand why. Do not get carried away with dry food, alternate with natural-frozen moth. And even better not to feed than to feed.

Zyukanova Anna

Usually, the water becomes cloudy due to the huge number of rotting bacteria that eat excess food. When feeding fish, it is important that they eat all the food in 10-15 minutes - everything that is not eaten should be removed from the aquarium. Once a week, siphon the soil with the help of a special siphon device (sold in the pet store and it is easy to do it yourself), at the same time about 1/5 of the water is drained and the fresh water is added.
It is not necessary to change the water entirely in the aquarium, it causes biological balance and leads to disease and death of fish and plants.
And, perhaps, you have an excess of fish with a lack of aquarium volume.

Natalia Tolkach

For the first time, flooded water always becomes cloudy at first, and then becomes transparent.Thus, the aquarium flora and fauna adapts its space. Disorder only when muddy water begins to stink. Water is poured only once. And then add as evaporation.

Natalia A.

Well, the reasons for the many-problem start-up, overfeeding, overcrowding and estesSSno wrong care. For the exact answer, pliz in the section to fortunetellers. Without details it is impossible to answer. Defendants Mlyn, you will add water as you evaporate on the advice of Natalia Pusher-pick the fish, not immediately ... with time, as the concentration of ammonia increases.

Elena Gabrielyan

Turbid water in an aquarium can be for various reasons, but it is not always easy to deal with the clouding of the aquarium. Turbidity in aquarium water may be due to suspended small particles of soil, which may appear after careless pouring water into your tank.
This is an innocuous clouding, and it does not cause significant harm to the aquarium inhabitants, after a certain time the turbidity will disappear by itself, due to its subsidence to the bottom. The aquarium will be cloudy from the appearance of a large putrefactive bacteria in it, and they are harmful both to the fish and to the plants in the aquarium. The appearance of such harmful bacteria in consequence, improper feeding of fish and excessive density of settlement of aquarium fish. For high-quality filtration of water in the aquarium, you should pour washed, coarse sand, a layer of 4 -5 cm, preferably a dark color. You do not need to completely change the water in the aquarium, periodically siphon the soil with a special siphon for cleaning the aquarium soil, removing all the dirt from the bottom of the aquarium, while adding 20% ​​of fresh water, preferably the same temperature. In a properly equipped aquarium, biological balance is established and it stands for years without changing water. Muddy aquarium can be from improper feeding. Improper feeding leads to the most basic problems. From dry feed water in the aquarium very quickly deteriorates. Therefore, you should abandon the dry feed. If you still feed the fish with dry food, then you should feed them a little and make sure that all food is eaten immediately. The diet of fish should be varied, and in its composition should include live food. One of the best choices of live food is a bloodworm. It should be fed at the rate of 3 5 worms per day (small adult fish).
If none of the above mentioned things helped, try not to feed your fish for 2-3 days, this will not cause any harm to the fish, and the bacteria will die during this time. Remember the important rule: it is better to underfeed than to feed. Subject to these conditions, the water in the aquarium will be transparent. Chemical and biological processes in the aquarium occur constantly, as a result of all this, some plant organisms and animals are born, while others die. In the water column of the aquarium, there are many bacteria that are regularly processed by the remnants of food, decay products and plant activity and fish excrement. In turn, the beneficial bacteria are food for ciliates and other microorganisms. Water turbidity can occur in an aquarium where there are a lot of fish and few aquarium plants, and the water is not blown or filtered. An aquarium with such data is a good breeding ground for the mass reproduction of bacteria and unicellulars. In this case, you need to quickly precipitate extra fish into another aquarium. The reason for the turbidity of the water can also be fish, digging in the ground. This turbidity is harmless, and it is easy to eliminate by increasing the top layer of cleanly washed soil at the bottom of the aquarium. Such turbidity is harmless, and it is easy to eliminate, increasing the top layer of purely washed sand at the bottom of the aquarium. If you comply with all of these conditions, the water in your tank will be clear, clean and healthy. Water is replaced depending on the number of living plants and the density of fish planting according to the rules 1 time in 7–10 days (if the water is clean and the fish feel good then this procedure can be carried out 1 time per month and nothing bad will happen). There is a rule - the less you will climb into the aquarium, the longer the fish lives.

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