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Why green water in an aquarium

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Why did the water bloom (turned green)?

Have you ever heard that the water in the aquarium bloomed or turned green, and very quickly. What to do in this case? First, you need to find out the reason, and second, learn how to deal with it.

The reasons for the appearance of green water in the aquarium

Why is the water in the aquarium green? The reason is as follows: when blue-green algae reproduce, or euglena, to wait for the landscaping of the water. You should know that these algae are single-celled and they float on the surface of the water in the form of an invisible film. Euglena is an important part of the food chain of the underwater world, and under the necessary conditions (reduction of nutrients, carbon dioxide and oxygen, a wide range of temperature conditions), it is rapidly multiplying. It is not so easy to get rid of the flowering of water, given its sudden flashes. With strong light (green algae love it), with frequent renewal of water using chemicals, the biological filtration system of aquarium water gets lost, as a result of which euglena multiplies and grows.


How green algae appear in water - additional reasons

Blue-green algae like long-lasting lighting, more than 10-12 hours a day. This is another reason why the reservoir blooms. When you start a new aquarium, you should light it gradually, starting from 4 hours a day, increasing the number of daylight hours to 10 hours. Also, do not forget that with an excess of fertilizers for plants, the amount of phosphorus decreases. Plants grow poorly, and the water begins to turn green. That is why it is necessary to eliminate all the errors that are allowed during the maintenance of the aquarium:

  • When starting the aquarium, the illumination is set up incorrectly, a large number of plants are planted;

Watch the video story about aquarium lighting.

  • Frequent tank maintenance (water renewal, cleaning, aeration);
  • Enhanced feeding of fish;
  • High water temperature in the tank;
  • Reverse cases - a rare care for the aquarium - not enough aeration, fresh water, no compressor.

Green turbidity of water - not a sentence

Why is water blooming not a sentence? If you know the main thing that "green" causes ammonia emitted by algae, everything will quickly fall into place. New, recently launched aquariums are sometimes not serviced correctly, which causes an incorrect nitrogen cycle. The first outbreak of euglena can lead to the fact that it will be difficult to get rid of it forever. To regulate the nitrogen cycle when starting the aquarium, turn on the light for only a couple of hours for 30 days, use the “old” water from the old aquarium and the used filter cartridge. This normalizes the nitrogen cycle.

There are more ways to get rid of algae. What to do:

  • Use an ultraviolet sterilizer to help neutralize euglen. Once turned on, it will destroy algae cells with ultraviolet light.

See how to choose the right UV sterilizer.

  • Install a diatom filter - an effective way when dealing with green algae.

  • Turn off the light in time. This method controls the appearance of "green" water, and will save time and money on additional equipment. Cover the aquarium on time. Feed the fish and other inhabitants of the aquarium for 7 hours of daylight. Healthy plants can live in water for about a week without using light. After the procedure, you can change 30% of the water to fresh.
  • The use of coagulants - small particles in a mechanical filter that removes flowering from a water tank.
  • Destroys the blue-green algae granular activated carbon added to the filter. In the process of "treatment" the filter can be cleaned 1-2 times a week.
  • The use of micro cartridges also blocks outbreaks of flowering.
  • In certain cases, combine these methods while simultaneously applying filters and ultraviolet (as an example).

How to deal with fish, if the water turned green?

The disturbed biological balance of the aquatic environment quickly deteriorates the health of living beings living in it. There are good recommendations that are suitable for aquariums with small fish, where the water is green, and the plants are not planted deep in the ground. To prevent the fish from getting sick, the following procedures should be performed:

  • send pets to other aquariums or tanks with clean water and similar composition of water; make sure the fish do not get sick;


  • transplant plants into other containers, adding methylene blue to them - the dose can be found on the package;
  • clean the aquarium from the old soil, and buy a new one, treat it from parasites;
  • dispose of green water (pour it into drains);
  • empty container should be washed, filled with new water, adding to it 1-2 teaspoons of soda, which will create alkali;
  • leave the aquarium with soda for 24 hours;
  • re-boil the aquarium snags, the grottoes and artificial decorations can be transplanted into the aquarium with soda, after treatment, rinse everything in running water;
  • After the procedure, you can start the aquarium again.

What caused the bloom of water in aquariums?

Almost all aquarium lovers ask the same question: why is the water in the aquarium turning green? And although this phenomenon does not harm the inhabitants of the small underwater world, from the point of view of aesthetics, the aquarium view is spoiled. In addition, the green water in the aquarium will be disastrous dangerous for fish running directly from a clean pond.

We will try to figure out why water is blooming, and what to do about it.

Main reasons

Water blooms for various reasons, and therefore you need to have a general idea of ​​all of them. So:

  • First of all, improper lighting can spoil the water in the aquarium. This is due to the fact that the aquarist simply does not know the simplest rules of lighting. Water may bloom due to excessive lighting in the aquarium or due to improperly selected light mode for the season;
  • also, the water in the aquarium may bloom due to pollution;
  • finally, another reason for the bloom of water is improper feeding.

Often, beginning aquarists, because of ignorance of the key feeding rules, themselves provoke the fact that the water is green. This may be caused by a large amount of feed. Since the fish do not eat much at once, the remains of food settle to the bottom of the aquarium and begin to rot.

That is why there is a blooming of water in the aquarium. Accordingly, in order to prevent this, it is necessary not to make the listed errors. But what if the water in the aquarium has already become green?

Elimination of provoking factors

It is clear that you will need to clean the aquarium and change the water. True, you should not just constantly change the water. The fact is that the algae will only multiply more actively. But you also need to eliminate the cause. Above, we examined the main factors that cause water blooming. If these factors are established correctly, the following measures can be taken.

If the cause is lighting

Objectively speaking, the issue of lighting is solved even during the installation of the aquarium. But if this has not been done before, you can do the following. First, try to darken the aquarium slightly. Secondly, try to ensure the appropriate light mode for the season. This means that in the winter the underwater world should receive coverage about 10 hours a day, while in the summer it will take 12 hours;

If it's pollution

In this case, you need to quickly and efficiently clean the water. In this issue, you can consider several useful recommendations.

  • So, you can run more daphnids alive. A little more means as much as your fish cannot eat at a time. The fact is that daphnias effectively deal with algae that fill the space under water;
  • You can also purchase special drugs that are designed specifically for cases with green water. Such drugs are sold in almost all pet stores;
  • An effective way would be to settle into the aquarium of such creatures who love to eat algae and, therefore, help in matters of water clarification. Such creatures include mollies, snails, shrimps, catfish;
  • If soil contamination is observed, it should be thoroughly cleaned. At this time, the inhabitants of the aquarium should be transplanted into a different container;
  • It is possible that the pollution is due to equipment malfunction, so it is worth checking its condition;
  • They also recommend using a chemical cleaning method. Its essence lies in the fact that streptomycin powder dissolves in water, and the resulting solution is added to the aquarium. Do not be afraid, because this method is absolutely safe for fish;
  • In addition, there are specially designed filters to eliminate green water. For example, there is a sterilizer that destroys algae with ultraviolet rays.

If contamination is caused by improper feeding

Everything is very simple here. If you have accurately determined that water is polluted due to improper feeding, then you need to carefully study the relevant instructions. To properly feed the fish, you will need to strictly follow the instructions of such instructions.

Thus, to eliminate the flowering of water in the aquarium is quite simple. But for this it is important to determine why this is happening.

All the reasons why greens appear on the walls of the aquarium

Aquarium fish - the choice of many people. They are quiet, do not litter, do not ask to walk at six in the morning and do not make races on sleeping owners at three in the morning. In addition, the aquarium is very lively interior, for its inhabitants is very interesting to watch, and care for all this good is relatively uncomplicated.

However, often "water house" begins to upset his owner. The water becomes cloudy, the walls begin to overgrow, an unpleasant smell can appear. There is a strong concern: whether these unpleasant manifestations will harm the residents of the glass house.

The first thing that comes to mind

The most common reason why greens appear on the walls of an aquarium is an excess of light. It may be too bright or too long. Direct rays of our Sun also have a negative effect on the state of water. The light favors the active reproduction of the simplest (single-celled) algae, which first “plant” the liquid medium and then begin to grow on the inner surfaces of the aquarium.

To deal with this is very simple. Shade a fish house. If the greens on the walls of the aquarium have not yet fully tightened them, the breeding process will at least stop. Snails and daphnids can destroy the attack. The latter must be run into the "pool" in such an amount that the fish do not have time to eat them. And if you want to diversify the population of the aquarium, buy catfish - they do an excellent job with thickets on the walls.

Some aquarists believe that partial landscaping gives good results during landscaping - naturally, with filtration. This is not true. On the contrary, such actions will lead to even greater growth of the green colony.

Hygiene and hygiene again!

The second most important factor explaining why greenery appears on the walls of an aquarium is its rare or careless cleaning. The uneaten food, the fallen leaves of underwater plants, the uncleaned sewage in time creates comfortable conditions for the active growth of the same single-celled algae. Most often, such accumulation creates excess feed. Observe pets: if they haven’t eaten a pile in a quarter of an hour, remove the rest, and further reduce the amount.

If you have a green aquarium wall, it can mean clogged filters or damage aeration equipment. It is necessary to check both that and the other at least once a month, and for filters - even more often.

And if the light is not enough?

In the first two cases described, a circumstance explaining why greens appear on the walls of the aquarium is excessive lighting: in the first one, in the second - indirectly, stimulating the rotting of the underwater garbage. And with such a problem is not difficult to cope.

However, the so-called diatoms, which like a lack of light, can cause plaque on the walls of the aquarium. For many "fish farmers" they appear in the winter if there is no additional lighting, and with increasing daylight they disappear by themselves. Such algae are unpleasant because they cling to the surface almost tightly. If you can tear them away from the glass, it is still possible, albeit with the risk of scratching, then in no way from plants.

Diatoms look like yellow or brown flat formations. The first step will naturally be an increase in light. However, if this did not help, then the reason is the presence in the aquarium water of a significant concentration of silicates. Accordingly, you will have to go to the pet store for the filter, absorbing them.

Multicellular evil

So far, they have been talking about unicellular unwanted "neighbors". However, the most terrible enemy are multicellular - cyanophytes. They are the reason why greens appear on the walls of the aquarium, with a bluish or brownish tinge. They begin to spread from the bottom, then they crawl along the walls and plants with unpleasant thick mucus. They can also form floating islands, making it difficult for oxygen to enter the aquarium.

The nitrogen-containing compounds are to blame for cyanophytes, and again, an excess of light contributes to rapid reproduction. It is very difficult to remove these algae, it is better to prevent their generation. First of all, it is necessary to plant many plants at once in a new aquarium, combining them with floating species that grow quickly (fit the elodea, nyas or pemphigus), it is better to lower the pH of the water to the mark 6. Algae-eating fish will also be very helpful in the difficult struggle. The smallest colonies of blue-green pests must be immediately cleaned. If you are lucky and if the process is not too running, you will win them. If not, you will have to re-equip the aquarium.

The good news is that blue-green algae in a healthy glass house does not survive, so this attack happens quite rarely.

Muddy aquarium: from what and why the water becomes cloudy, what to do


PROBLEMS OF THE MUTT AQUARIUM

problems of whitish, green, brown water

Turbidity of the aquarium is a frequent occurrence in new, just-launched aquariums. However, "aquarium murk" does not bypass the already established "old" reservoirs. On the Internet, a lot has been written on this issue. There are lots of articles and even talmudov about the turbid state of aquarium water. However, a significant drawback of these articles, in my opinion, is the lack of practical recommendations for eliminating turbidity and its causes. Yes, theory is good, but what to do? How to get rid of turbidity? What preparations should be used in a given situation, what actions should the aquarist take to make the aquarium beautiful and the water truly clean?
We will try to answer all these questions in this article.
So, the reasons that the aquarium water has become muddy are:
- mechanical factors;
- biological factors;
MUTT AQUARIUM: MECHANICAL FACTORS
theory, reasons, ways to eliminate
Aquarium water is a closed ecosystem, where there are various artificial elements that recreate the natural conditions of fish habitat. As well as in nature, water in the aquarium may cloud due to the large number of small suspended particles that were lifted from the bottom of the aquarium, separated from the scenery, formed as a result of the livelihood of aquatic organisms (all aquatic inhabitants).
It can be said that the mechanical clouding of the aquarium is trivial, in fact, it is the dirt and debris of the aquarium, which arose as a result of laziness or proper, improper care for the aquarium.
Let's take a closer look at the reasons for this action:
Errors made when starting the aquarium. Usually the launch of the first, new, just bought aquarium, occurs in a euphoric state. A beginner in a hurry puts the aquarium in a hurry, pours in the ground there, sets the decor and fills it all with water.
Alas, such a rush, later does not well affect the appearance of the aquarium. Water appears in the water, which has not previously been washed away or washed from the scenery and the ground. This is especially true of the ground. Before you lay it on the bottom of the aquarium, it should be washed thoroughly and more than once. Otherwise, dust and small particles of soil will "spread out" throughout the aquarium.
Not correct or improper care. As a result of the vital activity of fish, plants, crustaceans and other inhabitants of the aquarium, waste is generated: feces, food remains, dead organics.
If proper, regular maintenance or filtering of aquarium water is not properly set up in the aquarium, all these residues accumulate. And eventually begin to swim around the reservoir. Moreover, the residues gradually decompose, which gives prerequisites for biological clouding.

The use of "not correct" decorations in the design of the aquarium.
As the decoration of the aquarium can not use bulk, soluble and coloring objects. All these objects will sooner or later be washed out or dissolved by water, which will lead not only to a violation of the aesthetic appearance, but also threatens with chemical poisoning of all living things in the aquarium.

Ways to eliminate mechanical turbidity in the aquarium

Naturally the first is a thorough cleaning of the aquarium with the replacement? аквариумной воды на свежую, плюс сифонка аквариумного дна и чистка стенок аквариума. Извлечение всех "плохих" декораций.
The second is the enhanced filtration of aquarium water. The existing filter is cleaned and washed, re-installed. Plus, another new filter is installed or a more powerful filter is bought to replace the old one.
Tip: Mechanical turbidity in the aquarium is very fine. Under the influence of any oscillation (excitement), it sweeps up and heaves. Before the general cleaning of the aquarium, it is recommended to turn off aeration and filtration in the aquarium for 2-3 hours, a little more. In the absence of generated water currents, all small particles floating in the water will gradually sink to the bottom and aquarium decorations. After that, they will be easy to collect siphon.

Preparations eliminating mechanical turbidity in an aquarium


Aquarium coal - Absorbent, perfectly coping with pollution of the aquarium. Coal is poured after cleaning the aquarium in the filter compartment and held there for two weeks. After that, a new portion of coal is removed and, if necessary, filled up.
TetraAqua CrystalWater (drug TM "Tetra") - binds small particles that are in the water and combines them into larger ones, which are then either removed through a filter, or are deposited on the bottom. Such a course of the cleaning process is guaranteed for any kind of filter.
If small particles still float in the water, these may be food remnants, with over-feeding, or particles of soil that have risen after changing water.
The product acts on both the physical and chemical levels. The first results are noticeable 2-3 hours after application. After 6-8 hours, the water becomes clean, and after 6-12 hours - crystal clear. Dosage: 100 ml per 200 l of aquarium water.
Tetra Crystal Water is recommended even with a slight clouding of the aquarium, it is very useful to use the drug before the photo session of the aquarium. In practice, the period of complete water purification can stretch for 2 days. Most likely it depends on the degree of pollution of the reservoir.

Sera aquaria clear
(similar to the previous drug, but from TM "Sulfur") - a means for removing contaminants from aquarium water, quickly, simply and reliably connects the "dregs" of any origin in aquariums.
Bound "turbidity" is removed using a filter installed in your aquarium within a few minutes. Sera Aquaria Clear - acts biologically and does not contain harmful active substances, effectively removes contaminants from the aquarium water.
MUTT AQUARIUM: BIOLOGICAL FACTORS
theory, reasons, ways to eliminate
Aquarium water is not sterile. Even when the water visually looks perfectly clean, it contains various microorganisms and fungi that are not visible to the human eye. And this is the normal state of affairs.
In our world, everything is interconnected; everything that was invented by God is not superfluous and is needed for something. Fungi and bacteria (good or bad) in aquarium water play a crucial role for all other inhabitants of the aquarium. Fungi are involved in the decomposition of dead organics, bacteria recycle ammonia, nitrites and nitrates (aquarium poisons), etc.
Now imagine what happens if this process is disrupted? That's right, there will be dregs! Such a violation in akvaraimistiki called "biobalance violation" or "biological equilibrium."
By the time of flow, the biobalance violation can be divided into:
Violations in the "young" - a new, just-launched aquarium;
Violations in the "old" - well-established aquarium;
MUTTY YOUNG AQUARIUM

dimmed water in a newly launched aquarium

In many sources on this issue it is very briefly written: "Do not worry, the clouding of your aquarium will pass by itself in 3-5 days." And the point! After reading this, the aquarium novice exhales, says "Fuv, thank God" and calms down on it.
But, with this position we can agree only partially. Yes, indeed the first 3-5 days of the newly launched aquarium will be muddy. Then whitish cloudiness, similar to fog or colostrum (sometimes with a brownish or greenish tinge) disappears by itself. But, as mentioned above, “aquarium water is not sterile,” and the absence of turbidity does not indicate that the problem has been solved.
What happens in a young aquarium? Why does the water in the aquarium grow turbid?
In short, in the aquarium there is a setting of biological balance. Namely, there is a rapid growth of bacteria, fungi and other unicellular microorganisms. At the same time, products of life of fish and other inhabitants of the reservoir accumulate in the aquarium. Not joining of the two leads to their excessiveness, which is manifested visually in the form of turbidity of water. Gradually, the process is aligned and the biological chain closes. In other words, the amount of food (dead organics, fish food residues, feces) is equal to the number of colonies of beneficial bacteria, and of fungi, which they eat and decompose into smaller “elements”.
Based on the above, we can agree that the clouding of a young aquarium is not so scary. But, it can be prevented! Or rather help the aquarium tune faster. How? We will talk about this a little later.
MUTT OLD AQUARIUM

clouding of an established aquarium

If the clouding of a young aquarium is forgivable to an aquarist, then dregs in the old pond are his sin! Violation of the biobalance in well-established water bodies is often due to oversight, due to the lack of basic care, due to ignorance or unwillingness to know what is happening in the aquarium. The exculpatory causes of the clouding of the old aquarium include “whiteness after the treatment of fish”, that is, when aquarium chemistry and preparations were used in the aquarium. Like any "medicine" aquarium chemistry has side effects, in particular the violation of biological equilibrium.
What happens in the old aquarium? Why does the water grow cloudy in it?
And almost the same thing happens as in a young aquarium. But, if I may say so, in regressive order.
To make it even clearer to you, let's break the aquarium biological chain into links. NITROGEN CYCLE is as follows.
"DIRT AND TRASH"
(remnants of dead organics, fish food, feces, etc.)
decompose under the action of bacteria in
AMMONIA / AMMONIUM
(the strongest poison, destructive for all living things)
under the action of another group of bacteria is decomposed into
NITRITES, and then NITRATES
(less dangerous, but also poisons)
further decompose to
GAS CONDITION
and out of the aquarium water
As you understand, this process is multistage and has its own nuances.
For those that want to study it in more detail, I recommend to go to the forum thread NITRITES AND NITRATES IN THE AQUARIUM. And now imagine what will happen in the old aquarium, if one of the links, for one reason or another, falls out? That's right - dregs! Sorry for the tautology))) Unlike the dregs in a young aquarium, the turbidity in the old aquarium not only spoils the appearance of the aquarium, but is also very dangerous. The following happens: under the influence of non-excreting poisons, the fish’s immunity weakens, their defense mechanisms weaken and become unable to resist the “harmful” - pathogenic bacteria and fungi (which are always in the water). As a result, the fish gets sick and if you do not conduct treatment in time, the fish dies. Thus, we can conclude that the violation of biological balance is the primary cause of the death of aquarium fish. In fairness, it should be said that the saturation of aquarium water with excess ammonia, nitrite and nitrate - can occur without turbidity of the aquarium water. What is even worse, because the enemy is invisible.

HOW TO GET RID OF BIOLOGICALLY DISTURBED AQUARIUM

or how to set up a biobalance
First of all, you need to make regular cleaning in the aquarium, do not overfeed the fish. Remember that only the constant and correct replacement of aquarium water to fresh water is an effective way to get rid of poisons.
ATTENTION: To replace the water in a young aquarium, in order to get rid of turbidity is not necessary. In the first month, the water in a young aquarium generally needs to be tried less often and in smaller volumes. Water should "infuse."
Drugs that eliminate the biological clouding of the aquarium - preparations setting biobalance:
Almost all aquarium brands in their arsenal have a line of products that customize the biological balance.
The essence of these drugs can be divided into those that:
- neutralize poisons (nitrites and nitrates);
- promote the growth of colonies of beneficial denitrifying bacteria or are a ready concentrate of these bacteria.
To achieve the maximum effect, you should use these drugs in a complex. Especially with a flash of nitrite and nitrate.
Preparations that neutralize nitrites and nitrates Zeolite is an ion exchanger, in fact, as well as aquarium coal is an absorbent. But, unlike coal, which is not able to “tighten” nitrites and nitrates, zeolite copes with it perfectly. Zeolite is used not only in aquarism, it is widely used in other areas of human life. Therefore, it can even be bought by weight.
Zeolites are a large group of similar in composition and properties of minerals, aqueous aluminosilicates of calcium and sodium from the subclass of frame silicates, with glass or pearlescent gloss, known for their ability to give and reabsorb water, depending on temperature and humidity. Another important property of zeolites is the ability to ion exchange - they are able to selectively release and reabsorb various substances, as well as exchange cations.
Aquarium preparations containing zeolite.

Fluval zeo-carb - a filler for filters zeolite + absorbent carbon.
This is a combination of Fluval activated carbon and Fluval Ammonia Remover. Working together, these highly effective means of active filtration, which eliminate pollution, odors and color, and at the same time, remove toxic ammonia:
- Protects an aquarium from toxic ammonia.
- At the same time, coal adsorbs waste materials, dyes and drugs from water.
- Reduces the phosphate content in water.
The combination of the two products frees up space in your filter for other types of filtering.
Aquael ZeoMAX Plus - zeolite in the form of small crumb, removes ammonia and phosphates, stabilizes pH.
Due to its chemical structure, it provides excellent absorption of organic pollutants, nitrogenous compounds and phosphates that are toxic to fish, which are a consequence of the metabolism of aquarium inhabitants.
Zeolite should not be left in the filter for more than one month.
For more information about the advantages and disadvantages of zeolite, see the forum thread "Nitrites and nitrates", namely HERE.
The drug acting at the chemical level.

Sera toxivec - a drug that at the chemical level instantly eliminates NO2NO3. Since this is chemistry, it is recommended to use it as a preventive measure and once.
Immediately removes hazardous contaminants, life-threatening fish and filter bacteria, from aquarium water. Equal effectiveness against different types of pollutants makes this tool especially valuable.
Sera Toxivec instantly eliminates ammonia / ammonia and nitrites. Because of this, it prevents their transition into nitrates and helps prevent the growth of irritating algae.
In addition, Sera Тoxivec eliminates aggressive chlorine from tap water. Also effective as a disinfectant disinfectant and medication remover.
At the same time, it is capable of even more: it binds toxic heavy metals such as copper, zinc, lead, and even mercury. Therefore, these pollutants can not harm the fish and beneficial bacteria in the biofilter. Due to this, the frequency of water changes can be reduced.
If necessary, for example, with particularly high levels of contamination, an increase in the applied dose of the agent is allowed. Repeated depositing is allowed in one or two hours.
Drugs that promote the growth of beneficial colonies
bacteria or are ready concentrate bacteria
Tetra Bactozym - This conditioner, accelerating the process of stabilization of biological equilibrium, in the filter and aquarium. Suitable for fresh and sea water.
Tetra Bactozym accelerates the conversion of nitrites to nitrates and contains a concentrate of enzymes and substances that contribute to the development of beneficial aquarium microflora. It makes water crystal clear and provides enzymatic decomposition of dissolved organics. The use of an air conditioner reduces the damage done to the beneficial microflora when changing water and washing the filters, and restores microorganisms that are weakened or damaged by the use of medicines.
We draw your attention to the fact that biostarters contain various types of cultures of bacteria and enzymes. Too high or low temperatures reduce their effectiveness.
Tetra NitranMinus Perls (granules) - for reliable reduction of nitrate in water. The drug eliminates the nutritional element necessary for the development of algae, which allows for a long time to improve water quality, reducing, thereby, the need for care of the aquarium.
- lowering the level of nitrates by 12 months by biological means.
- significantly algae growth is restrained.
- just buried in the ground.
Tetra NitrateMinus (liquid conditioner) - biological reduction of nitrates, calculated for 12 months. Improves water quality. Interferes with formation and growth of seaweed (duckweed). Designed for all types of marine and freshwater aquariums.
Convenient dosing: 2.5 ml of new liquid NitrateMinus for every 10 liters of water, once a week.
Like NitrateMinus in granules (Pearls), liquid NitrateMinus facilitates the processing of nitrates into nitrogen and lowers carbonate hardness. A decrease in nitrates by 60 mg / l leads to an increase in carbonate hardness of approximately 3 KH. With regular use of the drug after replacing water, the pH of the water stabilizes and the risk of falling acidity decreases.
Fully compatible, NitrateMinus is based on biological processes in an aquarium and is completely safe for fish. It combines perfectly with TetraAqua EasyBalance and other Tetra products.
Sera bio nitrivec (Sera bio nitrivek) - A preparation for quick launch of the aquarium. Special blend of various high-quality cleansing bacteria for aquariums. Sera nitrivek prevents the accumulation of ammonium and nitrite. The use of Sera nitrivek makes it possible to place the fish in the newly created aquarium already 24 hours after application. When entering the water bacteria
begin to act immediately. The resulting effect is stored in
For a long time, giving a crystal water aquarium water.
There are other drugs of identical orientation. I recommend sharing Tetra Bactozym and Tetra NitranMinus Perls.
And when using NO2NO3 flashes, use zeolite.


How else can you achieve a “good biobalance”?


- Biological equilibrium is more stable if live aquarium plants are present in the aquarium. Plants partially absorb the decay elements of living organics and thereby reduce their concentration. The more aquarium plants, the better. I recommend to read the article. AQUARIUM PLANTS ALL FOR BEGINNERS.
- Aquarium snails and fish "orderlies" will help you in cleaning the aquarium. "Squad" of the same coil snails copes with dying leaves and organic matter. Fish nurses also help in this matter. The majority of aquarium catfish can be attributed to them: corridors, antsistrusy, girinoheiliusy, aquatic sequences, thoracacums, and many others.
- It is advisable to use multistage filtration of aquarium water. And also use other methods to improve water quality, for example, phyto filtration.

Useful video about muddy water in the aquarium



The big problem is green bloom in the aquarium

A well-kept aquarium is a true pride of the aquarist and an excellent addition to the interior solution of the room. However, it happens that the aquarium almost captures green plaque. How to clean the aquarium from this scourge?

The emergence of a similar problem signals an imbalance of the ecosystem. At the same time, plaque can occur in different shades, and have a diverse dislocation. Before you decide to fight it, it is important to determine the true causes of the settlement of the disease algae in the depths of an artificial reservoir.

Green algae aquarium cleaning

If you find a patina of green color in an aquarium, then first of all you should pay attention to caring for it. If you do not clean and change water in time, then sooner or later you will definitely encounter a green tint of water and walls. This state of affairs can be deadly for the inhabitants.

Measures to clean the aquarium from green algae:

  • Reduce the light intensity. Green algae grow favorably with excessive light, so limit the backlight time to 10 hours per day. Avoid direct sunlight, from which the water becomes even greener.
  • Daily replacement of 15% water. Of course, this process will take a lot of time, but it is necessary to do so in order to preserve the ecosystem in a neglected aquarium. Water suited for this purpose is suitable for this.

After the algae visually disappeared, it is necessary to take measures to eliminate the source of water infection. The presence of plants will help you protect your water from uninvited "guests." It has been proven that the presence of flora favorably affects the cleanliness of the aquarium and the algae do not settle on the walls, decor, plants and soil. From this it follows that it is necessary to settle as many plants as possible, which will protect aqua.

Случается такое, что водоросли переходят в активную фазу даже при большом количестве растений. Это говорит о том, что флора находится в отвратительном состоянии. Чаще всего это обозначает, что растения не получают необходимых микроэлементов. В первую очередь дефицит питательных веществ вызывает недостаточная подпитка. That is why experienced aquarists know how important it is to apply fertilizer to the soil.

Be careful when choosing a fertilizer. Since in the struggle for the popularity of zoological fish, many manufacturers proudly declare the absence of nitrates and phosphates in their products. Thus, they are trying to convey that they have excluded those products that cause the growth of algae. But, on the other hand, these macronutrients are incredibly important for maintaining harmony in the ecosystem. Most novice breeders diligently choose phosphate-free products and only make things worse, without knowing it. In fact, nitrates and phosphates are the main food for plants.

If you believe the statistics, then more than 80% of the problems associated with the lack of these elements. Unfortunately, this can only be learned in a critical situation, when plants stop growing, and algae overwhelm all the space, walls, soil and scenery begin to sink in a green patina.

Varieties of popular algae

Of course, you should not equate all the algae. For each species there are different types of struggle. Sometimes it happens that the conditions optimal for eliminating one algae act with the opposite effect on another. You can often hear about the appearance of filamentous algae.

Types of nitchatka:

  • Edogonium. At the very beginning it can be compared with the green fluff that appears on all horizontal surfaces. Appears mainly due to the lack of nutritional macronutrients. To eliminate it, it is necessary to introduce the missing nitrates and phosphates into the soil. With the emergency treatment of the aquarium in the initial stage, recovery occurs within a week. For a running case, use additionally AQUAYER Algo Shock. In order to prevent reappearance, hook up algae (shrimp or fish) to your pets.
  • Kladofora. Algae is like a thread with branched structure. Kladofora appears even in those aquariums, where systematically apply fertilizer. The most common cause of its occurrence is poor circulation of water, the presence of zones of stagnation. Most often, they eliminate it physically, that is, by cleaning the aquarium with their hands. To kill the spores, add Algo Shock carefully following the instructions.
  • Spirogyra. The main problem is that plants are not able to cope with it. For a couple of days, it can cover the entire aquarium, including the walls. If you touch the thread of spirogyra, it is very slippery and thin, easily pounded between the fingers. The only way to fight - making AQUAYER Algo Shock. It is important to mechanically clean the aquarium from the appearance of new threads. Try to scrape it from there as often as possible. It is important to limit the coverage, as this is the main reason for its appearance. It will not be superfluous to establish an algae fish for prevention.
  • Rizoklonium. The main reason for the appearance - the wrong start of the aquarium. In it, as a rule, the nitrogen cycle does not have time to be established, which leads to an increase in the level of ammonium. Set the nitrogen cycle and algae disappear by themselves. Substitute ½ water every week. In extreme cases, you can use the drug AQUAYER Algicide + CO2, but this is not necessary.

Green coating on the walls

Green plaque that forms on the walls is called xenokakus. Because of it, the walls and decorations are covered with an unpleasant shade. Xenokocus multiplies under the influence of excess light, so most often this problem occurs in aquariums with excessive lighting. Limit light output to 5 watts per liter of water.

The second most important reason can be considered a lack of oxygen or more jumps in performance during the day. If this is not your first time encountering this problem, then consider buying an H type controller. However, it is hardly possible to protect oneself from this phenomenon forever, but it is quite realistic to slow down.

Prevention in the appearance of green plaque:

  • Oxygen regulation;
  • Lighting limit up to 8 hours;
  • Decrease light intensity;
  • Establishment of snails of theodox, fiz, coils, antsistrusov and ototsynklyusov.

To resort to chemical means to clean the aquarium is not recommended only if the situation becomes threatening to all inhabitants.

Why does the water in the aquarium smell like a swamp?

With the help of an aquarium your home will be filled with beauty, comfort and warmth of exotic reservoirs. Aquarium is a great place to observe beautiful fish and calm meditation. However, a damaged tank can ruin both your mood and the health of its inhabitants. Sometimes the water goes out and it stinks like a swamp. Muddy water spoils the impression, and makes the nursery unfit for further use. The problem requires an immediate solution, which involves finding out the cause and its immediate elimination.

If the water in the aquarium began to spawn - the reasons

The main reasons why the water from the aquarium smells unpleasant, are indicated below:

  • Irregular cleaning of the tank or poor cleaning (filtration);
  • Improper aeration, due to which the water is not saturated with sufficient oxygen;
  • Unsuitable aquarium plants;
  • Nursery overpopulation - little water is allocated to one adult animal;
  • Overfeeding fish, reptiles or amphibians;
  • Feeding pets low-quality food;
  • The sudden death of the inhabitants of the reservoir, the body goes dead and decomposes;
  • The appearance of sludge in the soil and water.


Muddy water that smells like a swamp - what to do?

If the aquarium fluid has become rotten, which has strongly started to smell, and even smells like a swamp, it is possible to establish the causes of the imbalance of the aquatic environment through practice and observation. In the course of the research, it will be possible to determine the method by which turbid water, which goes dead and smells unpleasant, will be neutralized. To solve the problem should be phased actions.

  1. Decide whether you chose the right fish food. To do this, change the water, buy another, better food and test it in a few days. After a day, a turbid liquid that smells like a swamp has disappeared and is clean, odorless, which means the cause of the problem was unsuitable food. In the case where the action did not lead to a result, other reasons should be sought.
  2. It so happens that you feed the fish and other animals with high-quality feed, but the aquatic environment is still muddy and "gives" the swamp. Probably, you overfeed the inhabitants of the nursery, and they do not have time to eat all the granules. Not all fish eat a lot, so arrange unloading diets for them and add less feed to the water. After a few days, smell the tank - if the unpleasant smell has disappeared. If yes, then you have found the reason. The uneaten food is mixed with the soil, decomposing.

    Watch a video on how to feed the fish properly.

  3. If you are a beginner aquarist and for the first time launched an aquarium, due to lack of experience you could create the wrong neighborhood in the nursery. It turns out that not all types of fish, snails, amphibians and reptiles get along together. Some will disturb others, and because of close space, someone will fall ill and die, quietly sinking to the bottom. Due to severe stress, insufficient shelters and swimming places, the inhabitants of the reservoir excrete feces with a characteristic aroma. After a day or two, muddy water will appear with a stench. What to do - get a spacious tank, pour water into it with suitable parameters, and populate compatible pets there. Or buy two aquariums at once, if many species are incompatible within the same space. Also carefully inspect the bottom - maybe one of the fish died, and the body is still not removed.


  4. Wrong decorations can "decorate" the aquarium with an unpleasant smell. This is not a perfume, but a living growth, it has its own life. In this case, contact a specialist (a seller in a store or a botanist), and ask whether the purchased plant is able to secrete flavored vapors. Specify the size of the tank capacity, type of soil and water parameters. Replant the plant in the right environment - it may need a larger or smaller aquarium.
  5. When the fish behave excessively actively, they try to lie to the bottom - the reason for the incorrect supply of oxygen, impaired work of aeration. To fix the equipment, you must:
  • install a compressor with high power;
  • replace the filter with a new one, with a forced circulation system;
  • Ask a specialist how to adjust the oxygen supply to an acceptable level.

See how to replace the water and clean the soil in the aquarium.

In the aquarium, the liquid is rotting and the marsh stinks - how to clean the water?

Did you find out why the aquarium stinks, but you are not exactly sure what to do? Proper cleaning of the fish nursery is your main assistant! When all the above tips have not led to the expected result, you will have to make a new plan to save the reservoir and its inhabitants. It consists in the correct cleaning of the container from harmful impurities and parasites, which are the main causes of an unpleasant smell. Before capital cleaning prepare such tools:

  • at least 5-10 liter jars with infused water of appropriate parameters for the temporary settlement of fish;
  • net, scraper and sponge;
  • big bucket;
  • thermometer;
  • special liquid to remove contamination from aquarium glass (available in stores);
  • aquarium pump;
  • pH adjuster.

Remove all animals from the nursery with a net by placing them in a jar of water. Disconnect the tank from the supply of current, light, turn off the filter and aerator. Rinse and clean the sponge. Use a scraper and a sponge to clean the windows, removing plaque, algae and other droppings from them. Take the pump, lower one end into the bucket, the second into the tank with dirty water, then pump out from 20 to 50% of all the water, depending on when it was last changed. Put gauze on the pump, and run it along the bottom of the ground, the air will make the bottom siphon. After cleaning, remove all decorations.


The scenery should be pulled out and processed, leaving them in a separate container with a little salted water (1 teaspoon per 20 liters) or scalding them with boiling water. If plaque forms on them, scrape it with an unnecessary toothbrush or gauze. After processing, place the decorations on a clean cloth to dry, then reinstall in the aquarium.

Pour into the aquarium a new, clean water of the same parameters that fish and plants used to (temperature, pH, hardness). Infused water should be three days for chlorine to evaporate from it. Polish the outer glass of the tank (liquid for aquarium glass), and then reconnect all the devices. After the procedure, gradually run the fish. Cleaning can be done in a few hours, the main thing - to adhere to accuracy.

Experienced breeders strongly advise settling in the nursery of the “orderlies” of the reservoir - freshwater snails, speckled catfish, mollies, antsistrusov, gyrinoheyls, labo, Japanese pond shrimps. The fishes living in the lower layers do an excellent job with the uneaten food that fell to the bottom, the snails eat carrion, and the shrimps and other fish mentioned above do an excellent job with algae. When settling, you should consider compatibility with each other, then your aquarium will resemble a natural biotope, with crystal clear water and beautiful living creatures.

The water in the aquarium turns green during the day !! ! We change every day, and to no avail: (((What happened ??? How to cure water ???

Annie

In the summer, with strong aquarium lighting and high water temperatures, it can turn green. This is the result of the mass reproduction of microscopic algae, most often euglene green.
Sometimes microscopic algae also appear in large quantities in an aquarium, which cause whitish-green turbidity of water. And these algae develop under strong illumination of the aquarium.
When the bloom of water has not gone too far, it does not cause much harm to the fish, unless, of course, these fish did not suddenly fall into such water.
To get rid of the greening of water, the aquarium should be completely closed with a cloth that does not transmit light, or shade it in any other way. Keep the aquarium in this form should be to the clarification of water.
The second old, tried-and-true method of dealing with water blooming is as follows. A lot of daphnids are allowed into the aquarium: as many as the fish cannot eat quickly. And these crustaceans destroy algae: they feed on them. Only one day daphnia make the water crystal clear.
It goes without saying that a lot of daphnids can be released only in an overpopulated aquarium, since with a lack of oxygen the crustaceans will die, increasing the spoilage of water.
Water will not bloom in an aquarium if the wall of it, on which the sun's rays fall, is covered with rare gauze or a piece of thin white paper.
Often the greening of the water is not only due to the excessively strong illumination of the aquarium, but also due to the fact that too much organic residue accumulates at its bottom. If so, you must first remove them.
Green algae deposits on one or two walls of an aquarium, on devices that were in the water, on plants are usually harmless. As a rule, simply clean the glass of the aquarium with a scraper. And in order to avoid an excess of algae on plants and devices, fish are allowed into the aquarium, for example, some species of tooth-eating fish that eat them. A temporary shading of the aquarium or, if the artificial light is too bright, helps reduce the lamp power.
When green algae, rather than green algae, appear on glasses, appliances and plants, this indicates that the aquarium is lit very poorly. Brown algae usually appear in winter in aquariums devoid of artificial light.
In such aquariums and plants fall ill. Their leaves and stems turn pale, turn yellow, become thin, flabby, begin to rot.
To cure plants and get rid of kelp you can, putting the aquarium in the lit place, but it is better to install a lamp above it.
To the worst enemies of aquariums include blue-green algae. They multiply unusually quickly and inhibit the growth and the very life of plants, covering their leaves with a smelly film.
It is necessary to fight these algae as follows: clean the aquarium glass and devices with a scraper, carefully remove the film from the leaves of the plants with your fingers, and remove the dirt from the bottom of the aquarium with a hose with a hose. In addition, it is necessary to loosen the soil and put into the aquarium fish that feed on algae, they need to be fed moderately.
In addition to blue-green and other algae, filamentous algae often breed on the illuminated walls of aquariums and on the leaves of plants. If they are bred a lot, they may be confused and die small fish.
With filamentous algae, the following methods of control are possible: reduce the amount of light falling on the aquarium, settle as many snails of coils in it, put fish into it, eagerly eating yarn.
In a warm-water aquarium, these algae eagerly eat mollies with greed, and other viviparous fishes eat them, though not with such appetite.
In the cold-water aquarium, the redgrass is superbly destroyed by ruddies and bitters.
Many species of fish can be accustomed to eating yarn, however, provided that there are several mollies in the aquarium. Imitating them, the fish begin to eat algae.

Natalya Danilko

It is because you change the water every day and no sense. If this is a new aquarium, then greening is a normal process, a microcosm is formed in the aquarium, certain types of bacteria are diluted. We also had, it was difficult to breathe near the aquarium, the water was already muddy (this state was about a week, then brightened again, and so alternated a month and a half or two. Now the water is clear, there is no smell). Just once every 2 weeks it is necessary to add a little of the settled water, to look so that there is no direct sunlight, you can, of course, special. buy liquid, but we did without it. And do not pour food.

User deleted

You need (just inevitably) to clean the entire tank and the contents inside it. If you find real pure silver you can put it from the bottom, there will be no harm. Pour clean river water, it is still necessary to find clean river water! Good luck to you! The aquarium is very beautiful - it requires a lot of hustle and bustle. But beauty !!!

Alexandra Stepanenko

Do you put special bacteria in an aquarium? To create the right microflora and microclimate they are non-volatile. You need to put a bag of bacteria on the bottom of the aquarium and run the fish only a week later. Also in the pet store sold special fluids to suppress the growth of algae. When changing water, by all means take water from the bottom, use a special siphon for this ... Do not drain the upper and middle layers ...
Aquarium is great. You will succeed! Good luck to you!

Bell a morr

the first is to thoroughly wash the pebbles and the aquarium itself. the second is that the water should be left for at least two days. How tall are you? put an aerator (air supply compressor. it has a filter) and remove the aquarium from the light. do not feed the fish too often; it is filling up the aquarium.

Fronder

If your fish blacken their noses (read in the comments), then in this case it comes from too frequent changes of water, and, perhaps, settled less than 3 days. Partial or total darkening occurs with chlorinated water. Sometimes the edges of the fins and tail whiten. That your fish have no diplomatosis and no other diseases, that's for sure. In this case, it is on the quality of the water. If you continue in the same vein, the fish will die. About silver (harm) I wrote in the comments to the answers about silver.
Many aquarists when cleaning an aquarium with a small capacity completely replace water in it, replanting fish and removing plants. This injures the fish and spoils the plants.Often you can hear the full disappointment statement: "The more often I change the water, the more it becomes cloudy." This is true.
In the newly equipped aquarium in the first few days the water may be muddy due to the strong reproduction of single-celled organisms. After the aquarium is prepared and filled with water, you should be patient and not rush into its “stocking”. As a rule, on the second or third day, the water in the aquarium becomes turbid, as if a few drops of milk were dropped into it, because after a complete replacement of water, after some time, microorganisms usually grow rapidly and the water becomes cloudy. from the trash particles, and from the ciliates, the so-called "infusor cloud" arises.
The rapid reproduction of bacteria can manifest itself in your aquarium every time you replace a large amount of water, and also in those cases when you forget to remove the remnants of uneaten food (especially dry), rotting plants from the aquarium in time. Such clouding, if you eliminate its cause and wait a while, passes.
In the aquarium constantly occur interrelated biological and chemical processes, as a result of which some animal and plant organisms are born, others die.
A huge mass of bacteria that lives in the water column and in the ground processes the decay products and the vital activity of plants, food remains, fish excrement. Bacteria in turn are food for ciliates, etc.
If you do not change the water to a new one, as many inexperienced aquarists do, fearing cloudiness, then after a week or two the bacterial turbidity disappears and the water becomes crystal clear.
In an overpopulated aquarium, turbidity in the water can occur, especially if there are few plants in it and the water is not blown or filtered. In such an aquarium, accumulated metabolic products serve as a good nutrient medium for the mass reproduction of bacteria and unicellular organisms. In this case, you need to quickly precipitate extra fish. If the situation is not corrected in time, it can lead to disease and even mass death of fish, not to mention that such an aquarium looks ugly.
The water in the aquarium can turn blue from the appearance of a large number of putrefactive bacteria in it, which are very harmful not only for fish, but also for aquatic plants. The reason for the appearance of such bacteria is improper feeding and overly dense landing of fish in the aquarium. For good filtration of water, coarse-grained, cleanly washed river soil with a layer of 4-5 cm should be poured into the bottom of the aquarium. A full change of water in the aquarium should not be carried out, it is necessary only with a hose with a tube periodically (every 3-4 weeks depending on the volume of the aquarium) remove dirt from the bottom and add fresh water of the same temperature in the amount of 1/3. A properly equipped and well-contained aquarium can stand for years without a general cleaning with a complete change of water. It establishes the so-called biological equilibrium. The rest of the time, add to the evaporated one and replace no more than 1/10 or 1/15 of the volume. The maximum rate of landing fish 2 - 3 pieces in size 3 - 5 cm in 1 - 3 liters of water.

Little pig

Maybe to start reading literature about aquariums ?? ? Why do you change EVERY day water? And changing every day where you take it from - from the tap ?? ? She does not have time to defend - 3-4 days it takes!

Oksana

Do not change so often the water will not change anything, only worse for the fish will be, put the filter, I put the filter and bought special droplets for microflora. //www.aqua-shop.ru/index.php/cPath/61_206 look here.

water is blooming in the aquarium

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