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Sea Aquarium in your home! Where to start and how much it costs?

Sea Aquarium in your home! Where to begin?

Seawater aquarium can be a central element of the interior of your home or workplace.

But the question is:

What can you do to buy and install a marine aquarium?

How much time and effort will take further care of the marine aquarium?

How do marine aquariums differ from each other, and which one is best suited for a particular interior?

Not every aquarist keen on his business will be able to thoroughly and clearly answer such questions to you, let alone those who are just beginning to think about such a purchase. We will try to present in this article the main and secondary points related to the purchase and subsequent maintenance of the aquarium. Go.

In the aquarium market there are a considerable number of manufacturers. Each of them practices its own marketing policy and has certain advantages over competitors. German aquariums AquaMedic, "Israelis" RedSea, the Japanese company ADA, the Chinese brand Anubias - by clicking on the link AQUARIUMS, You will note more than a dozen other companies and countries where these firms are located.

For an example that will help us estimate the estimated cost of the entire list of accessories and materials that you will need to fully maintain your piece of the sea, take the inexpensive 30-liter AQUAEL NanoReef aquarium from Poland. Let's explore what features and properties we can get for 7225 rubles (after reading the list, you can immediately walk HERE)

- Dimensions - 30x30x35 cm.

- Existence of the external filter of backpack type.

- Equipping with two lamps of 11 W each.

- Cover glass and rear tinted wall in blue

Now we will start filling our aquarium with all sorts of useful things and materials that will add to this glass vessel the effect of a real seabed. They can be divided into three categories:

- What you need to purchase at the very beginning.

- The fact that you can buy a little later.

- Animals, which we want to populate the aquarium.

List number one:

- Sea salt. A seven-kilogram bucket of Red Sea Coral Pro Salt, which is really long enough, will cost you 1.730 rubles.,

- Hydrometer to measure the density and salinity of water. The inexpensive model of production Fluval costs us 590 rubles.

- Living stones. We take 4 kg, at a price of 1.350 rubles. for 1 kg.,

- Live stones, small / fight 1 kg., They will cost 940 rubles. ,

- Living sand. 10 kg. for 2.200 rubles.,

- Distilled water.

List number two:

osmosis for saltwater aquarium

- Installation of reverse osmosis, for example, Dennerle Professional 130 model for 5.295 rubles. It will filter the water and maintain the ecosystem of your aquarium.,

- A set of tests that read important water parameters (such as pH). Estimated cost - 6.150 rubles.

List number three:

- Two three-tape clown Ocellaris, each fish costs 645 rubles.,

- Two strombus - black-necked and / or Canarian Guido. 535 rub. for one snail.,

- Cancer hermit. Small (blue), but at 630 rubles. Or large (diogenic), but at 885 rubles. Take for a start small.,

- Actinia brick. The most exotic tenant of your aquarium will cost 3780 rubles.,

- Granulat XL dry granulated feed. 400 rub. for 250 ml.,

We calculate the total estimate and the cost of each list separately.

List

Aquarium

List # 1

List # 2

List # 3

Total

Amount

7225

10860

11445

7020

36550

Now let's analyze the main points of our lists in more detail:

Salt for marine aquarium

In no case can you use ordinary cooking or cosmetic salts for aquariums. Harmless to the inhabitants of your aquarium will only sea salt, sold in specialized stores. The most versatile and high-quality options can be the products of the companies Red Sea and Tropic Marin, its composition is perfect even for aquariums, recreating the ecosystems of coral reefs.

Instruments for measuring and monitoring parameters in the marine aquarium

Most inhabitants of saltwater aquariums can only feel comfortably in water with certain properties. Temperature, density, salinity, oxygen saturation and many other parameters of aquarium water can be monitored and controlled using a specific set of measuring equipment. Consider several types of such equipment a little closer.

Refractometer - optical device, at the professional level, measuring salinity and density of water. He assesses the degree of refraction of a ray of light passing through a tiny, a few drops of water sample. And based on how strong the refraction (refraction) of light in the sample is, it gives the exact value of the density of water, as well as the percentage of salts contained in it.

Hydrometer - a kind of high-precision thermometer (although it does not measure the temperature). So high-precision that such devices are often used in laboratory research. To determine the salinity of the water, the areometer requires a strictly specified water temperature - 25 ° C. You simply immerse the device in a filled aquarium and determine its salinity level in a matter of seconds. On the scale of each hydrometer there is a green zone, within which salinity is considered normal for aquarium living creatures.

Hydrometer - is a device that measures the salinity and density of water. It also needs a liquid of a certain temperature (25 ° C), at which accurate data on the salinity of sea water are displayed on a large and convenient scale of the hygrometer.

Living stones for marine aquarium

living stones for a marine aquarium

living stones for a marine aquarium

Living stones are a very important component of the marine ecosystem. Actually, why are these stones called "alive"? Each such stone is in fact not a real stone. In most cases, it is a piece of the surface of a coral reef and has a porous structure, becoming a large apartment building for a great variety of microscopic algae and animal organisms. They pass seawater through themselves, converting potential pollutants (nitrates, phosphates, various organic acids, etc.) into chemically and biologically neutral compounds. The water becomes cleaner, safer and healthier for fish and other inhabitants of the aquarium. This also contributes to the chemical composition of living stones, enriching the water with calcium ions, magnesium, bicarbonate ions and other minerals. Such stones can be located directly on the aquarium floor (some of them look damn impressive) and lie in the biofilter. And over time, the microorganisms inhabiting them will gradually leave their native stone apartments, finding new places in the tiny cavities of the soil or scenery, without ceasing to carry their beneficent filtering mission.

Live stones small / fight.

Exactly the same stones, only crushed to the state of a large crumb. They are used in the cavities of aquarium filters, where they become an excellent replacement for the sponge located there by default. Unlike standard sponges, small live stones are a much more powerful barrier against harmful substances such as nitrates.

Live sand for marine aquarium

live sand for marine aquarium

Living sand has in its composition, as an inorganic substrate, and tiny forms of living organisms - invertebrates and bacteria. A 3-6 cm layer of sand at the bottom of the aquarium will carry both an aesthetic function, creating a feeling of a real seabed, as well as a whole range of practical functions that benefit the whole aquarium.

- Many fish and other inhabitants of the aquarium use living sand as an abundant and permanent source of food - living organisms contained in it reproduce at an enviable rate, maintaining a stable amount of organic matter in the sand. Some other fish swallow sand in order to improve digestion.

- Living sand helps in maintaining the balance of chemicals in the water. Its alkaline structure has a positive effect on the pH level, and new calcium and strontium ions, important for many inhabitants of the aquarium, are continuously released into the water.

- Of course, living sand itself is home to many biological species - starfish, snaketails, bottom digging fishes, crustaceans. They will not be able to live in an aquarium without a sufficient layer of live sand at its bottom.

Like living stones, sand also has the ability to “age” over time. Experts recommend either to completely change it, or just periodically fill up some fresh live sand to the bottom. You can not keep the tank with live sand in the open state for more than a day, otherwise it may end in death for the organisms inhabiting it.

Summing up, we can conclude that creating a piece of the sea at home is not at all difficult and relatively budget-friendly. Completely ready system on 30 liters, will leave to you in 36.550 rubles.

Photo-collection of beautiful marine aquariums

Marine Aquarium video about the launch and arrangement

How many fish can you keep in an aquarium?

To know the correct answer to this question is no less important than to have information about the care and the creation of optimal conditions for your underwater pets. On the one hand, everyone would like to fill their aquarium with various fish as much as possible; on the other hand, overpopulation cannot be allowed, which is fraught with not only limiting the scope for swimming, but also diseases and death of inhabitants. In this article we will try to figure out how to find a reasonable compromise and not to "overload" your aquarium.

How not to do

It is often found advice to choose the number of fish, starting from the volume or number of liters of tank in which they will live. The following is usually taken as an axiom: for one fish, the optimal amount is 5 liters of water. Accordingly, in a 100-liter aquarium, you can put 20 fish, etc.

Or even more interesting: 1 liter (or gallon) of water should be 1 cm (or inch) the length of the fish. One of the professional aquarists was conducted speculative experiment, which completely refuted the correctness of this formula. He mentally took a 100-liter classic aquarium and began to try on different fish.

  • First, neon (3 cm) - it turned out that 33 pieces will be too small, they will have to look for in such a volume.
  • Then there was a golden fish (10 cm). From ten individuals of this breed there will be so much waste, that it is necessary to “rake them with a shovel”, and even powerful filters will have a hard time dealing with this problem.
  • Further there was an astronotus (25 cm). According to the formula, we can contain four giants in 100 liters, but in real life it is unrealistic to grow even two in such conditions.
  • And finally there was a protopterus (1 m). You can, of course, try to “shove” it into a vessel of a given volume, but will such an existence be comfortable? Unlikely.
So such simplified tips and advice are more harmful than useful. For they absolutely do not take into account neither the size nor the characteristics of specific fish.

And from them, unfortunately, you do not know that schooling fish can be settled in more compact groups, that “loners” need space, and fighting breeds are better kept separate. They do not say anything about repackaging a particular layer of water, and each fish prefers its own layer of water (upper, middle or lower). And about much more. What needs to be considered to make the right calculations?

Factors determining the number of fish in an aquarium

  • Let's start with the physico-chemical parameters of water (acidity, the amount of nitrogen compounds, O2 saturation and temperature).

The most important limiting factor is the content of oxygen in the water. Plants and technical means (as additional sources of this gas) make it possible to increase the density of fish landing.

To determine its limit is simple: if the fish try to spend most of the time near the surface, convulsively swallowing the air (with high-quality aeration!), Then you have overpopulation.

At the same time, it is necessary to check the temperature of the water, since when it rises, oxygen dissolves worse in water.

  • The next factor is the number, size, weight, age, food activity and growth rate of the fish.

The larger the individual, the more discharge from it. They, as well as food residues, decompose and release toxic ammonia. If there are too many fish, then he simply will not have time to recycle and will poison the aquarium. The permissible number of fish can be identified by conducting chemical tests of water for nitrogen, ammonia, ammonium, nitrite, nitrate and good results by analyzing the results.

  • It is important whether there is soil in the aquarium, what quality it is and in what quantity.
  • Do live plants and what kind they are.
  • Is filtering equipment used and which; how often the aquarium is serviced (water is replaced, the ground is cleaned, etc.).
  • How often and in what quantities the food is given, what quality and chemical composition it has, what percentage of fish they eat. There are other, but not so important factors.

Methods for optimal filling of the aquarium

In aquarism there are several options for determining the optimal filling of the reservoir. The simplest, but also the most controversial is called the rule "3.5 cm by 5 liters of water", where 3.5 cm is the total length of all the fish. Here are your pitfalls:

  • It is necessary to know in advance the final size of an adult individual.
  • It is necessary to take into account the size and shape of fish. Large full inhabitants produce much more waste, which means they need more water than they are elongated and slender.
  • You need to take into account only the actual amount of water, minus occupied by soil, plants and other accessories, which is a minus about 15 percent.

The following method is based on determining the surface area of ​​the water. (To find it, you need to multiply the width and length of the aquarium.) The larger it is, the more intense the oxygen exchange and the greater the number of fish that can be planted in a tank. For large fish, a ratio of 3 cm body to 150 cm² of surface is considered optimal, for elongated ones - to 90 cm². The method is especially good for aquariums of complex shape. Although here the calculations are also approximate and you always need to leave a certain margin.

Some more important requirements

  • Use the rule "1 cm by 1 l" only for small, thin, non-aggressive and unpretentious fish.
  • The greater the length and height of the body of the fish, the greater the volume of water she needs. For example, a 20-centimeter discus requires at least 40 liters of water.
  • Thick and slimy fish need more water. For example, a 25 cm goldfish needs at least 30 liters.
  • Small aquariums are only suitable for small fish.
  • The more aggressive the fish, the more volume it needs.
  • Schooling fish is best kept in large aquariums.
  • In a densely planted aquarium with good filtration can live more fish.
  • Select the inhabitants should be so that evenly populate all layers. One can find out who is who by a simplified scheme: the mouth is turned upwards - the upper layer is directed along the middle line - the middle layer, looking down - the bottom rock.

Specific fish - specific liters

Some practicing authors share their experiences and tell which species, in what quantities and aquariums they feel great (with the condition of normal filtration and regular maintenance). Here are some such tips:

  • Small fish (up to 4 cm: neon, cardinal, rasbor, guppy) can be kept in aquariums from 10 liters with a density of landing of 1 l per 1 fish.
  • Small (up to 6 cm: pecillia, ternation, hasemania, rhodostomus, minor, barbus, guppy) in a 20-liter planting density of 1.5 liters per 1 fish.
  • Small peaceful ones (up to 10 cm: swordtail, mollies, congo barbs, cross and black apistogram) in aquariums not less than 150 l. Density 3-10 liters per 1 fish. And for schooling water you need less, and for singles - from 5 liters per piece.
  • Medium peaceful (up to 20 cm: angelfish, golden, gourami, danio malabarian) in an aquarium from 200 l. The rules are hard to call, many exceptions. It all depends on the fish, its mass, behavior, habits. The greater the volume, the more you can increase the density of landing.
  • Small cichlids up to 10 cm need 40 liters for a pair.
  • Malawian cichlids: an aquarium of 150 liters, where 1 fish accounts for no more than 10 liters. Such overpopulation is even necessary, it reduces their aggression.
  • Large fish (up to 30 cm: akara, astronotus, cichlazoma) are placed in a pair of 250 liters or ten in 500 liters.
  • Discus fish need an aquarium of 200 liters and at least 50 liters for 1 fish.
  • Very large ones (arvana, snakeheads, clarium catfish) are best settled in aquariums at least 1.5 m in length. For 500 l 1-2 fish.
  • Soma and fights. They are bottom, they can not be taken into account in the total. The larger the aquarium, the larger the breed can be planted. "Sucker" one, "digging" no more than 5.
  • Labyrinth. One cock will be enough 0.5-2 liters. Gourami - 20 liters per pair.

What can be drawn from all this? And such that the recommendations need to listen, but not blindly follow the rules, the more outdated. Each aquarium is unique and an individual approach is needed. We hope that our information will help you to correctly solve the problem "how many fish can you keep in an aquarium."

How and how much to feed the fish



HOW AND HOW MUCH TO FEED A FISH?

One of the most important question for any living thing on the Planet is the question of food. Alas, for some reason, in most cases, with respect to aquarium fish, people forget about it and believe that having filled them with a pinch of daphnia or other food, this will be quite enough for their normal existence. However, it is not!

The diet of any pet should be varied and correct.For example, people buy kittens and dogs for dry food, meat, chicken and milk with sour cream. Moreover, they give vitamins and other supplements. The same should be the aquarium pets. Their diet should be balanced. A beginner aquarist should not be afraid of "scary words": live food, freezing, live dust. No need to think that all this needs to get, grind and cook. Everything is much easier than it seems! And in this I will try to convince you.

Various feeding fish - the key to success

All aquarium fish can be divided into: carnivorous, herbivorous and omnivorous. This gradation of fish can be further broken down into: phytophages, limnofagof, malakofagi, ichthyophages, parasitic ..., but the essence of the gradation remains the same, so we will not focus on this.
Most aquarium fish are omnivorous. That is, their diet should include both vegetable and "meat" - protein food. From this statement we can make a logical conclusion that feeding the fish with one type of food will not bring anything to good. Not getting enough of the necessary nutrients the fish become sluggish, their immunity decreases, the body becomes unable to resist the pathogenic flora, the fish get sick and die. A very good example is the research of ichthyologists, who have established that even unpretentious, viviparous guppies stop giving birth with regular and monotonous feeding them only with dry food.
Here is the table, the content of components in the feed for different groups of fish:

Group of fish

Protein

Fat

Cellulose

Omnivores

30-40%

2-5%

3-8%

Predatory

more than 45%

3-6%

2-4%

Herbivorous

15-30%

1-3%

5-10%


UNCLEAR LEARNINGS OF FEEDING FISHES First,
you need to read and study the literature about your fish. Find out their taste preferences and behavioral characteristics.
Having repulsed from the received information, it is necessary to select the appropriate dry feed, which can be divided into groups:

FORM

BY CONTENT

Flakes, plates (for feeding fish floating on the surface and in the water column)

vegetable

Pellets (for larger fish)

animals (protein)

Tablets (sinking food for catfish and other bottom fish)

mixed

There are other specialized fish food that are sold to pet stores, for example, to improve the color of fish or special food for a certain type of fish, for example, "Discus menu".
Based on my own experience, I want to advise you to take several types of feed at once and mix them in one can. This is due to the fact that aquariums usually contain different types of fish that require different feeding. Mixing dry food of the same form, we get a kind of mix that is suitable for all fish.
When purchasing feed, you should also pay attention to the shelf life and packing density of the feed. This should be done due to the fact that over time, dry food loses its properties, and if packaging is violated (storage conditions), pathogenic flora will generally form in the food. Also, one should give preference to feeds of well-known brands, for example, TM Sera or Tetra.
SecondlyWhen feeding aquarium fish you should not forget about vitamins, which are used as an additive to feed.
Vitamin A - necessary for cell growth, especially for fry and juveniles. Lack of this vitamin leads to slow growth and curvature of the back and fins. Also, vitamin A reduces stress.
Vitamin D3 - participates in the development of the skeletal system.
Vitamin E - necessary for the reproductive system of fish. Vitamins A and E are used together because they are ineffective without each other.
Vitamins of group B (B1 - thiamine, B2 - riboflavin, B12) - normalize fish metabolism.
Vitamin C (ascorbic acid) - forms teeth and bones, is involved in metabolism.
Vitamin H (biotin) - needed for cell development.
Vitamin M - lack of folic acid is expressed in the darkening of the color of the fish, they become sluggish.
Vitamin K - needed for the circulatory system.
Choline - needed for normal growth, as well as regulates the sugar content in the blood.
As a recommendation, you can recommend the following products:
Sera fishtamin
- emulsified multi-vitamin preparation for strengthening fish during and after diseases, after settling in a new aquarium, for breeding and for enriching the feed for fry with vitamins. sera fishtamin is also suitable for strengthening pond fish before and after hibernation.
It can be added directly to the aquarium water. However, it is better to add 6-7 drops to 1 fish in the feed a few minutes before feeding.
Application:
1. During the illness and after recovery of the fish, fishtamine should be added daily directly to the aquarium at the rate of: 6-7 drops per 50 liters of water. Aquarium lighting is desirable to turn off.
2. After possible stresses, such as transportation, placing fish in a crowded aquarium or in cases when incompatible types of fish are in the same aquarium, as well as with each water change, you need to add Fishtamin in the amount of 4-6 drops to feed. Fishtamine is added directly to the feed, which quickly absorbs the drug and after a short period of time can be used to feed your fish.
Fishtamine can be added directly to the aquarium at the rate of: 6-7 drops per 50 liters of water. It is advisable to turn off the aquarium lighting.
3. After relocating new fish to the aquarium, you need to quickly add Fishtamine directly to the aquarium from the calculation: 6-7 drops per 50 liters of water.
4. In order to breed, it is necessary to add Fishtamine before the spawning process begins and within ten days after the process starts directly to the fish feed at the rate of: 4-6 drops per 50 liters of water. It is necessary to wait some time until the drug is absorbed into the feed and then feed.
5. To improve the growth of fry, it is necessary to add Fishtamine directly to Micron, Micropan, Micrograin or Artemia solution once every two days, mix quickly and give enriched feed to the young fish. The daily dose of fishtamine can vary from one to five drops and depends on the amount of feed and the number of fry.
6. To enrich the frozen live feed with vitamins, immediately before feeding, add Fishtamine to feed at the rate of: three to four drops for each portion of feed after it is thawed. It is necessary to wait some time until the drug is absorbed into the feed and then feed.
7. To create optimal conditions for the existence of pond fish in late autumn, as long as the fish take food, and also in early spring, as soon as the fish begin to take food; for prophylaxis, as well as during the treatment of fish from viral diseases, fishtamine should be added daily for three weeks in a volume of 10-12 drops directly to the feed of pond fish. It is necessary to wait some time until the drug is absorbed into the feed and then feed.
Content of additives per 1 ml:
Vitamin A 500 I.E.
Vitamin B1 2.00 mg
Vitamin B2 2.00 mg
Vitamin B6 2.00 mg
Vitamin B12 2.00 mcg
Vitamin C 55.00 mg
Vitamin D3 100 I.E.
Vitamin E 5.00 mg
Vitamin K3 1.00 mg
Nicotinic acid 10.00 mg
Calcium Pantothenate 5.00 mg
Folic acid 0.50 mg
Tetra vital - provides the fish with vital energy and health, as well as a natural color.
Tetra Vital contains essential vitamins, minerals and trace elements characteristic of the natural habitat. Their content in the aquarium decreases with time, and tap water is not able to compensate for the loss. Thanks to Tetra Vital, you can create an almost identical natural habitat for fish, where they will be provided with comfortable conditions and a brighter color.
- Natural B vitamins are used to increase the vitality of fish and combat stress
- Magnesium provides good health and promotes healthy growth.
- Panthenol cares for fish mucous membranes
- Iodine contributes to the preparation of fish for spawning, as well as successful spawning.
- Vital trace elements help to avoid problems associated with their deficiency
- Promotes the growth of plants and microorganisms
- Suitable for any freshwater aquariums
To enhance the action of Tetra Vital, use Tetra AquaSafe.
Instructions for use. Shake well before use. Add 5 ml of Tetra Vital to 10 liters of aquarium water every 4 weeks. In case of severe stress, it is recommended to double the dose.
Thirdly, the most important trick! This use of live and frozen feed.
Live food is a variety of mosquito larvae, small crustaceans and all kinds of worms that are used in feeding fish. The most popular of them are: bloodworm, artemia, sap, daphnia, tubule, rotifers, gammarus.



Live food is the most useful and natural food for fish, providing them with all the necessary microelements. Such feed is recommended to be used in conjunction with other types of feed and given 2-3 times a week.
The composition of some organisms used as live food Nowadays, especially in megacities and large cities, it is difficult to find high-quality live food for fish. It is also worth noting that, along with live food, it is possible to bring "contagion" into the aquarium - bacteria, fungi and viruses. Therefore, you should always be careful with live food, it is better to grow it yourself and rinse thoroughly before serving. Knowing that many aquarists, especially the fair sex, do not like and are even afraid to mess with worms and larvae, I can recommend an interesting and even fascinating way of extracting live food Sera artemia-mix - Ready mix for growing Nauplii Artemia. Nauplii (cubs) of brine shrimp (Artemia) is a great delicacy for fry of all species of fish. Adult fish and many invertebrates also greedily eat nauplii and adult shrimps. Artemia-mix is ​​a ready-to-use product. All you have to do is pour the contents of the bag into 500 ml of water and air it. With this set, even people who have no experience in breeding live food can grow nauplii. The biological value of nauplii becomes even higher, due to the use of sea salt rich in minerals in sera Artemia-mix. Artemia eggs from the great salt lakes of the state of Utah (USA) are used in the sera Artemia-mix - especially high quality.
Here is a detailed video of how to grow nauplii
Well, for those who do not want to mess around with live food at all, there is a ready-made live food freeze. Frost for fishB - it is ready-to-use, frozen and packaged live food. The beauty of it lies in the fact that you do not need to "get", you only need to get a cube of frozen food and throw it into the fish feeder.
+ such feed, manufacturers process it and monitor its purity. The probability to bring "contagion" in the aquarium is small.
- as a result of processing, the beneficial properties of the feed are lost.
Note: Before serving, it is desirable to freeze it to thaw (10-15 min.)
And finally, the fourth trick - the food from our table. Here, look, please, the video posted by our moderator, Esta, about how her cichlids eat a leaf of lettuce.
Charming is not true! Many fish, especially cichlids, respect the greens: lettuce, spinach, scalded cabbage leaves, cucumber, and even carrots. Many people know that keeping African cichlids with live aquarium plants is almost impossible. Nevertheless, they need plant food. And such a leaf of lettuce, once or twice a week, is an excellent way out for tsikhlovykh.
Also, by the example of a user of our site Qper, it is worth highlighting the question of protein mixes made by yourself. For his precious and beloved cichlids, he cooks and gives the following mince once a week:
- BEEF HEART, CLEARED FROM FILM;
- FILET OF TILIP (PANGASIUS);
- SALMARA FILLET;
- SHEETS SALTA;
Here is such an appetizing pate! There are a lot of similar recipes and, if you wish, you can easily find them on the Internet. The main thing is that in this way you can and should feed the fish.
You can make only one important remark about feeding fish like mince - you should try to exclude (minimize) the meat of warm-blooded animals from them. The food system of fish is not able to digest such meat, because of which it can develop pathogenic flora and as a result of the disease. Minced meat containing warm-blooded animals should be given rarely as a delicacy.

How many times and how often to feed the fish?

Based on the fact that feeding fish should be balanced and diverse, it is possible to derive an approximate component of the amount of feed needed for fish.
If we talk about one-time feeding, then any food (dry or live) should be eaten by fish in 3-5 minutes. After this time, the feed should not be in the aquarium, and even more so it should not fall for hours at the bottom.
Per day you can feed the fish 1-2 times. I personally feed once, because I think that undernourishment is better than overfeeding. Feeding is desirable to carry out either in the morning, after 15 minutes. after turning on the aquarium lighting and in the evening for 3-4 hours before bedtime. If there are “night residents” in the aquarium, as a rule, these are bottom catfish (bag-tabernacles, agamixes, etc.), then for them the food is thrown “at dusk”, i.e. when the light is turned off and all the "day" fish have gone to bed.
How much to feed the fish a week? Here, too, everything is conditional and individual. I offer an example of my feeding scheme:
Monday - dry food 1, once a day;
Tuesday - dry food 2, once a day;
Wednesday - live food, or bloodworm or artemia;
Thursday - dry food 1, twice a day;
Friday - dry food 2, twice a day;
Saturday - live food + duckweed;
Sunday - fasting day;
As you can see, feeding fish is quite diverse. Firstly, various mixtures of dry feed are used, secondly, dry food alternates with live ones, and plant food is given once a week.
And necessarily, once a week, a fasting day is arranged, i.e. when fish are not fed at all. Such a day, you need to arrange necessarily, it is harmless and even very useful for the health of fish and the aquarium as a whole.
Hope the article was helpful for you! Of course, you will not immediately cover all the issues in one article, so we will be glad to talk with you on the forums

fanfishka.ru

All about aquarium goldfish


ALL ALL ALL ABOUT GOLDEN FISHES

Dear reader! This article is a team of all the articles on our site. We also tried to supplement the article with the nuances of maintaining and caring for goldfish in an aquarium.
Why do you need such an article? Everything is very simple. Many beginners in the aquarium world do not know how to contain them, make gross mistakes, as a result of which in a month the goldfish at best fall ill with fin rot and at worst pop up with the belly up.

For example, often on our forum, and on the Internet as a whole, they ask the question - why does my goldfish swim sideways or belly up? When you begin to understand, look for the cause of such a disease and ask questions to the owner ... the answer is by itself and literally lies on the surface of the water.
Many do not know, forget, or do not want to know that feeding fish should be balanced, that is, in their diet should include dry food, and live and vegetable. Goldfish are gluttonous, prone to overeating, so the question of balance in the diet for them as for anyone is relevant. As for the aforementioned question, the answer is simple - in the process of eating dry food, goldfish swallow air with food. If you feed them only dry food, fish, due to excess air in the food system, begin to float belly up. The problem is solved elementary - the fish are transferred to the correct, full-fledged feeding and after 3-4 days the goldfish begin to swim normally.
Alas, such examples are mass and it is impossible to highlight everything. But, we still try to do it, by centralizing all the information about goldfish. We will try to focus on the most important points of the content of gold aquarium fish.

Goldfish: description, types, highlights


The variety of aquarium fish sometimes affects. And given the fact that one species of fish has its own varieties - the aquarium world becomes just gigantic.
Sometimes it is even difficult for an experienced aquarist to tell what kind of fish it is. Hopefully, the following selection of GOLDEN FISH SPECIES will help you figure out who is swimming in your tank.
Carassius auratus
Order, family: crucians.
Comfortable water temperature: 18-23 ° C.
Ph: 5-20.
Aggressiveness: 5% are not aggressive, but they can bite each other.
Compatibility: with all peaceful and non-aggressive fish.
Golden, or Chinese, crucian carp in nature lives in Korea, China and Japan.
The goldfish was bred in China more than 1,500 years ago, where it was bred in ponds and garden ponds on the estates of nobles and wealthy people. For the first time, a goldfish was imported to Russia in the middle of the 18th century. Currently, there are many varieties of goldfish.
The color of the body and fins is red-golden, the back is darker than the abdomen. Other types of color: pale pink, red, white, black, black and blue, yellow, dark bronze, fiery red. A goldfish has an elongated body, slightly compressed from the sides. Males can be distinguished from females only during the spawning period, when the female's belly is rounded, and the males on the pectoral fins and gills develop a white “rash”.
For the maintenance of goldfish best aquarium capacity not less than 50 liters per individual. Short-bodied goldfish (voiletails, telescopes) require more water than long-bodied (simple goldfish, comet, shubunkin), with the same body length.
With an increase in the volume of the aquarium, the planting density can be slightly increased. In particular, in the volume of 100 l, you can settle two goldfish (it is possible and three, but in this case it will be necessary to organize a powerful filtering and make frequent water changes). 3-4 individuals can be planted in 150 l, 5-6 in 200 l, 6-8 in 250 l, etc. This recommendation is relevant if we are talking about fish of at least 5-7 cm in size without taking into account the length of the tail fin.
A special feature of the goldfish is that it loves to rummage in the ground. As the soil is better to use coarse sand or pebbles, which are not so easily scattered fish. The aquarium itself should be spacious and species, with large-leaved plants. Therefore, in an aquarium with goldfish, it is better to plant plants with hard leaves and a good root system.
In the general aquarium, goldfish can be kept along with calm fish. The necessary conditions for the aquarium are natural light, filtration and aeration.
Water characteristics: temperature can vary from 18 to 30 ° C. The optimum should be considered in the spring-summer period 18 - 23 ° С, in the winter - 15 - 18 ° С. The fish tolerate a salinity of 12-15%. If you feel unwell fish in the water, you can add salt, 5-7 g / l. It is advisable to regularly replace part of the volume of water.
Goldfish in relation to food unpretentious. They eat quite a lot and willingly, so remember that it is better to underfeed the fish than to overfeed them. The amount of daily food should not exceed 3% of fish weight. Adult fish are fed twice a day - early in the morning and in the evening. Feed is given as much as they can eat in 3-10 minutes, and the remnants of uneaten food should be removed. It is necessary to include both live, and vegetable food in their diet. Adult fish that receive proper nutrition can endure a week-long hunger strike without harm. It must be remembered that when fed with dry food, they should be given in small portions several times a day, because when they get into a wet environment, in the fish's esophagus, it swells up, increases significantly in size and can cause constipation and disruption of the normal functioning of the digestive organs of the fish, the consequence of which may be the death of the fish. To do this, you can first hold the dry food for some time (10 seconds - flakes, 20-30 seconds - granules) in water and only then give them to the fish. When using specialized feeds you can improve the color of the fish (yellow, orange and red).
Long-bodied goldfish are durable, with good conditions of maintenance can live up to 30 - 35 years, short-term - up to 15 years.

Heavenly eye or astrologer

The astrologer has a round, ovoid body. A feature of the fish are its telescopic eyes directed slightly forward and upward. Although this is considered a deviation from the ideal, these fish are very beautiful. Color stargazers orange-golden color. Fish reaches a length of 15 cm.
Read more about this Golden Fish here. Astrologer
Water eyes

This fish is the result of the inexorable and merciless selection of Chinese goldfish. The size of the fish is 15-20 cm. It has an ovoid body, the back is low, the profile of the head passes smoothly into the profile of the back. Coloring is different. The most common are silver, orange and brown colors.
Read more about this Golden Fish here. Water eyes
Vualekhvost or Fantail

The veiltail has a short, high rounded egg-shaped body and large eyes. The head is big. The color of the veil tail is different - from a monotonous golden color to bright red or black.
Read more about this Golden Fish here. Vualekhvost
Pearl

Pearl is one of the fish included in the so-called "Golden Fish" family. The fish is unusual and very beautiful. Bred it in China.
Read more about this Golden Fish here. Pearl
Comet
The body of the comet is elongated with a long ribbon forked tail fin. The higher the grade of the fish specimen, the longer its tail fin. Comets are very similar to voilehvosta.
Read more about this Golden Fish here. Comet
Oranda

Oranda is one of the fish included in the so-called "Goldfish" family. The fish is unusual and very beautiful. Orana differs from other goldfish - with a growth-cap on its head. The body, like many "Goldfish" ovoid, swollen. In general, similar to the veiltail.
Read more about this Golden Fish here. Oranda
Ranchu

Another artificially derived form of "Golden Fish". Homeland - Japan. Literally Ranch translates as "cast in orchid." The fish is unusual and very beautiful.
Read more about this Golden Fish here. Ranchu
Shubunkin

Another breeding form of "Golden Fish", derived in Japan. Suitable for maintenance in spacious aquariums, greenhouse and ornamental ponds. In Japanese pronunciation, its name sounds like sibunkin. In Europe, the first fish appeared after World War I, from which it was imported into Russia and the Slavic countries.
Read more about this Golden Fish here. Shubunkin

Telescope


The telescope is one of the fish included in the so-called "Golden Fish" family. The fish is unusual and very beautiful. Received its name for large bulging eyes, which may have a spherical, cylindrical or conical shape. Fish size up to 12cm.
Read more about this Golden Fish here. Telescope
Lionhead

The fish is unusual and very beautiful. The fish has a short rounded torso. The posterior profile of the back and the upper outer edge of the caudal fin form an acute angle. In the area of ​​the gill covers and the upper part of the head one can see volume growths that are formed in these fish at three months of age.
Read more about this Golden Fish here. Lionhead

Ryukin


Vakin

COMPATIBILITY OF GOLDEN FISHES WITH OTHER FISH SPECIES The issue of compatibility of Goldfish (Carassius), on the one hand, is quite simple, but on the other hand, it is complicated and this is due to a number of specific nuances that are characteristic of this particular family of aquarium fish.
I think this topic should be started with the fact that ALL BREEDS OF GOLDEN FISHES were obtained as a result of a thousand-year selection. Therefore, Vualekhvosti, Orande, Telescopes, Shubunkin and others - these are artificially bred breeds, which, in fact, were obtained from one ancestor - the Chinese silver carp.
Therefore, if we talk about the intraspecific compatibility of Goldfish, that is, the possibility of sharing, for example, telescopes and koi carps in an aquarium or a pond, then this coexistence takes place - all types of Goldfish are absolutely compatible with each other. But, HERE THERE ARE ONE BUT! Since all the Scrofula are from the same tribe, they are in the same reservoir, they will interbreed with each other, resulting in "bastards" or if you want mutants - outbred hybrids. Taking into account the experiments, such a joint residence leads to degeneration and the transformation of the fish back into a crucian. Therefore, if you plan to get offspring and breed Goldfish, then their species content in the general reservoir is FORBIDDEN! Before the discussion, the specific compatibility of Goldfish with other fish. It should be noted that Goldfish are large, slow, slow-moving fish. And this specifics should definitely be fat. For example, if you keep the Veiltails in a small aquarium with others, whether they are the most peaceful fish, all the same, over time, the fish will die, since the lack of free space - standards of maintenance, will do its job and the fish will simply “gnaw”.
In addition, when discussing the compatibility of any species of fish, it should be borne in mind that a single fish taken has its own character. In this connection, even following all the rules of compatibility of aquarium fish, a negative result can be obtained at the output. In order to maximize this factor, it is always recommended to plant different fish with young and at the same time, rather than gradually add new ones to old ones. Now let's look at the compatibility of Goldfish with specific species of other fish.
Goldfish and Cichlids: Astronotus, Angelfish, Discus, Akara, Apistogramma, Parrots, Tsikhlozy: a diamond, black-striped, Severum and other cichlids.
Such a union, alas, is not possible. All the fish of the cichlid family are aggressive and will not give life to the golden fish. Astronotus generally perceives Gold as a good live snack.
Therefore, to keep them together is strictly contraindicated, even with small cilida.
Somehow, I tried to combine veil eyelids with Goldfish, but alas, they had to be planted in the future. Despite the fact that the veil scalars are slow and somewhat similar to gold, all the same, after a couple of days, races began throughout the aquarium.
So, I recommend not experimenting - this is wasted time and money!
Goldfish and Tetras: neons, minors, ternsim, pulcher, lanterns, glass tetras, congos and other characteristic fish.
Here the situation is fundamentally opposite. All tetras are so peaceful fish that their union with Goldfish will be a wonderful variety of fish in your aquarium. One, but !!! When Goldfish grow up, they may burst into small tetras, therefore it is better to take “large” Kharacin fishes, for example, ternets or Congo, to Zolotuha.
Goldfish and Labyrinth: all gourami, lyalius, macrapod others
I do not even know what to say to you. On the one hand, they are compatible, but on the other hand they are not. This is due to the fact that the labyrinth, in particular gourami, very unpredictable fish and each individual gourami has its own character.
So that it is clear, I will give an example from my experience. Once upon a time, when I started my first aquarium of 35 liters and stuffed a bunch of fish there, including two marble gouramies, the latter were like mice, did not touch anyone and coexisted peacefully in the “little hostel”. But when one day I planted another blue gourae into a large aquarium, he made such a riot that it was bad even for small cichlid. I had to take her back to the pet store.
At the same time, lyalius - these are scared fish, I have no experience, but I think that it will be bad for them with Goldfish.
In view of the above, the coexistence of Gold with Labyrinths is a confusion, so this neighborhood is not recommended.
Goldfish and Aquarium Catfish, other bottom fish: corridors (speckled catfish), antsistrusy (catfish sucker), fighting, akantoftalmusy, green catfish brochis, tarakatumy and others.
In general, there is 100% compatibility. I draw your attention, only that not all somas are very peaceful. For example, Botsia Modest or Bai are somiers who can bite. Or, for example, ancistrus at night can easily stick to sleeping Goldfish, from which the latter will look like plucked hens.
Otherwise, everything is OK! Moreover, all aquarium catfish are good helpers in the fight with poop from Goldfish. Provide an aquarium bottom to the catfish and the frequency of the aquarium floor siphon will decrease.
Goldfish and carp: barbs, danios and others.
It should always be remembered that Goldfish are slow and any neighborhood with nimble fish, and even more so those who can pluck them is not desirable. I do not see anything criminal in the joint content of danios and goldfish, but I do not recommend barbs. Sumatrans easily bite Golden.
Goldfish and pezillium, viviparous fishes: guppies, swordtails, mollies and others.
I read somewhere that guppies can attack and bite off Goldfish! But, something I can not believe in these stories. I can’t even imagine how this gopeshka will be able to covet on a big Golden Fish, unless they attack the crowd))).
I admit honestly, I don’t have any experience in keeping live beetles and Goldfish. And in general, it is somehow not solid to keep golden aksakals of the aquarium world and unpretentious live-bearers together.
And I also want to offer you this topic like the compatibility of goldfish and aquarium plants.
Who started up Goldfish knows that this issue is acute, as the Golden family well just loves plant food. To avoid the disgustingly plucked aquarium plants, I give my Golden twice-weekly grown duckweed from another aquarium. It is also possible to recommend to keep Goldfish with aquarium plants that will be too tough for Goldfish: Anubiases, microsoriums, cryptocorynes, as well as mosses.
For more on this, see this article - FISHING EATING PLANTS WHAT TO DO?
Summing up, it should be said that, nevertheless, Goldfish are fish intended for a specific aquarium that require special, special attention. Moreover, the cost of these fish is quite high, they are long-lived compared to other inhabitants of the aquarium and therefore it would be a shame to lose such a fish due to the fact that some five-kopek antsistrus did not let her sleep at night. See also the article. Compatibility of aquarium fish.
What to feed the goldfish? Golden feed. Goldfish - extremely playful, cheerful and voracious creatures. They quickly get used to the person of their breadwinner, and as they approach the aquarium, they jump out of the water like piranhas with hungry eyes. This behavior of your waterfowl pets can be repeated 10 times a day, but this does not mean that the goldfish are hungry all this time. This is just a conditioned reflex. It is necessary to feed your pets 1-2 times a day with one pinch of dry food, cube freezing of live food, etc. This is quite enough for their normal growth and development. If you feed more often, the fish will behave very sluggish, in addition their life expectancy will be reduced.
Despite the fact that the process of feeding goldfish can bring you a lot of pleasure - do not abuse it. In fish, there is no sense of saturation. Do not forget about it. So do not overdo it. And your pets will long please your eyes and soothe raging thoughts.
And now from the lyrics, to the point!
Goldfish need a balanced diet. Their diet should include both live food - bloodworm, artemia, daphnia, rotifers and other food: dry and especially vegetable.
If we talk about proportions, then in my opinion for goldfish, this proportion looks like 40% live, dry and 60% vegetable food.
Live food, adore all the fish and gold is no exception. When keeping Zolotuh in an aquarium, it is better to use frozen live food, as they are safer than full-scale.
Dry feed - a universal remedy for feeding any fish. Manufacturers of aquarium feed took care of the usefulness of the diet. Therefore, if you feed only goldfish with such food, this will be quite enough for their well-being (in the sense of getting the fish all the necessary elements). But if you want to feed your goldfish to be elite))). It is necessary to introduce vegetable feed and only natural.
How is this achieved ?! Yes, very simple. You need to breed Leopard or Riccia, well, very golden people love this aquarium vegetation.
Here, please see how much duckweed grows in my week in an aquarium with scalars. All she goes to feed goldfish. Economical and non-GMO!


As it is known, duckweed and riccia grow very quickly and do not require special conditions for maintenance. For a week you will grow it on a scale sufficient for goldfish to feed. It should be diluted in a separate aquarium and transferred to scrofula 2-a - 3 times a week. That's all you need.
It is necessary to distinguish the feeding of goldfish in the aquarium and in the pond.
For feeding goldfish in a pond, it is recommended to use meat chips mixed with bread, as well as cooked porridges: buckwheat, oatmeal, millet, etc. The pond must be with vegetation !!!
If anyone is interested in this question, I recommend you to talk with our user "Muri", she is a noble ruler of goldfish in the pond!
I feed my goldfish with the following formula:
Resurrection - live food, Monday - Wednesday is dry and substitutes, Thursday - duckweed, Friday - Saturday - dry and duckweed. Sometimes I give a day of discharge - I don’t feed at all. On such a feed my scrofulous - fat and fluffy !!! :)
WHAT FEEDS CAN BE ADVISED:

Tetra GOLDFISH MENU - dry food for all goldfish.
dry food for all goldfish Tetra GOLDFISH MENU
Contains four types of feed in the 1st:
- chips with excellent nutritional value;
- granules supporting the coloring of fish;
- flakes of biologically balanced nutrition;
- Daphnia as a delicacy;
Elite-quality products designed exclusively for goldfish, perfectly recommended for many years, Tetra has maintained this 100% image.
Packing: 250 ml. Tetra, Germany
Cost: 9.00 US dollars
Special food for goldfish TetraAniMin with the formula BioActive.

It includes all the necessary nutrients and trace elements.
Very well digested fish
Tetra Goldfish Gold Japan

food for goldfish Tetra Goldfish Gold Japan
Super-class feed, granulated selective goldfish.
- granulated feed quickly softens in water;
- complete and varied diet of fish;
Dry food, 250 ml can.
Sera goldby gram - sulfur goldby gran

Very nutritious and easily digestible granulated food for all goldfish. The composition includes - Omega fatty acids, beta-gluconate, the necessary amino acids, astaxanthin, minerals, vitamins, vegetable substances, etc.
Manufacturer: Germany, 250 ml can
No way, the food for goldfish "Zohir" Coined specifically for Goldfish, taking into account the gastronomic needs of the fish of this species. Feed composition: proteins 36%, fat 5%, ash 6%. Improves digestion, stimulates growth, strengthens the immune system, provides a bright color of fish. Remarkably digested.
* REMEMBER: Underfeeding of fish is always better than overfeeding! Especially this rule applies to goldfish.Otherwise, the aquarium will be dirty, and the fish will be sluggish and suffer from inflammation of the gastrointestinal tract.
HOW TO DETERMINE THE FLOOR OF THE GOLDEN FISH: THE MALE BABY AND THE CABLE! Everyone wants to know the sex of their goldfish, unless of course the goldfish are not intended solely for decorative purposes. Real goldfish fans usually want to get offspring from them, and here the definition of sex is of particular importance. There are several ways to determine the sex of goldfish.
During the spawning period, males of goldfish are easier to identify than females. Males develop tubercles or white tubercles, growths along the pectoral fins and gill covers. In addition, males form dented teeth, the so-called "saw", on the male front fins. Females become slightly asymmetric, especially in the abdomen. They look bloated.
At the end of the spawning period and after several spawning spawns in some males, the thoracic region becomes rigid. It is rather difficult to determine this state, therefore, those who are not able to do this can be comforted by the realization that not many can distinguish a goldfish female from a male.
Here are a few more ways to determine the sex of a goldfish, but even they are useless if the fish is not even a year old *, that is, if the fish is not sexually mature.
1. Males have an outgrowth extending through the posterior part of the ventral fin to the anus. In females, this growth is either completely absent or much smaller.
2. In females, the area between the ventral and anal fins is soft, and in males it is hard.
3. Although it is difficult to see, but the anus of females is round and convex, while the anus of males is thinner and concave.
4. The male's abdominal fins are pointed, and the female's fins are round and shorter.
5. The color of the females is brighter and they are more active. This method will undoubtedly help distinguish the female.
6. You can run the female goldfish in the aquarium and watch the reaction of the other goldfish. Males will swim to a new fish, and females will not show interest.
* Do not be surprised, if in a pet store when buying goldfish, give your question to the male and the female, you will be told that this is not possible! Sex differences in the family of goldfish appear only with the onset of sexual maturity, i.e. after 1 year.
Reproduction and breeding of goldfish
Goldfish is one of the most ancient aquarium fish. Their story begins with the first century of our Era and Ancient China. Even then, the emperors of the East and Buddhist monks began to maintain, breed and select goldfish.
Actually, therefore, at present there are a great many aquarium goldfish, and their cost can vary from 2 dollars to several thousand US.
So, if you want to feel like a true goldfish breeder, emperor or Buddhist monk, then this article is for you!
Breeding or breeding goldfish, is not a difficult task.
However, goldfish are not guppies and in order to get offspring you still have to work hard and be patient. In addition, you need to have a sufficient number of aquariums or ponds.
You can't get off with one aquarium!
Goldfish breed independently, without any hormonal injections or without creating too specific conditions. Actual, good maintenance and proper feeding is the criterion and incentive for spawning producers. All types of goldfish can spawn in aquariums of a small volume of 30 liters. However, better results can be achieved in larger aquariums or in ponds.
Spawning of goldfish can occur at a temperature of 16 degrees Celsius, but it is better to maintain the temperature of the aquarium water at a level of 22-24 degrees Celsius. After replanting manufacturers increase the temperature by 2 degrees. The water level in the spawning pond should be 20-25 centimeters, the water should often be replaced by fresh and purged.
Unlike many other spawning aquariums, spawning for goldfish should be well consecrated all light day. If it is a pond, then the sunlight should be diffused, and the pond should be equipped with shelters in the form of floating plants.
Producers are planted in a spawning aquarium in the ratio of 1 female to 2-3 males and richly fed with live food (bloodworms, earthworms, daphnia, ground meat with bread, etc.). At the same time they try to select manufacturers based on their size. Especially females - the bigger they are, the more eggs they sweep out. And vice versa - small females toss less eggs. They equip an aquarium with vegetation (such as a combo, riccia, duckweed, a peristist, etc.), and do not carpe the bottom of the aquarium - on a clean bottom the eggs retain and do not die, but some aquarists set up a separate grid. Sexual maturity in fish comes to a year of life. In this case, the males appear on the gills white bumps and the so-called "saw" on the front paired fins, and the females are growing stout with caviar, their body is bent.
A female matured for breeding emits a special substance that has a characteristic odor and is particularly concentrated in the genital organs. Actually, this smell attracts males and is a signal of a female's readiness for reproduction. Under the influence of this secretion males begin to swim for females.
Under pond conditions, it is recommended to perform the above spawning manipulations in March – April, with the expectation that spawning will begin in May – June. It is believed that this is the most prosperous time for the successful ripening of caviar. In addition, at this time it is easier to provide the eggs and fry with the necessary comfort.
If the courtship of the males began earlier than March - April and the spawning should be delayed, the producers are seated and also the water temperature is lowered to the desired period (period).
The peak of reproduction of goldfish is accompanied by violent courtship of the males - they chase the female around the reservoir, and on the day of spawning, these courtships look like a frank pursuit.
Taking into account such features, the spawning aquarium is equipped with soft aquarium plants and not sharp decor (it is better without it at all). Otherwise, the fishes will sweep, and their fins will be torn after spawning.
The spawning begins with the first rays of the sun and lasts 6 hours. Spawning gold can every month until October. During one spawning, the female can sweep up to 3000 eggs. In the "home" spawning of goldfish can sometimes occur continuously - year-round. However, this leads to the exhaustion of manufacturers, and in this case they should be given rest, seated in different aquariums.

The spawning of the eggs takes place gradually - the female driven by the males touches the vegetation or walls of the aquarium and releases 10-30 eggs, which the males immediately fertilize - watering the eggs with milt.
Then, sticky caviar falls to the bottom or sticks to the plants.
Eggs on the first day are slightly orange and slightly flattened, the diameter of eggs is up to 1.5 millimeters. On the third day, the eggs are straightened and discolored, in connection with which they are difficult to detect.
Immediately after spawning, the producers are removed from the spawning tank, otherwise the offspring will be eaten.
The water level in spawning caviar is reduced to 10-15 centimeters and protected from overheating and excessive sunlight (if it is a pond). Aquarium intensively aerated.
The appearance of fry from caviar depends on the water temperature. At a water temperature of 22-24 degrees Celsius - the incubation period is 4-5 days, but at a temperature of 14 degrees Celsius it can reach 7-8 days.
On the second day after the appearance of the young in the aquarium, it is recommended to launch snails (for example, coils) so that they eat the dead and not fertilized eggs. You can carefully assemble yourself, but it is more difficult than it seems. It is very important not to kill the young. At the same time, leaving the dead calf is fraught with - live larvae do not tolerate "dirt" and can get sick.
Young goldfish in the first days is weak and harmless, in fact it looks like a reed with eyes and a yolk vesicle in the middle (the yolk bubble is necessary for obtaining nutrients in the first days of life). Fry move in spurts and can stick to the stop.
After about 2-3 days, they begin to blithely float around the reservoir, and from this point on, the young need to be fed with starter feed: live dust, the finest alga, and other finely ground to feed dust. After 2 weeks, you can give larger feed. At the age of one month, juveniles are capable of taking small bloodworms. As a starter feed, they also use egg yolk finely ground in water, as well as the soaked oatmeal grated in the dust. The fry are fed abundantly, but in portions - little by little but often.
We can recommend the following feed for young goldfish.
JBL GoldPearls mini is premium class granules, packaged in 100 ml.
It has a special recipe ideal for young fish. The diameter of the granulated feed 1-2 mm. Contains spirulina and carotenoids, which contribute to the development of good fish color, contain proteins (10%) from wheat germ, fatty acids.
After two weeks the fry are planted in a 30 liter aquarium at the rate of 250 fry per aquarium. Aquariums flush or replace water frequently. Without purging, it is recommended that 120 fry be planted per aquarium. So they contain up to 2 months of age, gradually sorting by size and reducing their number. Fry are caught not with a net, but with a saucer or other utensils. So they are easier to get and count.
spawning aquarium for goldfish
Sorting carried out on the principle of rejection. Harvested juveniles with defects, juveniles lagging behind in growth, etc. In the end, get pedigree goldfish.
Defective and non-standard young, unfortunately kill. First, because it, as a rule, does not survive itself, and secondly, even if it survives, nothing good comes out of it. With its further content, you risk getting outbred offspring "bastards", but if you go further, then the fish just degenerate into goldfish.
At first, the scaled juveniles of goldfish have a silver-gray color, like the progenitor of the goldfish. Coloring appears only at the age of 3-5 months. To improve the brightness of the fish color, it is recommended that "sunbathing" light should be diffused. In an artificial reservoir, no shading is necessary, on the contrary, the aquarium is intensively illuminated with lamps. It is worth noting that the color of goldfish can vary in fact a lifetime.
Scaleless fry do not pass the aforementioned period of silver color and already at two weeks of age begin to turn into their final color.
Juveniles of goldfish are very capricious and prone to disease. To avoid mortality of offspring, you should regularly monitor the cleanliness of the aquarium, aeration and filtration. Constantly monitor the population - do not forget to settle as they grow.
When breeding goldfish need to strictly observe the species crossing. All goldfish can interbreed with each other (for example, veil tails with comets).
However, this will lead to degeneration and wastelessness of scrofula.
Summing up, you can make a short list of what you need for breeding goldfish:
- one-year-old males: 1 female, 2-3 males.
- aquariums: the main from 150 liters, spawning from 30 liters, aquarium for youngsters; (aquariums should be illuminated).
- aquarium soft-leaved plants;
- of course: aeration, filtration, thermostat;
- feed for fry;
- improvised aquarium equipment;
- suction water;
If you have any questions, you can ask them to our expert on fish breeding Vitaly Chernyavsky, here HERE!
Why die fish or the sad fate of goldfish!
The motive for writing this article was the communication on the Fanfishka.ru form with a certain citizen who, in the section on helping to determine the disease of the fish, wrote - "Help me, please, I have a telescope at the age of 6 months. I haven’t eaten anything for three days. It floats on the surface with difficulty , there is enough air. There is no external damage and swelling. Help if you can still, it's a pity to lose the fish. "
Being a conscientious and sensitive person, I gave her a plan of action and events according to the full scheme, advised the preparations. And then, when I wrote everything, I thought - why should I treat it so radically, maybe the reason for the poor health of the fish lies on the surface? :)
In this connection, I asked a citizen: "Tell me, what is your aquarium volume, who lives there besides the telescope, etc."
When I received the answer, I just went nuts! I’m trying to get along with treatment and help, but it turns out that ... read the answer: "Aquarium 80 liters. 1 gourami, 2 thorns, 2 gold, 2 telescopes (1 patient, another healthy, but for some reason does not grow), 2 danios, 2 small antsistrus, 2 speckled catfish, 1 angelfish, 2 ampoules ... ".
The reason that the telescope was bad - was revealed !!!
Imagine if 16 people planted in an eight-meter hut, how much would they stretch? ... Whatever the conditions in this hut, the sea would start a month later.
Vendors of pet shops are selling fish to beginner aquarists, using their insatiable desired “I want this fish, this one and that one and those catfish”. At the same time, neither of them think about the further fate of the fish.
Sad! But for some reason, this is exactly the fate of "cramming nevpihuemoe" comprehends only aquarium inhabitants. Imagine, mother and daughter come to the pet store and say: "Give us 15 cats, 3 Yorkshire terriers, 5 chinchillas and one sheep dog and 2 more parrots do not forget." Unfortunately, with aquarium fish this is exactly what happens.
And then, after a while, a convulsive scripture begins and the search for an answer to the questions: why the fish die and die, why do the fish lie at the bottom, float or swim on the surface, do not grow and do not eat! HERE'S OWN, THAT I HAVE FORGOTTEN ME TO WRITE THIS ARTICLE! This is some kind of attempt to stop the mockery of fish! An article for future similar questions. An article that will somehow help newcomers and people who are going to buy an aquarium to understand that the fish are the same living things as we do - they grow, require certain conditions of detention, have their own characteristics, etc.
Very clearly, this problem is seen in Goldfish (pearls, comets, telescopes, veils, shubunkin, oranda, ranch, koi carps, etc.). People either do not know or do not understand that this family of fish belongs to large species. In fact, they need to be kept in ponds (as it was in Dr. China) or in large aquariums.
But it was not there! People for some reason have developed a Hollywood stereotype that Goldfish looks beautiful in a round small aquarium.
HOWEVER, THIS IS NOT THE CASE!!! The minimum volume of an aquarium for a pair of goldfish should be from 100 liters. This is the minimum in which they can live normally, and it’s not a fact that they will grow "to their full height."
Therefore, recalling the above example with a citizen, which has an 80-liter aquarium, in which: 4th scrofula, scalar, gourami and others ... it is not surprising to hear "My golden fish does not eat anything, lies at the bottom or swims belly to the top." And it touches the question, why do they not grow?))) But how can you grow here, you wouldn’t die!
In addition, in this example, there is a relative compatibility of fish. We must not forget that Scalaria is a peaceful, but still South American cichlid, and somehow it’s not a friend with goldfish. The same goes for the gourami - they are peaceful, but snooty individuals come across.
Summarizing what has been said, I earnestly ask everyone not to violate the norms and conditions of keeping fish. Do not be greedy! And then your fish will grow beautiful and big. Somewhere I read that for 1 cm. The body of a fish without a tail should have 2-3 liters of water in an aquarium. Who cares here is a link to the compilation - How much can the fish in an aquarium X liters (at the end of the article, select the aquarium of the desired volume).
Now I would like to talk about other reasons that lead to poor health of fish, without any visible reason (signs of the disease are not visually visible).
If the norms of the volume of the aquarium are not violated, the compatibility of the fish and their number are not violated, and the fish still float or vice versa lie at the bottom and swallow air, then the reason may be: Poisoning fish with nitrogen, ammonia, and more simply poop. We live in the air, and the fish in the water. Parameters of aquarium water directly affect the health of the fish.
In the process of life, aquarium fish and other inhabitants defecate, another organic matter dies, the remains of food decompose, which leads to excessive saturation of water with nitrogenous compounds that are detrimental to all living things.
Thus, the cause of poor health or a pestilence in fish may be:
- lack of care for the aquarium (cleaning, cleaning, siphon, no filter or replacement of aquarium water).
- overfeeding fish (the presence in the aquarium is not eaten feed).
- untimely disposal of dead fish, etc. (some novices watch snails burst dead fish, this is absolutely impossible).
What to do in this case? It is necessary to eliminate the sources of nitrogen excretion:
- urgently transplant fish into another aquarium with clean water;
- strengthen aeration and filtration;
- clean the aquarium, and then replace 1/2 of the aquarium water with fresh water;
- Pour into the filter aquarium coal and ion exchange resins (zeolite), use another aquarium chemistry (Nitrate Minus Perls, Bakozym, at least Sulfur Nitrivek);
It should always be remembered that aquarium water should be replaced weekly. However, this is not always good - old water is better than fresh, especially for young aquariums, in which the biobalance is not yet tuned. So this should also be done with the mind and as needed.If you see that the water in your "young aquarium" is not green, not muddy, etc. Replace at the beginning of 1 / 5-1 / 10 of the volume of aquarium water, but often 2-3 times a week. However, one should always keep in mind that clear water is not an indicator of its purity. With that said, it is necessary to develop your own “tactics” of water changes based on the volume of the aquarium, its age and fish preferences, etc.
Emergency fish transfer is a temporary measure, if the fish is very profitable. As a rule, when a fish is not feeling well (lying on the bottom, swallowing air, swimming on its side, etc.), such an action brings it to life and after 2-3 hours it is cheerful and cheerful.
It should be remembered that such a transplant should be done in the water at about the same temperature as in the aquarium, the water should be separated (preferably), do not forget to provide aeration. And yet, if there is no other aquarium, an emergency temporary transfer can be carried out in a basin or other vessel.
About coal. Aquarium coal is sold in any pet store. It is not very expensive, so I recommend to buy it in reserve. Coal - this is a great additional measure in the fight against "shit and other evil spirits." If it is not at hand, you can temporarily take human activated carbon, wrap it in gauze or bandage and put it in the filter. You also need to understand that aquarium coal is not effective against nitrites and nitrates to eliminate them using ion-exchange resins and other chemicals. Watch
Water filtration. It's simple. The aquarium filter must be suitable for the volume of aquarium water. Additional helpers: aquarium plants, as well as snails, shrimps and crustaceans.
In the end, we can advise the drug for quick cleaning of the aquarium from sewage - TetraAqua Biocoryn.
Another reason that the fish die can be the wrong adaptation of newly purchased fish.
Firstly, Do not release new fish immediately to the aquarium. Everyone knows that. Let them acclimatize: Therefore, about the article, see All about the Acquisition of Transplant Transportation of fish!
Secondly, fish that lived in a pet store or grew up in another reservoir are accustomed to certain water parameters (pH, hD, temperature) and if you transplant them into water with radically opposite parameters, this can lead to their death within a day or a week.
Actually therefore for the correct adaptation there are so-called quarantine aquariums. You kill two birds with one stone: check whether new fish are contagious and adapt them to new conditions. The quarantine principle is simple - it is a small aquarium (another reservoir) into which new aquarium inhabitants are launched and within a week they are checked for lice, as well as they gradually add aquarium water from the aquarium in which they will live.
You can do without quarantine, but it is a risk! As a rule, it carries in 80% of cases, but 20% still remain. In order to neutralize these 20%, I recommend to transfer fish with Tetra AquaSafe (Tetra AquaSafe). This preparation "improves" aquarium water and reduces the stress of fish during transplantation.
Third reason the fact that the small fish is bad asphyxia, caused by the lack of sufficient aeration of aquarium water.
The obvious signs of asphyxiation (suffocation) in fish are: frequent opening of the mouth, heavy breathing, wide opening of the mouth - as if yawning, the fish swims near the surface and there is enough oxygen.
You should know that the fish breathe oxygen dissolved in aquarium water, which they pass through the gills with water and if it is not enough of the fish simply suffocate.
Enhanced aeration and bringing it back to normal will correct the situation!
Another fourth reason Ascent of the fish can use tap water to the top.
Opinions on this are different. While talking and discussing this topic, some comrades say: "Yes, all this is fikhgnya, I fill in the unstable tap water in the aquarium and everything is fine - the fish will not die." However, it is worth noting that tap water in many regions of the CIS is simply terrible! It contains so much bleach and other impurities that it is scary to use it. Somewhere, of course, the water is better here and “carries” - the fish do not die. In Austria, for example, tap water is generally spring water from the Alps, but alas, where are the Alps, and where are we ?!
Therefore it is very important to use only separated water for the aquarium. In addition to the fact that chlorine will evaporate from the water and heavy impurities will settle, excess oxygen will also be released, which are no less destructive for fish.
What to do if you poured tap water and fish from this poplohelo? Ideally transplanted into separated water. However, if you originally poured water, then you probably do not have separated water. One way out is to add aquarium chemistry that stabilizes the aquarium water. For example, the above Tetra AquaSafe.
Fifth reason: This violation of temperature.
The generally accepted temperature measure of aquarium water for many fish is 25 degrees Celsius. But too cold water or too warm leads to all the same symptoms: the ascent of the fish, lying on the bottom, etc.
With cold water, everything is clear - you need to buy a thermostat and bring the reduced temperature to the desired one. But with too warm water is much more complicated. Usually aquarists encounter this problem in the summer, when the water in the aquarium boils and rolls over 30 degrees, from which the fish become lethargic and "faint."
There are three ways out of this situation:
- cool the aquarium water handicraft: using frozen 2n. bottles from the fridge. But - this is not very convenient, because frozen water quickly gives off cold and you need to constantly change the bottle. In addition, jumps and temperature fluctuations - there, no less harmful than just elevated water temperature.
- sold special installation cooling aquarium, but alas, they are expensive.
- buy an air conditioner and install it in a room with an aquarium, in addition to room stuffiness, the air conditioner will knock down the aquarium heat.
The last option in my opinion the most acceptable.
The sixth and seventh reason
Sometimes the cause of bloating the fish and swimming a belly or side to the top is overfeeding. Again, this reason is largely related to goldfish, because they suffer from gluttony, overeating and begging. Do not enter them on occasion. Feed them exactly as much as it should be. Otherwise, your gluttons will earn inflammation of the gastrointestinal tract or, more simply, they will suffer from constipation!
Another reason for which the fish can lie down for no apparent reason is stress. Well, do not like her neighbors and that's it. Or it often happens that they take young fish, and all the boys and one female grow out of it, and as a result, the boys start a showdown - who is in charge. The weak begin to chase and tyrannize, with the result that they are hammered into a corner, lie on the bottom, well, and die. There is only one way out, to resettle everyone, give them to friends or back to the pet shop.
What else can affect the health of fish:
- Excessive lighting or stress from it;
- decorating the aquarium with chemically dangerous decorations (metal, rubber, plastic);
- overdose of drugs;
Summing up, it is possible to make an unequivocal conclusion that the correct maintenance of fish is a panacea for many aquarium ills. If you are attentive to your aquarium dwellers, they will thank you too.
beauty and longevity!
Video about goldfish

An interesting video story about goldfish

Category: Aquarium Articles / USEFUL TIPS FOR CONTENTING FISHES | Views: 83 016 | Date: 19-02-2014, 14:48 | Comments (7) We also recommend reading:
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The Cockerel Fish: content, compatibility, reproduction, photo-video review



COCK FISH
content, compatibility, reproduction, photo-video review

Amazingly beautiful, beautiful, unpretentious, bold - all these words can be applied to the cockerel aquarium fish. Aquarium cockerels have a bright variable color. Males, of almost all types of cockerels, have chic, veiled fins. And their content and breeding does not represent any difficulty.

That is why cockerels are among the most popular fish among beginners in the aquarium world, as well as among professionals, who contain beautiful breeding forms, exposing them to competitions.

To understand the beauty and temper of these fish, I’ll give below a literary description of the behavior of cockerel fish in nature from I. Sheremetyev’s book: “Along with beautifully colored gouras, a grayish-green fish doesn’t immediately catch the eye. sides, elongated. On the sides there are turbid longitudinal stripes with a greenish sheen.

And the same gray, inconspicuous fish approached the fish. And suddenly, as if something had flared and shone in a small body. The body and splayed fins have become emerald. The fish opens the gill covers and goes to meet the guest. Who is it - the female or rival - the male, the fish can determine only when he sees what the stranger will answer. The female is in front of a gorgeous male, obeying, placing fins. If she is not ready for spawning, she immediately flees. If two males meet, their intentions will be more serious than can be imagined. Mutual posing begins, demonstrating brightness, playing brilliance and fin sizes.

This may take a few minutes, and sometimes an hour. If one fish turns out to be half the size of the second, then it leaves another area. But, if males are the same size, then the first blow will be made sooner or later! Within minutes after the start of the fight, the fins of a weaker male hang down in pieces, the gill covers are broken, the body is covered with bloody wounds. Fishes do not bite, and having opened their mouths so that their teeth stick out ahead, with all their might they drive dozens of needles into the body of an opponent. After some time, the opponent is defeated, ... the male who won the fight, does not allow him to the air and the surface. The loser is killed! "

Beautiful, professional photo of a rooster fish


Let us take a closer look at these amazing representatives of South Asian reservoirs.

Latin name: Betta splendens;

Russian name: Cockerel fish, Siamese cockerel, cockerel, chicken, betta, fighting fish;

Order, suborder, family, subfamily, gender: Perciformes -Perciformes, Anabantoidei, Osphronemidae, Macropodusinae, Betta

Comfortable water temperature: 25-28 ° C.

"Acidity" Ph: It does not matter, but comfortable 6-8;

Stiffness dH: does not matter, but comfortable 5-15 °;

Aggressiveness: cockerels - Betta relatively peaceful fish - they can not be called predators. However, they have a strong intraspecific aggression and territoriality. Keep two males in a small aquarium is not possible. The dominant male will surely kill the weaker. Two or more males can be maintained only in large and wide aquariums, while fights for territory and females still cannot be avoided. In addition, males often show aggression and to a "disliked" female during spawning.

The complexity of the content: easy;

Cockerel fish compatibility: in addition to the previously mentioned intraspecific aggression, the aggression of fish extends to all small, clumsy and voile fish. Therefore, you can keep them, only nimble, active fish that will be similar in size. As a recommendation, it is possible to advise in the neighbors of the males: corridors (speckled catfish), danios, molines, swordtails, other nimble petilles, tetras.

Males are not compatible with cichlids, the family of goldfish, other labyrinth fish are not desirable. Not compatible with snails, they eat small snails, and large ones cut off their whiskers.

In addition, when combining fish you should always take into account the similarity of conditions and water parameters, for more information on the compatibility of aquarium fish, see HERE!

How many live: Cockerel fish are not aquarium long-livers, their age is short - only 3 years. Find out how much other fish live HERE!

The minimum amount of aquarium for cockerel fish

The question of the volume of the aquarium for these fighting fish is a separate topic.

Alas, almost all pet stores sell these luxury fish in 250ml. glasses, while sellers tell people that these are “unique fish”, they say they do not need oxygen, filtration, that they feel great even in a glass !!!

Do not believe the sellers of pet stores, their task is to sell the goods, and what will happen next with the fish, with you and the tears of the child who saw the cockerel floated up with a belly up - DOES NOT INTEREST THEM !!! And yet, you would know how many cockerels do not live by the pet store until the time of purchase !!! You would sincerely feel sorry for these innocent fish !!!

Yes, of course, cockerels are hardy fish, in natural habitat they live in muddy, silted, oxygen-free rice fields. But this does not mean that they can be kept in a small glass with water. Firstly, because the conditions of keeping of any animal should be as close as possible to the natural living conditions. Monkeys must jump in trees, birds fly, and fish swim !!! When the cockerel fish just hangs in a glass, dropping the fins - this is actually a sad sight. Secondly, in the cup, vase and other small vessels there is no biobalance at all. In the rice field, for example, various biochemical processes take place that purify water from various poisons (ammonia, nitrites and nitrates), these processes are absent in a glass with water, the poisons accumulate, the immunity of the fish weakens and it dies. Biological equilibrium in artificial conditions can be achieved only in spacious aquariums, and the more, the better.

So, the minimum amount of aquarium (decorative vase, etc.) for cockerels should be 3 liters. To call such a vessel an aquarium is difficult in all senses, and therefore, if we talk about creating a full-fledged aquarium, the minimum volume for one individual should be 5-10 liters. In such an aquarium, you can put a mini-filter, such an aquarium can be beautifully — naturally, you can plant aquarium plants, set up a bio balance, and taking care of such a reservoir is much easier than washing the “pot” weekly, while delivering great stress to the fish. A good volume for a pair of Bette is considered an aquarium from 20-30l.

About how much you can keep the fish in the X aquarium, see HERE (at the bottom of the article there are links to aquariums of all volumes).

Requirements for the care and maintenance of cockerel fish

From the above, we can conclude that in one, a small aquarium, you can contain only one male cockerel. If the aquarium is large - from 100l. You can try to plant the second male or make transparent partitions in the aquarium, for example from plexiglass, pre-drilled holes in them to circulate the water in the aquarium.

In addition, I advocate the creation of a natural - natural environment in an aquarium. The aquarium can and should be decorated with stones, grottoes, snags, as well as living aquarium plants. Lighting should not be very bright, preferably the presence of filtering. The aquarium itself should not be filled with water to the brim, you need to leave 7-10 cm and be sure to cover the aquarium. All labyrinth fish and cockerels in particular breathe atmospheric air, swallowing it from the surface of the water. In the absence of airspace or access to the surface of the water, the fish will suffocate. A lid is needed to ensure that the air swallowed by cockerels from the surface of the water is not too cold.

An aquarium with cockerels can be equipped with artificial plants, but still, if you have the opportunity, purchase live aquarium plants. With live plants, the aquarium looks more natural, the plants themselves contribute to biological balance, and the males can also use them for spawning and creating a foamy nest. Of unpretentious plants for cockerels can recommend: vallisneria, rogolini, cryptocorynes, other not complex plants.

Feeding and diet of cockerels: they are not whimsical in food, they are happy to eat both dry and live food (Artemia, bloodworm, etc.). The males eat any brand-name dry food, but advanced aquarium brands have developed special ones for them - individual foods that are best suited. Feeding aquarium fish should be correct: balanced, varied. This fundamental rule is the key to successful keeping of any fish, be it guppies or astronotuses. Article "How and how much to feed aquarium fish" talks in detail about this, it outlines the basic principles of the diet and feeding regime of fish.

In this article, we note the most important thing - feeding fish should not be monotonous; both dry and live food should be included in the diet. In addition, you need to take into account the gastronomic preferences of a particular fish and, depending on this, include in its diet ration either with the highest protein content or vice versa with vegetable ingredients.

Popular and popular feed for fish, of course, are dry food. For example, hourly and everywhere can be found on the aquarium shelves of food company "Tetra" - the leader of the Russian market, in fact, the range of feeds of this company is striking. In the "gastronomic arsenal" of Tetra are included as individual feeds for a certain type of fish: for goldfish, for cichlids, for loricarids, guppies, labyrinths, arovan, discus, etc. Also, Tetra has developed specialized foods, for example, for enhancing color, fortified or for feeding fry.Detailed information on all Tetra feeds, you can find on the official website of the company - here.

It should be noted that when buying any dry food, you should pay attention to the date of its production and shelf life, try not to buy food by weight, and also keep the food in a closed state - this will help avoid the development of pathogenic flora in it.

In nature, live: Southeast Asia: Indonesia, Thailand, Cambodia, Malaysia, Vietnam. They live in stagnant, oxygen-free waters - puddles, ditches, rice fields.

Description: Very beautiful fish, its veil tail and fins just fascinate. The color of the fish is different. The most common ink color with a reddish tint. Males are colored much brighter, fins are longer than those of females. The size of the fish is 5-10 cm. The body is laterally compressed, elongated, oval. They have cycloid scales, pointed pectoral fins, upper and tail fin of a rounded shape, the lower fin originates from the head and ends at the base of the tail.

The history of cockerel fish

The first mention of the fish dates from the beginning of the nineteenth century, it was then that the people of Siam paid attention to these small, but lively and aggressive fish. Then the Siamese began to cross wild individuals Betta and got a new kind of fish, calling it "biting fish." A couple of copies of these "pieces" in 1840. King of Siam handed over to Dr. Theodor Cantor, who in 1849 gave them the name Macropodus pugnax. After 60 years, the British ichthyologist Charles Tate Regan renamed them "Betta fish", arguing that the Macropodus pugnax species already exists in nature.

It is known that the cockerel fish appeared in Paris in 1892, in Germany in 1896, and in 1910 appeared in the United States with Frank Locke from San Francisco, California. Through the selection of these fish, he received a "new" fish, calling it Betta Cambodia - one of the first color variations of Betta Splendens. The history of the appearance of Bette in Russia is not truly known. There are several versions. The first is associated with aquarist VM. Desnitsky, who allegedly in 1896. brought from Singapore exotic species of fish and plants, but it is not known for certain whether there were any cockerels among them. The second version says that the aquarist V.S. Melnikov approximately in the same period spread a number of labyrinth fishes in Russia. By the way, a competition for the best fighting fish was established in his honor. And the latest version says that the fighting fish were brought in by the Frenchman Seysel, and all descendants from Russia and Europe went from his fish.

Types of Bette and Petushki selection forms

The first thing I want to say is that the cockerel fish (Betta splendens) is one of the Bett species. Bette species should be distinguished from Betta splendens breeding forms. On the Internet, everywhere breeding forms of a rooster are given for species, which is not correct!

So, the Bette's species include: Betta picta (Betta picta), Betta striped (Betta taeniata Regan), Betta smaragdova (Betta smaragdina Ladiges), Betta untamulata (Betta unimaculata), Betta black, she’s also the dwarf, Cockerel black, she’s black, she’s black, she’s black, she’s black, she’s black, she’s black imbeIIis ladiges), Cockerel (Betta splendes).






And here, the selection forms of the Cockerel (Betta splendes) include:

In size and shape of the fins:

- Vualekhvosti warrior fish or "veil rooster"

- Deltatail fighting fish

- Giant or royal fighting fish

- Crescent-tailed warrior fish

- Round-tailed warrior fishes

- Crescent-tailed warrior fish

- Deltatail fighting fish

- Flagtail fighting fishes

- Poster fighting fish

- Crowntail fighting fish

- Poster fighting fish

- Crosstail fishes

- Two-tailed fighting fish

- other


By color:
Multicolor "multicolor", two-color, one-color.

Photos of some breeding forms

(Betta splendes)









Reproduction and breeding aquarium cockerel fish

It is not difficult to breed these fish - it does not need any special conditions or, for example, a hormonal injection. In fact, under optimal conditions, spawning can occur in the general aquarium.

It is much more difficult to find a good pair of producers than to spawn itself. And if we talk about breeding breeding of cockerels, then the issue with the selection of parents arises squarely.

General information about spawning and breeding cockerels.

The sexual maturity of the cockerel reaches 3-4 months. From this period they can begin to breed.

Sex differences in fish are pronounced - males are larger than females, their fins are much larger and males are, as a rule, brighter than females. In addition, the female ready to spawn can be distinguished by the white "grain", "star" in front of the anal fin - this is the egg-deposit, as well as by the large abdomen.

pictured male and female cockerel

An aquarium for spawning may not be large from 10 liters, the water level in which should be 10-15 cm. A spawning aquarium should not have soil and is equipped only with shelters for the female, for example, with crown, as well as with small bushes of perististoistnye plants, for example, with roetail. You also need to use plants that float on the surface of the water: duckweed, pista, vodokras. These plants are used by the male in the construction of the so-called "foam nest".

The temperature in the spawning tank should be in the range of 26-30 degrees Celsius. Different sources, write different data on the temperature regime for spawning Bette. Taking into account the analysis, I think that 28 degrees is the norm. This temperature is optimal and makes it possible to increase it by a couple of degrees, thereby stimulating spawning.

Spawning and soft water is used for spawning aquariums. Soft water is an incentive to spawn. You can soften the water aquarium chemistry - preparations containing peat, and other methods. In addition, in the spawning aquarium is recommended to throw a leaf of almonds (see Herbal medicine for fish and aquarium).

Before spawning, the producers sit for a couple of weeks, and are abundantly fed with live food. After spawning in the aquarium, the first place the male, which begins to settle. As soon as he begins to build a foam nest, a female with caviar is brought to him !!! The presence of calf in the female can be determined by the rounded abdomen.

If the spawning process does not start or the male does not pay attention to the female, the spawning should be stimulated: by softening the water or replacing the water with fresh water, raising the temperature by 2-3 degrees. If after these manipulations, spawning does not begin, you can try to plant another male in the presence of the male (if you have one).

But, usually the above described problems with breeding cockerels do not arise, in the evening the male already finally builds a nest, and in a day the calf already matures in it.

IMPORTANT!!! Stimulating fish in a spawning aquarium with live food is prohibited. At the time the producers are in spawning, they are not fed at all in order to avoid contamination and unwanted fungi and bacteria.

The process of spawning itself is very interesting. It begins with the fact that the male swims up to the female, hugs her and squeezes 2-5 eggs out of her. Eggs begin to fall to the bottom, the male quickly collects them in his mouth and places them in a foam nest. This "hug and spin" process is repeated several times.

A visual indication that the spawning is over is the male’s circling over the foam nest and the female’s seat in the shelter. As soon as this moment has arrived, the female is removed, since in the eyes of the male she begins to carry a threat to the offspring, which is why he can kill her. The deposited female is abundantly fed. Further, all the care of the clutch and the offspring takes the father! The main thing at this moment is not to disturb him. After one day, the larvae will appear, and after another day the yolk bladder will dissolve in the larvae and they will begin to swim.

You can remove the happy "father" and start feeding the fry with living dust by infusoria, or, for example, as some members of our site do it with melted water from Artemia frost. You can also try dry fish "baby food", for example, Sulfur Micron. Such feeds are either diluted in a bowl and the resulting suspension is poured into the spawning unit, or they take the feed at the tip of a finger and, grinding it in water, feed the young fish. Food in the aquarium should be present constantly. When feeding with live food (ciliates), water does not change, and when feeding with dry food, 80% of water is replaced daily in order to avoid contamination and mortality of the young. To maintain cleanliness in the aquarium, you can place snails ampoule or coils.

In the future, young cockerels are gradually (3-4 days) transferred to larger feeds, starting with Artemia nauplii, etc. After about two weeks, you can begin to try to give "adult" feed.


Many beautiful photos of cockerel fish


Interesting video spawning fish cockerel

The first video is especially recommended - Nerst of cockerels, very beautiful HD shooting !!!

What aquarium fish live without oxygen and air


WHAT FISHES LIVE
NO OXYGEN
At first, I would like to make a reservation right away. All life on earth can not live without oxygen, or rather without air. Therefore aquarium fish that live without oxygen simply do not exist, there are only fish that, with the help of special organs (gill labyrinth or intestinal respiration), can breathe atmospheric air, and not oxygen dissolved in water.

And so, the fish breathe oxygen, which is contained in the water. This happens with the help of a special organ of respiration - the gills, which in turn come in various shapes. As a rule, the gill slits are located on the sides (about 4-5 pairs of gill lobes). The water washing and passing through the gills gives up the oxygen dissolved in it and carries away the carbon dioxide that has been emitted. Next, the "extracted" oxygen is spread throughout the body of the fish.

However, some species of aquarium fish can breathe skin or take in air into the cavity of a floating bladder. In addition, there is the so-called intestinal breathing, which is possessed by aquarium catfish (speckled catfish corridoratus) and loachworms, which can get air into the intestine with the help of the anus. I think that all those who have speckled catfish have seen how they rise from the bottom of the torpedo to the surface of the water and back - this is exactly the same thing - intestinal breathing!

And now we are getting to the question that interests us! Some species of fish have special organs with which oxygen is absorbed. One of these organs is the gill labyrinth, whose owners are classified as LABYRINTH FAMILIES. A labyrinth is a specialized respiratory organ that allows you to absorb oxygen directly from the air. Labyrinth fish take the air by "swallowing" it from the surface of the water. Therefore, such aquarium fish aeration is not needed! However, if access to the surface of the water is closed, such a fish will soon die.

What kind of labyrinth fish can live without oxygen, here they are:

Cock, Betta or Boytsovskaya fish

This is all GURAMI

(blue, marble, kissing, honey)

Lyalius

Macropod

Photos of fish that live without oxygen and air





11.10.2013 added

In Asia, a lot of rice fields and it is there that live fish adapted to breathing atmospheric air. These are, in particular, labyrinths that have a labyrinth labyrinth organ (labyrinth). It consists of winding canals, the walls of which are formed by bone plates covered with films with blood vessels. Contract labyrinth enters the perch-shaped detachment.
The labyrinth organ makes it possible to survive in water, where there is practically no oxygen. Moreover, if labyrinth fish interfere with breathing air, it will die even in oxygen-saturated water. Therefore, keeping such fish in an aquarium, it is necessary to ensure that floating plants do not completely cover the surface of the water. And there is also the African labyrinth fish - Ktenopoma.
PRESENT TO YOUR ATTENTION
a selection of photos of fish that do not need oxygen



















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How to prepare water for an aquarium - a full description.

Why do you need to defend the water?

The main reason for this is harmful impurities that can harm the inhabitants of our aquarium. After settling, solids sometimes appear in the sediment. Initially clear water after a while can grow turbid.

Many aquarists leave the water for substitution to breathe for a few days, and so that all harmful suspensions evaporate for a week. This assumption is partly true, but it cannot guarantee the quality of the prepared water.

Before we do something, we always know why we need to do it. By keeping tap water outside the pipeline, we are trying to improve its performance so that it does not harm our fish. In other words, when defending water, we get rid of most of the malicious components.

Conditionally harmful substances in the water can be divided into:

  • solid (precipitates to the bottom);
  • gaseous (volatilized from water to the environment);
  • liquid (initially dissolved and remaining in water).

The process of settling can affect only solid and gaseous mixtures, and it does not affect liquid substances in any way.

What should be the temperature of the water in the aquarium?

Water temperature for the aquarium plays a crucial role. It depends on the health and ability of fish to breed. For each species of fish, a completely different water temperature is suitable. Conventionally, all the inhabitants of the aquarium can be divided into heat-loving and cold-loving.

By heat-loving include fish living in the water, the temperature of which is not below 18 degrees. Cold fishes are individuals that easily adapt to low temperatures. They can safely live in the aquarium, the temperature in which, will not exceed 14 degrees. The maintenance of cold-loving fish is possible only in large and spacious aquariums.

It is noteworthy that if the heat-loving fish are planted in cold water, then they practically stop swimming. This suggests that significant damage has been done to their health. Preparing water for the aquarium, you should use the tips for beginners, which can be found in the special literature. So, it is possible to choose the optimum temperature for water only after it becomes known exactly which species of fish will live in it.

The thing is that in the literature for each type of fish is given the permissible threshold of the highest and lowest temperatures at which the fish will feel comfortable. In accordance with these parameters, you can choose the future inhabitants of the aquarium so that they all feel comfortable in the same temperature conditions. This will avoid a huge number of problems associated with the maintenance and care of the fish.

How much to defend the water for the aquarium?

To finally get rid of all the harmful substances contained in the water, it must be defended for 1-2 weeks. For the backlog of water is better to use a large bucket or basin. Also, when buying a new aquarium, leave water in it and drain it at least once. At the same time, this way you can check if the aquarium is leaking. Some pet stores sell special products that neutralize chemical compounds in water. But experts recommend not to neglect the settling of water, even using these drugs.

Is there a need for water settling?

In order for the tap water to be normalized for replacement in an aquarium, it is necessary to remove from it all the harmful components - solid, gaseous and liquid.

Today, upholding is very rarely relevant. Solid components in the water supply system have isolated cases, chlorine water derivatives must be removed by air conditioning (chlorine gas is also removed), and liquid ones - only by special air conditioning. Polluted water settles for several hours, and with strong aeration much faster.

From all of the above, it is clear that it is best to use special additives for water. Settling water does not completely remove harmful substances, and in some cases it may even be harmful (a dusty film appears, stuffiness, etc.).

From personal experience:

  • I collect the necessary amount of water for the substitution;
  • add air conditioning according to the instructions;
  • perform aeration for 15 minutes;
  • I bring the temperature of fresh water (with air conditioning) into accord with the aquarium one;
  • I fill, and that's it.

The advantages of this method of water preparation: all harmful substances are removed, no need to wait until the water settles, the pots do not harm the interior of the room.

How to prepare the water?

Freshly tap water is not suitable for animal settlement. Reptiles, fish, amphibians and snails can adapt to it, but on condition that it infuses for several days.

Fresh, domestic water from the tap will destroy animals, because chlorine compounds are toxic to the sensitive organism of small creatures. On certain days, tap water contains different amounts of volatile substances, experts recommend turning on a shower and checking the steam and the presence of chlorine to check. If the smell is harsh, water should not be collected on this day.

Regardless of the season, weather and air temperature, domestic water will be different. Be observant if you want to settle the animals in clean water from impurities. Infused tap water is recommended for many pets and plants, it has an acceptable level of acidity: pH 7.0.

It forms an active reaction, creating an alkaline and acidic aqueous medium. The reaction is determined using litmus paper, which is sold in pet stores. Infusing water should not be in plastic containers; it is better to use glass jars with the lid open. The main thing is that in the prepared water, while it insists, do not get dust and insects.

You can use baking soda to raise the pH to the required level. Peat is recommended to lower the pH. Sometimes before the launch of a new aquarium in the water put samples of trees, reducing the acidity of water.The aquarium can be filled not only with tap water, but also distilled water, which is sold in pharmacies or in auto shops.

It is filled with small aquariums, but with an experienced razvodchiki warned that such water is poor in the mineral components necessary for animals. Rarely use a liquid from another aquarium, in which there is a stable biological equilibrium for normal life.

How to prepare water with permissible hardness?

Reduce stiffness by filtering and infusing. Sometimes, infused water (time - 2 days) from the tap add distilled, thawed or rain water. Plants such as roach and elodiea, reduce stiffness. There is another way - freezing. The collected water is frozen, and then thawed, defended and poured into the tank.

Increases the rigidity of the aquarium water by adding brine, pieces of chalk or limestone, coral chips to it. Coral crumb is recommended to boil (2 hours) to soften and prevent parasites. Only after all the procedures it is lowered into the tank.

It is better to run the fish in a day or two, until the water has acquired the necessary parameters. The temperature of the water in which the purchased fish, animals and plants lived should be identical to the aquarium. Again, use a thermometer, litmus paper to test. Do not neglect the recommendations that the life of pets was healthy and safe, because when kept in poor-quality aquatic environment, they may suffer.

What does water temperature affect?

Aquarium water that has a certain temperature can stimulate spawning. This applies to elevated water temperatures. However, this is not always useful for fish. So, the fish that spawn, you should not constantly keep in such conditions. Otherwise, to get offspring from them in the future will be simply impossible. Thus, when harvesting water for an aquarium, it is better to ensure that it is one degree below the norm.

Gaseous constituents of water

This type of substance evaporates through the surface of the water. Here one can consider the quantitative and qualitative compositions of dissolved gases in water. Gaseous substances in natural water enter into chemical reactions with other dissolved elements, due to diffusion they constantly circulate through the water mirror and are harmless and harmless to fish.

The method of water disinfection for your area can be found in the local water utility, this information will not be superfluous. At new water treatment plants, ozone and ultraviolet cleaning is applied, and such water can be added without fear (it is pointless to defend against oxygen and photons).

The outdated chlorine cleaning method is gradually becoming a thing of the past, but is still in use. Chlorine and its derivatives are poisons. They allow the destruction of both harmful bacteria and beneficial ones, as well as depending on the concentration of large animals and even humans.

Method of elimination of gaseous chlorine from water

Unpleasant smell of chlorine coming from freshly poured water, everyone knows. Water, being in a cup, ceases to smell after a while, and this means that chlorine molecules have evaporated.

If the fish are placed in newly recruited chlorinated water, they will die from body burns and gill petals.

Having made some observations on settling, it can be seen that chlorine evaporates quite quickly. It is not necessary to stand for water from the tap for more than a day, since the residual chlorine cannot affect the health of the fish.

The important point is the choice of dishes. The greater the area of ​​contact of water with the environment, the faster the gas exchange occurs, and chlorine disappears. From this it follows that when settling water in a large-diameter basin, it will become suitable for an aquarium much faster than using a plastic bottle.

It is impossible to cover the used dishes with a lid and even more so to twist the bottle, since there will be no place for volatilization of gas impurities, and the water which was chlorinated will remain so.

Ozone and its effect on fish

With ozone, things are somewhat different. It does not have a pronounced smell, although it carries freshness. Under natural conditions, we feel it during a thunderstorm, during the operation of air conditioners (ozonizing) and laser printers. Before water is supplied to the drinking pipeline, the process of its ozonization takes place, the ozone molecules are unstable and quickly pass into a stable compound - oxygen. Well, oxygen is not dangerous to fish.

What is pH and hardness?

pH is a pH indicator of the acidic environment. A pH of 7 is considered neutral because it is more favorable for most aquarium dwellers. In the case when it is less than 7, the water is alkaline. In order to easily determine the pH of water, it is necessary to purchase litmus papers with a color table, or specialized aquarium tests.

The second parameter of water is hardness. It is divided into temporary and permanent. Water hardness may also affect aquarium inhabitants.
In order to avoid unpleasant consequences, aquarium water should also be checked for permanent and temporary rigidity. It is measured in degrees and is calculated by adding the temporal and constant rigidity.

In the case when spawning of a certain type of fish is necessary, for example, such as neons, in which caviar can survive only in very soft water, water with low hardness content is used. However, for most avkarium fish species, water with a hardness content of less than 5 is not suitable for life and breeding. At the same time, too high water hardness, such as 25 degrees and above, is also destructive for most aquarium species. Of course, there are exceptions.

The norm, it is considered to be hardness from 5 to 25 degrees, which is favorable for the vast majority of different types of aquarium fish.

Aquarists who do not want to bother themselves with various dimensions can simply pick up certain types of fish that feel great in ordinary tap water.

INVENTORY REQUIRED FOR THE AQUARIUM.

AERATION IN THE AQUARIUM AND EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT IT.

AQUAIUM SPRAYER AND EVERYTHING THAT YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT IT.

POMP FOR AQUARIUM AND EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT IT.

How many live aquarium fish?

Each aquarist wonders how many aquarium fish live. Everyone needs to know this. If you are not sure that you want to keep the aquarium for a long time, get fish with a short lifespan. For experienced breeders, the number of years is important to count the spawning that the fish will have time to implement.

Several things can affect the lifespan of aquarium dwellers:

  • The size;
  • Water temperature;
  • Overfeeding;
  • Undernourishment;
  • Conditions of detention;
  • Neighborhood.

Size of fish

The main criterion is the size of the fish. By this indicator, you can judge how long you can admire your pet in the aquarium. The smallest inhabitants have the lowest border, whose dimensions do not exceed 5 centimeters. For example, neon, guppy, swordman. They live from one to five years.

Record small sizes were found in South American small fish - zinolebias. The length of her life depended on the rainy season, as soon as a drought occurred - zinolebias was dying. The only thing that saved the fish from extinction - the timely throwing of caviar. During the period of high water, she managed to appear, grow, spawn, and die.

Fish, whose dimensions are defined as medium, can live up to 15 years, and some representatives over 25, for example, piranhas. Therefore, starting such pets, be prepared for a long neighborhood.

Interesting fact, males live significantly longer than females. Sometimes, the difference reaches almost two years. Breeds are known where the female dies after the birth of fry. Of course, no one is immune from the unsuccessful throwing of caviar or a number of diseases, but most often this is observed in sword bearers and gupeshek.

Aquarium water temperature

The temperature of the water in the aquarium affects the lifetime. Cold-blooded animals can not control the temperature of their body on their own, so water sets the rhythm for most processes in the body. The body temperature of the fish is equal to degrees of water. Thus, the higher the score, the more intense the metabolic processes in the fish's body, and, therefore, life expectancy is reduced. Sometimes this figure reaches several years.

It is proved that if you rarely change the aquarium water, the concentration of harmful substances in the water will be above the norm, which would entail a reduction in the life of the inhabitants. Use distilled water whose chlorine content is close to the permissible value. Bad water can lead to dysfunction of the respiratory organs and diseases of the digestive organs.

Diet

On how much live aquarium fish, affects feed. It's about overfeeding and underfeeding. Fish obesity is a fairly common problem. Most often this happens in a family with young children who are interested to look at the inhabitants of the aquarium who eat the food. Don't underestimate underfeeding. Due to the lack of nutrient and vitamin elements, they do not have enough energy for a normal existence. If in doubt about the right amount of feed, smell the water. If you are overfeeding fish, the water will have a specific smell. Ideally, it should not emanate any flavor.

Overfeeding occurs if:

  • Water has a rotten smell;
  • Rapidly cloudy;
  • The film is formed;
  • Algae have slippery patina.

In order to avoid the death of your favorite fish and increase the number of years of cohabitation, it is necessary to observe the measure in feeding, then the life expectancy will correspond to the figure indicated in reliable sources. The feed should be enough for the fish to eat it within a few minutes after serving the food.

Proper selection of neighbors

The number of years lived can vary according to the nature and type of neighbors. When you create a dream aquarium, it is not enough to know the aesthetic criteria and dimensions, it is necessary to evaluate your preferred habitat zone and character. If fish can get used to the hardness of water, then it is unlikely to endure the unacceptable habits of the neighbors.

The combination of fish size is one of the fundamental rules of an aquarist. Big fish are able to eat small fish or fry, regardless of taste preferences. Before you start the new inhabitants - carefully examine the compatibility.

Overpopulation adversely affects the life expectancy of aquarium fish. The negative effects of overpopulation:

  • Lack of feed;
  • High competition;
  • Lack of oxygen;
  • Frequent illness;
  • Aggressive behavior;
  • Fight for leadership.

All this can lead to the death of fish. It is important to observe the number of liters for each individual. Otherwise, the life of the fish can be reduced. Be wary of cocky breeds, they are capable of killing an opponent in the fight for leadership.

How much does it cost to start an aquarium and fish?

Iris

I will give you examples based on my own experience. I have three aquariums.
The first - 20 liters, domestic (450 rubles), five males (100 males, females - 60 rubles each), petrigopleht (80 rubles), plants - lyudvigiya 2 branches (50 rubles each), lemongrass (50 rubles), cryptocoryne (20 rubles), soil - 2 sachets (total 60 rubles), filter "Aquatel" from 20 to 60 liters (350 rubles), siphon (40 rubles), decorative sash (100 rubles), background (20 rubles) . TOTAL: 1610 rubles, if everything correctly counted.
The second aquarium is 75 liters, domestic (lid, light, background is all included) - 3200 rubles, 5 bags of soil (150 rubles), a tower (180 rubles), an echinodorus plant (300 rubles), a limnophila 2 branches (40 rubles), arrowhead (bought 1 bush 15 rubles, it expanded and filled the entire surface of the ground), a house for pelvicahromis (150 rubles), fish- 2 pelfikromis (100 rubles each), neons (for a flock of 11 pieces - 550 rubles), 6 danios -rerio (for a flock of 180 rubles), pterigoplicht (80 rubles), there is also Velifer mollies, but they are native, "own production"; filter 450 rubles, large siphon (60 rubles). TOTAL: 5555 rubles.
The third aquarium is 150 liters, Jebo 12,000 rubles (lid, lights included), large cave (1200 rubles), medium cave (600 rubles), 10 packs of soil (300 rubles), Aquatel filter (550 rubles); artificial plants in the assortment (about 400 rubles), fish - 2 pterich (160), labo (60), 2 shark balls (200), 2 golden comets (120), 10 black molly, but only 4 of them were purchased (100) , 7 malabar danios (210), lineatus (60), three pangassia (150), five clown fights (600). TOTAL: 16650 rubles.
If nothing is forgotten, then that's it.

Lena Konopatova

With what and what kind of fish? THIS You Zimushka marketing analysis should be done running around the shops, because to the aquarium there is still a lot of personal attributes and the compatibility of the fish should be known, and then they will eat each other.

Novoe

Obtain a license from the Ministry of Fisheries, permission to redevelop and install an aquarium in the State Architecture Committee and get your health, just do not forget to register them and make all the necessary vaccinations each.

Nobody cheetah

1) A large aquarium is easier to maintain than a small one (the larger the aquarium, the easier the medium will self-cool).
2) The sand in the aquarium should be ignited and backfilled with a slope from the back wall to the front. The height of the sand layer is 8-9 cm. Before installation, the aquarium should be deinfected, preferably with a weak solution of soda and then rinsed well. Water for him to defend at least 3 days. Putting the aquarium on a flat surface WILL be CAREFULLY exhausted (if at least a grain of sand gets under the bottom of the aquarium, it will work as a glass cutter).
3) Stones if they are not artificial, too, need to be ignited.
4) Plants are better to plant closer to the back wall. For water purification use Kladofora and Rogolisnik.
5) After such charging, the aquarium should be kept for about 3 weeks, so that the habitat can mature.
6) It is best to fish in layers. Upstairs, the labyrinth fish Cockerel, Macrapod (they are very tenacious and unpretentious), Gurami, Lyalius.
7) In the middle, I would advise you to the Lanterns or Minor, although for beginners I like the Ternets more. You can and other fish that you list.
8) At the bottom of the catfish Ancisturus if the aquarium is a large Terakatum, Bag-Sack.
If you have any questions, please contact the pet store prodovtsam they usually understand this.
An average aquarium (100-120 liters) with equipment and internal environment will cost you 11-13 thousand rubles.
And this is my aquarium.

Comte de valle

couple tysch - aquarium with lighting (there are options).
A couple of thousand - Auto heater plus a good internal filter, gravel soil
thousand - fish (10-15 pieces - no longer needed), five hundred - plants.
There will be change, you can drink.

Li Ka

From 0 to UE to y ... e!
You can find it for free with everything that seems to be appropriate - through ads, acquaintances, etc.
You can buy - prices vary greatly in the number of zeros at the end.
For 100l - for a beginner - money down the drain! (Well, if you got a gift)
Start --- read about aquarism all you can find. What can not be found, also read!
Then decide again - and you need it?
If you still decide - start with a small (from 10-do30l) and with cheap fish (like paradox, they are tenacious).
If after six months or a year, the aquarium still does not resemble a marsh, the fish are still healthy, and you did not fill up the Mayl project with questions about the problems with the aquarium, and most importantly, there is a desire to increase the living space to fish of 100 or more liters - start up .
And the first one will be as a quarantine or baby.
P. with. I started with 3l cans - problems with aqua were in sovdepovskoe time :) I still have, and not 3l.

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