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Aquarium decoration: photos, video examples, styles and options


REGISTRATION AQUARIUM

Making an aquarium is a worthy and fertile topic for conversation. This is not surprising, because this is the primary question asked by people who have just bought an aquarium.
Unfortunately, on the Internet, this question, surprisingly, is poorly lit, briefly or fragmentary. We hope this article will reveal all aspects and nuances of the design of the aquarium and will help you create your aquarium kingdom.

In connection with the volume of this issue, let's divide the article into two sections:
1. MATERIALS REQUIRED FOR REGISTRATION OF THE AQUARIUM: soil, stones, grottoes, snags, background, artificial and live aquarium plants, aquarium lighting, shells, castles, ships.
2. MAIN DIRECTIONS, TYPES AND EXAMPLES OF AQUARIUM DECORATION.

Materials required for decoration of the aquarium

And so, as you know, in order for fish to appear in your house, you need a vessel and water. However, aquarism is not just a banal maintenance of fish, it is the creation of a closed ecosystem, an imitation of the natural conditions of hydrobionts. It is trite, but aquarian art begins with fish. Before you think about the design of the aquarium, first of all you need to decide on your desires and those fish that will swim in your pond. And this is very important! Each individual fish needs its own housing conditions, its own water parameters, and other conditions. And just under them you need to build an "aquarium house", it is from this that you have to make a start. For example, if you decide to start African cichlids and at the same time want to see a garden of living aquarium plants in your aquarium ... You initially doom yourself to an actually impossible task. The natural habitat of most African cichlids is the rocky shores of the r. Nyasa and r. Tanganiki, there are no plants, no algae - this is the “stone desert”. If the cichlids in the aquarium put the plants, they will pull them up and destroy.
Based on the foregoing, we advise first of all, decide on the fish that will live in your aquarium, study their characteristics and habits, read and learn the conditions of their maintenance. And so after embarking and thinking about the design of the aquarium.
REGISTRATION OF AQUARIUM GROUND The soil is one of the most important elements of the aquarium, it is his mood. It is very important to approach the issue of his choice with particular attention, because, in addition to the decorative functions, the soil plays the role of: a substrate for plants, for spawning and fish life. It is important to choose the desired fraction of soil, it is important to choose the required volume of soil, and only then the color of the soil. On our site there is a good article about the selection and selection of the soil, we suggest to read - HERE.
Speaking about the decorative properties of the soil, it is recommended to choose the soil of darker tones, so that the bright and light colors of the aquarium bottom do not overshadow the charm and beauty of the “main heroes of the day” - fish. REGISTRATION OF THE AQUARIUM BY STONES AND GROUTES. An important technical nuance when designing an aquarium with stones, grottoes, caves, etc. is the use of non-toxic, non-toxic materials. If stones, snags are selected and made independently, you need to do everything according to the rules and make sure that they do not emit harmful substances into the water. Certainly the decorations should not be made of limestone, rubber and metal, no paints and enamels !!!
Speaking about the aesthetic part of the pond, you should always remember that stones, grottoes, snags take a "living space" in the aquarium - living space. The number of such decor is calculated based on the volume of the aquarium and the needs of the fish themselves. In addition, it should be borne in mind that large decorative elements are placed on the edges of the aquarium or into the background. Do not put a huge castle in the middle !!! This is equivalent to having people put a refrigerator in the middle of the kitchen, and not into a corner. Aquarium is an amphitheater of life!
REGISTRATION AQUARIUM FONOM. The background of the aquarium for the aquarium dwellers themselves is not so important. In fact, the fish can live without it. The background is more important for a person, it can be said - these are “aquarium curtains”, which play a more aesthetic role than a technical one.
For information on what are aquarium backgrounds, how to make and attach them, see HERE.
REGISTRATION OF THE AQUARIUM OF LIVING AND ARTIFICIAL PLANTS.
Continuing to use the metaphors, we can say that if the background of the aquarium is “curtains”, then the plants are “indoor flowers on the windowsill”. From what they will be, how many they will be, depends on what your aquarium "window" will look like. We recommend to see a wonderful article on this topic - HERE.
LIGHT REGISTRATION AQUARIUM

The power and spectrum of light is important for aquarium plants - this is their source of life. Speaking about the design of the aquarium, the color of light is important. To date, there is a huge variety of colors of aquarium lamps. Choose to taste! Moreover, there are various bottom aquarium lights in the form of volcanoes, lanterns and LED aerators. Here they are.


REGISTRATION OF THE AQUARIUM BY OTHER DECOR. Aquariums can be decorated with shells, locks, ships, divers, skulls, etc. In this case, it is not necessary to buy all this in the pet store at a crazy price. Using such decorations you need to adhere to only two rules: non-toxicity and safety. Shells should not be sharp, and figures of divers made of rubber. See also article Seashells in the aquarium.
MAIN DIRECTIONS, TYPES AND EXAMPLES OF AQUARIUM DECORATION
The classic design options for an aquarium for fish are:
Biotope - such an aquarium is made under a certain water landscape of a lake or stream.
Dutch - Aquarium, the main place in which allotted to plants. This aquarium is popularly called "herbalist". The most famous Dutch aquariums creates a mega aquarist Takashi Amano, here are his works:
Geographical - such an aquarium is designed for a specific region, it contains fish from this region only.
In the vastness of our country, you can most often meet "household aquarium" - where the above principles are not respected. In such aquariums, you can often find castles, amphoras, the same divers, skulls, etc., etc., etc. In addition, there is a whole industry children's aquariums. Here is an example:

There are other directions in the design of the aquarium.
As they say, so many people have so many opinions.
Next, let's see the design options for the aquarium.
Pseudo sea aquariums Such aquariums are formed and imitate marine aquariums - the seabed. The prefix "pseudo," says that in such a reservoir does not contain sea fish. Only an entourage is created!
As a rule, in such an aquarium, fish of a bright color are chosen, which cichlids often possess, for example, spruce, demanosi, parrots, etc. The aquarium itself is formed by corals, artificial polyps and sea shells.


Dutch aquarium "light option" Aquarium close to the natural habitats of fish. It contains live aquarium plants, snags, stones, but "in a lightweight form." Such aquariums do not require special knowledge of plant life from an aquarist. Elementary care for them is the key to success and achievement of goals.



True Dutch aquarium - herbalist
These are densely planted aquariums. Fully imitating all the beauty of freshwater bodies. To create such an aquarium, you need knowledge of plants, you need to study the issue of feeding aquarium plants and applying the CO2 system for an aquarium.



Household, children's, themed aquarium Such aquariums are made out under a certain idea. As a rule, it is a fiction and fantasy of man.



Futuristic Aquariums or Glo Aquariums Relatively recently, the fashion for creating Glo-reservoirs has entered the aquarist. Where everything glows with neon and plays with phosphorus. Even exist fluorescent live fish. Such aquariums look beautiful in the evening and at night. More about Glo-fish is here.



Saltwater aquariums These are aquariums that contain sea, saltwater fish. The aquarium is permeated with marine themes. The disadvantage of such reservoirs is the price and the huge cost of maintenance.



Cichlid Species aquarium in which only fish of the cichl family are kept.
Watch TSIKHLIDNIK - cichlids in the aquarium


Also there are industrial and show aquariums

We wish you success in the design and creation of your own individual aquarium kingdom, below is an additional photo that clearly demonstrates the diversity and flight of the aquarium thought in the lit question.









Video on the design of the aquarium

Making your own aquarium: ground, snags, accents

Aquariums are different, but most people keep them in order to decorate their home or office with a corner of nature. And then the main task of the aquarium is to be beautiful. It is good if you have the opportunity to turn to professional aqua-designers to design your home or office pond. And if not? Then you have to act independently, but how, we will tell you now.

What style to make out?

Of course, in a fashion now aquascaping - registration of an aquarium in the form of a beautiful natural (and not necessarily underwater) landscape. However, it is unlikely that everyone needs to pursue fashion. If you want, you can create an urban picture or a psychedelic landscape with a bright pink bottom, ultraviolet lighting and phosphorescent fish in your pond.

In general, when you design an aquarium, everyone acts to the best of their imagination. I met aquariums decorated according to literary works: especially the one that was made in the style of “Roadside Picnic” was sunk into the soul.

Therefore, the most correct decision is when the aquarium reflects the character and interests of its owner.

Building a picture

When we decided on the style, we begin to think over the composition.

The accent, energy center of exposure in an aquarium can be a snag, a hummock, a stone or a group of stones, a bush, as well as a castle or a grotto. It is recommended to have this epicenter not in the middle of the aquarium, but slightly to the right or to the left, observing the proportions of the golden section.

Then, starting from it, the rest of the composition is built. It looks beautiful when the underwater landscape is structured according to some general principle:

  • hollow between two hills or trees, snags,
  • elevation in the middle of the plain or a sloping slope from one wall of the aquarium to the other.

And it does not matter what exactly these conventional lines are formed with - vegetation, stones, snags or artificial decorative elements, following the general rules for constructing a composition will make any landscape more attractive.

Of course, you need to decide what will be the main thing in your aquarium: the landscape or fish population, and act depending on it, creating a picture and selecting fish that cannot damage it, or equipping a comfortable and beautiful house for fish.

Basic design principles:

  • decor elements should hide the aquarium equipment (filter, heater, wires);
  • if the aquarium is fishy, ​​decorations should not distract attention from its inhabitants, therefore, for example, large stone structures are relevant only in aquariums with large fish;
  • Ornaments should not be dangerous for aquatic organisms in form, chemical composition and other characteristics.

Now, having thought over the composition, we begin to select the filling of our reservoir.

Priming

Soil is important primarily for plants, it provides support for their roots and the supply of nutrients to species with root type of food.

But for aquarium animals, soil parameters also matter:

  • it is important that the fish cannot choke on them,
  • for digging fish it is necessary that the particles do not have sharp edges,
  • for some animals, such as shrimp, its color is important.

Well and, of course, when selecting the soil, it is necessary to take into account its chemical properties, for example, that some soils can make the water more rigid, which not all types of plants and fish will like.

Most often used large river sand or gravel fraction of 2-4 mm. It is important that the elements have the same size, otherwise over time, smaller fractions will end up at the bottom, where they will loll, silt and become a substrate for anaerobic putrefactive bacteria.

For herbal aquariums, professional ADA type nutrient grounds are the best choice, but you can make your own nutrient based on sand, clay and garden soil, depending on what types of plants you plan to plant in the aquarium.

Stones

Granite, quartz, gneiss, sandstone and many other stones are used in aquariums. Before being placed in the tank, they are cleaned with a brush and then scalded with boiling water. Usually a group of stones looks more natural than one large cobblestone.

Large pieces of sandstone with a multitude of small caves are most popular in shrimps, and flat stones are often used in tsikhlides, which are laid on each other, building grottoes and caves.

It is better to tie the stones together or glue them with silicone, since large cichlids may knock them over.

If the aquarium is designed more for beauty, you can arrange it in Japanese Iwagumi style by creating a garden of an odd number of stones of different sizes standing or lying on the bottom.

Snags

Snags can be found independently, for example, along the banks of rivers or in swamps (black alder, willow, elm are suitable, but the wood must be dead).

Choose the right size and shape, then prepare, boiling in salt solution, and then soaking in water for several days or weeks, until the water stops painting (for more information on preparing a snag for an aquarium, read our article.)

You can buy ready-made snag (for example, mangrove). Her preparation is much easier and takes less time: she cooks for a couple of hours and is soaked for one or two days.

Snags in the aquarium must be of the same type.

They are often decorated with plants: mosses, ferns, anubias. To add plants to them, it is usually enough to tie them with a fishing line or to fix them with a plastic clip for several weeks.

The function of snags in an aquarium is not only aesthetic. They zone space and create shelters for fish, and in addition, they emit humic substances into the water, acidifying and softening it and beneficially affecting the well-being of many species of fish and shrimp.

In an aquarium with aggressive cichlids, they often do this: they take several long branched snags and place them at the back wall, crossing and intertwining with each other. Thus it turns out a whole system of grottoes, caves, crevices, aisles in which several fish can hide.

Other types of jewelry and shelters

As such, clay shards can be used, ceramic tubes of different diameters (large catfish and loach lovers, small ones like shrimps), halves of coconut shells. On the coconut you can grow moss or fern.

All sorts of bubble-letting crocodiles and divers in aquarium design are considered signs of bad taste, but, in my opinion, their presence is justified if the aquarium is designed for a child.

The back wall of the aquarium

Of course, the simplest thing here is to stick a dark-colored film with a low-key natural pattern on the back wall outside and plant tall plants in the background.

If the aquarium without plants, then often resort to using relief backgrounds, mounted inside the aquarium. This can be a ready-made background of polystyrene foam or fiberglass.

It has a drawback: if it is glued loosely and its edge somewhere moves away, fish and shrimps can get under it, and it can be difficult to get them out of there. Once I tried for several hours to pull or lure a freshwater stingray teenager from under such a background. As a result, it was necessary to destroy, and then re-restore almost the entire aquarium decor and equipment.

Instead of a ready-made embossed background, you can stick yourself on the back wall with silicone stones of various shapes or ceramic tiles on the back wall. It will be beautiful, but it is a time consuming procedure, and such a background will heavily weight the aquarium and reduce its internal space.

Aquarium decoration with plants

This is a separate huge topic, but the basic principles are quite simple:

  • low plants are planted in the foreground
  • at the back and side walls - tall, long stem,
  • sprawling bushes are usually placed on the middle plan on the sides.

The sequence of actions in the design of the aquarium

The sequence is as follows:

  1. Preparation of stones and snags.
  2. Set the background.
  3. Equipment installation.
  4. Placement of stones, snags and grottoes in the tank.
  5. Sleeping ground.
  6. Planting plants. Sometimes this is done with a small amount of water (according to the rules of launching, plants are planted several days after pouring water, but if there are many of them and there are small and ground cover plants among them, it is very difficult to plant them in an aquarium full of water).
  7. Pouring water.

These are the basic principles of the design of the aquarium. Конечно, самостоятельно сделать свой аквариум шедевром аквадизайна непросто, но ведь это не главное. Важно, чтобы он нравился вам, и вы получали удовольствие, глядя на него.

Аквариум: оформление своими руками. Стили и варианты оформления аквариума

Nowadays, a beautiful and fashionable design of an aquarium for a person engaged in keeping and breeding fish is not just entertainment, but a matter of prestige and simply aesthetic pleasure from contemplating the results of his labors.

Psychologists say that an aquarium with fish in an apartment can calm nerves and normalize a person’s mental state. To do this, simply organize a recreation area with an aquarium and watch the fish for at least 30-60 minutes. in a day.

Aquarium: do-it-yourself design

The most fascinating and laborious task for all of us in the process of installing and filling the aquarium tank is its correct and beautiful design in the same style with the design of the room.

To date, there are a huge number of accessories that can be placed in the aquarium. Making your own hands will allow you to recreate as precisely as possible the exact setting that you want to see there. Just do not forget that the main inhabitants of the aquarium are fish. And they need the maximum amount of free space in order to be able to swim freely.

The main components that allow for the design of the aquarium (200 liters and all others) are:

  • stones;
  • natural and artificial algae;
  • pebbles;
  • various wooden elements;
  • artificial decorative elements such as locks, chests, etc.

Examples

Let's look at the following steps and examples of aquarium design:

  • laying the bottom with primer;
  • decoration of the aquarium with stones and grottoes;
  • Aquarium decoration with a properly selected background;
  • the use of various plant species;
  • correct selection of the backlight;
  • decoration of the aquarium with the elements of decor.

Each of them has its own specific rules, which will be described below.

Ustilya bottom of the ground

Soil for the aquarium bottom is one of the main and essential attributes. Before you buy it in a specialized store, decide what type of aquarium you would like to have, since this natural material must be purchased according to a specific goal. Yes, yes, you heard right: for each goal is taken a certain type of soil.

So, if small fishes live in your tank, then it is best to buy a small type of soil, and coarse-grained or mixed will suit large inhabitants of the reservoir. A similar approach is acceptable even when you decide to build a Dutch-style aquarium in your house, that is, a reservoir dominated by plants, not fish.

In addition, when choosing a coating for the bottom, you must take into account the individual habits of your chosen exotic aquarium fish. If you have purchased goldfish or certain species of catfish, then you need to remember that they love to rummage in the ground. Therefore, they can not buy shallow soil, otherwise there will always be fog in the aquarium. To avoid this, it is necessary to purchase a bottom covering of such size that they could not dig it.

It is best to buy a monochromatic coating for the aquarium. It is best to choose the bottom base of a dark color, because it is beneficial to allocate the inhabitants of your house for fish.

Before you put the purchased soil in the aquarium, it must be thoroughly rinsed or, which is ideal, pour boiling water over it.

Stones and grottoes

How is the design of the aquarium stones and grottoes? These parts selected for decoration should be made only from natural, natural materials. They should not contain harmful or poisonous impurities that, if released into the water, can lead to the death of the inhabitants of the aquarium.

In the case of self-collecting elements of the decor in the aquarium, the decoration with your own hands is made only after pre-processing of all previously collected material in order to disinfect and check for the absence of all elements harmful to health of the reservoir.

Processing of stones and snags

Stones can be processed in the same way as the soil for the bottom of the aquarium, and pre-processing of the kryag is somewhat more complicated. To do this, place the selected wooden decor in a container with water (so that the liquid completely covers it) and pour salt there until it stops dissolving, then remove the treated log and rinse it with clean water and place it in the purchased tank for fish.

Do not forget that in an aquarium in no case should there be elements of limestone, rubber, various types of metals, as well as elements having a coating of paint or enamel.

Also, do not overfill the aquarium with decor, especially with larger-sized elements, such as stones, grottoes, etc., since this leads to a decrease in the useful internal space needed by underwater inhabitants for their vital movement.

Do not forget that the decor elements of large sizes should be placed at the corners of the tank or to the background, so as not to spoil the whole look.

Aquarium decoration with the right background

The so-called background is an important element of the decor of the aquarium. Since the background coverage sets the mood for all your offspring, it is not necessary to choose dark and dark tones that bear the spirit of despondency and sadness.

There are several options for the background for aquariums:

  • You can simply paint the back wall of the tank in the color you chose beforehand. This path has its pros and cons. Indisputable advantage can be called the originality and 100 percent originality of your child. The list of minuses includes certain difficulties with changing the already existing background (removing it with a solvent).
  • The background is in the form of a colored plastic film, having an unlimited number of different variation solutions, among which everyone can choose the most suitable one for him. In addition, the price of such a film will be practically imperceptible for your pocket, and it can also be installed or removed very quickly.
  • Panel and diorama in the aquarium. Making your own hands in this case is an ideal option, since these parts can not only be purchased at the store, but also be made by yourself using the following materials at hand: small pebbles, snags and branches, foam plastic and mounting foam. But we must not forget about the environmental cleanliness and natural origin of the selected materials, so as not to harm the fish. Such decorative elements will always be unique.

Film sticking rules

Such a film can be attached to both the outer and the inner side of the back wall. If you want to get more saturated colors, then, of course, it is better to stick it from the inside.

Before applying the film, you must make sure that the surface of the inner wall of the back of the aquarium is completely dry (to avoid the appearance of pimples). Treat the purchased film around the perimeter with a special transparent silicone sealant, previously purchased at the pet store. In no case do not use a conventional sealant, since the consequences of its use may be irreparable for aquatic inhabitants.

If you decide to stick the film inside the aquarium, then you should not feel sorry for the silicone: it is better to miss the film very carefully, especially its upper edge, to avoid the possibility of peeling it off. After fixing, wait until the material is completely dry, and only then fill the tank with water.

Registration of an aquarium by different types of plants: live or artificial

If you have acquired an aquarium and are engaged in its design, then do not forget to purchase and plant various types of algae. You do not need to saturate the tank with them, but you can’t do without them, because they saturate the water with oxygen and are food for some species of fish.

They also appear in the form of a "manger" for newly born fish, because only by hiding in algae can they survive, because eating many of their fry is common among many species of fish. Those fish species that spawn, hide it on leaves of algae or under them.

Planting and care of live aquarium plants

Before acquiring aquarium plants, it is best to consult with the seller at the pet store, he will help you find the perfect plants, and also tell you how to plant them in the aquarium so that they look for a long time.

In any case, there are varieties of aquatic vegetation that do not require planting in the ground. For all other soil thickness should not exceed 3-5 cm, and the seeds are recommended to choose medium or large sizes. It is this size of soil that will speed up the process of full rooting of plants. A freshly planted plant can be lightly pressed with pebbles or other decorative elements. In this case, its roots should be in the straightened state.

It is also recommended to feed the plants monthly using special tablets, which are placed in the soil adjacent to the plant. They must be used no more than two per month.

Correctly select the backlight

If you decide to make a purchased aquarium with your own hands, then do not forget about the correct lighting, because not only the appearance of the tank depends on it, but also the health of its inhabitants, since the power of the light flux and its spectrum are vital for plants.

To date, there is a huge variety of highlights, both external and fully adapted to work underwater, so that everyone can find the option that will appeal to him. To help the novice aquarist, many different manuals have been published, which help to correctly and quickly carry out the design of the aquarium. The photos below will help make this process as simple and easy as possible.

Aquarium decoration with decorative elements

When designing an aquarium with the help of decorative elements, it is necessary to remember that they must be environmentally friendly and have no harmful impurities, and in no case can they be supersaturated with an aquarium.

You can use both purchased and self-made decor.

Styles

Today there are various styles of aquariums. All of them are very richly represented in the pictures and photos posted in our article and in various books on the aquarium business. Also in Russia they can be seen in dolphinariums. Among them are the following options for the design of an aquarium:

  • Biotope, representing the landscape of a single reservoir.
  • Dutch design style, which focuses on the richness of the underwater flora, and not on the fish.
  • Geographic - an aquarium with representatives of the animal and plant world of a single region.
  • Psevdomorskogo aquarium stylized under the seabed without plants, and its inhabitants are small fish bright colors. Since such a tank is decorated with large-scale decor, such as stones, corals, artificial polyps, shells, and almost no vegetation, it is excellent for cichlids. After all, this design aquarium for cichlids is ideal.
  • Children's aquariums are designed in accordance with the favorite theme of the child (games, cartoons, stories of books, etc.).
  • Marine aquarium with inhabitants living in salt water.
  • Futuristic aquariums saturated with luminous elements, including special hybrid fluorescent fish.
  • Household and thematic containers created on the basis of human fantasy.

The design of the angular aquarium is made according to the same principles as all the others. A variety of types and styles of work of experts in the aquarium business, known throughout the world, will help you in this difficult matter. We hope that the recommendations given in this article will help you to get a clear idea about the future interior design of the fish house. In addition, the photos offered by us will help you to correctly and beautifully design the aquarium. They will serve as an excellent visual aid.

Basics of aquarium design

Aquascape is a long-studied art form that allows you to create an underwater landscape. Inspiration for many works comes from underwater locations, as well as natural landscapes such as mountains, jungles, deserts, waterfalls and many others. Before you create a beautiful design aquarium with your own hands, you will need a functional component of the aquarium environment. Some aquatic plants require saturated light and nutrients.

The low cost of operating an aquascap allows you to use low amounts of carbon dioxide, less fertilizer and lighting. Diffuse or dim lighting can be just as stunning as the plants create beautiful highlights. For aquarium design usually use plants, stones and wooden snags.

Types of aquascapes

The "Iwagumi" style is a stone design of an aquarium that came from Japan. All decorative elements are thin and pointed, but supported by smooth elements. Large stones with an uneven surface are placed in the central part of the tank. To create an analogy with the natural environment, stones have slopes that can be hit by water.

Admire the iwagumi style aquarium.

Aquascapes "willows" are often used for low plants that are planted to the fore. The emphasis is on rocks, not plants. Dark and cool stones are in demand in this kind of design.

Dutch style is an aquascape of many plant species. In the traditional Dutch style, there is a minimal emphasis on stones and snags. The choice of plants, their color and location are key factors for creating style. Dutch aquascapes visually look like dense thickets of underwater rivers. Here you can often see bright red, orange, green plants that are planted in large quantities in the front, center and background. This type of design involves the use of the most unusual and whimsical forms of plants. To prepare an aquascape will take a lot of time, skill and patience.

Natural style - recreates natural landscapes. Plants, snags and stones are located in such a way that they resemble a lake or river from their natural environment. This style is characterized by chaotic forms, simplicity. It uses only natural materials. The location of plants, snags and stones is key. Fish is just an addition to beautiful design. Modeling the natural environment requires careful planning. Plants for this aquascap are required low, and are attached to bark, stones or planted in the ground. The fish for him are chosen such that they can revive the landscape - barbs, swordtails, tetras, neons, scalars (schooling species).


Symmetry

To make the design of the aquarium with your own hands, you need to know some rules for the placement of parts.

  1. Avoid symmetry - it gives an aquascape too structured and tidy. There are no symmetrical forms in the natural environment, and you must imitate the environment. There are even algal growths and some dirt on natural rocks and vegetation. Asymmetric shapes are the key to creating beautiful designs.
  2. The focus should not be focused in the middle of the aquarium, but slightly away from its center. Using the golden section (a coefficient that has long been accepted as mathematically aesthetic), the optimal coordination center should be about 1: 1.62 the length of the aquarium.


  3. Calculation of the "Golden Section": measure the length of the aquarium using a centimeter. Divide the length by 100. Multiply your answer by 61.8 and write it down. Now take measurements of one side of the aquarium and make a small mark. It should be the focal point of your aquascape.
  4. What should be in the center? The center should be the largest, brightest, or most impressive aquascape point. This could be the highest rock, a bright red plant, a large flooded snag, or a waterfall at the back of the aquarium.

The form

  1. Avoid straight lines and fenced plants. High seedlings in the background that extend are not recommended. Natural species often have very few straight lines and little continuity. The best forms are those that look like a smooth curve, or chaotic.
  2. Natural curves and concavities will be a plus - plants can be trimmed to create height along the edges, and lower them in the center plane, making a visual drop. This will help create more open space for swimming fish.
  3. Beveled shapes can be quite attractive - triangular shapes and islets can look natural and aesthetic. Slanted dark plants look like a riverbed, which gradually becomes deep.

See how you can arrange an aquarium for 100 liters.

Foreground, mid-plan and background (background)

It is important to distinguish each aquarium background. Each background should contain both high and low bushes of plants. The average plan should consist of snags, rocks and plants of medium size. У переднего плана должны быть красивые широколистные саженцы, такие как анубиас, криптокорина, стрелолист, апоногетон, и другие.

Можно сделать синтез - камни и коряги можно высадить и на передний план, а растения можно посадить на любом плане, чтобы улучшить внешний вид акваскейпа. Если вы можете себе позволить аквариум с открытым верхом, тогда у вас больше возможностей использовать камни и коряги, которые будут выпирать из водной глади.

Растения лучше высаживать так: начиная от переднего плана и заканчивая задним планом, визуально "спускаясь" вниз. Long-stemmed species weigh less and are easily entangled in low plants in the foreground. To install rocks, stones and their attachment to each other, use silicone aquarium glue. It is more secure, and allows mosses, ferns and all wires to remain in place. Also mosses, ferns and creeping plants should be attached to a hard surface - wood or stone. Do this with aquarium glue or sparks.

Aquarium: do-it-yourself design (photo)

Today it is easy to embody the design decisions of the internal and external design of turnkey aquariums. Modern studios offer the most unusual variations in the artistic design of hidden depths. However, if you wish, you can create your own design project, making a truly unique aquarium. The design, realized with your own hands, will allow to realize any idea, making the created underwater world a basic element of the interior of the room.

Aqua design

It is best to keep aquarium fish for people who see it as a pleasant activity and rest, and not a hassle or problem. After all, it is not enough just to buy an aquarium and run inhabitants into it. It is also important to be able to care for him so that he would not just like him, but deliver aesthetic pleasure.

The underwater world at home or in the office is a kind of living picture, it is a way to emphasize the individuality of the interior. Aqua design is an integral part of aquarism. The special uniqueness of it guarantees its own vision of the design of the underwater world. Thinking over their artistic project, real aquarists approach it with all their hearts. Their main goal is to create an original landscape and a comfortable environment for the life of aquatic inhabitants. Such artistic design allows the most harmonious pour into the interior of the room aquarium. The design, made by hand, allows you to embody the most incredible design options for compositions, from which it is simply impossible to tear your eyes off. It can be fabulously beautiful sea, rocky scenes, mountain valleys, mangrove forests.

By virtue of your hectic imagination, you can create the most incredible decoration projects. However, they all require a clear concept - from their development to implementation. First of all, you need to decide on the style of the aquarium and its features. It is also important to take into account the size of the aquarium and its shape, so that the chosen style would be appropriate for a particular area. The selection of the internal filling of the aquarium and its appearance should harmoniously blend into the environment.

Fish are also of great importance. The design is developed for them, with the obligatory consideration of their habitat. Compositions are depending on the type of fish. Many of them need shelters, without which they can die. Some of them like to hide in a sandy bottom, some prefer small thickets. The role of shelters is perfectly performed by snags and grottoes. These decorations with special lighting give a special charm and mystery to the underwater world. They allow you to create unique compositions and a real paradise for exotic inhabitants, a new habitat for which has become your aquarium. Design, made by hand, makes it possible to implement any creative ideas, there would be a desire.

Types of aquariums

The scenery for the subject environment of the underwater world serves as a safe decoration for the aquarium. But the main component of the internal design is its thriving biosystem.

According to their purpose, aquariums are divided into decorative and special (spawning, selection, nursery, quarantine and others). The most popular of them are species and biotope.

Species aquarium will not only decorate the interior of the house, but also give a unique opportunity to observe a certain type of fish or their closely related species. Its inhabitants have a significant impact on the design of the aquarium. It’s not difficult at all to do it yourself, but before embodying the idea, you should seriously familiarize yourself with the habits of selected fish in their natural habitat.

Biotope aquariums reproduce the imitation of a natural biotope with a characteristic type of fish, plants, and certain parameters of their habitat.

Styles

For aquarium design does not stand out any single qualification. Typically, the design of the project is carried out in the well-established stylistic directions. The main ones are:

  • decorative;
  • natural;
  • Dutch;
  • Japanese;
  • pseudo-sea;
  • plot;
  • vanguard;
  • collection;
  • seawater aquarium.

For newbies

For novice naturalists, the best option for decorating an aquarium will be the collector style. This is an ideal option, allowing you to "get a hand". Everything is allowed here. You can mix plants, use their artificial imitations, choose any aquarium. Design, embodied in your own hands, allows you to create interesting compositions from plants of different textures and decorative elements. It is possible to experiment with different storylines. The choice of plants should depend on the subject. To begin with, it is recommended to give preference to unpretentious and hardy plants.

Natural style

In 1980, Takashi Amano, a famous Japanese aqua-designer, presented a new direction in the design of aquariums - the natural style. The philosophy of these aquarium paintings lies in the understanding and perception of nature, recreated according to the principle of "Wabi - Sabi" ("modest beauty").

This style draws inspiration from mountain and forest landscapes, water streams. With the help of various decorative elements (koryag, stones) that define the focal points of decoration, small architectural forms are created. Their asymmetrical placement, based on the rule of the "golden section", makes it possible to set the direction of the natural (natural) sense of perception of the entire composition.

The schooling fish will effectively emphasize the recreated landscapes, will bring diversity to the underwater world and will literally catch up to pay attention to the aquarium. Do-it-yourself design (100 liters volume, at least) of a miniature version in a natural style is better to start with the use of no more than 5 types of plants.

Underwater garden

One of the most beautiful areas in the creation of the underwater world is the Dutch style. It is fascinating to make a similar design aquarium with your own hands. 250 liters for the creation of a submarine garden - quite the best option.

The basis of this style is aquarium plants of various texture, shape, size and color. Paths of greenery, occupying almost the entire main area of ​​the bottom, allows you to create an amazing effect of depth. Architectural forms in the form of decorative korsag and stones are present in limited quantities. Well maintained underwater garden is visually perfect and interesting.

Seawater aquarium

Many people today are keen on breeding marine fish. Preparing a biological environment for them is more difficult, especially with the use of living corals that are quite demanding on water parameters. But experienced naturalists are quite able to create such an aquarium design with their own hands. 200 liters is the optimal average volume for enjoying the contemplation of the underwater sea. It should not be overpopulated with living beings, since a limited life support system operates in such a reservoir.

Design a marine aquarium is necessary taking into account its type, which not least depends on the inhabitants. These can be predators (sharks, rays, moray eels), non-predatory fish (zebrasomes, angelfish and other species) or corals and invertebrate sea anemones. Predatory fish are considered the most unpretentious; invertebrates are more difficult to care for and may die from minor deviations in chemical indicators of water.

For the livelihood of such aquariums is to purchase expensive equipment. It will need to be decoded, it is worth considering when developing the design of the aquarium with your own hands. The photo shows how you can successfully hide all the wires, hoses and tubes, making out the background with picturesque coral reefs, rocks and shelters for fish in the form of mysterious grottoes and caves.

Aquascape

Having acquired practical skills and relying on experience gained over time, you can try to master such a special kind of art, a peculiar analogue of landscape design for parks and gardens, like aquascape.

This is a do-it-yourself landscape design that can be created by more experienced aquarists. The underwater world is organized by them using certain aquascape rules. This direction in aqua design involves a composition that is thought out to the smallest detail. To create an underwater landscape, decorative elements, plants and inhabitants are selected that can not only coexist peacefully, but also express the basic idea contained in the landscape.

Aquarium background

A beautiful background for the design of the back wall of the aquarium is easily created with the help of special films on which images of the underwater world are applied. They can have just a rich blue color, creating the effect of depth and contrast. But it is much more interesting to include the background, the size and volume of the tank, the decorations used and incorporate everything into your own designed aquarium: 250 liters, there is a stone background, spectacular snags, stones, moss, various plants - all these elements by the way.

It is worth noting that the background of the aquarium often gives the whole composition (especially volumetric) a unique charm and naturalness of the aquatic environment. It is easy to create it with your own hands, using, for example, polystyrene foam broken by different pieces, which is glued to the back wall of the aquarium and painted with special paint with intermittent strokes. It turns out an excellent imitation of stone background. It can be made in a similar way, using pieces of bark from kryag.

The composition can be created from dead coral, stones from the sea reef. Small invertebrates, polyps and other inhabitants will find shelter in the marine aquarium.

The design of the aquarium, designed and executed by hand, allows for a considerable number of excellent ideas for plot aquariums using exotic plants, shells and sea stones. An incredible number of them can be realized by creating their own "rock gardens". And then with pleasure to watch the flickering on their background of bright fish with an unusual color.

The main thing - do not overdo it with decorative elements, plants and inhabitants of the aquarium. Everything should be harmoniously combined, to give pleasure to its creator and not to harm the fish.

Aquarium - an element of the interior

Thanks to the unusual beauty, modern aquariums can become a real gem of any interior. The variety of styles and forms is simply amazing. Aquariums can be suspended, floor, built-in. Aquariums-dioramas create a stunning effect in the room, their form seems to contribute to immersion in the exciting water world. The handwritten version improves well-being and improves mood. Today, even a dry aquarium is not uncommon. The design, realized with your own hands, allows you to give yourself an unusual creative concept of the sea landscape. Many solutions can be created due to the incredible flight of creativity. It is definitely simple and incredibly interesting!

A snag for an aquarium do it yourself photo video description.

Snags for aquarium

Snag on the bottom of the aquarium, of course, make the interior decoration of the aquarium more attractive. As a rule, it is a dead, water-saturated part of the tree. Therefore, unlike living shoots, the snag immediately sinks into the water and does not need to be anchored.

It will remain lying in one place until its owner or its underwater inhabitants are moved. Each snag has a unique shape, so it can be used to create the most bizarre structures. What tree to make a snag for an aquarium? If the reader is going to use snags from trees that grow near his house, then we can recommend species with dense wood (oak, maple, ash, elm, hazel). Pine, spruce or larch have loose wood, so they will quickly rot and form a lot of bacterial plaque in the aquarium.

In addition, they contain resins, the effect of which on hydrobionts is unknown. It is worth considering that walnut, red oak, cherry and other trees with dark wood emit a lot of tannins. They can be useful to aquarists who contain South American cichlids. Depending on the origin, there are several types of koryag. All of them are formed from the branches and trunks of various tree species as a result of rotting under water or wind erosion and abrasive sanding on land. Snags, which belong to the species of trees of European forests, are usually characterized by simplicity of shape and small size.

In some cases, they have good buoyancy, and therefore need to be drowned. The first method of sinking is tying weights. Over time, up to a week for small branches and a few months for large drifts, they lose their buoyancy. A faster method involves drilling multiple holes, which are then filled with silicone or metal objects (bolts). The roots of the African savannah. Also a very common type of snag.

These roots drown themselves. They do not look like ordinary snags, because gnarled on one side and smooth on the other. Malaysian wood is harvested in the mangrove forests of southeast Asia. It looks like ordinary snags, but it sinks on its own and has elongated, dark branches. Mangrove snags strongly dye the water dark and reduce the pH of the medium. This does not necessarily harm the inhabitants of the aquarium, because some tetras and dwarf cichlids, by contrast, prefer sour-colored water.

Reddish and brownish wood driftwood from Desmodium unifoliatum. Straight from Vietnam for 10 bucks per kilogram (ill. Alibaba.com) Mangrove snags from Malaysia (ill. Penangseagarden.com) Dried Malaysian lianas (ill. Alibaba.com) Snags made from Mopane wood are often sold under the name African Wood. Do not confuse Mopane wood with savanna roots. It looks like an ordinary snag, but it sinks on its own.

The dried trunk and branches of Mopane have ribbed appearance, cavities and dark color. The age of African wood is usually over 100 years old, so it is expensive. Although less so than Malaysian, African wood lowers the pH of the water.

If you need to avoid this, snag boil. Snags Mopane "Do not boil, make people laugh!" (WhiteDevil; Ill. Aquariumadvice.com/forums) That's better. Mopane Coarse Aquarium (Ill. David Raynham, Flickr) Wood with overgrown is not a special type of wood. It is formed naturally, in the course of fouling of snags with aquatic plants, or aquarists specifically create it by implanting Anubiasa bushes or Javanese moss.

The coconut shell also belongs to wood, although hardly anyone has enough imagination to call it a snag. However, in this article it is worth mentioning the shell. It is usually used in the creation of single submarine cave or substrate for spawning. The parameters of water shell practically does not affect.

Pluses snags in the aquarium

  • Complete look and unique design of the aquarium.
  • Additional places for recreation, games, hide your pets, and in some cases and for spawning.
  • Soften water by increasing its acidity naturally. Most fish, especially freshwater, live in nature in open reservoirs with trees growing along the shores. The branches and leaves fall into the water and lie there for years and decades, creating the optimal composition of water and the conditions for the life of its inhabitants.
  • Prevention of diseases of the digestive tract in some species of fish (for example, catfish) due to their eating of wood fibers.
  • The possibility of increasing the ornamental aquatic plants and moss.
  • Creating an environment unfavorable to harmful bacteria and microorganisms (treated wood emits small amounts of tannins and tannins, which disinfect water, but are safe for fish) and lightly dye the water in pleasant brownish-golden hues (if you don’t want it, you can choose a tree species, which will leave the water clear).

    SEWN COATING WATER, WHAT TO DO?

    Technically, after boiling, a snag can be added to an aquarium, but as you already know, snags release tannins into the water. It is very desirable, after you boil it, put it in water for a couple of days. During this time, you will see if it paints water. If it is slightly colored water, then this is normal and acceptable, but there are varieties that bring the water color to literally brown. In this case, the recipe is one - soak the snag, preferably in running water or in water that is often replaced. How long it takes depends on the type of wood and its size, but this should be done until the water becomes light enough. Возможно ускорить процесс и снова ее прокипятить.

    ПОМУТНЕЛА ВОДА И ВОНЯЕТ СЕРОВОДОРОДОМ, ПОСЛЕ ДОБАВЛЕНИЯ КОРЯГИ?

    Это гниет коряга в аквариуме. Скорее всего вы использовали недосушенную корягу. Ее нужно вынуть и хорошо просушить, если небольшая то можно сделать это в духовке.

    ЕСЛИ КОРЯГА НЕ ВЛАЗИТ?

    Тогда ее либо распиливают на несколько частей, а после скрепляют обратно, либо варят опуская разные части в кипяток попеременно. Если же ваша коряга очень большая, то ее можно обдать кипятком и поместить в аквариум, затопив с помощью груза. But, remember that in this case, you risk quite strongly, as bacterial outbreaks can be, so any filth that affects your fish.

    HOW TO ATTACH THE MOSS TO THE TRAY?

    Very often moss is attached to a log in an aquarium, for example, Javanese or other plants on snags in an aquarium. It looks amazingly beautiful. But many do not know how to properly attach the moss. There are several options: a cotton thread, after a while it will rot, but the moss has time to attach to the bark with the help of rhizoids. If you need a more reliable option, you can use a fishing line, it is generally forever. Some moss just ... stick with superglue. However, this method is much more convenient, but there is a risk of poisoning the water with the toxins contained in the glue.

    DIRT IN AQUARIUM DECAY?

    This is a natural process, even the snags of light tones darken with time. You can peel off the top layer, but this will only help for a while. Simply leave it as it is.

    DROPPED IN AQUARIUM GREEN OR GREEN?

    Most likely the case in algae, which covered its surface. They cover the glass in the aquarium and the stones look like green dots on the glass. You can get rid of them simply by reducing the length of daylight and the power of lighting. Excessive light in the aquarium is the cause. Well, just clean the snag by removing the top layer from it.

    What kinds of fish need snag?

    Of course, any fish will be more fun, and the owner is more interesting to watch pets if the snag becomes part of the interior of the aquarium. But there are certain types of fish that snag just needed.

    Thus, various types of catfish use scurf formed on the surface of the snag as an additional feed, and the thinnest upper layers of wood as a source of dietary fiber. These are such fish as Panak, Orinok catfish, catfish Ancistrus, cuckoo catfish.

    Many fish that in natural conditions prefer to spawn in the roots of fallen trees in the water, old snags, gladly do the same in artificial environment. This is a large group of fish of the perch family (gourami, glass perch).

    Long and narrow fish of the order of moray eels and eels will also be grateful to you for a labyrinth of roots or small spreading snags and for safe shelter.

    It is necessary to observe special care when choosing the size of koryag if you keep very active or aggressive fish (some types of cichlids, for example), because such pets prefer rocky, stone bodies of water and can harm themselves by injuring themselves with vigorous movement and fights on protruding edges.

    But here it is enough to follow a simple rule: there should be a little kryag, they should not occupy a large space and have sharp protrusions. It is better if it is one large uncomplicated and smooth piece of a large branch, without processes.

Choosing and correctly preparing snag: stages

Careful choice

No sane person will put in his first stick in the aquarium. This will instantly destroy the eco-balance and destroy all living things. The choice of snags is one of the key stages, if not the most important, and a number of conditions must be taken into account.

Snag can be bought at the pet store. It is the easiest, but sometimes demanding considerable financial expenses. The most commonly sold snags of overseas wood species: mangrove, mopani.

However, such snags strongly shade the water, sometimes giving it the color of rich tea leaves. When transporting, they catch a lot of harm to the fish, so even the purchased snag will need to be treated and soaked to eliminate these problems.

And if you are not a wood connoisseur, be careful: unscrupulous vendors may offer you the usual local sludge under the guise of an overseas tree, especially in bird markets.

Therefore, it is safer and cheaper to make such a useful decor by yourself.

For an aquarium, the branches and the roots of hardwood trees, willow, apple, and pear, which have lain for a long time in water, are ideal. It is categorically not recommended to use coniferous species - spruce, pine, juniper.

A copy you like you need to carefully examine: too rotten and rotten snags, which simply crumble from the slightest pressure, do not fit.

The wood must be hard, preferably already with beetle and worm grooves - they destroy biological components that can harm the fish. Live branches can not be used.

With a suitable snag, you need to immediately remove all rotted parts, moss, algae and bark.

Preparation and processing

At home, the snag must be thoroughly cleaned, remove the remnants of the bark, so that it remains completely naked. No matter how beautiful the bark looks by itself, in the aquarium it will surely start to rot, and the fish may get hurt on the pop-up pieces.

Then wash the snag under running water and place for some time (30-60 minutes) in a strong brine. Salt strewed until it ceases to dissolve. In this solution, you will then cook it.

Boil snags on low heat, in an enamel or stainless cookware (aluminum is not suitable) for two or three days. The minimum is considered a period of 12 hours, but in this case more is better than less.

Duration also depends on the thickness and size of the snags: some simply do not fit in the pan, so they have to be turned every few hours for steaming all areas, a priori, you need to cook longer. During cooking, add water as needed, as it will evaporate.

For additional disinfection you can add a little potassium permanganate, it will also give the wood a noble dark color.

After boiling the snag is left under running water (from under the tap) with water or placed in a basin or bath with frequent water changes for another week. This is done to remove any salt residues that the snag managed to absorb during cooking. In addition, as a snag is saturated with liquid and in most cases begins to sink.

Before diving into the aquarium, be sure to check if it comes to the surface. After that the snag is thoroughly dried and again checked for buoyancy. Some instances still retain the stubborn ability to float. In this case, the snag will have to be fixed at the bottom of the aquarium.

Also pay attention to the degree of staining of water: a light brownish tint is likely to go away in a few days or water changes in the aquarium. Strongly painting snag needs to be soaked again until it stops toning the water.

Preventing decay

Even after careful processing, there is a risk that rotten or living areas remain inside the snags, which can begin to rot in the aquarium. Therefore, experienced aquarists use 2 ways.

1. Roasting The snag is slightly burned with a blowtorch, either over the entire surface or only from suspicious ends, then placed in water for 2–3 days, periodically wiping the charred areas with a napkin and removing soot.

2. Paraffin. Some for absolute safety pour the entire area of ​​the snag with a thin layer of melted paraffin. This is undoubtedly the most reliable way to prevent any undesirable components from escaping from the tree into the aquarium water.

Anchorage in the aquarium

The easiest thing is if the snag has ceased to float. Then you can just put it on the bottom and secure with soil. But often the snag does not want to lie down and rises to the surface of the water. This can be dangerous for residents of the aquarium.

There are several options to tame the recalcitrant:

  • Fishing line You can attach a fishing line to the coarse, and either pin the other end in the ground with a stone, or attach a load to it.
  • Sucker. The option is easy, but unreliable. Over time, any sucker will fall off the surface. Some go to the extreme and stick the sucker or the snag itself directly with glue to the glass: doing so is extremely dangerous for the health of the fish - the chemicals remain chemicals.
  • Stainless Steel Screws. The method is reliable, especially if you make for the snag the base of the treated piece of wood, plexiglass, stone and secure with soil. But here it is important how the quality of the nails or screws corresponds to its name and whether they will rust. If you are not sure, you can fill the attachment points with special silicone that is safe for fish.
Whichever way you choose, remember that you should never fix a snag on the walls of an aquarium - it will swell over time and can squeeze or break glass.

Ornamental plants and moss

If you wish, you can add different types of moss and plants to the root snag, which will give your homely reservoir the look of a real corner of wildlife.

Designer inspiration to you, and always remember the safety of your choice for pet aquarium!

CO2 FOR THE AQUARIUM WITH OWN HANDS PHOTO VIDEO DESCRIPTION.

REAR BACKGROUND FOR AQUARIUM PHOTO VIDEO DETAILED DESCRIPTION.

COVER FOR THE AQUARIUM OWN HANDS PHOTO VIDEO.

Design aquarium 200 liters with a description and photo

Increasingly, most people around the world are beginning to get involved in aquarism. And this is not at all surprising, because thanks to this enthusiasm and the implementation of a few simple actions, you can create in your room a real corner of wildlife that will bring joy, and give a great mood to both its owner and his guests. And in today's article we will look at how to design an artificial reservoir for 200l.

Choosing an aquarium for 200 liters

As a rule, before you think about creating a magnificent and intriguing underwater world in your room, you must first decide on its shape. After all, it depends on her how well it will be harmoniously combined with the interior of the room. So, an aquarium of 200 liters can be:

  1. Angular. Perfect for office space. Due to its structure, these vessels allow you to build in them an incredible underwater harbor or coral lagoon, a photo of which is presented below.
  2. Wall mounted. Making such a method for quite a long time caused concern even among experienced aquarists. But today, this option is increasingly beginning to occur in both office and home spaces.
  3. Panoramic. Such vessels are distinguished by concave glass, which makes it possible to examine the events inside the aquarium in the smallest details.
  4. Rectangular. The standard version, which is perfect for keeping all kinds of fish, for example, such as discus, barbs, angelfish, gourami. In addition, this vessel allows you to embody any design of the underwater landscape. And this is not to mention its high quality and fairly affordable cost.

Also it is necessary to take into account that an artificial reservoir of 200 liters has an impressive weight. Therefore, it is advisable to purchase a special stand for it.

We select the design for the aquarium

First of all, I would like to note that the design of the aquarium should take into account not only the interior of the room, but also certain features of its inhabitants. So, discus prefer the presence of pebbles as a soil and the presence of small koryag. Others need dense vegetation and live rock. Therefore, we consider several ways to decorate a vessel designed for 200l.

Psevdomore design

This design is perfect for aquarists who want to recreate a piece of the sea landscape in their premises. In addition, the style of psevdomore is ideal for calm and peaceful fish. So what do you need to do it? First of all, a pleasant and calm background is selected in the aquarium of 200 liters. For this purpose, can come as a photo with corals, and drawings which depict water. After that, the turn comes to the choice of lighting.

For this purpose you can apply:

  • neon lamp;
  • cold light;
  • standard light bulb.

Important! Many inhabitants of an aquarium, for example, discus or guar, react differently to the intensity of light.

It is recommended to decorate the bottom with stones. Tuff stones are best for this style. You also can not forget about the indispensable attribute of such design as corals. Of course, you can use the design in the style of pseudo-sea and without stones, as shown in the photo, but then you can forget about creating such beautiful decorative designs as coral slides.

As for the fish, the predominantly peaceful and calm species are settled, as mentioned above. For example, discus, panaki, cichlids.

But before settling 200 liters of its future inhabitants into an aquarium, it is necessary to take into account the ratio equal to 7 liters per individual. This is necessary in order to avoid territorial overpopulation.

Design of a vessel with artificial vegetation

In most cases, this design, the photo of which can be seen below, is distinguished by non-standard decorative elements that bring brightness to the underwater world of the aquarium. So first of all, the advantages of this style include:

  1. High lifespan of used decorations.
  2. The possibility of keeping different types of fish, which in standard conditions would cause irreparable damage to vegetation.
  3. Ease and simplicity in leaving.

So, first of all we add aquarium gravel. This choice is due to the fact that not only cichlids, but also other fish feel more comfortable in this soil. After that, artificial plants can be added, for example, a snag with imitation of Javanese moss. Next, decorate the back. For this purpose, large plants are perfect, forming the concept of the height of the vessel in the viewer, but without imposing depth of perception. Further, if you wish, you can again add some gravel to the sides of the vessel with the planting of plants of a red tint.

Subject design

This design allows you to maximize your imagination and translate any idea into reality. So, if you wish, you can create a fabulous glade, the gloomy castle of Count Dracula, or even a flooded Atlantis. Various decor options can be seen in the photo below.

So, for this style, you can use ceramics, imitating both various sculptural works, and models of sunken vessels. It is worth emphasizing that such decorative elements will not harm the rest of the inhabitants of the artificial reservoir, but on the contrary will serve as good shelters. For example, discus, in case of danger, will be able to hide their fry in them.

But It is worth noting that before creating such a design it is necessary to determine the size of the decorative elements of vegetation and, of course, the fish.

Biotope design

As a rule, discus, gourami, scalar and other types of fish feel most comfortable in artificial reservoirs with conditions that best fit their natural habitat. That is why decoration in this style is not only real art, but also vital for all inhabitants of the vessel. . But It is worth noting that in order to create such a design, you will have to work hard.

So, first of all, it is necessary to choose for it both vegetation and fish, which will feel comfortable in the reproducible landscape. For example, when planning a vessel in which the discus is located, it is necessary not only to constantly maintain the required temperature, but also not to forget about the presence of a large number of small branches and leaves at the bottom of the aquarium, among which the discus lives in its natural habitat.

Nuances of registration

In order to decorate an artificial reservoir passed as intended, you need to remember some simple design rules. So, it is not recommended to overload the aquarium with decor or to leave too much empty space. In addition, do not forget about the simplicity and ease of subsequent maintenance of the vessel. That is why the ideal option would be the use of collapsible structures. Also, if there are fish in an aquarium that love to dig into the ground, then it is forbidden to use large pebbles as it. The best choice would be to use sand or 1-3 mm. ground.

Javanese moss in the aquarium: content, reproduction, photo-video review


JAVAN MOX

Java moss is an absolutely unpretentious aquarium plant, not demanding to lighting or water parameters. In addition, it can grow outside the ground - on snags, stones and other surfaces, while making the landscape of your indoor pond unique and inimitable.

Growing area: wet dense jungles of Southeast Asia and the island of Java.

Family: Hypnaceous mosses (Hypnaceae).

Appearance: The plant has a soft stem, about 17 cm in length, which is densely covered with small (up to 2 mm) green leaves. The leaves are pointed, toothed, the older ones are darker, the younger ones are light green. At first glance, the plant no longer has any organs, but it is not. Java moss has many rhizoids with which it can attach to any surface, but you can’t see them with the naked eye, they are too small. Can grow in both vertical and horizontal position.

Priming: the plant does not need soil. It grows well on tree snags, stones, plastic tubes, and even a filter (so you need to be vigilant).

Lighting: bright, but perfectly tolerates his complete absence. During the rooting period, the illumination should be intense, the length of the daylight should be at least 8 hours.

Water parameters:

Комфортная температура: 18-30 °C.

"Кислотность" Ph: 6-7,5.

Жесткость dКH: 2-15 °.

Соленость воды: растение спокойно переносит слегка подсоленную воду при необходимости лечения рыб.

При неблагоприятных условиях тускнеет окрас листьев и замедляется рост.

Важным моментом при выращивании яванского мха является чистота воды, хорошая ее фильтрация. Грязная вода для растения - долгая и мучительная смерть. The accumulation of residues of feed, fish waste products and other garbage on moss should not be allowed, otherwise the pores of the plant will be blocked - it will not be able to breathe. Java moss calmly reacts to the change of water.

Accommodation, landing in the aquarium: in the aquarium it performs two functions - utilitarian and decorative. Java moss is an indispensable tool for breeding fish. Due to its urine-like structure, the plant is perfect for spawning many species of fish.

As for the decorative ability of Javanese moss, here the possibilities of its use can be limited only by the imagination and experience of the aquarist. The most common method is moss on stones and snags. To support the moss is fixed with a thin fishing line or cotton thread, which eventually rot. The plant should be laid very carefully, the twig to the twigs in a single layer, and primatyvat very tightly, without gaps. At first, the moss does not look very neat and looks beautiful, but after a month it becomes much more well-groomed.

Javanese moss can also be used to decorate the back wall of an aquarium by placing it behind a fixed large-mesh net made of fine fishing line. In the same way, you can decorate the bottom of the aquarium.

Care and pruning: periodically, Javanese moss should be thinned and cut off the branches on which the algae have settled.

Moss java breeding: by dividing his colony into parts.

Java moss can be cultivated not only in an aquarium, but also in a greenhouse or greenhouse. The surface form of Javanese moss is more decorative than water. It is advisable to dry the plant periodically in order to fight the algae that has arisen on its leaves.

FanFishka.ru thanks
The author of the article is Irina Gorobets,
for the provided material and cooperation!

Design and design of aquarium javanese moss



Next, I would like to add an article and draw your attention to the issue of decorating the aquarium with moss. Let's take a closer look at one of the popular design options for the Wall of Moss aquarium.
I propose to see a very interesting video about decorating an aquarium, where the background is made of moss.

So, in order to make such a wall, you will need
Threads, fishing line
used to secure moss

Knife scissors
for cutting mesh and cutting threads
Suckers
required to attach the mesh to the back of the aquarium
(it is desirable to use large suckers)
Spray bottle It is necessary for spraying moss, while fixing it on the grid, so that it does not dry out.
GridIt is best to use a stainless steel mesh - it is durable, comfortable, but is relatively expensive ($ 30 per square meter). Light option plastic garden mesh with a grain of not more than 8 mm. That and other grid can be bought in construction markets or garden stores.

Getting Started
First you need to take measurements from your favorite jar

Then cut a piece of the grid of the desired width and !!! twice the desired height !!!
Exception dense (thick) stainless steel.

Then fold the net in half and attach the suction cups around the perimeter.



Well, after the most difficult begins.
We take Javanese moss, evenly spread on one part of the grid and begin to gently attach it (thread, fishing line). It took me 3 hours
(grid 42 * 85 cm.)


I draw your attention to the fact that the moss must be decomposed as evenly as possible. In addition, if you have a sufficiently large layer of soil in the aquarium, you need to take this into account and not attach the moss to the bottom of the net.
After attaching the resulting "wall wall" to the back wall of the aquarium and wait 1-2 months until the moss grows !!!
The end result should look like this:

I wish you success!
Finally, I propose to see a photo selection of design and decoration of the aquarium mosses
(photo can be increased LKM)




Tsikhlidnik: design with their own hands

Newbies in the aquarium business often make many mistakes, one of which is the neglect of the compatibility of ornamental fish and aquarium plants. The consequences of this do not take long to wait: the vegetation dies, decaying organic matter negatively affects the health of living creatures, the water becomes cloudy, the interior decor degrades ... aquarium.

Cichlid - what is it?

It is difficult to answer this question with one phrase, since the professional term "cichlid" includes a whole range of techniques and methods for keeping cichlids - a large family of ornamental fish.

It should be immediately clarified that for fans of vegetable aqua design, loving to combine several types of bright representatives of aquatic flora, this solution is unlikely to work.

The term itself is derived from the name of a fairly extensive family of fish that live in the warm river waters of Africa, South and Central Americas. Cichlids, as a rule, have a bad temper, they get along badly with their neighbors in the reservoir and with each other.

In aquarium conditions, they are also aggressive and very sensitive to the state of the environment. Keep these fish is not easy. It is because of this that professional aquarists have introduced the term “cichlid”, which means an aquarium, where the optimal combination of a restless fish team, vegetation, environmental conditions and decorative elements is thoughtfully and competently maintained.

The creation and launch of such a unique aquarium is based on the habits of its inhabitants, as well as on the knowledge and skills of their owner to accurately take into account all the subtleties of the peculiar behavior of decorative predatory fish.

Figuratively speaking, if there is a fish feng shui, then this is exactly the case.

Cichlid can also be called a species aquarium, as it contains, as a rule, fish of one species or one habitat of natural habitat.

Little about cichlids

Science refers them to the order Perciformes (Okunevoobraznye), suborder Okunevidnyh, the family Cichlidae (Tsichlovye). This is a very large group of tropical aquatic vertebrates, which includes about 1900 species.

What makes them so attractive to aquarists? First, the fish are very bright, with the original color. And secondly, their behavior can be very extravagant, which inevitably attracts attention.

The diversity of this type causes significant differences in size, color, behavior, method of reproduction of individuals.

An interesting fact: both scientists and aquarists most often describe these fish depending on their habitat and are divided into cichlids:

  • Central America;
  • South America;
  • Madagascar;
  • Of Africa.

Sometimes in the special literature, South American and Amazonian representatives of the family are considered separately, and African cichlids living in the lakes Nyasa and Tanganyika are distinguished as a special group.

There are commercial species. For example, tilapia sold in fish stores is a typical representative of large cychloids. And such fish as the Oscars, the discus, the scalar have long since become decorative inhabitants of aquariums. A common feature of representatives of this family is a flat, laterally compressed body.


General requirements

First of all, you need to decide which fish will live in the species akvadome. This is very important, especially for the organization of internal zoning.

Cichlid aquarium

There is a general rule: a tsikhlidnik should be big. The fact is that each species of fish must have its own habitat zone, its own nook, where other residents of the water hostel will not swim.

Therefore, the minimum volume of the aquarium should be 120 liters, and it is better if its shape is rectangular, with a length of at least 90 cm. Moreover, this size can is suitable for quieter African cichlids (yulidohromis, striped parrot, chromis-handsome and others).

For their American and especially Amazonian brethren (herothilapias, archocetres, discus, scalars, Sedgik's cichlosomes, and others), an aquarium with a larger volume of at least 200 liters is needed. The length of the artificial reservoir for the maintenance of large individuals can be up to 2 meters. Not every house can be equipped with such a cichlid!

Plants for the cichlid

There is an opinion that a species aquarium is a non-planar water space, because restless fish eat or dig in all vegetation. Yes, that's right, almost all Cichlidae representatives are actively digging the ground.

But, say, floating plants feel good in a society of aggressive living creatures. A reasonable amount of duckweed on the surface of the water will also revive the decor.

In addition, some plants in the tsikhlidnik can be kept in pots. In general, preference should be given to vegetation with hard leaves, strong stem and strong root system.

Registration

The following rule: do not need to clutter up the internal volume. Representatives Cichl need a place for free movement. Consequently, if vegetation is still planted, then it should be placed in small groups and play its role in the zoning of space or be near the back wall.

Elements of the interior decor - artificial caves and grottoes, snags and trimming pipes - do not need to be placed above the average level, and they must be placed as far as possible from each other (as far as the bottom area allows).

The material for creating caves and grottoes can serve as flat stones, large pebbles. Large sinks fit perfectly.

Zoning

What is zoning for? The fact is that each type of cichlid must have its own territory, where individuals will relax, feel like the only masters, form pairs, and even breed. Yes, first there will be real battles between cichlids for the division of spheres of influence, but then each group will find its own nook.

There are many options for creating zones. For example, a territory can be conditionally divided using a bush of vegetation or artificial greenery. A stone hill or a grotto, as well as a wooden snag, can also serve as the boundary of an autonomous territory.

The bottom of the cichlid

Soil to create a workable tsikhlidnik has an important value. On the one hand, the habit of digging bottom soil should not lead to degradation of the decor, but on the other hand, it is advisable not to allow wounds of fish on sharp or too large soil particles.

That is why experts suggest using river sand with a grain size of 2-3 mm and a layer thickness of at least 5 cm.

However, the condition and quality of the soil is largely dependent on the size of the individuals, but experienced aquarists are unanimous - it should be sand.

Cichl Content Conditions

They can be different, depending on the type of cichlid. It is the geographical origin that conditions the maintenance of these capricious fish.

African cichlids

The requirements for the temperature of the aquatic environment are more stringent, as the lake Africans are accustomed to a stable regime, from +25 to +27 degrees and not higher.

Important: for the Tanganyik Tsikhlovykh, even a temporary temperature rise of up to + 30 ° leads to death!

The explanation is simple: increased evaporation of oxygen dissolved in water and, as a result, oxygen starvation. That is why almost all cichlid owners insist on active aeration of aquarium water and its periodic changes - 20% of the total volume once a week is enough.

The filter can be used periodically, especially at times when a lot of organic matter accumulates in the aquarium, the decomposition of which increases oxygen consumption.

It is also necessary to strictly observe the level of rigidity of aqua. 7-7.5 degrees is an optimal indicator, and even a slight deviation from the norm can lead to very unpleasant consequences.

American cichlids

More tolerant to temperature variations. The optimum is in the range from +22 to +27 degrees, and the temporal drops in temperature of the American are quite tolerable. What can not be said about their Amazonian relatives. They are very fond of heat, so + 26 ° with deviations up or down by no more than 1 degree is their optimum.

Almost all American species are calm enough to fluctuate in water hardness, but it is better to maintain a normal average balance of 6-7 degrees.

Water changes are necessary. Some experts advise when starting a tsikhlidnik to change the water more often - once a day up to 30% of the volume. Gradually, you can go to the weekly procedure for updating the water.

Of course, continuous aeration with saturation of the aqueous medium with air, as well as filtration, are needed.

Bright light to all, without exception, tsikhlovym not required. Quite the contrary: it is better when the intensity and intensity of light is slightly reduced. This is especially true during the spawning period of females, on which some dusk has a calming effect.

There are no problems with feeding cichlids. It is only necessary to take into account that some species are vegetarians. Feeding commercial feeds produced for a particular type is all that is needed. Naturally, avoiding overfeeding.

Features of design

They mainly concern the problems of breeding offspring. Making your own tsikhlidnik, it is strongly recommended to take into account this period of life of the fish.

A few examples. Angelfish lay their eggs on the leaves of underwater plants. Therefore, in the case of the South American cichlid, it would be appropriate to plant cryptocorynes or echinodoruses that have hard, large leaves.

The vast majority of African Cichlidae spawn either in the ground or on flat stones. This means that such stones should be placed in their habitat zone.

Thus, when equipping a specialized aquarium, it is necessary to know the features of spawning of one or another type of cichlids and to provide a place for breeding and subsequent growth of offspring.

These tips on creating a tsikhlidnika can be useful for novice aquarists. Of course, the practice of maintaining such unique aquariums allows you to identify other important features, and the design of the internal space depends entirely on the imagination and aesthetic taste of the aqua designer.

It is important to remember that cichlids are rather capricious fish that require special attention!

Aquarium mosses or all about msharnnik: design, types, photo-video review

Aquarium moss, what's the catch?

On the Internet, you can find a large number of beautiful aquariums, in which mosses play a dominant role. This is due to the fact that mosses have excellent decorative properties, they are unpretentious, and their diversity allows the aquarist to embody his most audacious ideas and with the help of mosses to draw beautiful forest landscapes in his underwater kingdom.

In this article we will show an example of the design of an aquarium with mosses. On its basis, we consider the rules and features of the arrangement and design of such an aquarium.

Please look at the photos of the aquarium with mosses, which we have specially prepared for this article.

We hope you enjoy our work. Below we will try to fully tell how it happened.

Arrangement of aquarium with mosses

In this chapter we will talk about the basics of the arrangement of a borer and consider the typical mistakes that beginner aquarists make.

So firstly let's immediately cut off the "wrong questions" that newcomers to search engines ask. Namely: “How to get rid of moss in an aquarium”, “black moss in an aquarium”, “round moss for an aquarium”, “Kladofora moss”, etc. All of the above, has no relation to mosses and is called algae. For more information about algae, see the article: Algae in the aquarium, know the enemy in the face.

Secondly, often on the Internet you can see the information that when setting up an aquarium with mosses, you do not need to use the ground. This is explained by the fact that mosses do not have roots and do not use the substrate as a power source. All nutrients - fertilizers mosses taken directly from the water. Therefore, the presence of soil in the aquarium with mosses is useless. Ostensibly from the soil in the aquarium is formed only suspension and dirt, which mosses do not like very much.

We can not agree with these arguments, for the following reasons.

Both the foundation for the house and the aquarium soil play a crucial role in the life of the aquarium! Novice aquarists very often pay attention only to the decorative properties of the soil and miss its most important function. Aquarian soil is a unique biological filter, powerful and irreplaceable by nothing else.

The fact is that after the launch of the aquarium in the ground colonies of beneficial bacteria settle in, which process waste products (hereinafter - PJ) of aquatic organisms into harmless substances. I also call this process the ammonia cycle - the transition cycle of the PJ. in ammonia and then in its decay products - nitrites, nitrates.

Thus, if there is no soil in the aquarium, then all biological filtration processes will be minimized. Yes, of course, biological filtration can be carried out through the installed filter, but it is worth noting that the lion’s share of the beneficial bacteria nitrifying live in the soil, and not in the filter.

In turn, excessive concentrations of ammonia, nitrite and nitrate cause the growth of algae, which do not like mosses, because mosses simply die from them.

From the above, it can be concluded that the soil in the aquarium with mosses should be present.

Creating an aquarium with mosses, we used the previously launched aquarium complex Tetra AquaArt Discover Line 60L. Подробнее смотрите статью: Запуск аквариума от А до Я.

Все манипуляции в этом аквариуме, мы производили "на живо", т.е. не отсаживая рыбок, улиток, креветок. Собственно мы: убрали часть лишенного грунта, убрали ранее посаженные растения, сменили задний фон, закрепили мхи и установили камни. Тем самым, хочется подчеркнуть, что "перепланировку" аквариума можно спокойно производить без полного перезапуска аквариума. Такой подход позволяет минимизировать ущерб уже устоявшемуся биологическому равновесию. We did not wash the soil and the filter, and at the end of all the manipulations, we poured the "old water" back.

At the same time, during the work, it was not possible to avoid raising a suspension - mechanical turbidity.

And the process itself naturally caused stress in the fish. In order to reduce these negative factors, in the process of work and after, we additionally put an internal filter with a synthetic filling material. And at the end of the work was added Tetra aquasafewhich protects the mucous of fish and has sedative properties.

Filtration in the aquarium with mosses. An important issue in the arrangement of msharnika is high-quality filtering. As previously mentioned, mosses do not tolerate excess organics and mechanical turbidity. The water in the aquarium with mosses should be perfectly clean. At the same time, excessive filtration (purging) also will not contribute to the well-being of mosses.

In this review, as in the previous one, we used external filter Tetra EX 600 Plusthat copes with its task. An important bonus of this filter is the nozzle "flute". Its use in the aquarium with mosses allows you to evenly distribute the flow of water and this is very important !!! Indeed, from a strong current, the moss "disintegrates" and does not grow.

In addition, as previously mentioned, a small internal filter with a padding material was installed, which finally removes the slightest suspension.

Lighting in the aquarium with mosses. Like any representatives of the plant world, mosses love powerful lighting. If the lighting meets the proper characteristics, the mosses look magnificent and have a rich color. At the same time, most aquarium mosses can not be called excessively demanding lighting. And that is why even beginners can handle them. Specific parameters of the power of lighting for each aquarium are individual, the average value at which mosses feel good is ~ 0.5 Watt / liter or ~ 30-40 Lm / liter. Above the aquarium that appears in this review is set to 45 Lm / liter.

At the same time, it should be said that too much light will require more careful attention to the aquarium from the aquarist, since it can cause an algae outbreak.

Fertilizers for mosses. Mosses do not need root feeding, in fact, because they do not have a root system. All micro and macro fertilizers they take from the water.

In our aquarium we used not only mosses, but also stunted and delicate plants were planted: Marsilia, Eleoharis Parvul, Eleoharis Vivipara, Echinodorus Rubra, Cryptocoryne Parva, Blix Japanese, Bucephalandra and Anubians Bonsai. Therefore, in the aquarium applied soil for aquarium plants Tetra Active Substrate and substrate Tetra Complete Substrate.


Liquid fertilizers were used as direct fertilizer for mosses.

Tetra PlantaPro Macro, Tetra PlantaPro Micro.


An important issue in the arrangement msharnika, is the supply of CO2. Perhaps - this is the most important fertilizer that is necessary for any plant. In practice, it is known that many mosses are able to grow and develop without the supply of carbon dioxide. However, the proper concentration of CO2 will be favorably received by mosses. In our aquarium, we deliberately did not supply CO2 (cylinder, mash) and decided to use / test a relatively new drug in the Tetra - fertilizer line Tetra CO2 plus. As a result, we got a good result - Msharnik fully developed. Objectively, of course, Tetra CO2 plus cannot replace the CO2 supply through a cylinder or a mash. Nevertheless, he copes with the function declared by the manufacturer. The good news is that TetraCO2 plus is not an algaecide.

Concluding this question, it is worth saying that mosses grow rather slowly, therefore the processes of fertilizer consumption by them are “slowed down”. From this we conclude that it is important not to allow an oversupply of fertilizers in the msharnik - "less is more and more."

Mosses aquarium care

The recommended parameters of water with the content of mosses water hardness KN = 1-4, gH = 5-10, pH = 6.3-6.7. However, mosses adapt well to less ideal water parameters. In our aquarium, the following water parameters: water KN = 6, gH = 8, pH = 7.2.

A very important point in the care of Masharin, are the correct water changes. As with any herbal aquarium, it is recommended to replace the water once a week in 1 / 4-1 / 2 part. The issue with water changes is individual, after starting it is necessary to look at what the tests say and visually evaluate the "aquarium health". In our aquarium, we did small water changes 1/4 - 1/3, but twice a week.

The current care for mosses is simple. As they grow, they are trimmed and shaped. A good haircut makes mosses more luxuriant and branchy.

Types of aquarium mosses with photos and descriptions

Mosses are a huge division of the plant world, which has more than 10,000 species. They can be attributed to the most ancient inhabitants of our planet, they appeared more than 300 million years ago.

Mosses are divided into three classes:

Anthocerotic mosses - characterized by lamellar thalli.

Hepatic mosses - small and gentle. The most famous moss is Riccia.

Leafy mosses - the most numerous class. It has three subclasses: Andreev, Sfagnovye, Briev.

In our aquarium we used the following types of mosses:

Triangular Moss - (Cratoneuron filicinum, Triangle Moss).

Beautiful, unpretentious moss, with long branches in the shape of an equilateral triangle. This species has long been recognized among aquarists. It grows very well to the substrate, has an interesting triangular shape, which is why it got its name. The growth rate is average, but under good conditions, an increase in growth was observed.

Moss flame (Taxiphyllum sp. 'Flame', Flame moss).

Very original moss. Most moss grows in different directions, flaming moss grows in waves and only upwards, which actually resembles a flame. From other mosses, also differs in a darker color. Unpretentious to the conditions of detention. Quietly tolerates the absence of CO2 at a pH of 7.5. Fertilization is not necessary.
This moss is often used to form "forest landscapes", it looks good both in the background and in the center of the composition.

Moss Phoenix - Fissidens Fountainus

(Fissidensfontanus, PhoenixMoss).

Moss Phoenix (fountain) was given this name, because it looks like a frozen fountain - it grows from the center in all directions, like a flowing fountain. With the help of it in the aquarium, you can perfectly simulate a hummock.

Like most mosses phoenix can grow in an aquarium with a low level of illumination (up to 0.5 W / L) and practically without additional supply of CO2, micro and macro fertilizer fertilizers. The growth rate is low. It grows well with its rhizoids to stones and coagles.

Java moss (Vesicularia dubyana).

The most common and popular moss. Absolutely unpretentious, not demanding of lighting or water parameters. Able to grow outside the ground - on snags, stones and other surfaces, while making the unique and inimitable landscape of your indoor pond. See the article for more details. Java moss.

Christmas moss (ChristmasMoss, Vesicularia montagnei).

Christmas Moss - along with Javanese moss, one of the most common aquarium mosses. A more branched tree-like structure distinguishes it from Javan moss, which is what its name owes. However, Christmas moss grown in poor conditions (low lighting, no CO2, micro and macro fertilizers, high dH, rare water changes) is not so ramified and it is very difficult to distinguish it from Java moss. In general, Christmas moss, like other aquarium mosses, is unpretentious.

Additionally, we used a little Queen moss / S.P. and Willow Moss, Bubble moss.

Decorating aquarium mosses

How to attach and tie aquarium mosses?

The process of decorating the aquarium mosses rather time-consuming. Especially a lot of patience is needed if you have conceived of recreating an aquascape in the style of "Dense Forest" and to translate the idea you need to use a large amount of moss.

tying moss to stone

tying moss to stone

All mosses that are well "cling" to the surface can be attached with threads, while the threads rot, the moss will catch. The mosses, which do not attach well, are fixed with a fishing line. Before you start decorating the aquarium with mosses, you must: carefully consider the composition, prepare scissors, a knife, a spray bottle, black threads, fishing line, super glue.

Video about mosses fastening at Takashi Amano's master class

track time 10:40

Absolutely easy to attach moss with super glue. The glue is very helpful when you need to attach moss outside the box or at a specific place where it cannot be done with threads and fishing line. In addition, glue can work even in water, making the final touches.

In the process of work, do not forget to moisten - spray mosses that are already tied with a spray gun. Spread the mosses themselves over the surface evenly and carefully, try not to allow excessive layering of the branches of moss on each other.

Conclusion

Let's once again focus on the most important aspects that are necessary to create a lush aquarium with mosses:

1. Perfect biological balance. In particular, the tuned nitrogen cycle is NH4-0, NO2-0, NO3-10.

2. Proper lighting (about 0.5 watts per liter or 30-40 lumens per liter).

3. Proper water changes.

4. High-quality and proper filtration of water.

5. Fertilizers: CO2, micro and macro are optional. But with their correct introduction of mosses "fluff".

6. Properly chosen hydrobionts. Shrimps are best friends of any fish! No American cichlids, goldfish or even seaweed should be in the aquarium with mosses. Neon and tetras look great in mosses. You can also use viviparous fish (swordtails, partilias, molninesia), however, it should be noted that they can slightly pinch moss.

We hope our recommendations will help you in building your first msharnik.

We wish you success!

Beautiful photos of the aquarium with mosses

Interesting video about aquarium mosses

Aquarium design. Snags for aquarium decoration.

Snags for aquarium decoration.

One of the natural materials for decoding home water is wood. To decorate aquariums, snags of fancy shapes have been used for a long time, dark and light, with a showing pattern of fibers. In aquariums with live plants, snags look very natural. Such an aquarium most repeats a piece of wildlife. Many snags fishes are required as shelters. Practically all the soma suckers, from the order Lorycarid snags are needed as food, polishing them, the somas get wood pulp, which helps the stomach work in digesting cellulose from plant foods. Snags release tannins into the water - fineness, and they have a very positive effect on the health of fish that are accustomed to living in an acidic habitat. Koryazhnik is the cheapest way to decorate an aquarium and, at the same time, allocate space for fish. To imitate a tropical forest biotope, snags, coconut shells and pieces of bark are well suited.

Fragments of trees are popular in aquarism for several reasons: 1). In addition to the mentioned benefits for fish, they naturally look in the underwater landscape you create. 2). They are lighter than stones, and when a wood structure collapses, there is less risk for pets and the glass walls of the aquarium. 3). Many species of fish, including cichlids and catfish, find shelters in the plexus of pigs. Snags are often used as decorative elements, however they play a more important role as a refuge for fish. four). They not only help to create shelters for fish, but also hide elements of the technical equipment of the aquarium. five). Many aquarists contain catfish from the Loricariidae family, and softened wood is the best menu for these fish. Loricariid catfish require the presence of natural rotting wood in the aquarium for the stable operation of their digestive tract. 6). Various aquarium plants (Anubiasas, Thai fern), which require a substrate to secure the roots, perfectly cling to snags. You can add to the snag and Javanese moss. 7). With the help of snags it is possible to form terraces with the ground ledges.

What is snag at all? These can be the rhizomes of a tree, a stump of a trunk, a bark, a stump or a blunt club. However, this does not mean that any piece of wood found in the wild is suitable for an aquarium, even if you find it in a river or stream. The aquarium does not have such an advantage as the constant renewal of water, dissolving and washing out all toxic organic substances emitted by decaying wood. In addition, natural acids are present in the wood, which can cause a noticeable decrease in pH. The tree used must be dead and free from vital juices. Just broken branches and knots from a living tree as a decoration in an aquarium are not suitable, even if they are thoroughly boiled, they will still rot in the aquarium, as the air in them does not completely come out. Wood containing live juices will require more serious and lengthy preparation. Taking a tree with rotten wood and rotten roots is not recommended. However, if the snag you liked has softened in some places, you can simply remove the rotten places. For the same reason, conifers and resinous rocks should not be used. It is impossible to immerse in the aquarium the bark of Portuguese cork oak (sold in flower shops), it releases into the water a complex of chemicals, including humic acids in high concentrations. Do not use wood with rot and mold, as well as from muddy places and from water bodies polluted with industrial and agricultural waste, as well as coniferous tree species.

What can be used in an aquarium.

The roots of trees that have lain for many years in flowing waters are best suited. The best snags from willows and salmon growing along the banks, roots and branches of willow or willow, as well as hard walnut and pear tree species. The most resistant willow and black-tailed snags, which have lain for a long time in the river, lake. Aquarists consider it a success to find the root of a willow that has lain in water for a long time, it sinks well and most likely will not be subject to decomposition, and its roots are intricately intertwined. The best place to collect kryag - coast natural reservoirs. It is desirable that the reservoir was flowing and not polluted by sewage.

The roots and branches of the following tree species are suitable: alder, willow, beech, ash, maple, alder, elm, juniper, willow, birch, acacia, olive tree or other deciduous trees. A bog oak, bamboo that has not been treated with preservatives, river mudflash, completely bleached with water and only hard pieces of wood, coconut shells, vine roots, and reed stalks are well suited. A controversial issue is the use of eucalyptus, as it, despite its pleasant color and intricate bends, contains tar and essential oils.

Today, relatively new and less known types of wood are imported. In addition, the market offers a variety of products of unknown origin, including mahogany. If you prefer tropical snags from tropical wood, then you can find fragments of heavy wood opuva and mopani, marshy osmol and mahoni (mahogany) on sale. Ginger mangrove roots can be seen on sale more often. Often under the guise of mangroves sold mopani. It is easy to distinguish mopani from mangrove due to the uniform brown color of mangrove wood. Mopani is almost always painted in two colors: outside it is light yellow, and the core is dark brown, snags have no sharp corners. Over time, mopani becomes more uniform dark color. Many types of this wood are so heavy that they do not need to be soaked with water at all. They immediately go to the bottom and even at the very beginning do not float to the surface. Nevertheless, they also need to be properly cleaned and, if possible, soaked: they emit too many humic substances, which in high concentrations excessively aggravate aquarium water. Having brought a snag from a pet store, it is advisable to rinse it thoroughly under a tap, with water and a stiff brush. To minimize staining, any snag should preferably be boiled in a salt solution of the watch 5-6, and then it is also desirable to boil the 4 hours in ordinary water. Mapani quickly ceases to allocate fineness and stain water, but Mangrove snags can do this for a year.

Archa (Caucasus) hollow tree. Very beautiful, but not durable, in water for the year almost goes to zero! Suckers eat very quickly - almost the thickness of a paper sheet. Plus, the structure is destroyed, because of this suspension is constantly in the water! Plants on it take root badly because of the fine dust from the wood itself.

Bamboo can be purchased at flower and gardening stores. Ensure that it has not been treated with preservatives or other chemicals. In gardening, bamboo sticks are commonly used as supports for peas or beans and other garden plants. Use only new sticks.

Vine. Vine covered with layered bark, which is easy to clean with a brush on the metal, exposing the beauty of the texture. The texture of the vines is knotted and intertwined, has curved shapes accompanied by grooves, slits and knoblike growths. The color of the texture of the vines is reddish brown. Раскидистые ветви лозы с изгибами и переплетениями перевёрнутые вниз, создадут вид корней, бордового цвета, спускающихся в воду над каменным гротом. Толщина основной ветви от основания 30-50 мм, высотой от 60 см до 100 см, с отростками от 20 до 40 см. Подлежат предварительной обработке для помещения в аквариум.The vine is a favorite delicacy of mailmen, and will most likely be eaten completely.

Oakchic if you manage to find a snag. Among them, first of all, it is necessary to name the swamp oak, from whose wood very entertaining crafts are made. Almost ready to use, the day is digested in the aquarium. Strongly painted water in brown, emit tannins. It lies in the water for a long time, it looks beautiful.

Koryazhnik - This is peat extraction, mainly root wood, which has lain in a swamp for up to a thousand years. Once, koryazhnik was the only type of wood that was used in aquarism. Dried snags are light and difficult to draw water when soaking.

Mangra. Mangrove snags are most often obtained from the woody roots of these plants, which grow very close to the sea in their natural homeland, if not directly in sea water. Such roots or products from them need to be soaked in water for a long time. Of these, salt must first come out, and tannic acids in large quantities. It takes a long time to digest. Water tints. In the aquarium looks very nice. Long persists, even with a large number of suckers. Beautifully decorated with moss. Often under the guise of mangroves sold mopani. It is easy to distinguish mopani from mangrove due to the uniform brown color of mangrove wood. Mopani is almost always painted in two colors: outside it is light yellow, and the core is dark brown, snags have no sharp corners.

Mopani (Iron tree). Imported (Africa) and domestic from the Caucasus. Wash under tap, without detergent. If desired, you can scald with boiling water and scrub with a brush. Or boil for 2 hours. The aquarium lives the longest, strong wood structure. Very original ornaments of the structure of the wood itself, but to create a beautiful scenery of these snags, they need a few, since the individual snag is too flat. At first, getting into the water, covered with white bacterial bloom, get suckers and they will polish them! Since the wood is very strong, it is difficult to break even with a nail, it is better to fix any vegetation with rubber bands. Water stains in tea color, it does not harm fish. After six months, with regular water changes, water staining passes.

Bog oak, as its name suggests, is located in swamps and swamps. It represents the remains of ancient trees that have been preserved for centuries due to the effects of natural preservative agents such as tannins. It is expensive, but it serves for many years and is a very attractive natural element of decorative design.

Alder. The most successful if you manage to find a snag. Digest the whole day, but then in the aquarium will be beautiful, since the forms of snags are always different grace. In the aquarium, unfortunately, catfish are very quickly eaten by suckers. The structure of the wood is excellent. Water does not spoil, and there is no suspension from the destruction of the wood itself. The water in the aquarium acidifies.

Aspen boiled day! Very beautiful rhizomes. Destroyed slowly. In the aquarium is a long time without consequences. Decorated with plants.

Corkwood - This is the bark of cork oak Quercus suber. It can be bought in some pet stores, as well as in flower and gardening stores. Strongly stained water brown.

Pine. There are koryazhki with hollows, there are twisted, there are razlapistye forms. A beautiful tree and especially rhizomes, but it takes a very long time to prepare. For a very long time it is necessary to soak, boil, soak, boil, soak, boil. Oil stains from tar come out long and slowly. Easy to decorate with plants. The structure is very strong, in the aquarium is very long.

Snag, that is, flooded fragments of trees, can be collected on the beach or freshwater reservoir. It is necessary to collect only completely bleached (due to the effects of natural elements) and hard pieces of wood. Immersion in seawater usually results in the removal of most tannins from the wood. However, the snag may contain salt residues that are undesirable in a freshwater aquarium.

Apple tree. Specific tree. But the aquarium looks beautiful. At the very base, if you got an old apple tree and there insects gnawed everything out, then there is no entrails for such a trunk. There is trash! Everything is removed, and it turns out a wooden pipe, which passes into the rhizome. Very nice and original look. The apple tree does not color the water very much; on the contrary, at first the water will acquire a golden color (beautifully combined with warm spectral lighting).

• Synthetic snags made of ceramic or plastic can also be used. Artificial snags for aquariums are also sold at pet stores. Some of them are strikingly realistic and literally indistinguishable from real wood. They are expensive, but, like stones, will serve you all your life.

Imported from the tropics koryazki really soaked in salt, protecting the wood from rotting only during transport. Before you put such a part of the tree in the decorative aquarium, it should be soaked in fresh water to remove the salt, and along with the substances that stain the water.

If you use brand snag bought at a pet store, then it is enough to soak it in salted water for a week. Salt will kill most of the possible bacteria and pull the sap and scrapping out of the tree, thereby preserving it. In addition, the tree will be filled with water, and will not float. Most wood species first paint the water, so a longer soaking does not hurt.

Form snags.

The first aspect to discuss is size. The best choice is a little smaller than you imagine the size you need, because too much cricket in an aquarium destroys the water landscape. Just as a too-intricate sling also makes the rest of the aquarium unattractive. There are several ways to design a plan with a cinch. First, pick a fancy coat, put it in an aquarium and build a layout around it. This path is usually used by beginners. Another way is to first come up with a profile shape and a composition, and then look for a coat that would fit there. Something average is to look after a beautiful cring and come up with a composition for her before dragging her into the house.

We go into the forest, to the river behind the bark for the aquarium.

To find a suitable snag, choose a day in the middle or at the end of summer when the water is low and the roots are bare. Among the flooded trunk with roots can be found entertaining in the form of fragments. Usually, root parts with the most bizarre shapes and textures are chosen, and it looks beautiful, and the fish have a place to hide. The best snags are willow snags, which have lain for a long time in a river, a lake, they are least susceptible to decomposition. Find such snags can be on the beach after the flood. Nature is the best hint for the designer. When you are looking for a snag or a stone in the forest or on the shore of a pond, you involuntarily try it on to your old plan, consider whether the item found fits. But since materials collected in nature have different shapes and colors, an unexpected find can change the whole original idea. Choose snags, whose branches reach the surface of the water, where the fish can hide from rivals. This is very important for labyrinths that need constant access to atmospheric air.

The wood must be dead. If you cut off a living root or branch of a tree, you will be punished: the juices of such a plant will poison the fish in the aquarium and spoil the water. The wood shed by insects is especially valuable, because the fact that it was visited by larvae and bugs, speaks of its "edibility" for catfish. Chain catfish prefer to scrape with a sucker not mangrove and mopani (they are tough enough), but apple, pear, walnut or willow. Snags for an aquarium are taken from shrunken trees, usually from the root part of them with the most bizarre forms and complex plexuses. For decoration of the aquarium, the roots of trees or branches of a bizarre shape are perfectly used; afterwards, you can “dig out” a few more holes with a chisel, but it's best if they are natural. It is best to take dead wood come from the reservoir. The main thing is not to be very rotten roots, but better without them at all.

On the spot, use a saw and an ax to separate the area you need, it should be larger than necessary for the aquarium. However, if the snag you liked has softened in some places, the rotten places can simply be removed. Using a knife, clean the bark from rot, bark and unwanted parts. Under a layer of black dust there is a beautiful wood with an interesting pattern. It is advisable to clean the bark, however, many aquarists leave it to the joy of the chain-makers. When choosing snags, give preference to those that are soaked with water and drown. During transport, the collected snags should not dry out either. To avoid this, they are wrapped with plastic wrap.

Houses should carefully examine the fragments and decide how they will be installed in the aquarium. At the same time, it is necessary to take into account the angle in which they look the best, and the presence of branches - supports that help the snag stand. If the original fragment lacks a pair of necessary supports, then they can be attached by joining pieces of wood with a wooden pin and epoxy resin. The pin of dry wood will soon swell from moisture and firmly connect both parts of the wood.

However, first of all, in the cords, it is necessary to remove excess parts. This should be done in such a way that traces of cutting or cutting with a knife are not visible. Everything artificial must be carefully hidden. Therefore, it is best to break off thin branches, thicker ones - to make an incision on the side that will be opposite to the viewer, and then also to bend it. Place the slices open with a knife, make them uneven. The cut in the thick part should also be turned back or down to the ground. Having given the shape to the necessary shape, the wood is once again thoroughly cleaned of decay (this is best done with a brush with stiff bristles). Use the same tool to rub and cut areas to remove cutting marks. After this cleaning, the water-soaked wood is ready for use in an aquarium.

If you do not want to drag snags from the reservoir, you can find any tree with a dense breed from the gardens (pear, apple, walnut).

Preparation of kryag for an aquarium:

Firstly, there is a processing method for purely decorative purposes. It is not suitable for those who want to please their catfish with the cellulose they need for digestion. For decorative purposes, any snag, which give the desired shape. If it does not sink, you can weight it by drilling at any place and pouring tin into the hole. Then dry wood 2-3 times coated with epoxy varnish. Dried, soaked for a week in a container with replaceable water, and it turns out "eternal" snag, it does not rot. And the choice of wood is not necessary to carefully approach.

Before immersion in the aquarium, the snag is processed: the bark is removed, dusty places are cleaned, its surface is treated with a large emery cloth, a stiff brush. The snag should not have sharp edges, about which the fish can get hurt, so it is necessary to sand the sharp knots. The snag extracted from a natural reservoir needs to be cleared of silt, dirt and decay. It is necessary to wash without the use of any detergents.

Next - digestion in a solution of salt. Fill with water, drown the snag completely and pour in the iodized salt. We pour in such an amount that it does not dissolve at room temperature. Usually use 1 kg per 10 liters of water. And we put the container on medium (small) fire, sprinkling some salt in a little. In other words, the temperature has risen by 20 degrees, the rash and dissolve the salt, ceased to dissolve, continue to heat and add salt, and so it is necessary to bring to a boil. Salt concentration in different sources is recommended to be different, but for fidelity, as well as to create high osmotic pressure, with the help of which harmful substances are removed from the snag, you need to pour salt until it ceases to dissolve. In such a saturated solution, the snag is boiled for two to twelve hours. Water as it boils need to constantly add. Boiling significantly speeds up the process of removing organic matter and water-staining substances. Some aquarists add potassium permanganate to salt, which additionally sterilizes snag and gives it a more saturated color, from dark brown to red-brown. Is it worth it to boil the snag if it is already soaked with water and will drown perfectly? Snags from natural reservoirs are really well soaked with water, but they need to be well sterilized.

You can burn the "snag" with a blowtorch until a uniform black layer of charred wood appears on the entire surface, which prevents rotting and gives the "snag" a beautiful dark color. After firing, you need to put a "snag" in the water for three to four days. Water should be changed every day, and wipe the “snag” with a cloth, removing soot and the upper, softer layer of charred wood.

Here is another way to handle crayfish. For this, any wood is suitable, both living and dead, but not of coniferous species. Thoroughly rinsing dirt, they are cleaned of bark. Then with a saw and knife give the desired shape. The billet is placed in the oven of an electric or gas stove and at a temperature of 200-250 degrees calcined for 2-3 hours. It is not necessary to raise the temperature of the treatment, since the tips of the branches and the protruding parts of the logs may be charred and there is a risk of losing the charred bark and small parts. As a result of the operation, the wood almost completely loses moisture, and, most importantly, complete sterilization of its deep layers is achieved. The surface takes on a beautiful brown color. Further processing is no different from the traditional: the snag is placed in a saturated solution of sodium chloride and boiled for 3-4 hours, then boiled as much in pure water. Potassium permanganate (one tablespoon per bucket of water), which has bactericidal properties and gives the wood a more intense color, gives an even better result.

Next, the wood is freed from salt by boiling in fresh water. Snags boil in fresh water twice as long as in salt water. The second stage of digestion can be replaced by soaking in running water or in frequently replaced water, necessarily drowning it, pressing it with a stone or a spreader. Soak the snag for about two weeks or until it drowns. If everything is correct, then the snag sinks itself, without any tricks and loads. Those who can not wait to strengthen the snag in their aquarium, you can not wait until the tree loses its buoyancy, but to strengthen it, resting one end on the screed of the aquarium. You can make a plate of plexiglass, attach a snag to it and put stones and soil on the plate.

The big problem is the quest for high capacity, the bigger the snag, the greater the capacity should be. The snag should sink in a forced manner with the possibility of contact with the surface of 5-6 cm. It is possible and less, but you have to watch the water, constantly pouring it. If you do not have suitable utensils for soaking the entire “snag” entirely, cut it into its component parts and process each part separately. After all treatments, connect the individual parts with wooden pins. The pins are best made of dry wood: they will swell in water and the connection will be strong. I must say that cutting a snag is not so easy. Many aquarists do not have the opportunity to cook a snag, especially large size, it is difficult for her to choose a suitable vessel. It is simply cleaned and immersed in a saturated solution of potassium permanganate (you can spoon a tablespoon into a bucket of water). But with this method, the deep layers of wood are not sterilized. Large snags can be soaked in a thick plastic bag of the appropriate size. Water is poured, tied with a scourge and put on the balcony. Then in the bath under a strong shower stream. And then under the shower to clean the whole snag with a stiff brush. In order not to score a drain in the bath, they put a fish net on it. This is repeated several times.

Even after such a serious preparation, snags can stain water for a long time. This is the fault of many types of wood. All these materials release tannins into water, make it more acidic and turn brown. Even for an aquarium with sour water, this is too much, so new materials of this kind should be carefully soaked or kept outdoors in the rain for "aging." But in an aquarium with a regular water change, this should not create big problems. Both processed and untreated mangroves and mopani also tint water: the color varies from brownish to light amber, and some like a new shade of water. Tannins and (according to some sources) humic acids are released into water, harmless to fish in low concentrations and easily removed with activated carbon placed in a filter.

As soon as the snag is free from salt and sinks, you can begin the decoration work. The composition should be one in meaning or form. Важно не перегрузить композицию лишними деталями, ибо, как бы красиво не смотрелись древесные корни, выглядывающие из-под растений, их не должно быть очень много. Кто-то приращивает соответствующие растения по всей поверхности коряги, а кто-то лишь в некоторых местах - и то, и другое одинаково эффектно. Корягами можно оформить задний фон, уложив их вдоль стекла. Лаком покрывать дерево не стоит, т.к. многие рыбы скребут древесину и могут отравиться.

Properly prepared snags will not cause trouble in an aquarium: water will not change color, and mold will not appear on wood. This element of the composition will become the favorite resting place of the chain catfish. They will hang on a snag, and scrape the upper, soaked layer of wood. Such zeal of mail soms allows you to keep the wood clean, the pattern of wood fibers will always be open to your eyes. Through the years, small fish will gnaw out even small depressions, in which somas will hide at the slightest danger.

Sometimes on the softened wood one can notice the appearance of mold fungi. If after some time in the aquarium, a white bloom appears on the coarse, this means that it was improperly prepared. Careful observation of the fish will give the answer: whether it harms them or not. Often, catfish perfectly cope with it, as well as with saprophytic mushrooms, which are almost always present on a snag in an aquarium, but they are noticeable only where live wood is submerged, there is no one to snag the snag, or it sticks out of the water. The fungus disappears after a while without your intervention.

Decorations of bamboo, reed or reed.

Once the conversation turned to the use of wood in the aquarium, you can not miss the bamboo. It should be prepared just like other wood. Wood, bamboo and cane stalks are boiled for 3-4 hours in a strong salt solution (in stainless steel or enamelware), it is useful to add a few tablespoons of baking soda. Then dry and again 3-4 hours to cook in saline. Salt should be poured so much that, after vigorous stirring, it remains at the bottom, dissolving only when water is heated. It is not necessary to add other antiseptics and disinfectants to water - sterility is achieved without it. After the wood has boiled down, it must be washed for 7–10 days in running or frequently replaced water. After that, the ends are thickly covered with liquid glass, and after complete curing is placed in the oven for 1-2 hours. Anyone who would like to use bamboo, reed, cane tubes to decorate their aquarium, should certainly be disinfected with hydrogen peroxide or potassium permanganate, and then, after washing and drying, lower at least their open ends into molten polyethylene in order to give them strength. In order for the stems in the water not to spoil, their ends are pre-dipped in liquid glass. However, there is no guarantee that after a more or less long stay in the aquarium, the bamboo will not start to rot. It depends both on its quality and on the thoroughness of the preparation.

Bamboo stalks, well known to everyone from the old rods, have an expressive texture and a pleasant light color. For greater effect, it is desirable to use a different diameter of bamboo. Of these parts of the plant in the reservoir arrange something like reed thickets that are visible from under the water. Tubes must be distributed in water in irregular groups, as is usually the case in nature. To do this, the stems are divided into segments so that, when installed in an aquarium, they penetrate through the surface of the water. How to fix the bamboo stalks in the right position? The first thing that comes to mind is to take a sheet of plastic and, using screws at a certain angle, attach segments of the stems to it. The cogs will have to be coated with epoxy or silicone glue (they are both poorly attached to wood and plastic). Do not do without waterproofing, as even stainless screws will corrode. Therefore, it is easier to mount the stems on a piece of silicate glass with silicone glue and wooden dowels. To do this, first cut the required pieces of bamboo and think about how they will be placed on the base. Then glue in the right places thin wooden pins and leave the glue to fully polymerize. The next day, attach pieces of bamboo to the rods. If everything was done carefully, then the mount, even after getting wet, is quite strong. Bamboo stalks can also be strengthened on a wooden plate with holes.

So that the composition of bamboo segments is solid and the stems constantly maintain a certain inclination, you can fasten them in a similar way in the upper part. All this construction is installed on the glass bottom of the aquarium, and gravel is piled on top of it, hiding the lower sections. It is possible to do otherwise: connect the decoration only in the upper part, and place the glass supporting plate on the internal edges of the reservoir. The stalks of bamboo are not attached to the bottom, which contributes to the change in their inclination. The length of the segments in this case should be such that the lower section is hidden in the thickness of the ground. The only thing that should always be avoided when placing is the position in which both ends of the stem are firmly clamped between the opposite walls of the aquarium, for example between the bottom and the upper screed. Bamboo does not swell in water, but this effect is inherent in it, and under the worst circumstances, the stem can break the glass.

Another important note: before you collect all the scenery from bamboo, try to keep air inside the hollow stems. To do this, either drill the walls of the stem along the axis with a long drill, or in places hidden from the viewer's eyes, make small holes in each section of the stem through which air will escape. It is safer to make two holes: one immediately under the partition, and the second lower, since air can not escape through one small hole. So that the bamboo does not contaminate the water with coloring substances, pre-soak it in water for at least a week and make sure that it ceases to produce juice. Unfortunately, these stems sooner or later begin to rot, especially in the place of contact with air. But after a few years the scenery can be changed.

Artificial snags and stones.

Now on sale you can find artificial snags and stones made of plastic or ceramics. The advantage of such decorative elements is that they are not massive, not subject to rotting, their size and shape can be selected in accordance with the size of the reservoir. The negative side of any fake is that carelessly made copies of natural objects can be distinguished by unnatural color or the wrong pattern. If you decide to use artificial snags and stones, then give preference to high-quality products, well imitating the texture and color of natural materials.

A source:

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