Glue for an aquarium. How to glue the aquarium?
Having a home aquarium is very useful. According to psychologists, watching the fish, a person calms down, relaxes. Yes, and the kind of colorful, beautiful fish, quickly moving around the aquarium, always happy!
Today, the pet market is quite diverse. Therefore, beginner fish breeders most often acquire a ready-made aquarium. But aquarists with experience, as a rule, prefer to do them on their own. After all, this is the way to achieve the desired size and volume.
Choosing glass for aquarium
In order to self-glue the aquarium, it is necessary, first of all, to prepare the necessary materials.
It is better to order glasses in the workshop, because the machine performs cutting there (cutting accuracy in this case is higher). When ordering, be sure to clarify that it is necessary glass for the aquarium. It should be silicate, only the highest grade and 8-10 mm thick, since the thinner may not be strong enough and can not withstand the pressure of water.
All glasses are divided into 2 groups - window and polished. The former have a more affordable price, but for the manufacture of aquariums can not be used. The characteristic waviness and greenish tint will have a negative impact on the appearance of the finished product. In polished glass there are no such disadvantages, it provides a perfectly flat surface.
Before you glue the aquarium, you should choose the method of assembly. There are two of them:
- Vertical sides set to the bottom. So glue small aquariums, but this method is rarely used.
- The walls are glued around the bottom. This method ensures the strength and reliability of the finished product.
Glue for aquarium
Self-bonding aquarium involves the correct choice of adhesive. Silicone must be present in its composition.
When choosing, you should carefully examine the packaging. Glue for the aquarium should be designed specifically for this product. Its composition should not include antibacterial substances that are detrimental to fish and plants.
Aquarium glass adhesive can be of several colors:
- black (looks great in large aquariums).
For those who glue the product for the first time, it is better to choose a transparent glue for aquariums (waterproof). For ease of use it is recommended to purchase a special gun that helps squeeze the tool.
Silicone sealants are considered the most universal remedy. Their advantages:
- long service life;
- the tool provides reliable adhesion to any surface;
- silicone is easy to use;
- does not emit harmful substances.
In addition, the glue for the aquarium freezes quite quickly, in just 20 minutes, and after a day the polymerization is finally completed. The seams are very strong. At the same time, silicone retains its elasticity. Before starting to use a sealant, make sure that the surfaces to be treated are clean, dry and degreased.
In addition to silicone, you can use epoxides. However, they are more fluid, harden for a long time and require more thorough cleaning of the surface.
Convenient to use cold welding. This remedy is chemically inert, seizes in a few minutes.
Cyacrines are also good, only when gluing the aquarium between the parts should be small gaps.
If you can not find aquarium sealant, you can purchase a tool that is intended for plumbing or dishes. Only in its composition should not be antifungal additives.
Pasting of an aquarium
The work is carried out in several stages:
- To protect the glass from contamination, glue it over with masking tape. From each edge leave a distance equal to the thickness of the glass.
- All surfaces are degreased - rubbed with an acetone containing agent or alcohol.
- The glue joint should be made as smooth as possible. To do this, put on the end of a little silicone. After hardening, cut it off with a blade, leaving a small ledge above the glass. It will help to make a uniform seam.
- Gluing is carried out on a solid and flat surface, covered with polyethylene. First, the glass is glued, which will be located in front, then - the side and all the other parts. Excess glue for the aquarium from the glass should be removed with a cloth previously moistened with a solution of water and vinegar.
- After about an hour, the seams need to be smeared with silicone and leave the product to dry. Aquarium is ready to use.
❶ How to glue aquariums :: Equipment and accessories
Tip 1: How to glue aquariums
In our time, the pet market is very diverse. Therefore, novice fish breeders, as a rule, acquire a ready-made aquarium. But enthusiastic aquarists with experience prefer to glue them on their own. After all, this is the way to achieve the desired size and volume.
1. In order to glue the aquarium yourself, you must first prepare materials. It is better to order glasses for it, since the machine cuts them in the workshop and the cutting accuracy will be higher. Glasses should be 8–10 mm thick, since thinner ones may not be strong enough and cannot withstand water pressure. When ordering, specify that you need glasses for the aquarium, so there is a greater likelihood that the masters will not allow the error.
2. Once you have received the glass, process their edges. To do this, carefully drive along the edge under a stream of water with a grinding block. At the same time, the edges themselves need not be processed, since the sealant with which you will glue the product seizes smooth surfaces better. Edging is necessary so that in the future you will not get hurt when installing and washing the aquarium.
3. As soon as you have finished the edges, wash the glass from dust and wipe with a cloth moistened with acetone to degrease the surfaces to be glued. At the edges of the glass with an indentation of 3-4 mm it is necessary to glue the masking tape or duct tape so that the seam from the sealant is even and neat.
4. Next, you need to take the side and rear surface of the future aquarium. They should be placed at right angles. It is better if you secure the structure with adhesive tape. Then carefully apply the sealant in the angle that forms between the surfaces of the glass. Excess sealant can be removed using a rubber spatula.
5. Similarly, you need to collect the remaining glass. The second side glass is glued to the back surface, then the outer one, and then the whole structure is placed on the bottom. The main thing is do not rush. On the glue you can take a few days. Carefully ensure that the sealant lies flat and dry thoroughly.
6. As soon as the aquarium is ready, you need to stick stiffeners. For small aquariums, they are glued arbitrarily, and for products over 50 liters in volume - along long walls. This helps reduce the water pressure on the glass.
Tip 2: How to glue the aquarium
Constructions aquariums very diverse. A regular rectangular frame aquarium is still relevant, as it is more convenient to maintain it than a round one. In addition, it is much stronger than an aquarium without a metal frame.
You will need
- Roofing iron - strips 10 cm wide, 1.5 mm thick
- Glass window or showcase thickness of 4.3 mm
- Oil paint
- Epoxy resin
- Epoxy resin remover
- Sifted building cement
- Plasticizer (dibutyl phthalate)
- Glass cutter
- Rubber gloves
- Protective glasses
- 150-200W soldering iron
- Soldering acid
- Scissors for metal
- Locksmith desktop with vise
1. For an aquarium with a bottom size of 25x30 cm and a height of 40 cm, cut 4 metal strips 25 cm long, 4 - 30 cm each, 4 - 40 cm each. Bend the strips lengthwise so that they form a corner.
2. From strips of 25 and 30 cm solder the ends of the frame. Connect them together in strips of 40 cm. Using a file and emery paper, smooth the seams.
3. Cut the bottom, side and end walls of the glass. Their size should be 20 mm smaller than the outer edges of the aquarium. Glasses should not rest against the frame and each other. Otherwise they may burst. Wipe the glass and frame with a degreasing solvent.
4. Prepare a putty in a clean, wide dish. Pour the sifted cement. In order to smear one glass, you need 2 cups of cement. Make a hole in the cement and start pouring epoxy resin there. Stir and knead the resulting mass to the consistency of thick dough. Add a plasticizer in an amount equal to the amount of hardener (depending on resin consumption). Stir the mixture thoroughly again. If it is not liquid enough, you can add a solvent. At the end, add a hardener and mix again.
5. Turn the aquarium on its side so that the side with which you are currently working, lay on a flat surface. Roll the long rollers out of the putty and place them on the frame around the glass perimeter. Align the rollers. Place skim glass on top and press it firmly against the frame, taking into account that the glass should not touch each other in the future. In this case, due to the edges of the glass will be squeezed out an excess of putty. Remove it with a knife, without turning the frame. Put the load on the glass and leave it for about 12 hours. After 12 hours, place the aquarium vertically and use a knife to cut off the excess putty from the outside. So glue all the remaining glass. First, the side windows are glued in, then the front glass, and lastly - the bottom. After that, insulate the inside of the shelf with the putty from the inside of the frame, that is, the upper metal part of the frame. Full curing of the putty takes 48 hours.
6. Wipe the aquarium with solvent inside and out. Fill the aquarium to the top with water. Usually, aquariums made with this technology are quite tough and do not have leaks. If a leak is detected, isolate it with the same composition, pre-drying the aquarium. Drain and paint the aquarium frame with a light oil paint. Do not forget to paint the upper shelf of the aquarium.
7. Refill the tank with water for two days. This is necessary in order to remove from the joints the harmful soluble substances contained in the putty. After two days, drain the water and wash the aquarium using baking soda. Rinse it thoroughly, then fill it with water and plant the plants. Before settling the fish, it is desirable that the aquarium stood with the plants for a week or two.
Metal strips are soldered with each other overlap.
Work with metal should be carried out with glasses and gloves, since acid is used.
It is better to make more putty. If it is not enough, then add later it will be impossible.
Putty should not arbitrarily spread over the surface. If it spreads, add more cement.
Instead of roofing iron, you can take a metal corner 20x20 mm with a thickness of 3 mm. In this case, the frame must be ordered welder. The glasses are glued with a rubber-like sealant (UT-32, U-30, GSB or Aviation Grade HA).
To prevent the frame and glass from sticking to the table, put old plastic bags under it.
Excess putty can be used to isolate the upper open part of the frame.
As a cargo when gluing glass, you can use a three-liter jar of water.