Turbid water in the aquarium: what to do
This article will be devoted to the consideration of problems related to the water in the aquarium. Turbid water spoils aesthetics, negatively affects the living conditions of the inhabitants. Its appearance can be not only a prerequisite for flowering, but also a signal of a number of problems with the soil, with plants, with the composition, talking about the disease of fish and other pets. The fight against it is solved, but it requires attention, observation and care of the owner.
Causes of turbidity and tips to eliminate it
Aquarium is a special natural-territorial complex with individual properties. Changing one part may entail a change in the whole. So, consider the main causes of turbidity:
- improperly selected soil;
- improper feeding of the inhabitants;
- frequent or abnormal water changes;
- missing or malfunctioning filter;
- the presence of large fish;
- small size aquarium.
All these factors lead either to mechanical pollution of the water, or, worse, to bacterial.
Consider the cases of mechanical pollution. These include the small size of the aquarium, the presence of large fish, the wrong ground.
The small size of the aquarium leads to frequent biochemical flashes, especially if the inhabitants are chosen incorrectly. Thus, the smallest containers are usually allocated for shrimps, snails, and other relatively neutral residents.
When dregs appear, it is necessary to reconsider and, if possible, change the population of the aquarium, settle the filtration. Perhaps the problem is in the wrong type of filter.
Tips for eliminating:
- Change the location of the filter (from horizontal to vertical or vice versa), as the landscape can interfere with the flow of water.
- Replace the filter itself. A stronger filter or another type of filter (bottom, internal, external) can help.
- Change the filter filler.
- Follow the lighting in the day, if necessary, reduce it.
- Change the population from too large fish to small ones or reduce the number of small fish, but increase the number of biological cleaners.
The soil must be properly selected, pet shop consultants will always help. And it also needs to be poured competently, not evenly horizontally, but with a slope to the back wall in order to make it easier to clean.
The water in the aquarium turns green: reasons
The color of the water in the aquarium is determined by various factors. Among them are the presence of living plants or slugs, feed properties, low oxygen saturation, reproduction of bacteria and, as a result, the growth of algae, which are deposited on the ground, glass, and everything that is in the water.
The reproduction of microscopic green euglenian algae leads to the staining of the aquatic environment in a yellow-green or bright green unnatural color. A small amount of these plants is always available in any aquarium. They get with food, imperceptibly contained even in clear water. And active reproduction leads to greening, which can be caused by improperly organized, excessive lighting of the aquarium. Trying to keep the fish in sight, you still need to protect them from direct sunlight, as well as from enhanced artificial lighting. In winter, lighting should be switched on for no more than 10 hours, and on a summer day - for 12 hours. Otherwise, euglena can cover both walls and decor items; it will not be so easy to clean them in the future.
To combat single-celled algae, you can place a horn plant in the aquarium, which will release water from excess nitrogen, and the growth of microalgae will be stopped. If possible, add tadpoles or daphnias, and after a day remove them from purified water.
An increased level of phosphate in the water also leads to its fast greening. These salts may be contained in large quantities in fish feed and into the water with excrement. The source of phosphate can serve as tap water. To combat excess phosphate, you can plant special plants. Chemical methods are used for cleaning. There are special powders for sale that are harmless to fish and plants.
When buying fish to novice aquarists, it is recommended to always consult with experts working in the store. They will help not only to choose the ground, filter, food, but also explain what kind of fish can be planted in one aquarium.
Muddy aquarium: from what and why the water becomes cloudy, what to do
PROBLEMS OF THE MUTT AQUARIUM
problems of whitish, green, brown waterTurbidity of the aquarium is a frequent occurrence in new, just-launched aquariums. However, "aquarium murk" does not bypass the already established "old" reservoirs. On the Internet, a lot has been written on this issue. There are lots of articles and even talmudov about the turbid state of aquarium water. However, a significant drawback of these articles, in my opinion, is the lack of practical recommendations for eliminating turbidity and its causes. Yes, theory is good, but what to do? How to get rid of turbidity? What preparations should be used in a given situation, what actions should the aquarist take to make the aquarium beautiful and the water truly clean?
We will try to answer all these questions in this article.
So, the reasons that the aquarium water has become muddy are:
- mechanical factors;
- biological factors;
MUTT AQUARIUM: MECHANICAL FACTORS
theory, reasons, ways to eliminate Aquarium water is a closed ecosystem, where there are various artificial elements that recreate the natural conditions of fish habitat. As well as in nature, water in the aquarium may cloud due to the large number of small suspended particles that were lifted from the bottom of the aquarium, separated from the scenery, formed as a result of the livelihood of aquatic organisms (all aquatic inhabitants).
It can be said that the mechanical clouding of the aquarium is trivial, in fact, it is the dirt and debris of the aquarium, which arose as a result of laziness or proper, improper care for the aquarium.
Let's take a closer look at the reasons for this action:
Errors made when starting the aquarium. Usually the launch of the first, new, just bought aquarium, occurs in a euphoric state. A beginner in a hurry puts the aquarium in a hurry, pours in the ground there, sets the decor and fills it all with water.
Alas, such a rush, later does not well affect the appearance of the aquarium. Water appears in the water, which has not previously been washed away or washed from the scenery and the ground. This is especially true of the ground. Before you lay it on the bottom of the aquarium, it should be washed thoroughly and more than once. Otherwise, dust and small particles of soil will "spread out" throughout the aquarium.
Not the right or inappropriate care. As a result of the vital activity of fish, plants, crustaceans and other inhabitants of the aquarium, waste is generated: feces, food remains, dead organics.
If proper, regular maintenance or filtering of aquarium water is not properly set up in the aquarium, all these residues accumulate. And eventually they begin to swim throughout the reservoir. Moreover, the residues gradually decompose, which gives prerequisites for biological clouding.
The use of "not correct" decorations in the design of the aquarium. As the decoration of the aquarium can not use bulk, soluble and coloring objects. All these objects will sooner or later be washed out or dissolved by water, which will lead not only to a violation of the aesthetic appearance, but also threatens with chemical poisoning of all living things in the aquarium.
Ways to eliminate mechanical turbidity in the aquariumNaturally the first is a thorough cleaning of the aquarium with the replacement? aquarium water to fresh, plus siphon aquarium bottom and cleaning the walls of the aquarium. Extract all the "bad" decorations.
The second is the enhanced filtration of aquarium water. The existing filter is cleaned and washed, re-installed. Plus, another new filter is installed or a more powerful filter is bought to replace the old one.
Tip: Mechanical turbidity in the aquarium is very fine. Under the influence of any oscillation (excitement), it sweeps up and heaves. Before the general cleaning of the aquarium, it is recommended to turn off aeration and filtration in the aquarium for 2-3 hours, a little more. In the absence of generated water currents, all small particles floating in the water will gradually sink to the bottom and aquarium decorations. After that, they will be easy to collect siphon.
Preparations eliminating mechanical turbidity in an aquarium
Aquarium coal - Absorbent, perfectly coping with pollution of the aquarium. Coal is poured after cleaning the aquarium in the filter compartment and held there for two weeks. After that, a new portion of coal is removed and, if necessary, poured.
TetraAqua CrystalWater (drug TM "Tetra") - binds small particles that are in the water and combines them into larger ones, which are then either removed through a filter, or are deposited on the bottom. Such a course of the cleaning process is guaranteed for any kind of filter.
If small particles still float in the water, these may be food remnants, with over-feeding, or particles of soil that have risen after changing water.
The product acts on both the physical and chemical levels. The first results are noticeable 2-3 hours after application. After 6-8 hours, the water becomes clean, and after 6-12 hours - crystal clear. Dosage: 100 ml per 200 l of aquarium water.
Tetra Crystal Water is recommended even with a slight clouding of the aquarium, it is very useful to use the drug before the photo session of the aquarium. In practice, the period of complete water purification can stretch for 2 days. Most likely it depends on the degree of pollution of the reservoir.
Sera aquaria clear (similar to the previous drug, but from TM "Sulfur") - a means for removing contaminants from aquarium water, quickly, simply and reliably connects the "dregs" of any origin in aquariums.
Bound "turbidity" is removed using a filter installed in your aquarium within a few minutes. Sera Aquaria Clear - acts biologically and does not contain harmful active substances, effectively removes contaminants from the aquarium water.
MUTT AQUARIUM: BIOLOGICAL FACTORS
theory, reasons, ways to eliminate Aquarium water is not sterile. Even when the water visually looks perfectly clean, it contains various microorganisms and fungi that are not visible to the human eye. And this is the normal state of affairs.
In our world, everything is interconnected; everything that was invented by God is not superfluous and is needed for something. Fungi and bacteria (good or bad) in aquarium water play a crucial role for all other inhabitants of the aquarium. Fungi are involved in the decomposition of dead organics, bacteria recycle ammonia, nitrites and nitrates (aquarium poisons), etc.
Now imagine what happens if this process is disrupted? That's right, there will be murkiness! Such a violation in akvaraimistiki called "biobalance violation" or "biological equilibrium."
By the time of flow, the biobalance violation can be divided into:
Violations in the "young" - a new, just-launched aquarium;
Violations in the "old" - well-established aquarium;
MUTTY YOUNG AQUARIUM
dimmed water in a newly launched aquariumIn many sources on this issue it is very briefly written: "Do not worry, the clouding of your aquarium will pass by itself in 3-5 days." And the point! After reading this, the aquarium novice exhales, says "Fuv, thank God" and calms down on it.
But, with this position we can agree only partially. Yes, indeed the first 3-5 days of the newly launched aquarium will be muddy. Then whitish cloudiness, similar to fog or colostrum (sometimes with a brownish or greenish tinge) disappears by itself. But, as mentioned above, “aquarium water is not sterile,” and the absence of turbidity does not indicate that the problem has been solved.
What happens in a young aquarium? Why does the water in the aquarium grow turbid?
In short, in the aquarium there is a setting of biological balance. Namely, there is a rapid growth of bacteria, fungi and other unicellular microorganisms. At the same time, products of life of fish and other inhabitants of the reservoir accumulate in the aquarium. Not joining of the two leads to their excessiveness, which is manifested visually in the form of turbidity of water. Gradually, the process is aligned and the biological chain closes. In other words, the amount of food (dead organics, fish food residues, feces) is equal to the number of colonies of beneficial bacteria, and of fungi, which they eat and decompose into smaller “elements”.
Based on the above, we can agree that the clouding of a young aquarium is not so scary. But, it can be prevented! Or rather help the aquarium tune faster. How? We will talk about this a little later.
MUTT OLD AQUARIUM
clouding of an established aquariumIf the clouding of a young aquarium is forgivable to an aquarist, then dregs in the old pond are his sin! Violation of the biobalance in well-established water bodies is often due to oversight, due to the lack of basic care, due to ignorance or unwillingness to know what is happening in the aquarium. The exculpatory causes of the clouding of the old aquarium include “whiteness after the treatment of fish”, that is, when aquarium chemistry and preparations were used in the aquarium. Like any "medicine" aquarium chemistry has side effects, in particular the violation of biological equilibrium.
What happens in the old aquarium? Why does the water grow cloudy in it?
And almost the same thing happens as in a young aquarium. But, if I may say so, in regressive order.
To make it even clearer to you, let's break the aquarium biological chain into links. NITROGEN CYCLE is as follows.
"DIRT AND TRASH"
(remnants of dead organics, fish food, feces, etc.)
decompose under the action of bacteria in
AMMONIA / AMMONIUM
(the strongest poison, destructive for all living things)
under the action of another group of bacteria is decomposed into
NITRITES, and then NITRATES
(less dangerous, but also poisons)
further decompose to
and out of the aquarium water
As you understand, this process is multistage and has its own nuances.
For those that want to study it in more detail, I recommend to go to the forum thread NITRITES AND NITRATES IN THE AQUARIUM. And now imagine what will happen in the old aquarium, if one of the links, for one reason or another, falls out? That's right - dregs! Sorry for the tautology))) Unlike the dregs in a young aquarium, the turbidity in the old aquarium not only spoils the appearance of the aquarium, but is also very dangerous. The following happens: under the influence of non-excreting poisons, the fish’s immunity weakens, their defense mechanisms weaken and become unable to resist the “harmful” - pathogenic bacteria and fungi (which are always in the water). As a result, the fish gets sick and if you do not conduct treatment in time, the fish dies. Thus, we can conclude that the violation of biological balance is the primary cause of the death of aquarium fish. In fairness, it should be said that the saturation of aquarium water with excess ammonia, nitrite and nitrate - can occur without turbidity of the aquarium water. What is even worse, because the enemy is invisible.
HOW TO GET RID OF BIOLOGICALLY DISTURBED AQUARIUM
or how to set up biobalance
First of all, you need to make regular cleaning in the aquarium, do not overfeed the fish. Remember that only the constant and correct replacement of aquarium water to fresh water is an effective way to get rid of poisons.
ATTENTION: To replace the water in a young aquarium, in order to get rid of turbidity is not necessary. In the first month, the water in a young aquarium generally needs to be tried less often and in smaller volumes. Water should "infuse."
Drugs that eliminate the biological clouding of the aquarium - preparations setting biobalance:
Almost all aquarium brands in their arsenal have a line of products that customize the biological balance.
The essence of these drugs can be divided into those that:
- neutralize poisons (nitrites and nitrates);
- promote the growth of colonies of beneficial denitrifying bacteria or are a ready concentrate of these bacteria.
To achieve the maximum effect, you should use these drugs in a complex. Especially with a flash of nitrite and nitrate.
Preparations that neutralize nitrites and nitrates Zeolite is an ion exchanger, in fact, as well as aquarium coal is an absorbent. But, unlike coal, which is not able to “tighten” nitrites and nitrates, zeolite copes with it perfectly. Zeolite is used not only in aquarism, it is widely used in other areas of human life. Поэтому его можно даже купить на развес.
Цеолиты - это большая группа близких по составу и свойствам минералов, водные алюмосиликаты кальция и натрия из подкласса каркасных силикатов, со стеклянным или перламутровым блеском, известных своей способностью отдавать и вновь поглощать воду в зависимости от температуры и влажности. Другим важным свойством цеолитов является способность к ионному обмену - they are able to selectively release and reabsorb various substances, as well as exchange cations.
Aquarium preparations containing zeolite.
Fluval zeo-carb - a filler for filters zeolite + absorbent carbon.
This is a combination of Fluval activated carbon and Fluval Ammonia Remover. Working together, these highly effective means of active filtration, which eliminate pollution, odors and color, and at the same time, remove toxic ammonia:
- Protects an aquarium from toxic ammonia.
- At the same time, coal adsorbs waste materials, dyes and drugs from water.
- Reduces the phosphate content in water.
The combination of the two products frees up space in your filter for other types of filtering.
Aquael ZeoMAX Plus - zeolite in the form of small crumb, removes ammonia and phosphates, stabilizes pH.
Due to its chemical structure, it provides excellent absorption of organic pollutants, nitrogenous compounds and phosphates that are toxic to fish, which are a consequence of the metabolism of aquarium inhabitants.
Zeolite should not be left in the filter for more than one month.
For more information about the advantages and disadvantages of zeolite, see the forum thread "Nitrites and nitrates", namely HERE.
The drug acting at the chemical level.
Sera toxivec - a drug that at the chemical level instantly eliminates NO2NO3. Since this is chemistry, it is recommended to use it as a preventive measure and once.
Immediately removes hazardous contaminants, life-threatening fish and filter bacteria, from aquarium water. Equal effectiveness against different types of pollutants makes this tool especially valuable.
Sera Toxivec instantly eliminates ammonia / ammonia and nitrites. Because of this, it prevents their transition into nitrates and helps prevent the growth of irritating algae.
In addition, Sera Тoxivec eliminates aggressive chlorine from tap water. Also effective as a disinfectant disinfectant and medication remover.
At the same time, it is capable of even more: it binds toxic heavy metals such as copper, zinc, lead, and even mercury. Therefore, these pollutants can not harm the fish and beneficial bacteria in the biofilter. Due to this, the frequency of water changes can be reduced.
If necessary, for example, with particularly high levels of contamination, an increase in the applied dose of the agent is allowed. Repeated depositing is allowed in one or two hours.
Drugs that promote the growth of beneficial colonies
bacteria or are ready concentrate bacteria Tetra Bactozym - This conditioner, accelerating the process of stabilization of biological equilibrium, in the filter and aquarium. Suitable for fresh and sea water.
Tetra Bactozym accelerates the conversion of nitrites to nitrates and contains a concentrate of enzymes and substances that contribute to the development of beneficial aquarium microflora. It makes water crystal clear and provides enzymatic decomposition of dissolved organics. The use of an air conditioner reduces the damage done to the beneficial microflora when changing water and washing the filters, and restores microorganisms that are weakened or damaged by the use of medicines.
We draw your attention to the fact that biostarters contain various types of cultures of bacteria and enzymes. Too high or low temperatures reduce their effectiveness.
Tetra NitranMinus Perls (granules) - for reliable reduction of nitrate in water. The drug eliminates the nutritional element necessary for the development of algae, which allows for a long time to improve water quality, reducing, thereby, the need for care of the aquarium.
- lowering the level of nitrates by 12 months by biological means.
- significantly algae growth is restrained.
- just buried in the ground.
Tetra NitrateMinus (liquid conditioner) - biological reduction of nitrates, calculated for 12 months. Improves water quality. Interferes with formation and growth of seaweed (duckweed). Designed for all types of marine and freshwater aquariums.
Convenient dosing: 2.5 ml of new liquid NitrateMinus for every 10 liters of water, once a week.
Like NitrateMinus in granules (Pearls), liquid NitrateMinus facilitates the processing of nitrates into nitrogen and lowers carbonate hardness. A decrease in nitrates by 60 mg / l leads to an increase in carbonate hardness of approximately 3 KH. With regular use of the drug after replacing water, the pH of the water stabilizes and the risk of falling acidity decreases.
Fully compatible, NitrateMinus is based on biological processes in an aquarium and is completely safe for fish. It combines perfectly with TetraAqua EasyBalance and other Tetra products.
Sera bio nitrivec (Sera bio nitrivek) - A preparation for quick launch of the aquarium. Special blend of various high-quality cleansing bacteria for aquariums. Sera nitrivek prevents the accumulation of ammonium and nitrite. The use of Sera nitrivek makes it possible to place the fish in the newly created aquarium already 24 hours after application. When entering the water bacteria
begin to act immediately. The resulting effect is stored in
For a long time, giving a crystal water aquarium water.
There are other drugs of identical orientation. I recommend sharing Tetra Bactozym and Tetra NitranMinus Perls.
And when using NO2NO3 flashes, use zeolite.
How else can you achieve a “good biobalance”?
- Biological equilibrium is more stable if live aquarium plants are present in the aquarium. Plants partially absorb the decay elements of living organics and thereby reduce their concentration. The more aquarium plants, the better. I recommend to read the article. AQUARIUM PLANTS ALL FOR BEGINNERS.
- Aquarium snails and fish "orderlies" will help you in cleaning the aquarium. "Squad" of the same coil snails copes with dying leaves and organic matter. Fish nurses also help in this matter. Most of the aquarium catfish can be attributed to them: corridors, antsistrusy, girinoheiliusy, aquatic sequences, thoracacums and many others.
- It is advisable to use multistage filtration of aquarium water. And also use other methods to improve water quality, for example, phyto filtration.
Useful video about muddy water in the aquarium
How to get rid of muddy water in the aquarium :: mud aquarium muddy water :: Aquarium fish
How to get rid of muddy water in the aquarium
The presence of an aquarium in the house does not mean that the aquarium is your hobby. Very often, aquariums are bought to decorate an apartment as part of a design project, not knowing the intricacies of keeping fish. Unfortunately, the water often becomes cloudy, and it is very difficult to understand the reasons.
The question "opened a pet shop. Business is not going. What to do?" - 2 answers
You will need
- - Filtration system;
- - water from another aquarium;
- - the right food for fish;
- - snails;
- - medical preparations.
1. If the water is in your aquarium dimmed, first check the operation of the filter or its power. Do not try to save on the filter for the aquarium, buying it for a smaller volume of the aquarium. The filter element may not cope with cleaning. waterand she will grow dim.
2. Also, the water may become cloudy with the so-called "launch" of a new aquarium. In this case, the new filter contains an insufficient number of bacteria that could neutralize the waste of fish. To solve this problem, add a few liters to your tank. water from another aquarium in which clear water.
3. If there is no possibility to get water from another aquarium, then you need to change the water more often, and then add dry bacteria and liquid enzymes to the water. These special tools can be purchased at the pet store.
4. The cause of turbidity can be poor-quality fish feed. This food immediately becomes heavy and falls to the bottom, the fish do not have time to pick it up. At the bottom of the feed begins to rot, and therefore the fish do not eat it. In addition, the water becomes cloudy and uneaten live food. Falling to the bottom, the worms burrow into the ground and die there. Therefore, give live food in small portions and make sure that the fish eat it completely.
5. Also water in aquarium will be muddy if you overfeed fish. Do not allow small children to feed the fish, or let them do it under your supervision. Not only clouding can result from overfeeding. water, but also small fish diseases.
6. If your aquarium little snails, the water will also become muddy over time, since the snails are the only bottom medics who eat the food that fell down and lies under a layer of stones. The more snails you have, the cleaner your tank will be.
7. Also, the water may become cloudy from dead fish. Carefully inspect the aquarium, look under the stones, in the underwater caves and decorations. If you find a fish, immediately remove it from water, and pour a special disinfectant solution into the aquarium. Just read the dosage dilution of such a drug, so as not to harm the remaining inhabitants of the aquarium.
The water in the aquarium is very turbid (white).
After a week, the water will clear, the bacterial foam will disappear. Fish, it is better to hold in another aquarium. Excess chemistry in the aquarium is not worth pouring. All of these drugs kill and beneficial bacteria. When natural balance is established, water becomes pure as a tear and no medication is required.
TetraAgua "CrystalWater" -does the aquarium
The water is crystal clear, quickly and reliably cleans the clouded water.
TetraAgua "AlguMin" - easily and quickly destroys all algae, quick action and natural prevention
And do not forget that the aquarium should be cleaned at least once a month.
Why is the water in the aquarium muddy !!!
Eyvind the Storm of the Fiords
In a newly-built aquarium, turbidity may occur due to the massive development of bacteria and unicellular organisms, which disappears after a few days, because these organisms do not have enough food.
Turbidity occurs due to careless infusion of water by a strong jet when it is replaced, which leads to the rise of small particles contained in the soil. After a while they will settle to the bottom, and the clouding will stop.
The water becomes turbid, milky white as a result of the mass reproduction of microorganisms on decaying, uneaten fish food. In that case, remove dirt and food residues and then use one of the following methods:
- replace 1/3 of fresh water, pour in a solution of bicillin-5 at the rate of 5000 IU per 1 l of water every day for 3 days and not feed the fish;
- remove the fish and put into the aquarium a large number of daphnia, which will feed on microorganisms. After successful completion of the operation, change the water several times, carefully cleaning the soil. Fish should be returned to the aquarium no earlier than one week after the last water change.
In case of failure to equip the aquarium, after disinfecting the aquarium, plants and soil.
Water becomes a greenish color as a result of reproduction of microscopic algae in a suspended position. Ways of struggle:
- Stop feeding the fish for a week, then feed it a little. Turn off the lights, do not make a partial change of water. Valuable plants are best removed. The operation may take several weeks;
- let daphnia into the aquarium (see above). The method does not help in the presence of algae Scenedesmus.
- put on the ground of the aquarium in a plastic box without a lid a few clams, which, passing water through, eat some types of algae.
In case of failure to equip the aquarium.
There is no need to feed the fish so often, from this the water will turn sour, turbidity will appear, and then mud. I feed once a day and not very much. I read that you can feed at all twice a week, the fish then pick up everything that was not eaten from all over. Plants also help them to maintain fullness. And yet, do not climb in the aquarium with your hands, you disturb the balance inside the aquarium. The filter should work around the clock, and CO-2 is needed for plants, otherwise they start to die off, and the process of rotting also makes the water turbid. The water temperature is sufficient 20 degrees, but do not cook the soup.
firstly, water needs to be defended for 3 days, secondly, the fish should be fed once a day, preferably in the evening, not a bedtime bed, thirdly, so often too it’s impossible to clean the aquarium, especially so big, you need to put a filter and less light , put a thermometer and monitor the water temperature! good luck
We have to feed the fish, and they parasites cocoa and grow. And the more they grow, the more they eat, the more they poop and circle.
With such a set of fish in such a small aquarium it is necessary to have an external filter of 300-500 liters and an internal one with a particle trap. And if we leave soms, we make the current strong, and remove the soil with the plants.