Aquarium

Replacing aquarium water

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Simple rules for changing aquarium water

Replacing water in an aquarium is a relatively simple and short process. Quite often, aquarists, especially beginners, think that replacement will take a lot of time and as a result there will be a mess in the apartment, a sea of ​​water and a lot of scattered things. But, fortunately, everything is not so sad. It is enough to acquire the necessary tools and know some rules.

Replacing water in a small aquarium

Note that a small aquarium means a capacity of not more than 200 liters.

What is required to replace the water?

  • Siphon with a pear;
  • Ball valve;
  • Bucket;
  • A piece of hose approximately one and a half meters long.

What is each item on the list for?

A siphon is a cylinder that directly connects to a hose. It is necessary for cleaning the soil. You can buy it in the nearest pet store at an affordable price. A self-made siphon can also be used for a change: to do this, cut the bottom of the bottle, up to one and a half liters in volume, and attach a hose to the neck.

The pear is a non-return valve made of rubber, which, when pressed, expels air from the hose. This way it contributes to filling the aquarium with water.

You can not use a pear. Instead, you can either initiate the mouth water supply (but this is not a very hygienic way), or use the following technique. So, you need to turn off the tap at the opposite (second) end of the hose and fill it with water by approximately half or a little more with the help of scooping it with a siphon. Then open the water tap, the water independently merges directly into the bucket. After filling the container, it is best to turn off the tap and empty the bucket. Next you need to substitute the bucket again and open the water tap.

A bucket is needed in order to fill in fresh water. It is desirable that the bucket had a spout, since water is supplied with the help of a bucket through the top. A bucket with a spout, in addition, will help avoid spills and other unpleasant consequences of replacement.

Estimated time: 10-15 minutes. It is possible that the first water change will take more time, but then, having worked it out, you will spend a minimum amount of time.

Large aquarium: how to change the water

An experienced aquarist would answer this question like this: replacing water in a large aquarium is a process that is even simpler than in a small aquarium. What is needed? Siphon with a pear, a hose, but it must be longer to reach the bathroom.

The back end of the hose should be lowered into the sink. You can make a loop with which the hose is fixed to the tap. Fingers need to pinch the hose specifically below the water level and with the help of scooping fill the top piece with water. Then a simple movement - let go, and the water begins to merge.

Replacing water in a large aquarium can also be done with a choke. It is required to connect to the tap for fresh fluid intake. If you fill in separated water, it is better to use a pump for pumping water into the aquarium.

Partial or full replacement?

It's time to make the next replacement of water in the aquarium. But how to determine whether it should be full or partial? When addressing this issue are taken into account:

  • condition of the aquarium;
  • filtration level;
  • the number of substitutions during the month or during another period;
  • the use of chemical compounds.

In the event that a partial replacement is carried out every week, then changing it again, more than 10% of the volume is not required. This allows you to refresh the water in the aquarium, remove accumulated organic compounds, remove excess nutrients, stabilize ph.

If a partial replacement was made once every two weeks, then you can either change 10% of the liquid, or, which is better, change 20%. Such a substitution solves the problem of increasing the concentration of chemical compounds or fertilizers. In some cases, it can be recommended to change even 30%, for example, if additional fertilization is carried out, carbon dioxide is supplied, the light day has increased, etc.

The aquarium can be very dirty, what to do in such a situation? It is necessary to carry out an urgent partial replacement of water for at least 30% of the volume, as well as to eliminate rot, remnants of food, garbage. The question may naturally arise: why is not a complete replacement suitable? The fact is that an aquarium is a biosystem, and water is one of the most important components of its constancy. Sharp water changes - stress for aquarium dwellers. It is enough to replace 30%, the quality of the remaining water will improve the bacteria.

Another special case - water pollution from the use of medicines. As a rule, recommendations on the replacement of water are contained in the instructions for a particular medication. But if they are absent, then it must be remembered that the drug acts within 1-2 days, after - its presence in the water becomes meaningless and even harmful to the aquarium. Do I need a complete replacement of water? No, even in this case it is not worth resorting to such drastic measures. It is better to replace 50% of the volume of the aquarium. The goal will be achieved: the concentration of the drug will decrease, and the constancy of the aquarium will not be violated.

How often to change the water?

Aquarian inhabitants can be accustomed to a certain frequency of water changes. But this does not mean that you can not follow the recommendations at all.

Partial replacement of water can be carried out at least twice a month for 20-30% of the volume. During the period between these water changes, a certain amount of waste products, organic acids, tannins, etc., accumulates. The ph of water also changes. The aquarium needs to change its performance, for which water is replaced. But it is important to understand that fish, plants get used to certain environmental conditions. With dramatic changes in these conditions, the inhabitants are under stress. They will survive one traumatic situation, but if it turns into a system, then arthropods, then fish, after the plant, can begin to die.

The frequency may be different, but still not advised to change the water more than once a week. A weekly water change of 10% is called optimal. Such a replacement is almost not felt by plants, fish.

And a few more tips:

  • the best option for small aquariums (up to 50 liters) is a partial weekly water change;
  • When using medications, determine the frequency of substitution in accordance with the instructions.

As you can see, water replacement is not the most difficult task. Say more: and not the most troublesome. It is enough to carry out the correct substitution once and remember the rules for subsequent replacements. Good luck!

How and when to change the water in the aquarium

Water for aquarium fish should be maintained in a constant composition, which will regulate the amount of organic impurities in it. Biological equilibrium can be achieved through filtration and regular water renewal. Proper renewal of water in an aquarium with fish is the key to their health and good life, because this procedure preserves the mini-ecosystem of the home nursery.

Types of replacement in an artificial reservoir

Replacing water in an aquarium is an indispensable component of its content. There are 2 types of water changes - partial change and full change.

  1. Partial replacement in a freshwater aquarium maintains the biological balance of the aquatic environment, despite the often changing composition of the fluid. Before changing the water, from the moment of its first launch, you need to wait two months. Correctly update the water 1-2 times a week, no more than 20-30% of the total. It is often dangerous to change water - it usually leads to deterioration of water quality and neutralization of beneficial microflora.

See how to make a partial replacement of water in the aquarium.

  1. Complete replacement of water is needed as a last resort - when all the aquarium fish are sick. One fish can be quarantined, in the case of disease of all residents of the nursery you want to change all the liquid. There are a number of drugs that help cure ailment, but they contain chemicals that pollute water, after which it will be unsuitable for life. In this case, a complete replacement of water is often a necessary measure, since even drugs cannot completely destroy the pathogenic microbes. Change all the water you need with a special device - aquarium hose, which is on the shelves of pet stores. When completely replacing the hose with a hose, siphon the bottom, cleaning it from contamination, and the glass container is washed with a special liquid to remove plaque. If you need to fight the disease - you will have to bring all the details back to normal, all the water updates are not enough.
  • Attention!

A complete water change is required during a scheduled restart.

Aquarium water: how to defend?

How many checks are needed to normalize the water in the aquarium? It rarely happens that tap water does not contain chlorine and phosphate compounds, and if so, then this is a lot of luck. You can purchase litmus paper at the pet store, using it to measure the acidity and hardness of water from the tap. Water in a small aquarium is easier to put in order than in a large one. Special components that increase or decrease water hardness can be found in stores or in your own home. In aquariums with a volume of more than 150 liters, you can replace 20% of the water yourself, without prior preparation.

How much time to defend the water? Everything depends on the type of fish that will settle in the reservoir, on their requirements, on the whimsical nature of aquatic plants - after all, the fish often live with plants, and they are almost indispensable. If it does not meet the pH level of 7.0, then it can be defended for 3-4 days until the chlorine and phosphate compounds evaporate.

Aquarium water: what you need to know about the big replacement?

A large water change is the renewal of a significant amount of fluid that occurs in stages over a period of 5-7 days. It is necessary to change such water when there is a need to lower the level of compounds accumulated in the water. Often after a big replacement, the fish become healthy and active. However, changing the contents of the reservoir is not recommended very often.


In a 100-liter aquarium with a small amount of vegetation, you can make the following replacement:

Drain 80 liters of old and add 40 liters of new water, add another 40 liters in a day. But this option is unacceptable for reservoirs where there is a lot of vegetation and fish. In this case, it is better to update 60% of the volume once.

Recommendations for replacing in saltwater aquariums

Sometimes you need to change the water in an aquarium with sea water, if it is in the house. Replacement should occur at elevated concentrations of nitrates and nitrites. Updating a saltwater aquarium does not go as it does in a freshwater aquarium. Properly used with distilled salt water or distilled through reverse osmosis liquid.

Whimsical hydrobionts and sea fish will not be able to live in tap water. Without prior, multi-phase filtering, it only hurts sentient beings. Replacing water 1 time per month (10-20%) of the total volume of the reservoir is not particularly effective with heavy pollution. In saltwater aquariums it is better to replace a large amount of water.

See how to run a saltwater aquarium.

How to know that it is time to update the aquatic environment in a salt water tank?

How much time must pass to have to renew the aquatic environment in the marine tank again? The first is to check periodically observations and tests using reagents. The pure water dissolves salts that contain: MgSO4x7H20, sodium chloride, potassium bromide, MgCl2x6H2O, SrCl2x7H20, sodium carbonate, calcium chloride, potassium chloride, boric acid, sodium hydrosulfite (acid salt), sodium fluoride. These components are part of the artificial sea salt, which must be added over 3 days gradually, one after the other. But this option is very difficult for beginners. In order not to harm the fish and plants, there is a second way - to monitor the quality of the tank (whether there are greens in the water, foam, haze, droppings), its purity and smell.

Also make sure that the quality of the filter has not changed (both mechanical and biological). High-quality filtration prevents severe contamination, so there will be no need to completely change the fluid in the pond. A good filter restores the biological balance of the nursery, making it suitable for further use.

Full replacement of water in the aquarium

Complete replacement of water in an aquarium is extremely undesirable, so it should be carried out only according to a special need - for example, if the aquarium needs to be repaired or disinfected.

In order to drain all the water, prepare a bailout, where you need to catch all the fish - it will become a temporary aquarium for them. If there is no spare aquarium, you can use a bucket or basin. In case there are a lot of small fish, make them the right aeration.

If possible, all plants are also removed from the aquarium. If the reason for the complete replacement lies in plant diseases, then they need to be disposed of, and after changing the water, plant others.

Once you have removed all the fish and plants, you can begin to drain the aquarium. Take a bucket or basin, which will pour water, bring it to the aquarium. To complete the replacement of water in the aquarium, first drain all the old water with a hose into a basin or bucket.

As soon as the aquarium is empty, it must be washed, sanitized and dried, and then filled with new water. Remember that after that the ecosystem should be normalized and the balance should be adjusted, therefore in the first 2-3 days a bacterial outbreak will occur, which will pass by itself. The water will grow cloudy, but as soon as it becomes transparent again, you can plant the plants, and it is better to start the fish in 7-9 days.

Remember that to abuse the full replacement of water is not worth it. If, for example, one fish died, this is not a reason for panic; if several of them are sick, then they need to be transplanted and tried to cure; and only if there is an outbreak of any infection, and drugs do not help, then you need to change the ecological environment, that is, water.

Replacing the water in an aquarium is sometimes considered the most effective tool in the fight against bacteria, because they do not react to drugs due to their protective mechanism. But still, before changing the water, think more than once - this is a huge stress for fish.

To change the water in the aquarium, instead of a hose, you can use a vacuum or electric pump. The simplest device is a siphon, which consists of a narrow tube and a cylinder. With its help you can clean the bottom and walls of the aquarium from the plaque and food debris.

Electric pumps have recently become quite popular, but they are used to pump water from small containers, and in other cases it is better to use a regular siphon.

How often to change the water in the aquarium?

The question of the frequency of changing (or changing) aquarium water very often causes controversy both between amateurs of the aquarium business and in the community of professionals. For everyone, however, it is completely obvious that the chemical composition and balance of the aquatic environment is very important for fish and other animals. Consequently, substitution should not dramatically change the conditions of their usual existence.

Why completely change the water?

Full replacement is done in exceptional cases, and for this there must be good reasons, namely:

  • progressive water bloom caused by the rapid growth of green algae;
  • the appearance of fungal mucus on the walls of the aquarium and decorative elements;
  • severe contamination and acidification of the soil substrate;
  • infectious disease of fish or plants, caused by the introduction of infections into the aquatic system.
Full replacement of the aquatic environment is almost always a negative impact on the aquarium living creatures.

The fact is that in fresh water it falls into the atmosphere of an unformed ecosystem. In addition, even despite the preparation of new water, its parameters will still be different from the usual.

It should be understood that such a replacement always leads to a strong stress of ornamental fish until they die. Vegetation also responds to new conditions: leaves of plants can turn white after moving to fresh water.

Thus, a complete replacement is a restart of the aquarium, when the creation of an ecosystem begins anew.

Partial water changes: the meaning and content

Replace the water in the aquarium is necessary. Partially. And here specialists have almost no disagreements. Although there are owners of domestic water bodies, who argue that the aquarium can work for years with the same water. It is believed that an ideal balance can be achieved when fish, plants, technical devices for filtering and maintaining water quality work in concert, creating a balanced ecosystem that is as close as possible to natural conditions.

Indeed, there is information that some owners of ornamental fish do not produce substitutions for years. But if you carefully read the data, it turns out that we are talking about sparsely populated aquariums, where the waste of guests is quite insignificant.

In all other cases, it is necessary to replace the water, since a completely closed environment does not live long. In nature, it is impossible to meet a reservoir where there would be no flow and at least a partial renewal of water. Otherwise, the reservoir degrades and dies.

What is the meaning of the substitution? In simple terms, it mimics the natural environment where there is water circulation. Even the most insignificant. The fact is that in an artificial reservoir harmful substances are inevitably formed - toxins and nitrates, which appear in the process of life activity of living beings and plants.The decrease in the concentration of such substances in the aquarium is what the main meaning of the partial substitution is.

It is necessary to note that if, for example, 1/5 or even ¼ of the old water is replaced with fresh water, the balance of the established ecological environment will be partially disturbed. But these violations are not critical. It will take one or two days, and the balance will recover by itself.

Replacing half the volume of the aquarium ecosystem will process much longer. It will take 2 weeks until the lost balance is restored, and during this time some fish that are sensitive to changes in water parameters may even die.


How often should the aquarium water be changed?

Many experts argue that this frequency depends on the age of the aquarium. It is no secret that in his life he goes through all stages of existence: the aquatic system is new, young, mature and old.

Substitution in just running pond. When the new aquarium is launched, experts recommend not to interfere with the state of the aquatic environment for 2-3 months. At this time, the formation of the internal ecological mini-system takes place, and intervention is permissible only in extreme cases.

Substitution in a new aquarium. After this period, when the young aquatic system was basically formed, you can start replacing part of the water once a month. The recommended dose is not more than 20% of the total. It is necessary to consider the size of the aquarium. So, if in a 200-liter container it is possible to fill in tap water, then for a 30-liter jar 6 liters of water must be defended for two days. Such procedures should be combined with cleaning the soil (if necessary) and the walls of the aquarium.

Substitution in a mature aquatic system. About six months later, the aquarium habitat enters a mature phase. Replacements should be made in the same dose and with the same frequency, with simultaneous cleaning of the aquarium. If the ecosystem is stable, then you should not disturb it once more with your intervention.

Replacing water in an old aquarium. Some experts say that after 1.5-2 years the aquarium is aging. For its rejuvenation, it is recommended to temporarily switch to another water replacement schedule - 2 times a month. Cleaning the soil after draining part of the water becomes mandatory, and if there is such a need, the soil can be gently removed and rinsed thoroughly. Frequent water changes are advised to do for two months, after which the rejuvenation of the entire system should occur, and the aquarium will function stably for another year or two.

Replacing water in a marine aquarium

This procedure is slightly different from the freshwater version. The most important thing is that the water should be prepared, and ordinary tap water is not suitable for substitution (although some aquarists use it in small doses).

It is better to use distilled water, which is added to the finished salt according to the instructions. Such salts are sold in pet stores, their choice is quite wide. Suffice it to mention the salt compositions of RED SEA CORAL (Israel) or Tetra Marine (Germany).

The frequency and volume of sea water being replaced are subject to heated debate by professionals. Various options are discussed, but most owners of saltwater aquariums talk about a 25 percent dose of the replaced aqua. What all professionals and amateurs are unanimous about is the need to replace it based on the specific conditions and parameters of the marine artificial reservoir.

Water changes always help to prolong the life of the aquarium ecosystem. And here the most important factor is not only the volume of replaced water, but also the regularity of this operation.

Video on how to change the water in the aquarium:

How to change the water in a small aquarium :: how to care for fish in a small aquarium :: Aquarium fish

How to change the water in a small aquarium

Mini-aquariums - an attractive interior decoration. But unlike large tanks, equipped with all necessary equipment, there are some problems with care. If you follow the basic rules, including the replacement of water, you can avoid the flowering of the aquarium and create fairly tolerable conditions for the fish.

The question "opened a pet shop. Business is not going. What to do?" - 2 answers

You will need

  • - soft distilled water;
  • - net capacity;
  • - bucket;
  • - scraper.

Instruction

1. It is believed that a small aquarium is easier to clean than a large one. However, this is the first misconception of inexperienced aquarists. It requires more frequent replacement of water, because the products of decomposition of fish waste are accumulated here most of all. In addition, intensive plant growth can cause a lot of trouble.

2. The water in a small aquarium should not be completely changed. It is enough to replace up to 1/5 of the total volume. This should be done quite often - once every 3-4 days.

3. Replacement water should only be soft, room temperature, so you should have a constant supply. Only tap water from clean dishes that should be used only for this purpose. To defend the liquid must be at least three days.

4. Replacing water in a small aquarium is not difficult. Calculate the required quantity for replacement. For example, in an aquarium with a capacity of 10 liters, it is necessary to change 2 liters (1/5 of the total volume).

5. Scoop out the required amount of water with a special scoop with a long handle. Scrub the walls of the aquarium and add fresh soft water. Then collect water in a clean dish and leave it to stand until the next procedure.

6. The water in the mini-tanks evaporates very quickly. Check its level regularly and top up if necessary.

7. Fully change the water in the aquarium should be as rare as possible, because it violates the biological equilibrium. However, this must be done once a year to transplant plants and clean the walls of the aquarium and filter.

8. To replace the water completely, remove the fish and place them in a jar for a while. Drain fluid with a hose. Remove excess algae. Clean the rocks and walls of the aquarium.

9. Then pour the settled water. Add bacteria and let the aquarium stand for a couple of days, then run the fish into it.

note

For dwelling in a small space, choose guppies, gourami and tetra. These fish feel pretty good in mini-aquariums. Also in the pond you can settle a cockerel, neons look beautiful. If the fish have grown to a rather large size, they need to be deposited in a larger tank.

Helpful advice

Very impressive look and feel good in a small aquarium, not only fish, but also other marine and freshwater inhabitants, such as shrimp.

Muddy aquarium: from what and why the water becomes cloudy, what to do


PROBLEMS OF THE MUTT AQUARIUM

problems of whitish, green, brown water

Turbidity of the aquarium is a frequent occurrence in new, just-launched aquariums. However, "aquarium murk" does not bypass the already established "old" reservoirs. On the Internet, a lot has been written on this issue. There are lots of articles and even talmudov about the turbid state of aquarium water. However, a significant drawback of these articles, in my opinion, is the lack of practical recommendations for eliminating turbidity and its causes. Yes, theory is good, but what to do? How to get rid of turbidity? What preparations should be used in a given situation, what actions should the aquarist take to make the aquarium beautiful and the water truly clean?
We will try to answer all these questions in this article.
So, the reasons that the aquarium water has become muddy are:
- mechanical factors;
- biological factors;
MUTT AQUARIUM: MECHANICAL FACTORS
theory, reasons, ways to eliminate
Aquarium water is a closed ecosystem, where there are various artificial elements that recreate the natural conditions of fish habitat. As well as in nature, water in the aquarium may cloud due to the large number of small suspended particles that were lifted from the bottom of the aquarium, separated from the scenery, formed as a result of the livelihood of aquatic organisms (all aquatic inhabitants).
It can be said that the mechanical clouding of the aquarium is trivial, in fact, it is the dirt and debris of the aquarium, which arose as a result of laziness or proper, improper care for the aquarium.
Let's take a closer look at the reasons for this action:
Errors made when starting the aquarium. Usually the launch of the first, new, just bought aquarium, occurs in a euphoric state. A beginner in a hurry puts the aquarium in a hurry, pours in the ground there, sets the decor and fills it all with water.
Alas, such a rush, later does not well affect the appearance of the aquarium. Water appears in the water, which has not previously been washed away or washed from the scenery and the ground. This is especially true of the ground. Before you lay it on the bottom of the aquarium, it should be washed thoroughly and more than once. Otherwise, dust and small particles of soil will "spread out" throughout the aquarium.
Not the right or inappropriate care. As a result of the vital activity of fish, plants, crustaceans and other inhabitants of the aquarium, waste is generated: feces, food remains, dead organics.
If proper, regular maintenance or filtering of aquarium water is not properly set up in the aquarium, all these residues accumulate. And eventually they begin to swim throughout the reservoir. Moreover, the residues gradually decompose, which gives prerequisites for biological clouding.

The use of "not correct" decorations in the design of the aquarium.
As the decoration of the aquarium can not use bulk, soluble and coloring objects. All these objects will sooner or later be washed out or dissolved by water, which will lead not only to a violation of the aesthetic appearance, but also threatens with chemical poisoning of all living things in the aquarium.

Ways to eliminate mechanical turbidity in the aquarium

Naturally the first is a thorough cleaning of the aquarium with the replacement? aquarium water to fresh, plus siphon aquarium bottom and cleaning the walls of the aquarium. Extract all the "bad" decorations.
The second is the enhanced filtration of aquarium water. The existing filter is cleaned and washed, re-installed. Plus, another new filter is installed or a more powerful filter is bought to replace the old one.
Tip: Mechanical turbidity in the aquarium is very fine. Under the influence of any oscillation (excitement), it sweeps up and heaves. Before the general cleaning of the aquarium, it is recommended to turn off aeration and filtration in the aquarium for 2-3 hours, a little more. In the absence of generated water currents, all small particles floating in the water will gradually sink to the bottom and aquarium decorations. After that, they will be easy to collect siphon.

Preparations eliminating mechanical turbidity in an aquarium


Aquarium coal - Absorbent, perfectly coping with pollution of the aquarium. Coal is poured after cleaning the aquarium in the filter compartment and held there for two weeks. After that, a new portion of coal is removed and, if necessary, filled up.
TetraAqua CrystalWater (drug TM "Tetra") - binds small particles that are in the water and combines them into larger ones, which are then either removed through a filter, or are deposited on the bottom. Such a course of the cleaning process is guaranteed for any kind of filter.
If small particles still float in the water, these may be food remnants, with over-feeding, or particles of soil that have risen after changing water.
The product acts on both the physical and chemical levels. The first results are noticeable 2-3 hours after application. After 6-8 hours, the water becomes clean, and after 6-12 hours - crystal clear. Dosage: 100 ml per 200 l of aquarium water.
Tetra Crystal Water is recommended even with a slight clouding of the aquarium, it is very useful to use the drug before the photo session of the aquarium. In practice, the period of complete water purification can stretch for 2 days. Most likely it depends on the degree of pollution of the reservoir.

Sera aquaria clear
(similar to the previous drug, but from TM "Sulfur") - a means for removing contaminants from aquarium water, quickly, simply and reliably connects the "dregs" of any origin in aquariums.
Bound "turbidity" is removed using a filter installed in your aquarium within a few minutes. Sera Aquaria Clear - acts biologically and does not contain harmful active substances, effectively removes contaminants from the aquarium water.
MUTT AQUARIUM: BIOLOGICAL FACTORS
theory, reasons, ways to eliminate
Aquarium water is not sterile. Even when the water visually looks perfectly clean, it contains various microorganisms and fungi that are not visible to the human eye. And this is the normal state of affairs.
In our world, everything is interconnected; everything that was invented by God is not superfluous and is needed for something. Fungi and bacteria (good or bad) in aquarium water play a crucial role for all other inhabitants of the aquarium. Fungi are involved in the decomposition of dead organics, bacteria recycle ammonia, nitrites and nitrates (aquarium poisons), etc.
Now imagine what happens if this process is disrupted? That's right, there will be dregs! Such a violation in akvaraimistiki called "biobalance violation" or "biological equilibrium."
By the time of flow, the biobalance violation can be divided into:
Violations in the "young" - a new, just-launched aquarium;
Violations in the "old" - well-established aquarium;
MUTTY YOUNG AQUARIUM

dimmed water in a newly launched aquarium

In many sources on this issue it is very briefly written: "Do not worry, the clouding of your aquarium will pass by itself in 3-5 days." And the point! After reading this, the aquarium novice exhales, says "Fuv, thank God" and calms down on it.
But, with this position we can agree only partially. Yes, indeed the first 3-5 days of the newly launched aquarium will be muddy. Then whitish cloudiness, similar to fog or colostrum (sometimes with a brownish or greenish tinge) disappears by itself. But, as mentioned above, “aquarium water is not sterile,” and the absence of turbidity does not indicate that the problem has been solved.
What happens in a young aquarium? Why does the water in the aquarium grow turbid?
In short, in the aquarium there is a setting of biological balance. Namely, there is a rapid growth of bacteria, fungi and other unicellular microorganisms. At the same time, products of life of fish and other inhabitants of the reservoir accumulate in the aquarium. Not joining of the two leads to their excessiveness, which is manifested visually in the form of turbidity of water. Gradually, the process is aligned and the biological chain closes. In other words, the amount of food (dead organics, fish food residues, feces) is equal to the number of colonies of beneficial bacteria, and of fungi, which they eat and decompose into smaller “elements”.
Based on the above, we can agree that the clouding of a young aquarium is not so scary. But, it can be prevented! Or rather help the aquarium tune faster. How? We will talk about this a little later.
MUTT OLD AQUARIUM

clouding of an established aquarium

If the clouding of a young aquarium is forgivable to an aquarist, then dregs in the old pond are his sin! Violation of the biobalance in well-established water bodies is often due to oversight, due to the lack of basic care, due to ignorance or unwillingness to know what happens in the aquarium. The exculpatory causes of the clouding of the old aquarium include “whiteness after the treatment of fish”, that is, when aquarium chemistry and preparations were used in the aquarium. Like any "medicine" aquarium chemistry has side effects, in particular the violation of biological equilibrium.
What happens in the old aquarium? Why does the water grow cloudy in it?
And almost the same thing happens as in a young aquarium. But, if I may say so, in regressive order.
To make it even clearer to you, let's break the aquarium biological chain into links. NITROGEN CYCLE is as follows.
"DIRT AND TRASH"
(remnants of dead organics, fish food, feces, etc.)
decompose under the action of bacteria in
AMMONIA / AMMONIUM
(the strongest poison, destructive for all living things)
under the action of another group of bacteria is decomposed into
NITRITES, and then NITRATES
(less dangerous, but also poisons)
further decompose to
GAS CONDITION
and out of the aquarium water
As you understand, this process is multistage and has its own nuances.
For those that want to study it in more detail, I recommend to go to the forum thread NITRITES AND NITRATES IN THE AQUARIUM. And now imagine what will happen in the old aquarium, if one of the links, for one reason or another, falls out? That's right - dregs! Sorry for the tautology))) Unlike the dregs in a young aquarium, the turbidity in the old aquarium not only spoils the appearance of the aquarium, but is also very dangerous. The following happens: under the influence of non-excreting poisons, the fish’s immunity weakens, their defense mechanisms weaken and become unable to resist the “harmful” - pathogenic bacteria and fungi (which are always in the water). As a result, the fish gets sick and if you do not conduct treatment in time, the fish dies. Thus, we can conclude that the violation of biological balance is the primary cause of the death of aquarium fish. In fairness, it should be said that the saturation of aquarium water with excess ammonia, nitrite and nitrate - can occur without turbidity of the aquarium water. What is even worse, because the enemy is invisible.

HOW TO GET RID OF BIOLOGICALLY DISTURBED AQUARIUM

or how to set up a biobalance
First of all, you need to make regular cleaning in the aquarium, do not overfeed the fish.Remember that only the constant and correct replacement of aquarium water to fresh water is an effective way to get rid of poisons.
ATTENTION: To replace the water in a young aquarium, in order to get rid of turbidity is not necessary. In the first month, the water in a young aquarium generally needs to be tried less often and in smaller volumes. Water should "infuse."
Drugs that eliminate the biological clouding of the aquarium - preparations setting biobalance:
Almost all aquarium brands in their arsenal have a line of products that customize the biological balance.
The essence of these drugs can be divided into those that:
- neutralize poisons (nitrites and nitrates);
- promote the growth of colonies of beneficial denitrifying bacteria or are a ready concentrate of these bacteria.
To achieve maximum effect, you should use these drugs in a complex. Especially with a flash of nitrite and nitrate.
Preparations that neutralize nitrites and nitrates Zeolite is an ion exchanger, in fact, as well as aquarium coal is an absorbent. But, unlike coal, which is not able to “tighten” nitrites and nitrates, zeolite copes with it perfectly. Zeolite is used not only in aquarism, it is widely used in other areas of human life. Therefore, it can even be bought by weight.
Zeolites are a large group of similar in composition and properties of minerals, aqueous aluminosilicates of calcium and sodium from the subclass of frame silicates, with glass or pearlescent gloss, known for their ability to give and reabsorb water, depending on temperature and humidity. Another important property of zeolites is the ability to ion exchange - they are able to selectively release and reabsorb various substances, as well as exchange cations.
Aquarium preparations containing zeolite.

Fluval zeo-carb - a filler for filters zeolite + absorbent carbon.
This is a combination of Fluval activated carbon and Fluval Ammonia Remover. Working together, these highly effective means of active filtration, which eliminate pollution, odors and color, and at the same time, remove toxic ammonia:
- Protects an aquarium from toxic ammonia.
- At the same time, coal adsorbs waste materials, dyes and drugs from water.
- Reduces the phosphate content in water.
The combination of the two products frees up space in your filter for other types of filtering.
Aquael ZeoMAX Plus - zeolite in the form of small crumb, removes ammonia and phosphates, stabilizes pH.
Due to its chemical structure, it provides excellent absorption of organic pollutants, nitrogenous compounds and phosphates that are toxic to fish, which are a consequence of the metabolism of aquarium inhabitants.
Zeolite should not be left in the filter for more than one month.
For more information about the advantages and disadvantages of zeolite, see the forum thread "Nitrites and nitrates", namely HERE.
The drug acting at the chemical level.

Sera toxivec - a drug that at the chemical level instantly eliminates NO2NO3. Since this is chemistry, it is recommended to use it as a preventive measure and once.
Immediately removes hazardous contaminants, life-threatening fish and filter bacteria, from aquarium water. Equal effectiveness against different types of pollutants makes this tool especially valuable.
Sera Toxivec instantly eliminates ammonia / ammonia and nitrites. Because of this, it prevents their transition into nitrates and helps prevent the growth of irritating algae.
In addition, Sera Тoxivec eliminates aggressive chlorine from tap water. Also effective as a disinfectant disinfectant and medication remover.
At the same time, it is capable of even more: it binds toxic heavy metals such as copper, zinc, lead, and even mercury. Therefore, these pollutants can not harm the fish and beneficial bacteria in the biofilter. Due to this, the frequency of water changes can be reduced.
If necessary, for example, with particularly high levels of contamination, an increase in the applied dose of the agent is allowed. Repeated depositing is allowed in one or two hours.
Drugs that promote the growth of beneficial colonies
bacteria or are ready concentrate bacteria
Tetra Bactozym - This conditioner, accelerating the process of stabilization of biological equilibrium, in the filter and aquarium. Suitable for fresh and sea water.
Tetra Bactozym accelerates the conversion of nitrites to nitrates and contains a concentrate of enzymes and substances that contribute to the development of beneficial aquarium microflora. It makes water crystal clear and provides enzymatic decomposition of dissolved organics. The use of an air conditioner reduces the damage done to the beneficial microflora when changing water and washing the filters, and restores microorganisms that are weakened or damaged by the use of medicines.
We draw your attention to the fact that biostarters contain various types of cultures of bacteria and enzymes. Too high or low temperatures reduce their effectiveness.
Tetra NitranMinus Perls (granules) - for reliable reduction of nitrate in water. The drug eliminates the nutritional element necessary for the development of algae, which allows for a long time to improve water quality, reducing, thereby, the need for care of the aquarium.
- lowering the level of nitrates by 12 months by biological means.
- significantly algae growth is restrained.
- just buried in the ground.
Tetra NitrateMinus (liquid conditioner) - biological reduction of nitrates, calculated for 12 months. Improves water quality. Interferes with formation and growth of seaweed (duckweed). Designed for all types of marine and freshwater aquariums.
Convenient dosing: 2.5 ml of new liquid NitrateMinus for every 10 liters of water, once a week.
Like NitrateMinus in granules (Pearls), liquid NitrateMinus facilitates the processing of nitrates into nitrogen and lowers carbonate hardness. A decrease in nitrates by 60 mg / l leads to an increase in carbonate hardness of approximately 3 KH. With regular use of the drug after replacing water, the pH of the water stabilizes and the risk of falling acidity decreases.
Fully compatible, NitrateMinus is based on biological processes in an aquarium and is completely safe for fish. It combines perfectly with TetraAqua EasyBalance and other Tetra products.
Sera bio nitrivec (Sera bio nitrivek) - A preparation for quick launch of the aquarium. Special blend of various high-quality cleansing bacteria for aquariums. Sera nitrivek prevents the accumulation of ammonium and nitrite. The use of Sera nitrivek makes it possible to place the fish in the newly created aquarium already 24 hours after application. When entering the water bacteria
begin to act immediately. The resulting effect is stored in
For a long time, giving a crystal water aquarium water.
There are other drugs of identical orientation. I recommend sharing Tetra Bactozym and Tetra NitranMinus Perls.
And when using NO2NO3 flashes, use zeolite.


How else can you achieve a “good biobalance”?


- Biological equilibrium is more stable if live aquarium plants are present in the aquarium. Plants partially absorb the decay elements of living organics and thereby reduce their concentration. The more aquarium plants, the better. I recommend to read the article. AQUARIUM PLANTS ALL FOR BEGINNERS.
- Aquarium snails and fish "orderlies" will help you in cleaning the aquarium. "Squad" of the same coil snails copes with dying leaves and organic matter. Fish nurses also help in this matter. The majority of aquarium catfish can be attributed to them: corridors, antsistrusy, girinoheiliusy, aquatic sequences, thoracacums, and many others.
- It is advisable to use multistage filtration of aquarium water. And also use other methods that improve water quality, for example, phyto filtration.

Useful video about muddy water in the aquarium



How often do I need to change the water in the aquarium and how? Fish in bags?

Svetlana Stepanova

How often should I change the water in the aquarium?
After the aquarium is planted with plants and populated with fish, an amateur should strive to maintain. It has a steady regime. For the normal development of fish and the prevention of a number of diseases, a certain chemical composition and biological equilibrium, maintained for many years, are necessary in water.
Water should be refilled as it evaporates, cleans the glass, the aquarium soil only partially, no more than 1/5 - 1/3 of the volume of the aquarium. Moreover, even a partial replacement of water should not drastically change both its gas and salt composition.
In aquarium fish farming, complete replacement of old water is extremely rare. Even with the massive death of fish it does not completely change. When completely replacing the water, it is necessary to be sure that the new water meets all the hydrochemical parameters required for the existing fish species.
Completely change the water in the aquarium in exceptional cases: when introducing unwanted microorganisms, the appearance of fungal mucus, rapid flowering of water that does not stop when the aquarium is darkened temporarily, and when the soil is very dirty. From the complete change of water plants suffer: there is discoloration and premature dying of the leaves. If the aquarium is biologically correctly populated, then plants, fish and bacteria in the soil and water can replace a good filter.
A common opinion among novice aquarists about the need for frequent water changes as a prerequisite for the normal maintenance of exotic fish is deeply mistaken. Frequent changes of water in the aquarium can cause illness and even death of fish.
In most cases, a water change — although a regular change of 1/5 of the water in an aquarium is always desirable — does not have a living stage of a room pond. This life in an aquarium, depending on our ability and desire, can last from several days to 10-15 years.
What does that require?
Replacing water by 1/5, up to certain limits, of course, (topping up with non-living tap water) will shake the equilibrium state of the environment, but after two days it will be restored. The larger the aquarium, the greater the resistance in it against our inept interventions.
Replacing half of the medium will break the equilibrium stability, some fish and plants may die, but after a week the other homeostatism of the medium will again be restored.
Replacing all the water with a plumbing can completely destroy the environment, and everything will have to start over.
* If you decide to start an aquarium, and have not dealt with it before, but there is a desire to arrange everything not hastily and somehow, start with a small reservoir of 100-200 liters. It is just as easy to establish biological balance, to form a living environment, as in a small one, and to destroy it with its inept actions will be much more difficult than in an aquarium with a capacity of 20-30 liters.
In an aquarium, we do not contain aquatic animals and plants, but aquatic habitats, and the main task of an aquarist is to maintain an equilibrium, healthy state of this particular environment, and not its individual inhabitants, because if the environment is healthy, then the inhabitants of this environment will be well . The habitat in the period of its formation (when plants were planted in the ground, and a week later the first fish were launched) is extremely unstable, therefore it is strictly prohibited to interfere with the work of the aquarium at this time. What do we have to do?
Within two months, it is impossible to replace water: what's the point, instead of semidiving water, which is just turning into residential water, to bring in a sterile water supply again? In a large aquarium, changing water will slow down the formation of the habitat, while in a small aquarium this intervention will cause a catastrophe and everything will have to start over.

Vitaly Stoykov

There is no need to change the water in the aquarium because there is a certain balance. Just when cleaning the aquarium, part of the water with the waste products of the fish is drained, and separated clean water is added to the aquarium.

Galina Emelianenko

fish in a basin of clean water and cover with something to not jump out (if on the aquarium cover plates lie above they will fit) and the water in the idale needs to be changed once a month, although everything depends on the aquarium and on what filter you have there or it is not =)

Elena Grigorieva

A complete change of water is made ONLY in extreme situations (for example, an infection is recorded in the aqua that requires similar radical measures), replacement (one third of the volume of aqua) with simultaneous cleaning of the soil (siphon) is done every 7-10 days. I keep the aqua 5 years, did not change the water completely.

How many times to change the water in the aquarium

Yury Balashov

Ramazan, in a 20-liter aquarium of water is about 15-16 liters. It is necessary to replace, depending on the density of fish landing in 3-5-7 days, 10-15-20% of water. So consider that if you have overpopulation in an aquarium, then you need to change, for example, after 5 days, 20% water = 3 liters of settled water. temperature 1-2 * higher than in the aquarium. If everything is fine with the fish (in the sense of density), then 10-15% = 1.5-2 liters of water is enough once every 7-10 days. At the same time in the aquarium should grow a lot of plants, fish issued food, which will * eat for 1, a maximum of 2-3 minutes.
siphon
The main thing when changing the water of local residents is not to overlook!

Git + a

How often should I change the water in the aquarium?
After the aquarium is planted with plants and populated with fish, an amateur should strive to maintain a sustainable regime in it. For the normal development of fish and the prevention of a number of diseases, a certain chemical composition and biological equilibrium, maintained for many years, are necessary in water.
Water should be refilled as it evaporates, cleans the glass, the aquarium soil only partially, no more than 1/5 - 1/3 of the volume of the aquarium. Moreover, even a partial replacement of water should not drastically change both its gas and salt composition.
In aquarium fish farming, complete replacement of old water is extremely rare. Even with the massive death of fish it does not completely change. When completely replacing the water, it is necessary to be sure that the new water meets all the hydrochemical parameters required for the existing fish species.
Completely change the water in the aquarium in exceptional cases: when introducing unwanted microorganisms, the appearance of fungal mucus, rapid flowering of water that does not stop when the aquarium is darkened temporarily, and when the soil is very dirty. From the complete change of water plants suffer: there is discoloration and premature dying of the leaves. If the aquarium is biologically correctly populated, then plants, fish and bacteria in the soil and water can replace a good filter.
A common opinion among novice aquarists about the need for frequent water changes as a prerequisite for the normal maintenance of exotic fish is deeply mistaken. Frequent changes of water in the aquarium can cause illness and even death of fish.
In most cases, a water change — although a regular change of 1/5 of the water in an aquarium is always desirable — does not have a living stage of a room pond. This life in an aquarium, depending on our ability and desire, can last from several days to 10-15 years.
What does that require? Replacing water by 1/5, up to certain limits, of course, (topping up with non-living tap water) will shake the equilibrium state of the environment, but after two days it will be restored. The larger the aquarium, the greater the resistance in it against our inept interventions.
Replacing half of the medium will break the equilibrium stability, some fish and plants may die, but after a week the other homeostatism of the medium will again be restored.
Replacing all the water with a plumbing can completely destroy the environment, and everything will have to start over.
* If you decide to start an aquarium, and have not dealt with it before, but there is a desire to arrange everything not hastily and somehow, start with a small reservoir of 100-200 liters. It is just as easy to establish biological balance, to form a living environment, as in a small one, and to destroy it with its inept actions will be much more difficult than in an aquarium with a capacity of 20-30 liters.
In an aquarium, we do not contain aquatic animals and plants, but aquatic habitats, and the main task of an aquarist is to maintain an equilibrium, healthy state of this particular environment, and not its individual inhabitants, because if the environment is healthy, then the inhabitants of this environment will be well . The habitat in the period of its formation (when plants were planted in the ground, and a week later the first fish were launched) is extremely unstable, therefore it is strictly prohibited to interfere with the work of the aquarium at this time. What do we have to do?
Within two months, it is impossible to replace water: what's the point, instead of semidiving water, which is just turning into residential water, to bring in a sterile water supply again? In a large aquarium, changing water will slow down the formation of the habitat, while in a small aquarium this intervention will cause a catastrophe and everything will have to start over.
After two or three months, the emerging aquatic habitat in the aquarium will enter the youth stage. From this point until the complete reorganization of the aquarium, it is necessary to begin again to replace 1/5 of the volume of water once every 10 to 15 days, or monthly.

Complete replacement of water in the aquarium (10/01/2013)

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