Aquarium

Running a marine aquarium

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Marine Aquarium - we launch a competently photo video step-by-step description.

EQUIPMENT FOR THE MARINE AQUARIUM

The first important purchase will of course be the tank itself. Its shape can be different, most often it is a container with a base in the form of a square, a rectangle, less often forms with a convex front (viewing) wall occur. Displacement matters - it will take at least 200 liters, preferably 400 and more. Do not be tempted by 50 and 100-liters - sea animals in them get sick and die.

Most probably the main purchase will be an external canister filter. Experienced aquarists recommend Eheim 2260 or 2250 and Fluval 403 or 303. Special filler materials will also be needed, such as ceramic chips, coal and sponge.

Purchase a thermostat, a skimmer (a device for removing foam), as well as a pump or pump filter - this is a device for saturating water with oxygen, and in combination with a filter there is also a waste disposal mechanism. Be sure to arrange the grounding of the aquarium: buy a RCD (residual current device) and call an electrician who will correctly bring it out and connect it.

The next purchase is a stock of coal and salt, bacterial preparations, acidity tests, a simple hydrometer (a float that shows how dense the water is) and a siphon for cleaning the bottom.

If funds allow, take another UV lamp with a capacity of 15 watts and a large canister (about 50 liters) to dilute the salt in it. The first month of caring for the aquarium will require significant costs and effort, and then everything will become much easier - daily feeding and about an hour a week for the maintenance of equipment.

marine aquarium photo

Select the desired volume

It goes without saying that the larger the volume of the aquarium, the more expensive its equipment. Although the best volume for the "sea" is considered a capacity of 200 - 250 liters. (it is easiest to maintain a balanced ecosystem), you can start with a smaller displacement aquariums - the best option would be 50 - 80 liters.

A very small aquarium (for example, 20 liters) can also be made “marine” if desired, but it is rather difficult to maintain constant water parameters in it. In this case, the rectangular shape of the container is preferable to the cubic one, and this is due to the possibility of organizing the proper lighting, as well as the placement of stones.

STONES FOR THE SEA AQUARIUM

Such stones are also called living, since they are genuine fragments of coral reefs from the ocean, and numerous colonies of beneficial bacteria live in their cavities. Some specimens have real thickets of polyps (anemones) on their surface, and inside - small crustaceans, crabs and sea worms.

From such guests need to get rid of, moreover, to do it on time. We do not want to frighten you, but in saltwater aquariums, without your control, life can flow like in a real ocean - some eat others, others parasitize everything alive. Learn how to install live rock, namely, how to get rid of carnivorous sea anemones, poisonous snails, cones and murex, crayfish, predatory shrimps and all kinds of worms.

Having brought home the purchased stones, they should be treated - washed under running hot water, be sure to wear durable gloves, as these types of unwanted inhabitants leave painful and dangerous burns and bites. Having installed the stones, observe life in it in the dark time - the hungry and active passengers will soon find themselves. At the stage of dealing with them, use special medications or remove animals with tweezers.

A few words about the second favorite element of the decor - it is seashells in the aquarium. Decorating the seabed, they are absolutely not suitable for our purposes, but beginners often want to use them - it's beautiful! The main reason to abandon the shells is the hardness of the water, which invariably grows due to these sources of calcium carbonate (in fact, chalk). Not all aquarium fish will hurt and die, their possible proximity to the sink depends on the species, but they certainly can not reproduce.

marine aquarium photo

Filtration and water recovery systems

The most important and complex point in equipping a marine aquarium, because the water in it must be perfectly clean and contain a minimum amount of nitrates. If in nature the nature itself takes care of this, and the sea currents constantly bring fresh and clean water, then in an aquarium the problem of water purity can be managed only with the help of special equipment. Samp is a container made of organic glass, divided by partitions into compartments in which various aquarium equipment is installed.

The sump is usually equipped in an aquarium cabinet, but has direct communication with the aquarium. It can be purchased (there is now a large selection of sumps with all the necessary equipment on the market) or it is made by itself, in this case the aquarist has the opportunity for a unique selection of the aquarium equipment that suits him best. The basic principle of operation of a sump is a closed loop.

With the help of a return pump, water flows from the sump to the aquarium, and then, exceeding a certain level, it enters the overflow box and then flows by gravity back to the sump. What should be in the sump? Foam separator (skimmer). With the help of this device organic matter, constantly present there, is removed from the water, even before its disintegration begins. Even invisible to the naked eye, the dirt is quickly collected on the bubbles, which creates a skimmer and accumulates in a special compartment, from which it is then easily removed. Biological filter. For these purposes, a separate sump compartment is usually filled with filter material.

marine aquarium photo

This may be coral chips, as well as special bio-balls or other porous organic material. The larger the surface of the biological filter, the more bacteria are there, and accordingly the quality of biological filtration improves. We must not forget about the required amount of oxygen for the process, as well as the speed of water flow through the filter. Together, these three factors create the biological stability of the entire system. Algae (refujium).

Algae are capable of very effectively eliminating nitrates from water, and microplankton propagates in the alga, which serves as food for many inhabitants of the marine aquarium. To organize an algae above one of the compartments of the sump with running water, lighting is provided, and the lamp must be sufficiently powerful (70-100 W). Algae (hetamorph) are placed at the bottom of the compartment, which grow well and multiply in conditions of high nitrate content and bright light. Their number must be kept under control, since with excessive growth of algae absorb too many trace elements from the water, and this is harmful for corals.

The flow of water in the alga should be slower than in the entire aquarium. Return pump. It is usually installed in a special compartment of the sump with a variable water level. At the same time, the compartment is made sufficiently bulky so that in the event of an emergency power outage or breakdown of the pump to accommodate the entire volume of water that will merge from the aquarium. To reduce the amount of water that is draining when a similar situation arises, holes are made near the end of the return tube, which is lowered into the aquarium at a distance of 1.5 cm.

When the level falls, air enters the holes and stops draining. We must pay attention to the power of the return pump. The best solution would be a pump that can pump about 10 volumes of an aquarium per hour. In this case, decomposition products will be removed from the aquarium in time, and the water will be sufficiently saturated with oxygen. Avtodoliv. The system of compensation for water evaporated from an aquarium, which makes life easier for its owner, since daily level tracking is quite tedious.

The pump (in specialty stores at the moment their large selection is presented) is installed in a separate sump compartment according to the instructions. Additional compartments. It is recommended to purchase or manufacture your own samp, providing for the availability of spare compartments. Methods of water purification in the marine aquarium are constantly being improved and, perhaps, to install any innovations will require the presence of additional compartments. In addition, a water heater can be installed in the sump, which in this case does not spoil the appearance created by the aquarist of the “sea” landscape.

FISHING FOR THE SEA AQUARIUM To make your home sea enjoy not only bright beauty, but also a peaceful atmosphere, populate the reservoir with small and non-aggressive views. As new species are added, study the literature to find out which ones easily get along and which ones conflict. If you decide on the maintenance of exotic predator fish, you will have to confine yourself to one species in order not to turn your aquarium into a torture chamber.

But do not be embarrassed, the choice of fish without exaggeration is great. Rate the diversity of marine aquarium dwellers: parrot fish; backspins; hedgehog fish (without neighbors); fish soldiers; angels: centropig, diakantus and about 20 subspecies; moray eels (without neighbors); fox fish; a wide family of butterfly fish; zebrasome and other surgeon fish; pseudochromisms; clown fish; grams; dogs (without neighbors); tangerines; argus; bullies and many others.

The life expectancy of all is different, but with good care, successful acclimatization and timely treatment, most species live 3-4 or about 10 years, and angelfish are all twenty. Naturally, from the first days you will need to take care of feeding for the fish, given that different species feed in different ways: there are herbivores, carnivores and omnivores, and some, for example, squirrel fish, eat exclusively living food.

Choose the inhabitants so that it is easier to put together a diet for most or all at once. Do not flatter yourself that you can dig up worms, feed house flies or get along with bread crumbs. For sea fish, branded food is not a whim, but a necessity, so be aware of your responsibility to animals and be ready to constantly buy good food of a certain type.

Organization of the correct flow in the marine aquarium

Current is a vital factor for marine life. It purifies water, brings food and oxygen, and determines all the natural cycles of marine animals. In a marine aquarium, flow is especially important for "live" stones. Only with intensive water movement, they are able to fully perform the function of a biological filter.

Under natural habitat conditions, marine animals become accustomed to fairly strong currents, which sometimes give way to calm. Therefore, in the marine aquarium, some pumps can be turned off at night. The minimum volume pumped by the pump per hour for the "sea" should be 10-15 volumes of the aquarium, although the best figure would be 50 volumes. The flow of water should not fall directly on invertebrates.

It is better to direct it to the stones so that they are washed as intensely as possible. For these purposes, usually use two pumps installed opposite each other. In this case, the minimum number of stagnant zones remains in the aquarium, in which the microfloat can die due to the absence of oxygen.

STARTING THE SYSTEM
Before you start such a hobby, it will be correct to read as much literature on this topic as possible, so as to avoid common mistakes at first. Well, the main points of the plan, how to make a marine aquarium yourself, will be provided by our step-by-step guide: assemble the tank, install the main decorative elements, attach the switched off filters, pour the fillers into them, conduct grounding; fill the tank with water from the tap, stand for 24 hours, drain; fill three-quarters of the volume of water from the tap, turn on the filters, heating (25-26 ° C)

and pump, uphold the system for seven days; turn off the apparatuses, clean the carbon filler filter and lay a new portion, add sea salt to the water (37 grams of salt for 1 l of water); turn on the pump so that the salt mixes and dissolves, then turn off; when the water settles, clean the bottom with a siphon - there will be a muddy sediment, it must be removed; lay the soil and make all your algae and decorations (stones, houses, shells);

measure the water density with a hydrometer, bring the indicator to 1'022-1'024 g / l, pouring either fresh water or saline solution, at the same time fill the tank almost to the edges (space from the top edge is 4-5 cm); wait a week for the water to settle, but after about three days turn on the filters, pump, skimmer and heating, add the drug with bacteria or live rocks (reefs); a week passed, the bacteria had time to decompose the dead organics,

and filters cleaned the water; check the test content of ammonium, nitrite and phosphorus, as well as acid-base balance (the rate of the first not more than 0.5 mg per liter, the second - not less than 8.0); if the indices deviate, it means that the decay has not yet ended, to put it simply, something is rotting in the water - this needs to be found and removed (remove and clean all the stones and scenery);

when all indicators are normal, you can run the first settlers - fish, 2-3 small individuals; At this stage, you need to check the indicators daily and make water changes until the bacteria colonize the contents of the aquarium and can not completely process the waste of fish; when the process is established, launch new fish, 1-2 per week, carefully checking the indicators with tests, changing the water; everything gradually enters the rut, and in three months you will have a reliable biosystem!

Aquarium fridge

The usual temperature for a saltwater aquarium is 25-26 degrees. If its lower limit is easily regulated with the help of a water heater, then in case of strong heat very often there is a problem with cooling the water to the desired parameters. An aquarium refrigerator is not a cheap pleasure, but when you consider that in a particularly hot season, all aquarium inhabitants can die due to overheating, installing it is worth it.

VIDEO OF THE MARINE AQUARIUM

GROWTH FOR THE AQUARIUM BY OWN HANDS, FROM A STONE FROM A TREE FROM CLAY FROM COCONUT

EXTERNAL FILTER FOR THE AQUARIUM OWN HANDS

AQUAIUM SPRAYER AND EVERYTHING THAT YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT IT.

Sea Aquarium in your home! Where to start and how much it costs?

Sea Aquarium in your home! Where to begin?

Seawater aquarium can be a central element of the interior of your home or workplace.

But the question is:

What can you do to buy and install a marine aquarium?

How much time and effort will take further care of the marine aquarium?

How do marine aquariums differ from each other, and which one is best suited for a particular interior?

Not every aquarist keen on his business will be able to thoroughly and clearly answer such questions to you, let alone those who are just beginning to think about such a purchase. We will try to present in this article the main and secondary points related to the purchase and subsequent maintenance of the aquarium. Go.

In the aquarium market there are a considerable number of manufacturers. Each of them practices its own marketing policy and has certain advantages over competitors. German aquariums AquaMedic, "Israelis" RedSea, the Japanese company ADA, the Chinese brand Anubias - by clicking on the link AQUARIUMS, You will note more than a dozen other companies and countries where these firms are located.

For an example that will help us estimate the estimated cost of the entire list of accessories and materials that you will need to fully maintain your piece of the sea, take the inexpensive 30-liter AQUAEL NanoReef aquarium from Poland. Let's explore what features and properties we can get for 7225 rubles (after reading the list, you can immediately walk HERE)

- Dimensions - 30x30x35 cm.

- Existence of the external filter of backpack type.

- Equipment with two lamps of 11 W each.

- Cover glass and rear tinted wall in blue

Now we will start filling our aquarium with all sorts of useful things and materials that will add to this glass vessel the effect of a real seabed. They can be divided into three categories:

- What you need to purchase at the very beginning.

- The fact that you can buy a little later.

- Animals, which we want to populate the aquarium.

List number one:

- Sea salt. A seven-kilogram bucket of Red Sea Coral Pro Salt, which is really long enough, will cost you 1.730 rubles.,

- Hydrometer for measuring the density and salinity of water. The inexpensive model of production Fluval costs us 590 rubles.

- Living stones. We take 4 kg, at a price of 1.350 rubles. for 1 kg.,

- Live stones, small / fight 1 kg., They will cost 940 rubles. ,

- Living sand. 10 kg. for 2.200 rubles.,

- Distilled water.

List number two:

osmosis for saltwater aquarium

- Installation of reverse osmosis, for example, Dennerle Professional 130 model for 5.295 rubles. It will filter the water and maintain the ecosystem of your aquarium.,

- A set of tests that read important water parameters (such as pH). Estimated cost - 6.150 rubles.

List number three:

- Two three-tape clown Ocellaris, each fish costs 645 rubles.,

- Two strombus - black-necked and / or Canarian Guido. 535 rub. for one snail.,

- Cancer hermit. Small (blue), but at 630 rubles. Or large (diogenic), but at 885 rubles. Take for a start small.,

- Actinia brick. The most exotic tenant of your aquarium will cost 3780 rubles.,

- Granulat XL dry granulated feed. 400 rub. for 250 ml.,

We calculate the total estimate and the cost of each list separately.

List

Aquarium

List # 1

List # 2

List # 3

Total

Amount

7225

10860

11445

7020

36550

Now let's analyze the main points of our lists in more detail:

Salt for marine aquarium

In no case can you use ordinary cooking or cosmetic salts for aquariums. Harmless to the inhabitants of your aquarium will only sea salt, sold in specialized stores. The most versatile and high-quality options can be the products of the companies Red Sea and Tropic Marin, its composition is perfect even for aquariums, recreating the ecosystems of coral reefs.

Instruments for measuring and monitoring parameters in the marine aquarium

Most inhabitants of saltwater aquariums can only feel comfortably in water with certain properties. Temperature, density, salinity, oxygen saturation and many other parameters of aquarium water can be monitored and controlled using a specific set of measuring equipment. Consider several types of such equipment a little closer.

Refractometer - optical device, at the professional level, measuring salinity and density of water. He assesses the degree of refraction of a ray of light passing through a tiny, a few drops of water sample. And based on how strong the refraction (refraction) of light in the sample is, it gives the exact value of the density of water, as well as the percentage of salts contained in it.

Hydrometer - a kind of high-precision thermometer (although it does not measure the temperature). So high-precision that such devices are often used in laboratory research. To determine the salinity of the water, the areometer requires a strictly specified water temperature - 25 ° C. You simply immerse the device in a filled aquarium and determine its salinity level in a matter of seconds. On the scale of each hydrometer there is a green zone, within which salinity is considered normal for aquarium living creatures.

Hydrometer - is a device that measures the salinity and density of water. It also needs a liquid of a certain temperature (25 ° C), at which accurate data on the salinity of sea water are displayed on a large and convenient scale of the hygrometer.

Living stones for marine aquarium

live rocks for saltwater aquarium

live rocks for saltwater aquarium

Living stones are a very important component of the marine ecosystem. Actually, why are these stones called "alive"? Each such stone is in fact not a real stone. In most cases, it is a piece of the surface of a coral reef and has a porous structure, becoming a large apartment building for a great variety of microscopic algae and animal organisms. They pass seawater through themselves, converting potential pollutants (nitrates, phosphates, various organic acids, etc.) into chemically and biologically neutral compounds. The water becomes cleaner, safer and healthier for fish and other inhabitants of the aquarium. This also contributes to the chemical composition of living stones, enriching the water with calcium ions, magnesium, bicarbonate ions and other minerals. Such stones can be located directly on the aquarium floor (some of them look damn impressive) and lie in the biofilter. And over time, the microorganisms inhabiting them will gradually leave their native stone apartments, finding new places in the tiny cavities of the soil or scenery, without ceasing to carry their beneficent filtering mission.

Live stones small / fight.

Exactly the same stones, only crushed to the state of a large crumb. They are used in the cavities of aquarium filters, where they become an excellent replacement for the sponge located there by default. Unlike standard sponges, small live stones are a much more powerful barrier against harmful substances such as nitrates.

Live sand for marine aquarium

live sand for marine aquarium

Living sand has in its composition, as an inorganic substrate, and tiny forms of living organisms - invertebrates and bacteria. A 3-6 cm layer of sand at the bottom of the aquarium will carry both an aesthetic function, creating a feeling of a real seabed, and a whole range of practical functions that benefit the whole aquarium.

- Many fish and other inhabitants of the aquarium use living sand as an abundant and permanent source of food - living organisms contained in it reproduce at an enviable rate, maintaining a stable amount of organic matter in the sand. Some other fish swallow sand in order to improve digestion.

- Living sand helps in maintaining the balance of chemicals in the water. Its alkaline structure has a positive effect on the pH level, and new calcium and strontium ions, important for many inhabitants of the aquarium, are continuously released into the water.

- Of course, living sand itself is home to many biological species - starfish, snaketails, bottom digging fishes, crustaceans. They will not be able to live in an aquarium without a sufficient layer of live sand at its bottom.

Like living stones, sand also has the ability to “age” over time. Experts recommend either to completely change it, or just periodically fill up some fresh live sand to the bottom. It is impossible to keep the tank with live sand in the open state for more than a day, otherwise it could end in death for the organisms inhabiting it.

Summing up, we can conclude that creating a piece of the sea at home is not at all difficult and relatively budget-friendly. Completely ready system on 30 liters, will leave to you in 36.550 rubles.

Photo-collection of beautiful marine aquariums

Marine Aquarium video about the launch and arrangement

Workshop: Run a marine aquarium

Running a 600-liter marine aquarium (Part 2 - my progress)

Running a marine aquarium

sea ​​tank 440 l. mpg preparation for the launch of a marine aquarium

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