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What you need for a fish tank

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What you need to buy for an aquarium?

For a person who decides to start an aquarium for the first time, the question arises - what is needed for a home aquarium? What equipment? In the article you will learn what equipment for the aquarium happens, what types of filters, heaters, etc., and how do they differ? Heaters, filters, and lighting are important parts of a modern tropical aquarium and are now a large selection of different equipment. Choosing the right way without knowing anything about him is quite difficult, and it’s not cheap and should work long and efficiently.

Some types of aquariums immediately contain everything you need, including a lamp, a filter, etc., but they are quite expensive.

And besides filters and other large equipment there are a lot of necessary trifles - nets, cables for cleaning the filter hoses, glass cleaners and various small things. However, it is the filter, the lamp and the heater that are the most expensive and important parts of the equipment. So, what equipment do you need for an aquarium?

What is the filter for?

All filters operate on three basic principles: mechanical, biological, and chemical filtration. Mechanical filtration purifies water from visible particles and allows it to be clean and transparent. As a rule, biological filtering is performed in the filter by pumping water through a sponge or sponge, filtering debris. The sponge is removed and just washed. Some filters use a whole chain of sponges, with varying degrees of density, purifying water from particles of various sizes. Mechanical filtration first of all gives visual purity to water, but the transparency of water is usually indifferent to fish, because in nature it lives in different waters.

The sponge used in the filter gives a more important effect - biological filtration. On the surface of the sponge develop beneficial bacteria that help decompose hazardous compounds in water, such as ammonia.

Leftovers are not eaten, and fish waste creates ammonia, which is very toxic to fish, and must be removed from the water. In a biological filter, ammonia decomposes into nitrites, which are less toxic. Another group of bacteria, nitrites, processes into nitrates, which are toxic only in high concentrations. In order to process toxins, you need a large number of bacteria. Therefore, the greater the surface of the biological filter, the better.

The third type of filtration is chemical, it uses special means to remove toxins from water. Chemical filtration is not mandatory in the aquarium, but it is necessary in the treatment of fish, or disturbances in the balance and is very useful.

What are the filters for the aquarium?

There are three main types of filters for an aquarium - bottom, internal and external. The bottom filter passes water through the soil and then pours it back into the water.

The movement of the water controls the pump. Soil serves as a mechanical and biological filter, holding debris and creating an environment for bacteria. Although it is easy to care for the bottom filter, it is difficult to modernize and is not very suitable for aquariums with plants. Plants do not like the flow of water and oxygen near the roots. The cost of the bottom filter is approximately equal to the cost of the internal filter, but all the internal filters are not inferior at this time, and often exceed the bottom filters, and therefore the popularity of bottom filters is declining.

Internal filter

Usually internal filter consists of filter material and housing. Inside the body is a sponge that performs biological and mechanical filtration. The pump pumps water through a sponge, garbage is removed and bacteria recycle ammonia and nitrites to nitrates. Some internal filters have special compartments to which materials for chemical filtration can be added. Internal filter, this is the most popular choice for a beginner aquarist. It is easy to care for him, he performs his functions well.

Internal filter

External filter

This is a large copy of the internal filter that works outside the aquarium. The water passes through the hoses into the canister, where it is filtered with various materials and transferred back to the aquarium. Due to the large size, the filtration efficiency increases. Because external filter is located outside the aquarium, it is usually hidden in the cabinet, in addition, it frees up space inside the jar itself. In aquariums densely planted with fish or where the fish is large, the external filter is the best solution.

Choosing a heater for the aquarium

There are many different brands with very little difference between them. More expensive heaters are slightly more reliable and are suitable for large aquariums. Cheap - have a smaller warranty period, which does not affect the efficiency. The heater consists of a heating element and a thermostat, which are located inside a sealed tube and are designed for use under water.

The thermostat is set to the desired value, and is turned on only if the temperature drops below the mark. Most heaters maintain temperature with an accuracy of + - degree. For larger aquariums, more powerful heaters are needed. As a rule, the difference in price between a more and less powerful heater is small. But here it is important not to make a mistake with the power; a more powerful one can overheat the water, and a low-power one will not heat it to the required temperature. Determining the power you need is very simple - the box indicates which displacement of the heater is calculated.

The lamp for the aquarium

Although there are many different types of fixtures, fluorescent lighting is the best choice for beginners. Fluorescent lamps in an aquarium are not at all the same as in a house. They are specially designed to make the lighting as close as possible to the sun.

Lamp consists of a starter or ballast to start the lamps and the lamps themselves. The lamps are waterproof and the water from the aquarium will not close.

The advantage of fluorescent lamps for the aquarium is that they heat up significantly less. For example, 90cm lamp consumes 25 watts, while the usual about 60.

In such lamps, the important part is the spectrum, that is, the difference in it, some are suitable for saltwater aquariums, others for herbalists, and others well emphasize the color of the fish. You can make your choice by asking the seller. Or take the most simple, with time you will understand what you really need.

Luminaire with fluorescent lamps

Compressor

The fish in your tank need oxygen for breathing. Oxygen enters the water through the surface, and carbonic acid evaporates from the water. The rate of exchange depends on the size of the surface of the water and the flow. A large mirror of water accelerates gas exchange, which is useful for fish.

Aquarium Compressor

The main function of the compressor is to supply oxygen to water through air bubbles that rise to the surface. Oxygen in bubbles dissolves in water, in addition, they create the movement of water and accelerate gas exchange.

For most aquariums, the compressor itself is not needed, as the filter performs the same function, mixing water. In addition, many filters have an aerator that adds air bubbles to the water flow.

Compressor It can only be useful if there is oxygen starvation in the water, for example, when treating fish in an aquarium.

It is also a decorative function, many people like the bubbles rising to the surface.

But still - for most aquariums, the compressor itself is not needed.

A small aquarium and everything you need to know about it.

What aquariums are considered small?

Small consider aquariums less than 30-40 liters, usually from 5 to 20 liters. Often they are called nano aquariums (from the Greek nano - "small, tiny, dwarf"), emphasizing with this term not only size, but also their modernity and manufacturability. There are also microaquariums, their capacity is 1-2 liters, and animals do not lodge in them, with the exception of some species of snails. The world's smallest aquarium with fish was created by Omsk miniaturist Anatoly Konenko and his son Stanislav. They placed in 10 ml of water a primer, a specially designed mini-compressor, small cladofor bushes and a few danio fry.

We will immediately agree that we will not call a round ten-liter jar with a goldfish a nano-aquarium because it is not an aquarium, but a mockery of fish and all the principles of aquarism.

An aquarium, no matter how large, is an equilibrium biological system whose inhabitants feel comfortable.

To achieve this in a small amount is a whole science. But, if this is possible, the results can be simply amazing. Such aquariums, where a living biotope is reproduced in a tiny volume, resemble Japanese bonsai art or large-scale models of luxury cars: small ones, but everything is real.

Of course, not all small aquariums are worthy of aquascaping competitions or books of records, but each of them should please the eye of its owner and create a comfortable environment for its inhabitants.

Care of a mini aquarium

As for the maintenance of the aquarium of small size, here you can get under the influence of stereotypes. Often, parents buy aquariums for their children, considering that a small aquarium is easier to clean than a large one. Rather, the "underwater world" of a small size is subject to temperature changes and requires frequent water changes.

If water is rarely changed, the waste products of fish begin to accumulate on the walls and it will be rather difficult to clean the container with your hands. In addition, the slightest excess feed, stale at the bottom of such an aquarium, instantly spoils the water and shifts biological balance. But if you decide to start a small aquarium, get it "fully loaded". Specialists will select all the necessary equipment for lighting, water filtration and water heating. And, despite the equipment, place the aquarium in a room whose temperature is constant.

With such a small amount of water, a drop of even 1-2 degrees negatively affects the fish. When feeding fish, give off a small amount of food so that after feeding there will be no leftovers. Remove excess feed immediately. When caring for an aquarium, you will have to carry out frequent water changes, until the bacteria stabilize their numbers in the filter.

Bacteria convert waste decomposition products into safe substances. A stock of settled water should always be at your disposal. Water in the aquarium should be changed every three to four days, replacing at least a quarter of the volume of water in a small aquarium.

To prevent algae, an aquarium should not be placed close to the window. Direct sunlight should not fall on it, and the duration of the active daylight should be smoothly increased from six hours immediately after the arrangement of the aquarium to ten hours by the time the biological equilibrium is stabilized.

Small aquarium and equipment for it

Nano aquariums are rectangular, cubic or close to it. They are usually covered with a transparent cover glass that allows you to admire them from above. Keep them away from drafts and direct sunlight and closer to the outlet that you need to connect equipment.

Equipment for nano aquariums is generally the same as for large ones, that is, a filter (in some cases it is enough to have a pump with an aerator), lighting devices, a heater if necessary, better complete with a thermostat, and a carbon dioxide supply system.

For those who do not have the experience and time to select aquarium technology, fully equipped nano aquariums are on sale. The best in terms of price and quality are the complexes of the Aqua El Shrim Set and Dennerle Nano Cube series.

And if you want to save money or it is interesting to choose all the stuffing for your nanocube yourself, there is plenty to choose from.

Filter

For a small aquarium, filter is vital. Since the balance in this system is very fragile, and a small deviation of the parameters of the aquarium water can be fatal for its inhabitants, it is necessary to minimize the risk of these fluctuations. Therefore, pumps without a sponge or with a small sponge the size of a matchbox do not fit. Rather, they can be used, but only in aquariums with a very large number of live plants and without fish, with some invertebrates. However, with such a population, you can do without a filter or restrict the compressor.

If there are fish in the aquarium, the requirements for the filter are very serious. It should have a large filler surface to create a biofiltration, skip 8-15 volumes of the aquarium per hour, but not create strong streams of water that will damage plants, fish and crustaceans. In addition, small inhabitants of an aquarium should not fall into its water intakes. And, of course, it should occupy a minimum of space in the aquarium or be well decorated and fit into the landscape. Another optional, but very desirable condition is that the filtering material must be taken out of the water for rinsing without dismantling the filter itself, this greatly facilitates the maintenance of the aquarium.

The following types of filters satisfy these conditions partially or completely:

  1. Internal filters with open lips. They do not have a body, therefore, no one will suck in them. A large sponge (it is better to replace it with a finely porous at once) serves as a good material for mechanical cleaning and a substrate for the reproduction of bacteria of the biofilter. Some models of such filters can be placed with a sponge up, respectively, it is easily removed.
  2. External mounted filters, waterfalls. Take up little space, since the main part is outside. They have a large enough volume, which can be filled with various filter materials. Do not create a strong flow. The disadvantage is that when using these filters the aquarium can not be closed with a lid. It is required to put on a sponge or a fine mesh on the water intake tube of such a filter in order to avoid the inhabitants of the aquarium being sucked into the filter.
  3. External canister filters. Currently, there are models designed for small volumes. Provide very good mechanical and biological filtration, without taking up space in the aquarium. As with mounted filters, the water intake tube should be closed with a sponge or mesh. The only downside is the high cost.

In addition to these models, in aquariums of small size, you can use a variety of home-made designs - airlifts, Hamburg filters, plastic bottles with a fibrous or porous substance, connected to the pump. The requirement here is one: water under pressure must pass through a sufficient amount of material that provides mechanical filtration and can serve as a substrate for bacteria involved in the nitrogen cycle.

An additional filter in a small aquarium is live plants, sometimes they are even placed in a mounted waterfall, making a fit filter out of it.

Lighting

Due to the obligatory presence of living plants, the issue of lighting a small aquarium becomes urgent. There are almost never used lamps built into the cover, lamps are installed at a certain height above the aquarium. Usually used fluorescent or LED lamps. In general, the rule is this: if the lamps are fluorescent, then for unpretentious plants the light should be 0.5 W per liter of water, for whimsical ground cover plants or those with a reddish tint - 1 W per liter. If the lamps are light-emitting diode, the ratio of the lamp power and the luminous flux is different, and here they are already looking at the number of lumens. For undemanding plants there is enough illumination at 25 lm per liter, for demanding ones - 50 lm.

Which fish is suitable for settling in a mini aquarium?

What kind of fish can you keep in mini aquariums? In a small 10-20 liter tank you need to settle pets with miniature body size. Fish 2-6 centimeters in length will carry such a volume of water. But remember that even small fish want to swim in a spacious environment. They can not be kept in containers that will restrict movement. Territorial and aggressive fish cannot be accommodated in mini aquariums. Which do not need to settle in a 10-liter aquariums? These are swordtails, barbus averages, cichlids, gourami, danios. They have an active and energetic disposition, they need more space for shelter.

In the aquarium of 10-20 liters, you can settle small barbs, pseudomogil gertrudy, rice fish, cherry barbus, rasbor, erythrosalonus, neon, tetra Amanda. Also there you can keep such fish and shrimp: catfish ottsinklyus, corridor, shrimp amano, cherry shrimp, copper tetra. A representative of the genus Pecilia, viviparous fishes get along well in mini tanks.

You need to buy breeds of fish with a strong immunity, that is, not actually thoroughbred, but hybrids. If you do not have the opportunity to buy a spacious "house" for your small pet, you need to buy a small aquarium with a capacity of 10 liters. There are also often settled well-known Siamese cockerels. The cockerel can live alone, does not get along with relatives, this is after all a fighting fish.

We carefully study the compatibility of species.

Fish for a small aquarium should be selected depending on many factors. For beginners, it is problematic to consider them yourself, so contact the professionals who will help determine which fish can be kept together, and which neighborhoods should be avoided.

Factors important at settling:

  • The ability to survive one by one. Some species can live only in flocks, so pay attention to this moment in the first place;
  • Water characteristics for species should be approximately the same;
  • Peaceful nature of the inhabitants;
  • The number of individuals depends on the surface area of ​​the water.The larger the footage, the more fish you can start;
  • Compatibility of rocks. Sometimes peace-loving fish separately do not tolerate each other's neighborhood.

It is important to remember that small aquariums - a zone of increased danger to fish. Therefore, the choice of neighbors fully determine the fate of your wards. If you add predatory fish to a small aquarium, they will eat peace-loving neighbors. For the angelfish fit gurus, other fish with them will not get along. You can get one fish, which will be the mistress of your reservoir, or keep a whole flock of miniature fish.

PLANTS IN MINI-AQUARIUM

Living plants are needed in small aquariums, as they help remove hazardous substances from the water - nitrites, nitrates and ammonia. Plants in a mini-aquarium create additional insurance and reduce stress in fish. They are also very convenient for growing some small species of plants, because in a mini-aquarium it is easier to create good lighting, and in large light simply does not reach the bottom level in necessary quantities.

To choose the right plants for your aquarium - read the materials on the Internet and talk with experienced vendors, they will always help.

FEEDING

The most important point. The food you give is the main source, and in some cases even the only one, of various decay products. The less you feed, the less dirt and the more stable the aquarium. Of course, the fish must be well fed, and your task is to keep the balance between the well-fed fish and the overfed fish.

A good way is to give as much food as fish eat in a minute so that no food will fall to the bottom. Factory feed for fish, in the form of flakes, a good choice for a small aquarium, it slowly sinks and gives less waste, but also gives small waste and feeds they need not excessively. It is better to feed the fish in the new aquarium for them. When the balance is established, or you start the bottom fish, for example, catfish, you can add other types of feed for a full diet.

Making a small aquarium

You can decorate a nano aquarium in a different style. Among aqua-designers, the Iwagumi styles are popular - they are decorated with stones of various shapes, the dressage is decorated with snags, and the wabicusa is in the form of a bump with plants. But here the taste and preferences of the owner are crucial. For example, if an aquarium is in a child’s room, it is appropriate to place a mermaid's castle or a sunken ship and toy scuba divers into it. The main thing is that the scenery should not take up too much space (as a general rule, not more than a quarter of the bottom surface and half the height), hide the aquarium equipment and leave room for plants and fish. In addition, if there are shrimps in the aquarium, it must be borne in mind that any objects protruding from the water may facilitate their escape from the aquarium.

Soil in small aquariums usually use a two-layer: the bottom layer is a nutrient substrate, the top one is gravel, the total layer thickness should be 3-4 cm.

HOW TO MAKE AN AQUARIUM OWN HANDS AT HOME.

LARGE AQUARIUM FOR HOME - LAUNCH OF REGISTRATION. IMAGE EVENT. PHOTO VIDEO.

AQUARIUMS AND EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT THEM.

Aquarium for beginners: care, content, useful video


AQUARIUM FOR BEGINNERS
Problems faced by beginners when you first start an aquarium

The motivation for writing this article was the frequent appeal of newcomers to aquarism at FORUM FanFishka.ru. Almost every day, newly minted owners of the aquarium world ask their questions to which they either do not know the answers, or need advice, or have problems after the first launch of the aquarium.

All who asked for help on the forum, did not go unheeded! Even if the newcomer had gross or absurd mistakes, I never scolded him, and tried to explain what was what planned.

But, at some stage, I realized that I would not be enough for everyone and that I needed methodological material for beginners!

Looking at the materials already written on the site FanFishka.ru, I saw a sufficient number of articles - “about the first steps into the aquarium kingdom”. But, all of them were scattered and only mutually complementary. After analyzing further similar materials on the Internet, my desire to write a decent, systematic material, only intensified!

For constructive conversation, let's break down the article into sections:

1. AQUARIUM FOR BEGINNERS: arrangement, launch, frequent questions, problems.

2. FISHING AND PLANTS FOR BEGINNERS: what are the issues that are necessary, problems.

3. NUANS OF YOUNG AQUARIUM: rules that will help to avoid problems with the aquarium.

AQUARIUM FOR BEGINNERS

arrangement, launch, frequent questions, problems

To create an aquarium world, you need not only the aquarium itself, but also related products. Many beginners make the mistake of buying only the minimum part of the necessary equipment. And then they begin to run in a hurry in search of a product.

Remember, as Captain Vrungel said: "How do you call a ship, so it will sail." The first launch of the aquarium should be perfect - and this will be the key to the joy and pleasure from aquarium contemplation, eliminates possible problems and difficulties, and most importantly will give you invaluable experience. In the future, you can miss something, lazy ... but not now!

Below are links to articles in this section, in bold, priority articles are highlighted:

Running Aquarium from A to Z

An example of an aquarium design 100 liters

Aquarium decoration

Which aquarium is better

WHAT NEED TO AQUARIUM

I WANT TO GO TO FISH: how to equip the first aquarium.

AQUARIUM BEGINNING: the basics of the aquarium, the basics of aquarium

FIRST AQUARIUM DAYS: Start the creation of the aquarium world of fish!

INVENTORY FOR AQUARIUM AND DEVICES

BOTTOM AND GROUND OF THE AQUARIUM

CHANGE OF WATER IN THE AQUARIUM! WHAT WATER IS NEEDED FOR THE AQUARIUM?

Boiled thawed or distilled water for aquarium

Seashells in the aquarium

SMALL AQUARIUM merits and demerits!

LACK OF THE AQUARIUM, but are these fish really necessary?

AQUARIUM FOR CHILDREN

Other questions on the forum ...

Here's another, for convenience, as a reminder - I give a list of what ponabitsya for a novice aquarist:

- aquarium;

- aeration, filtration;

- ground;

- heat heater, thermometer;

- lighting, if not included;

- aquatic organisms: fish, plants, mollusks, etc .;

- food for prospective fish;

- inventory: net, siphon, aquarium silicone, sponges, buckets. Secondary - hoses, valves, windshield wipers, other;

Plus, I recommend to all beginners to buy immediately a means to stabilize the aquarium water. It is called the water stabilizer. Different brands have different names, here are some of them: Tetra Aqua Safe, Sera aquatan, Sera bio nitrivec ... others. Read about them here AQUARIUM CHEMISTRY.

The above articles fully disclose all the nuances of buying, installing and running an aquarium. Below are the blitz answers to the most frequent questions of novice aquarists.

1. Question: Is it possible to put the aquarium on the furniture? In the kitchen? Bath and so on?

Answer: Can. It is important that the surface of the furniture was solid and withstand the weight of the aquarium with water, soil and decorations. The aquarium can be placed anywhere, as long as direct sunlight does not fall on it. Cooking, bathing does not interfere with the life of the fish.

2. Question: After the launch of the aquarium, the water turned cloudy - became whitish!?

Answer: Nothing wrong with that. When you first fill the aquarium with water for the first time, the reservoir's biobalance is not yet tuned, because This is a long process. Primary adaptation processes of aquarium water occur. The whiteness of the water will pass itself in 3-7 days.

3. Question: What kind of water to pour into the aquarium? How often should it be changed?

Answer: You need to pour water at least 24 hours a day. Otherwise, you can run into trouble, for example, gas embolus. Yes ... you can fill the aquarium with tap water - but, counting on it at random.

The substitution of aquarium water is purely individual and depends on the size of the aquarium, the number of fish and plants, and other factors. In general, it is customary to replace water once a week. But, as the poll on our site shows, this is not a dogma.

"How often do you change aquarium water to fresh water?"

4. Question: Is it possible to decorate an aquarium with statuettes, shells, beads, etc.

Answer: Can. But, you must make sure that the material from which the decor is made is not soluble in water. The same shells undergo a gradual dissolution in aquarium water, which increases, albeit slightly, the rigidity of aquarium water. Painted, plastic items are best not to use. Metal - are prohibited.

FISHING AND PLANTS FOR BEGINNERS

what is necessary, issues issues

Giving advice on choosing fish for a novice aquarist, you can immediately get rid of him with the phrase: "Choose unpretentious in the content, small fish, for example, from the family of petsilia - guppies, swordtails, radishes, etc.".

But who thought it up that it is impossible to immediately start large, beautiful fish - the same tsikhlazom: severum, diamond or black-striped? If you properly care for them, then there will be no problems. And if you do not follow the aquarium and let everything go to chance, then the guppies will die in a week.

Perhaps the main qualification when choosing aquarium fish are your abilities and desires.

The opposite situation is with aquarium plants. It's not so simple. The success of plant maintenance is LIGHT + SUPPLY + CO2. Their deficiency leads to the death or poor health of plants.

Unfortunately, in the aquarium covers that come with, as a rule, there are 15-18 watt light bulbs, the power of which is insufficient for the normal existence of aquarium plants. Therefore, before you start a plant you need to study everything and prepare in advance.

The initial way out of this situation may be unpretentious, resistant aquarium plants that are not pretentious to the conditions of detention.

Below are the articles that fully and comprehensively disclose this section.

Compatibility of aquarium fish

COMPATIBILITY OF GOLDEN FISHES

ALL about AQUARIUM FISHES

TOP: The most beautiful aquarium fish and fish!

The most unpretentious little aquarium fish

WHAT FISHES LIVE WITHOUT OXYGEN

What fish live in an aquarium. What kind of fish to get?

AQUARIUM FISHING OF ALL FLOWERS

Purchasing Transplant Fish Transportation

AQUARIUM PLANTS: let's talk about the benefits of plants for your aquarium!

CO2 for aquarium

The benefits and dangers of CO2 in an aquarium

Why in the aquarium ...

YOU CAN AQUARIUM: all the answers

Fish and snails: enemies or friends!

How much are the fish or the price of aquarium fish!

How much can the fish in the aquarium

Perhaps the most important thing when choosing fish is to take into account their compatibility and the volume of "living space". Do not chase the quantity!

Frequently asked questions by novice aquarists in this section:

1. Question: Did the fishes get covered with white dots, bumps?

Answer: This ichthyophthyriosis or "semolina" fish. It is treated with Tetra Contral or Sera Kostapur. Read more here:

Ichthyotiria how to treat semolina in aquarium fish

AQUARIUM CHEMISTRY

Discussion on the forum

2. Question: Fish die, why, what to do?

Answer: Here

Why die fish or the sad fate of goldfish!

The first symptoms of fish disease

WHAT TO DO IF FISHES ARE DISEASE OR SUSTAINABLE

We also recommend you to look at the colorful brochure "Popular types of aquarium fish". This brochure contains all popular types of fish, with a description of their conditions of maintenance, compatibility, feeding + photos.

(to view or download, click on the image)

NUANS OF YOUNG AQUARIUM

rules that will help to avoid problems with the aquarium

DON'T BELIEVE SELLERS.

Unfortunately, they have such a job - to smell you as much as possible. Often the sellers' advice is wrong and aimed only at one greedy enrichment at your expense.

READ, LEARN, ASK QUESTIONS.

Actually this rule follows from the previous one - it is your weapon in the fight against lies. Your own opinion based on what you read is the key to success not only in aquarism. Read several materials on the topic of interest, for comparison and analysis.

DO NOT HURRY, AND THEN SUCCEED.

Do not rush, do everything thoroughly. It is impossible to get ahead of time - everything that was done in a hurry will collapse soon.

DO NOT OVERDO IT.

Feed the fish once a day, "do not rub" the aquarium daily, do not fill the aquarium with fish and plants. In fact: aeration, filtration, normal water temperature and feed - these are the basic living conditions of the fish.

STUDY AND USE AQUARIUM CHEMISTRY.

This will give you the opportunity to quickly adjust the bio balance of the aquarium, to keep it clean, and in the case of illness of pets - to take action on time.


BONUS: VIDEO FOR BEGINNERS AQUARIUS

Running aquarium with fish

Launching a new aquarium is a complex process that requires careful preparation. In order to properly organize the launch of a new aquarium for fish, you need to prepare the aquarium itself, plants for it, decorations, a filtration system, a backlight, and a compressor with a spray. After purchasing all the equipment, it is installed, then water is poured. But that is not all. In the aquarium should be formed favorable biological environment of beneficial bacteria.

First preparations

Choose the size of the aquarium depending on what types of plants and fish you are preparing to launch. For large fish, it is better to prepare a spacious tank of 300-500 liters or more, for a flock of small fish - up to 250 liters. For one fish, a capacity of 50-60 liters is enough, but in the way of life, not all fish are lonely, so consider this feature. In a close aquarium, it is difficult to maintain a biological balance, and if you plan to buy new fish, its volume will not be enough.

See how to choose an aquarium.

Before starting a new aquarium, you need to wash it properly. Do not use soap or other detergents. Baking soda is not toxic; it washes away all germs and alkali. Rinse the tank walls with running water 4 times. Frame aquariums can be left under water for several days, during which time toxic substances will be washed off. The water in which he was located must be drained. Check if the walls of the aquarium are leaking.

Put a clean tank in a specially prepared place. You can not put it on the window sill, in places of draft and direct sunlight. Bright lighting will trigger algae reproduction and water bloom. The place for the aquarium should be permanent. Try to put it where there will be less noise, evaporation from the room battery.

Choose a table or cabinet for an aquarium of such height and surface area that could support the weight of the structure. The surface must be smooth and clean. The water pressure at the bottom of the tank is high and the bottom may crack on an uneven surface. You can use a rubber mat as a lining.

Water and scenery in an aquarium

Now you need to prepare equipment for the aquarium. Determine where it is better to put the compressor with air ducts, how to connect the lighting and the water heater. Consider where you can leave the net for transportation, the siphon with the hose, the scraper and the water collection tank. If you have thought about where you will install the equipment, you can lay the soil substrate.

Decide in advance on the type of soil - it can be gravel, pebbles or sand. Soil needs to be processed, wash out all suspended particles and remnants of large fragments. Some types of soil need to be treated with boiling water, in any case detergent. After preparing the ground, the next day you can plant unpretentious aquarium plants in it, such as valisneria, anubias, hornolistnik, elodeya and others.

Watch the video with recommendations for choosing aquarium soil.

Next you need to pour prepared water into the tank. You can not pour the water recruited from the tap, it is harmful and toxic. Let her stand for 3-4 days to get chlorine fumes out of it. It will heat to room temperature. Take measurements of water parameters using indicators. When all indicators meet the standards, you can pour water.

Later, place stones, rocks, caves, earthenware pots and treated wood snags in the tank. Attach the filtration system (external or internal filter), aerator, heating system, thermometer. If the equipment manual allows, you can install mechanisms after the water inlet. For a decorative aquascape, all parts must be as hidden as possible. With the help of large stones, driftwood and bushes of plants you can cover the installation.


After all the preparations, water can be poured in little by little, so that the soil does not become blurred and the water does not become cloudy. On a layer of soil you can put a ceramic plate, and pour water directly on it. Then turn on all devices and check their performance. Inspect the tank for damage.

Running fish

To properly prepare the aquarium to run the fish, you need to wait a few days, when it will establish biological balance. After 2 days in the new aquarium, the water becomes turbid - this means that ciliates and useful bacteria actively proliferate in it. This is a signal that the preparation of the aquarium was successful. After 2-3 days the water will be clean, it may turn yellow. If you add water from the old aquarium to the reservoir, the beneficial microorganisms will quickly establish biological balance. You can buy a special leaven with good bacteria in the pet store, and add it in the required proportions to the water.

After 7-8 days after adding water to the aquarium, you can run the first hardy and undemanding fish. It is correct to start schooling fish at once on 5-6 individuals and more, singles or paired fish - only in pairs. Viviparous species of fish and barbs will help the aquatic environment to quickly come into balance.


To prepare the fish for launching into the tank, they need to be placed in a portable water bag from their previous aquarium. Gradually lower the fish in the bag into the new water so that they get used to its temperature. After 20-30 minutes, the new water will become familiar to them. To avoid stress, anti-stress drugs such as Tetra Easybalance or Ptero Aqua Antistress can be added to the tank.

Starting the aquarium from scratch: step-by-step instructions for creating a new aquarium

LAUNCH OF AQUARIUM

The launch of the aquarium is the most important starting point in the life of the aquarium world! That is why, this issue should be given maximum attention. Due to the fact that Forum FanFishka.ru users regularly ask questions about the proper start of the aquarium, about the first month of its life, it became necessary to supplement this article with this preface, the goal of which is to expand the aquarium novice everything in a simple and understandable way and give a basis for understanding the essence of the aquarium. The first thing you should pay attention to is that we all have different aquariums: in terms of parameters, in aquatic organisms, etc. In this connection, it is simply not possible to display the standard of launch and further care of the aquarium. Each "bank" has its own specifics, its own nuances. From this, it is possible to make an important conclusion - before doing something, a novice aquarist should independently read, study information on the specificity of the content of certain aquatic organisms, a beginner should thirstyly absorb information about the nuances of the content of his aquarium. Without this, nowhere! As they say, you will not help yourself, no one will help you! A common misconception of people is their understanding of the essence of the aquarium - as a kind of can of water and fish. Far from it! An aquarium is not only water, fish and aquarium plants. This is a whole microcosm - an almost closed biological system, in which, as in nature, everything is interconnected. It should be understood that the aquarium is a collection of hydrobiotic, i.e. of all living aquarium organisms and these are not only fish and plants, they are also mollusks, crustaceans, algae, protozoa, bacteria and fungi. Can say that The aquarium as such is a compound organism consisting of a chain of "living links"!
From this we can draw another important conclusion that the primary task of an aquarist is to establish a well-coordinated work of all links in the chain. You can often hear the expressions: "aquarium balance", "biological balance", "healthy aquarium", "right aquarium", etc. - in essence, this means that the aquarium works like a clockwork, where all the gears are in place and perform their function.
Also, it should be understood that the aquarium is a complex mechanism. The processes that take place in it are complex and diverse. A frequent delusion of a newbie is the thought that: “Here I’ll throw a pill right now, which I’m recommended and everything will pass,” no ... no ... no and no! There are no magic pills. All aquarium hydrochemistry only makes life easier for an aquarist, but is not the key to success. For a deeper understanding, here are some examples of some processes (chains) that take place in an aquarium.
Example number 1. The so-called "Nitrogen cycle"
Fish waste and dead organics (hereinafter referred to as "PJ") are regularly released into the water.

Under the action of beneficial bacteria - nitrifying, PJ breaks up into poisons:
first ammonia / ammonium (NH3 / NH4),


then nitrites (NO2),


then to nitrates (NO3),


and then, by bacteria denitrifiers, nitrates decompose to a gaseous state and are removed from the aquarium.
Example number 2 "Nitrogen cycle with plants"
PJ, regularly fall into the water.


Under the action of beneficial bacteria - nitrifying, PJ breaks up into poisons:


ammonia first


then nitrites,


then nitrates,


NO3 nitrates (or more precisely nitrogen N) are fertilizer for aquarium plants and are used by them in the process of photosynthesis.


If the process of photosynthesis is adjusted (there is a proper amount of refreshment, CO2 and other fertilizers in the aquarium), the plants “pull out nitrates” take nitrogen (N) and release water H2O and oxygen (О2), which is very useful for aquatic organisms and in general for oxidation processes.
Example number 3 "Negative"
PJ, regularly fall into the water. And in the aquarium there are not enough good bacteria, no plants.


The concentration of poisons accumulates, deadly for all living things.


Aquarium, as a holistic organism "Sits and thinks what should I do? How can I reduce the concentration of poisons ... and here I am reminded of algae disputes that are always in a state of depression in aquarium water"


There is an "algal flash" - the aquarium is covered with the lower plant world: green, brown, black algae.


Due to the algae, the aquarium is trying to get rid of harmful substances.


Well, then, if you don’t remember it in time ... the aquarium is overgrown with "greenery", goes dead, turns sour and dies!

You can continue to continue to give examples of the relationship of individual elements of the aquarium chain. A lot of them! But I think the essence is clear. Additionally, see the material: MUTT AQUARIUM, Nitrates and nitrites in an aquarium. And here we come to the main task of this article - to the question, how can an aquarist help his family aquarium, at the start and the first month of life?
The most important thing that a happy owner of a new aquarium should understand is that in a young aquarium there is no bioblans at all - that is, in fact, nothing works: there is no proper amount of bacteria, fungi, freshly planted plants have not yet been strengthened, etc. ... and the fish already give out PJ, some leaves of the plants die, the remnants of under-fed food decompose ....
In this connection, below I will cite a set of rules for the care of an aquarium in the first month:
1. As a general rule, in the first month of fish in the aquarium, for obvious reasons, should not be. Often, newbies ask ... well, you can, well, you can already plant a fish))) By myself I know, this is a heel-burning desire to have the first fish! Therefore, I will answer this way - it is possible, but carefully))) ... it is desirable to at least wait two weeks ... well, at least a week))) At the same time, it is necessary to start populating the aquarium with fish gradually, starting with the most stoic and unpretentious. Which often are catfish like fish (for example, Corridors, Ancistrus). Well, then, if everything is normal, you can already look at and sit down "the main characters of your aquarium theater."
Often in the vast Runet can be found opinions and statements, such content: "Ty you think, I immediately put the fish in the aquarium and everyone is alive!" I note that this attitude to the question is not valid. Why? The answer will be given by this visual table about the growing concentration of poisons in the first month of aquarium life.

From this table it is clear that poisonous substances simply "climb up" and go off scale, because there are no bacteria, no balance. And now imagine, you bring the first cabin from the pet store! I note that in most pet stores fish are in poor conditions, and therefore, the health of most of them is not the best. So, from transplantation and transportation of your fish, in addition, stress, here it is also planted in a new aquarium with other parameters of water, and besides, the concentration of ammonia, nitrites and nitrates is too high in the water !!! What happens to a fish? ... A fish with a strong immunity will "tolerate" and everything can cost, a fish with weak immunity will get sick and will need to be treated, the treatment will negatively affect the condition of the aquarium as a whole and complicate the life of the aquarist several times, well, and the fish without Immunity just a day, two "stick together flippers."
2. In the first month of the life of the aquarium, they try not to bother him! What does it mean? This means: you do not need to constantly climb into it, you do not need to do the cleaning, change the water, or siphon the aquarium floor! Yes Yes Yes!!! Exactly!!! It would seem that if we clean everything thoroughly, siphon and rub everything, then there will be no PJ, and therefore no problems! But, unfortunately, with these actions we only prevent useful microorganisms from developing.
For example, only in water, only a colony of beneficial bacteria has formed, only a favorable environment has been formed, and we have to change the water again and fill in fresh “empty” water! Or, for example, the bottom of an aquarium ... after all, in essence, this is a biological filter - “a house where 90% of our beneficial bacteria live” ... for the first, second week they just started to “occupy a new place”, and we siphon them suck out of the house !!!
Of course, the above is not a dogma, but as a general rule, it is recommended not to clean the aquarium (and all its equipment) during the first month. Thus, we give the opportunity to the aquarium, which is called "insist".
3. Since water is not sterile, sooner or later the aquarium will independently “fill” with invisible to the human eye organisms. Nevertheless, it is possible and even necessary to use aquarium hydrochemistry, which helps the aquarium to gain bio-balance. it Tera safestart and Tetra aquasafeand Tetra bactozymand Tetra NitratMinus, Tetra NitrateMinus Pearls, Sulfur nitrivek, zeolite and many, many other analogues, about which you can read the full information on the pages of our site. The essence of their action is simple:
- some preparations “ennoble water”, i.e. they make water suitable for habitat of aquatic organisms (AquaSafe) and contribute to their reproduction of beneficial bacteria (Bacozyme).
- others are ready concentrate, those most useful bacteria that fight poisons (Tetra SafeStart, Sera Nitrivek).
- either at a biological or chemical level, the concentration of poisons is reduced (Zeolite, Sulfur Toksivek, Tetra Nitrate Minus).
All these drugs can be used both individually and together. THE NOTE: In a pet shop or with friends of aquarists, you can ask for a squeeze from a filter that worked in a healthy aquarium. This squeeze - brown slurry contains a huge number of beneficial bacteria, i.e. essentially replaces starter drugs. You just need to pour it into your aquarium for three hours after squeezing.
FINDINGS:
1. It is important not only to install the aquarium correctly and connect everything, this is only half the battle.
2. It is necessary, as thoroughly as possible, to understand and understand that an aquarium is a complete organism, a closed corner of nature in your home, and not just a vessel with fish.
3. Aquarium is not a picture, set and forgotten. It requires attention, patience and perseverance. It is necessary to read, learn and try to improve your aquarium - this is the beauty of aquarism. You need to learn to see "aquarium by eye", you need to learn how to "feel it."
4. At the same time, you should always follow the golden rule - the aquarium does not like sudden movements. Everything needs to be done with the mind, gradually and not from the bay-floundering!
Below are links to forum branches, guys who have already launched an aquarium and have passed the test of the "first, aquarium month at FanFishka", from which you can additionally gather information:
Launch and arrangement of the aquarium of 132 liters - Forum
New one hundred liter aquarium, start from scratch. - Forum
Run a 200 liter aquarium with scalaris - Forum
Launching a new aquarium - Fish are dying - Forum
My first aquarium is 100 liters - Aquarium forum
Equipment and running aquarium 200 liters - Forum
My first aquarium is 180 liters, help with the launch - Forum
Launch of shrimp on 70 liters - Aquarists Forum

Below is a link to the material of our "forum bee" and moderator Yanina, in which she shares her impressions and experiences when launching her 600l. aquarium with goldfish.

STARTING A GREAT AQUARIUM
step-by-step example of arrangement of the aquarium world
And also, the curious story of our forum member Iren2321, about his impressions when launching the first aquarium

My first aquarium is a novice path

From admin: About ten months ago, Irene appeared on the site FanFishka.ru Iren2321 - a girl with a kind and sympathetic heart, dreaming with all her soul about her first aquarium ... It was communication with her that finally formed my opinion then that the key to success of any site is: kindness, love for everything you do and selfless help to your neighbor ...
Now, FF is a huge circle of friends, it is a lively, interesting communication, it is an exchange of experience and emotions, AND THIS MEANS THAT THE STRATEGY OF RESOURCE DEVELOPMENT IS TRUE!
The following article is a report of Irina, the result of the help of all members of the forum of FF set out in this forum thread - / forum / 4-243-1.

* * *
The last 5 years, one of my most cherished wishes was to acquire an aquarium! I really wanted to see - this is a “bubbling gurgling” miracle, with bright inhabitants and beautiful design inside. Sit in the kitchen, drink tea and admire ... And so! Dreams Come True! Thanks to the forum users of our beloved FF, I decided to purchase an aquarium. At once I will say that pleasure is not cheap, therefore, having a fairly limited budget, I tried to balance my “I want” and “I can” as much as possible.
The aquarium itself can be bought cheaply, but everything, even the most necessary, equipment and accessories "will fly into a pretty penny."
Choice Aquarium
The first thing that I pushed off when choosing the shape and size of the aquarium is the place where it will stand. Based on the recommendations of Feng Shui equipment, personal preferences and maximum efficiency of space use, the only place in our small apartment that was suitable for an aquarium was only the kitchen. It is quite large and spacious, moreover, there was a free space between two windows with a width of 70 cm.
In my opinion, quite a good option:
1. Kitchen - it is always convenient to maintain the aquarium.
2. The flow of the filter does not interfere with sleep (as a result, it turned out to be noiseless).
3. A great place to properly admire the aquarium - just opposite the dining table. The center of the aquarium is at eye level.
It turns out that you need an aquarium that would fit in the width between the windows, but was not too small to be in harmony with the interior of the kitchen.
The second thing I was thinking about for a very long time was how much I could properly equip the aquarium without having the slightest experience in aquarism.
After much deliberation, consultations with experienced aquarists, I stopped at an aquarium of an average volume of 100 liters. This is not much, but not enough. A larger aquarium will be of unacceptable size for me, and a smaller one will cause a lot of difficulties in setting up a biosystem.
The next question is the shape of the aquarium.
I liked the traditional rectangular shape of the aquarium and the lens (with a convex front glass). The decisive factor in determining the shape of the aquarium was the financial aspect. To save money, I decided to order the manufacture of an aquarium, so the choice fell on a rectangle. He glued him not a professional (as I understood later), but simply a man who had already pasted several aquariums and had succeeded.
The size of the aquarium is 70 * 35 * 40 cm, i.e. in fact, not even 100 liters, but 90 liters.
Yes, it came out cheaper than buying an aquarium in a store, but there are still some flaws. Stiffeners were glued at the top of the aquarium with a height of 7 cm, which visually and functionally reduced its height. Self-adhesive was glued poorly and during transportation scratches were made on the glass. All this, of course, made me very upset, but this is my FIRST aquarium !!!! After 3 months, no problems with the quality of glued seams have arisen, which means that everything is not so bad! :)
Installation of an aquarium For the time being, she adapted an old Soviet book table as a pedestal for the aquarium: they removed the castors and extendable supports, put pieces of linoleum under the legs, checked both sides of the table with a level. A piece of polystyrene 5 cm high was put under the aquarium (which house they found). Later disguised him with MDF sheets. Already 3 months is so aquarium, the table cover is not bent.
Preparing to start the aquarium Aquarium washed without diligence, i.e. without washing and cleaning, filled with water for a day to check the quality of the seams. All is well! Water leaked.
Lighting The issue of lighting dealt with my husband. He took out a Soviet lamp from the bins and glued it to the glass, the dimensions of which corresponded to the width of the aquarium, but less than its depth, so that there would be a gap for the wires and the possibility of feeding the fish. To the inside of the lamp pasted mirror as reflector. The luminaire has built-in 2 LD fluorescent lamps of 20 W each (which were also available).
Equipment While I was waiting for the aquarium, I ordered the most necessary equipment in the online store:
1. Internal filter, Aquael FAN 3 Plus.
2. Thermostat Xilong AT-700, 200 watts.
3. Timer Feron TM12 - timer daily electro-mechanical compact.
4. The background is two-sided.
The filter, in my humble experience of a novice aquarist, copes well with cleaning 100 liters of water.
The timer is a necessary thing, you can buy it at an electrical appliance store, it costs 5 cu very helpful. Set the lighting time and the light turns on and off when needed.
With gluing the background did not work out. The background was pasted together with her husband in a hurry, they hurried to launch the aquarium. Husband insisted glue on the soap, he just knew how to do it. Glued from the outside of the aquarium.
Result:
- the background never stuck.
- there were terrible soap patterns, which were perfectly visible in the foreground of the aquarium.
In the end, I watched this unpleasant picture for another month, and then spat - peeled off the background, rubbed the back wall dry and glued it on the sides with adhesive tape, temporarily. It became easier for me, even if the terrible white divorces are not visible.
Conclusion: you need to glue the background correctly and from inside the aquarium. See the article on FF - here.
The choice of soil and its preparation. Errors made. Soil I chose the black basalt fines. I needed 20 kg of soil for my volume of aquarium, which is, of course, right next to it, and a little more.
Soil I washed 3 times. Устала и решила, что будет достаточно. Ошиблась. После того, как залила воду в аквариум, поднялась страшная муть и осела на его стенки. Dirt had to tear off around the perimeter of the aquarium, which, in turn, settled on the equipment and plants. The spectacle is not pleasant!
!!!Грунт нужно промывать, пока вода не будет абсолютно чистой!!!
In addition, for good plant growth, you need to fill the top dressing layer in the ground. I did not do this, which I later regretted.
Decor Though I am a novice, I did not imagine artificial decorations in my aquarium. I dream of a chic herbalist, created by hand. Therefore, a beautiful snag, entwined with moss - the most it!
One snag, I ordered via the Internet, already ready for placement in the aquarium, and the second my husband and I decided to do it ourselves.
Since I was just delighted with somics (and later it turned out that all the other family members, too) chose a vine for this purpose. Her husband cleaned and brought me for further processing. I boiled a snag in a solution of salt for half a day, and after two days I soaked it in water.
Selection and planting plants For me, an aquarium without live plants is not an aquarium, so I read information about plants for beginners, which were not particularly demanding in terms of water parameters and lighting, I had seen photos and descriptions of aqua design and acquired the following plants:
1.Parthorn Thailand - 2pcs.
2. Cryptocoryne (I don’t know which one) - 10 pcs. (I don’t remember exactly).
3. Moh javanese - 1 sp. Box (attached to the snag)
4. Anubias -nana - 3 pcs. (attached to snags)
5. Indian Indian brackerel - 2 pcs. (while floating on the surface)
6. Limnobium - 5pcs.
7.Pissures - 3pcs.
I filled the soil in the aquarium, as it should be - to the back wall the ground level is higher than in the foreground (to enhance the effect of the depth and volume of the aquarium). Filled the aquarium up to half defended water, with the addition of Tetra AquaSafe. She weaved a snag with a fishing line, securing Yavan moss on it and planted the plants. Completely filled the aquarium with water.
A week later, I became the happy owner of a whole bucket of plants that our beloved admin Oleg sent me.
There were the following plants:
1. Cryptocoryne - 8 pcs.
2. Vallisneria - a lot.
3. Echinodorius - 1 pc.
4. Ludwig red.
All gladly landed.

Basic aquarium accessories After the launch of the aquarium in the next few days in the store of my city, I bought the following accessories for the aquarium, without which one can not do:
1. Thermometer - JERO sticker (the most expensive one that was in the store).
2. Net.
3. Siphon.
4. Magnetic brush.
The only thing I am pleased with is a net, but, strictly speaking, there are no serious technical requirements for it.
Due to my inexperience, I did the stupid thermometer - I stuck it inside the aquarium, not outside. I learned about that much later after I threw such an expensive purchase in my product category into the urn. Placed in the water, he showed it is not clear that, one could only guess, at the same time several temperature indicators were glowing at once. Behind him was going to the dirt, which terribly annoyed me. As a result, I peeled it off, but he did not stick back ... threw it out. At the moment there is no thermometer in the aquarium. I repent, I forget to buy, I hope for the excellent work of the thermostat.
Siphon bought the only one that was in the store - the cheapest for 35 UAH., There was no choice. I am not happy with it. I plan to buy this:
From the magnetic brush, I was at first simply delighted with a calf. After she quickly cleaned all the dirt that had accumulated from the start of the aquarium, I considered it one of the most successful inventions of mankind. Then I noticed that all this mud settled on plants, soil and decor. This sight resembled the terrain near a metallurgical plant. Fortunately, the filter did not let us down and in a few days cleared everything up. After a while, I made this brush scratches on the inside of the glass. If even the slightest little cave, even the most imperceptible will fall between the teeth of the brush - all terrible scratches on the glass are inevitable. And to my utter disillusionment with this device, I noticed that as it was used, its cleansing abilities fade away. As a conclusion, you need to look for an alternative to it.
Aquarium dwellers The following inhabitants live in my aquarium:
1) Som Antsitrus - the very first resident, settled on the launch day, despite all the prohibitions and warnings. Moved great! My little son's favorite fish!
2) Angelfish - the main in the aquarium, periodically chasing everyone, fish with character.
3) Swordsmen - 5 pcs.
4) Algae - just a wonderful fish, bringing a lot of benefits to the aquarium.
5) Apistogram ramiresi - a beautiful and unusual little innocent Tsykhlida.
6) Chery shrimps - I don’t know exactly how many pieces there are at the moment, because they are rarely even seen one by one. There is a fear that the scalar is hunting for shrimp.
7) Ampularia - 2 pcs., Got into my tank in a very neglected state - the greenest! Their husband brought from the kindergarten aquarium where he works. I'm even afraid to imagine what kind of water there is! A month later, both snails are almost completely pretty orange!
There were 2 Gorami - Honey and Marble. Marble did not grow at all and died before my eyes, and Medovaya lived for a long time behind the filter, her other aquarium inhabitants somehow didn’t complain much, and then suddenly and completely disappeared (she didn’t know that this was the case).


Difficulties after starting the aquarium During the first two days after the launch of the aquarium, a part of the floating plants turned yellow and Cryptocorynes began to actively stratify. I did not place any fertilizer for plants in the aquarium, so I immediately ran to the store and bought Aqua Bio Start and PlantaMin. The first, opening 1 capsule, I sprinkled into the water, and the second poured as indicated in the instructions 5 ml per 100 liters.
I do not know how effective these actions were, but a month later half of Kryptocoryn died (apparently, they started Kryptocorynous disease).
Today, 3.5 months after the launch of the aquarium, the state of the plants is as follows:
- Cryptocoryne narrow-leaved hilinkie and especially do not multiply.
- Piste disappeared, apparently Limnobium squeezed it out.
- Thai fern on the last breath.
- There are almost no red plants.
- Javanese moss is hardly holding on.
- Indian fern breeds and grows.
- Growing Limnobium.
“Slowly but surely Anubia Nano is growing.”
Aquarium care problems. My observations.
The problem of lighting and alga Blackbeard
The worst news in the second month, after the launch of my aquarium, was the appearance of one of the nastiest algae - Black beard. After reading the recommendations on FF and other resources, I took action. After 2 weeks, only short, whitish hairs remained from the terrible long hairs of the Blackbeard, barely visible on a couple of plants. I hope there will be no relapse. I analyzed and realized my mistakes, I mean the reasons for the appearance of such an unpleasant aquarium guest.
As I guess, as a result of poor lighting, the plants in my tank felt bad. Therefore, 2.5 months after launch, I replaced one ordinary one with a special Sval Aquastar F18W / T8 / G13 special aqualamp. At first, for joy, I left the lighting for 10 hours with a break of 2 hours. After 3 days, all plants turned brown - reduced daylight hours to 6 hours. Honestly, I did not see any positive changes. The plant grows poorly (in my opinion it is even worse than before), the red ones did not turn red, and besides, the pleasure of observing the aquarium is much less, because the illumination is only 6 hours. What to do? I don't know yet. But, I will definitely follow the instructions of this article. Aquarium lighting and choice of lamps.

Pleasant surprises and impressions from the new hobby
At the end of the second month of my aquarium life, my husband and I made an installation for supplying CO2, using the instruction. The result is very pleased - the plants are significantly accelerated in growth.

For a long time I did not dare to acquire an aquarium, not only due to financial reasons, but also as a result of doubts: “Can I?”, “Do I have enough time for that, because I have a small child?”, “Is it enough patience? "... I could! Enough of everything! Care of the aquarium takes a little time. I have about 1 hour a week. Of course, it is possible to replace water faster and siphon a primer, but I get tremendous pleasure when picking up plants, replanting them, so I do everything slowly. At the same time, I do the cleaning of the aquarium not when the child sleeps, but with it. He likes to click on the siphon's pump so that some water begins to flow, sit and wash his hands in a bucket or touch the remains of plants. Time can always be found. After all, it’s still better to care for the fish with your child than to sit in front of the TV.
Sometimes the aquarium helps me a lot when I need to distract my son for a while, I start asking: “Where's the catfish?”, “Show me a new fish that we bought yesterday?”, “What do snails now do?”. The child instantly runs to the aquarium and can get stuck near it even for a few minutes! And for a young mother with a huge pile of cases every minute counts!
My child is not yet two years old, until she speaks, but she is perfectly distinguished by the names of the fish - what is not developing a lesson with a baby?
The aquarium fell in love with our whole family, even the husband who bukhtel, that it is expensive, where to put it, when you take care of it, that you fall into childhood, sometimes it puts a chair in the aquarium and sits watching television.
The aquarium has become part of the life of our entire family! I would like to thank Oleg once again - adminaff and all concerned forum members who gave me the opportunity to enter such a mysterious and magical world of aquarism!

Help Urgent What is needed for an aquarium; List and order of prices

Mr. Tetra

For an aquarium, at a minimum, an aquarium is necessary, preferably with a lid, preferably not less than 50 liters, a filter (an internal one, for example aquael, is suitable for a start) - ask the seller to explain to you how the filter works, show how the built-in aerator works
If you are warm in winter (ca. +20), then a heating pad (thermostat) is not needed, if it is cold - you will also have to purchase it.
Still need a primer, better natural (not painted - it gradually allocates the paint in the water, but it is not good) Soil should be at the rate of at least 2-3 cm to the bottom.
Then come the scenery - choose the taste and color for yourself, the only thing is that it is better to live plants, not plastic ones.
And the little things - a thermometer, a net.
The most important thing is that you don’t want to buy fish with the aquarium right away, first start the aquarium and only then (not earlier than 5 days later) buy fish, and then not all of them at once, but little by little, two or three fishes.
And yes! Go to specialized sites on aquarism and read everything thoroughly, especially about launching a new aquasa, otherwise you might succeed like most - and why I have dirty water, fish die and how to fix it

Efa efa

An aquarium is not a piece of furniture. Instead of a list and order prices, for a start, you need to read the relevant literature. Start with "Aquarium for beginners." When you start to imagine what and how it should be, the question will disappear by itself.

Lidija

I recently bought a Polish aquarium of 102 liters with lighting, a filter and heater and a bedside table at a cost of 12 thousand. 250 rubles. plus soil 750 rubles. plus nutrient primer and water supplements for another 1 thousand rubles. I will soon go for plants, etc.

Vadim74

An aquarium of at least 100 liters because of moderate appetites and you will have large)))))) Heater with a thermostat, pump filter at 4-6 volume per hour, compressor, soil, thermometer, interior decor: artificial or natural grottoes, volumetric background or a simple film, a magnetic scraper, a siphon for cleaning aquas; an aqua cap and plastic is desirable; lamps are desirable for lighting just for aquarium lighting with a specific spectrum! You can also stock up on water tests are especially useful on nitrite nitrates acidity alkalinity softness and hardness of this very water in aqua! Sachek preferably not quite small! And the rest as the operation and solidarity with Tetra fish in the last turn after the full launch of aqua and this is about a week or two after pouring water !!!

Yury Balashov

0. Aquarium, for example, 50 liters -500 rubles.
1. a filter that filters the water in the aquarium, where all the dirt is collected in the lower compartment in the sponge, which, as it is contaminated, is washed in the aquarium water in order not to wash off those bacteria that form in the pores of the sponge; from 250-300 to 500-700 rubles
2.Avariant heater with temperature control, at the top of it is the temperature scale, which must be set by the regulator, the average temperature in the aquarium is about + 24 *, it is not hot cold-loving and not cold heat-loving; from 500 to 700 rubles
3. A micro-compressor, which pushes air through the tube to the sprayer with a membrane; 150-250 rubles
4. chambered sprays, which spray the air pumped from the compressor (the smaller the bubbles, the better the enrichment of the aquarium water with air, the easier it is for the fish to breathe); rubles 20-30
5. chemical thermometer, pasted on the glass (it is beautiful, but better than alcohol); 50-100 rubles
6. luminescent lamps attached to the lamp, which is worn on top of the aquarium; the light turns on for 8-10-12-14-16 hours, depending on the plants, etc. (cover with lamps about 1000 rubles)
General, prices are not Moscow.

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